• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.3
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• pp.63-70
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate trend of articles on men's fashion in Korea as seen through clothing-related academic journals from 1990 to 2009. For a total of 478 research papers on men's fashion published in 18 clothing-specialized learned society journals, which are KCI-cited journals or candidates thereof The results were as follows: First, With respect to the number of papers on men's fashion from 1990 to 2009, that of the 2000s rapidly increased to 5.2 times that of the 1990s. Second, The number of each area research was ranked aw follows: social psychology marketing 34.1%(163), clothing construction 32.2%(154), design aesthetics 19.7%(94), beauty 7.7%(37), history of clothing 4.8%(23), textile science 1.5%(7.7). Third, Studies on the aesthetics in men's fashion showed a steady increase from 1995, resulting in the number of papers in the 2000s being 12 times that of the 1990s. And, in the 2000s, the subjects explored in the 1990s, such as feminization of men's clothes, gender images, men's suit, etc. were deepened and expanded.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.5
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• pp.122-132
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• 2016

In today's society, being considered ecological in fashion design and having a cultural and humanistic approach is important. Using a technological approach, the fold concept was applied to understand and analyze the ecological characteristics of a modern fashion aesthetic design. The concept of 'Ecological Aesthetic Design', which we discuss in this study, is part of human nature, and the design concept is used to consider the relationship between the man and the environment to the design of Victor Papanek. From the perspective of interrelation between the components of an ecosystem, the possibility of the fold's application to ecological aesthetic design can be summarized by wholeness, biodiversity, evolution, homeostasis, and circularity. The concept of the fold is revealed mainly through three types of characteristics: indeterminate complexity, potential continuity, and decentralized interaction relationship. Based on the characteristics of the concept presented earlier, this study conducted a case review by distinguishing contemporary fashion that applied the complex, various, and indeterminate fold concepts into flexible transformation, continuity, and complementary circularity. This study was interpreted from the ecological aesthetic point of view based on the nature of the contingent folds presented before applying modern fashion concepts. It focused on the morphological side, and excluded the material aspects of the case study in order to examine the complex, diverse and content aspects. The result of the study is as follows. The study of the research areas that help the understanding of the changing fashion phenomenonneeds to be encouraged, and there should be a new research category, which can contribute to the ecological aesthetic design concept conversion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.8
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• pp.125-135
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• 2015

This study is a theoretical research based on previous domestic and international researches. The case study proceeded by collecting images from periodicals such as International Men's magazine GQ, First of all website(www.style.com) and Vogue website(www.vogue.com) were viewed. The images were selected had shapes, colors, and motives with Japanese aesthetic traits from Comme des Garçons' men's Collections of 2011 F/W to 2016 S/S. The purpose of this study is to find out the possible sources of forms and expressive methods of future fashion through Japanese traditional aesthetics of Rai Kawakubo's fashion world. Designers are expected to continue on using traditional aesthetic beauties of other countries as sources of modern fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.579-594
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• 2014

The areas of fashion research and fashion design aesthetics & fashion history have been studied under a common research heading as a Humanities subject in the UK and the USA, and as Clothing and Textiles Studies in Korea. The purpose of this paper was to analyze the 2004~2013 research tendencies in terms of reporting methods and contents from 181 world-renowned Fashion Theory research papers within the UK and USA fashion research corpus, and 359 Korean research papers from The Research Journal of Costume Culture related to fashion design aesthetics & costume history field. The subject areas, periods, methodologies, and differences in the topics of the studies were examined. The results of the research are as follows. Regarding the research authorship and length of the research papers, in Fashion Theory most papers were written by a single English-speaking or other foreign language-speaking author and were on average longer than 21 pages, while in The Research Journal of Costume Culture, many papers were jointly written by two Korean researchers and were between 11 and 20 pages. Regarding the content, Fashion Theory was connected to relatively wide and diverse periodical and regional boundaries including the body, clothing, the fashion media, and the overall fashion system, while The Research Journal of Costume Culture revolved around the body and clothing, textiles, the fashion media, and costumes. In addition, since the late $20^{th}$ century, the studies appeared to be related to the current Western world overall or to the country of the author. Regarding the research methodology, Fashion Theory used diverse research subjects and methodologies, and research was conducted on topics relating to fashion culture or fashion aesthetics. On the other hand, The Research Journal of Costume Culture featured relatively more dynamic studies aimed at suggesting developments or solutions to problems. It was found that a large share of that research focused on detailed style analyses and suggestions for aspects such as design elements and design developments. Such differences are considered to be caused by the inherent differences between the academic departments for the Humanities, and the Human Ecology. The above research results are expected to provide fundamental information in setting a direction for future research to assist the globalization of domestic research.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.1
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• pp.159-173
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• 2002

The subject of the paper is for the study about the implication and the changes of design and functions in the underwear by the change of the times from late 19c until present time. Researching on documents and magazine's articles, and interviewing with women older than 60s is used for the period of previous 1960s. researching on documents, advertising, newspaper, and interviewing with the persons concerned is used for the period of after 1960s. Analysis showed periodical change in underwear is divided into that the changes of the time is divided into 1890-1950 start to Westernization in underwear, 1957-1969 Ready made in underwear. 1950-1969 Variety in underwear, 1980-1989 Fashioning, functioning in underwear, 1990-present Withdrawing from fundamental notion in underwear. The time of 1890-l950 showed the biggest change in an external form in underwear. In 1950-1969, notions of beauty in underwear ultimately swatch from Oriental sense to Western sense, In 70s, underwear achieved the early stage of fashioning. In 80s, Underwear became one of fashion item. In 90s, underwear achieved higher quality and variety. The basic notion of underwear was destroyed by exposing underwear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.5
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• pp.769-785
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• 2018

This study focused on similarities between modern philosophical Nomadism and the thoughts of Korean people as well as analyzed the correlation between modern Nomad fashion and Korean traditional costumes. This study aims are as follows. First, to establish aesthetic characteristics by examining modern Nomadism and Korean thoughts. Second, draw the principles of design expressions of modern Nomad fashion and Korean traditional costumes. Third, analyze correlations between them. The method of this study was a literature review and an analysis of related photos. The study results are as follows. First, Nomadic aesthetics are characterized by the formation of complex diversity with the variability of fusion and separation through liquidity in an ambiguous boundary; in addition, various possibilities and harmony are the characteristics of Korean aesthetics, held by a holistic thought based on the vision of the universe of Qi (氣). Second, Nomad fashion appeared as variable designs through repetition and the overlapping of forms, and irregular designs were noticed through repetition and the overlapping of circles, quadrangles, and angles in Korean traditional costumes. Third, similarities in the creation of liquidity, variability, and de-territoriality based on modules can be found; in addition, common principles can also be drawn from the appearing design expressions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.48-63
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• 2017

When digital media and images are combined, their significant sociocultural impacts can be exercised. Therefore, this study analyzes digital images shown in such trends of digital media compared to the digital fashion from an aesthetic perspective. Research and empirical studies are focused upon to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of digital fashion. Digital Fashion comprehensively refers to fashion design using computers and software, and is considered as "Fashion Design utilizing Digital Technologies" including computer software and hardware perspectives, so that it may be renamed "Digital Fashion." The esthetic characteristics shown in the Digital Fashion defined above are analyzed according to how media philosophers conceptualize the digital image. First, from the perspective of creation, Digital Fashion Images are technical images produced by computers. Uncanny characteristics expressed through virtual images look more realistic than the actual ones used in experimental works of fashion designers. Such virtuality dynamically expresses various colors and fabric patterns through lights using digital technologies that do not yet exist in cloth form, rather in a non-material form of dynamic virtual imagery. Digital fashion images on monitors express digital fashion designs by shaping virtual images through 3D printing. Second, Digital Fashion Images from the perspective of acceptance are created through deconstruction, while fashion has only been previous viewed visually, Digital Fashion delivers immersions of visual touches as if directly experienced for accepters. Digital Fashion will continuously develop and become more influential as it converges with digital media.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.123-142
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• 1998

본 논문에서 패션 디자인(fashion design)을 평가하는데 있어서 새로운 방법론적 접근 방식을 제시해 보려하였다. 즉 패션 디자이너의 디자인에 대한 철학을 이해함으로서 패션에 대한 근복적인 면에 대해 보다 나은 이해를 갖도록 하는 접근 방식을 모색하려는 것이다. 본 논문의 분석대상은 디자이너 루디 건라이(Rudi Gernreich : 1922-1985)와 그의 작품들인데, 그의 작품들에 나타나는 급진적인 성향 뒤에 숨어 있는 그의 디자인 철학을 집중적으로 분석함으로써 작품과 철학의 상관관계를 조명하려는 것이 그 주된 목적이다. 기존의 그에 대한 평가는‘파격적 패션’,‘소설 스테이트먼트(Social Statement)’,또는‘시각적 창출’등의 표현으로 극히 피상적인 것이었다. 반면에 그가 어떠한 경로로 이러한 디자인을 구상하게 되었는지 또는 그가 현대의상에 얼마만큼의 영향을 미쳤는지에 대한 연구는 극히 소수에 불과하였다. 본 논문의 초점은 건라이의 패션 디자인을 그가 중요한 가치로 믿고 있었던‘개인적 자유에 대한 추구’의 반영으로써 재 평가해 보려는 것이다. 이것의 입증을 위해서 그의 디자인들을 역사적, 사회적 그리고 미학적인 관점에서 분석하였다. 먼저 그의 디자인 철학을 도출하기 위해 그의 개인적 배경에 대한 상세한 검토를 하였고, 그의 디자인과 관련된 자료와, 현존하는 작품들과 그에 따른 참고문헌들에 대한 분석 조사 작업을 하였다. 이 작업을 통해 필자는 건라이의 작품들을 세 개의 주된 주제들, 즉,‘부분적 누디즘(Partial Nudism)’,‘유니섹스 모드(Unisexs Mode)’, 그리고‘옵 아트 패션(Op-art Fashion)’으로 구분하였다.‘부분적 누디즘(Partial Nudism)’과‘유니섹스 모드(Unisex Mode)’는 60년대 중반에서 70ssu대 초반에 출현한 유스 컬츄어(Youth Culture)에 부합하는 그이 디자인의 반영으로써 성의 혁명, 여성 인권운동과 동성애자 인권 운동과 같은 사회이슈들과 그의 디자인이 갖는 상관관계를 보여주는 것이다.‘옵-아트 패션(Op-art fashion)’은 건라이 디자인의 미학적 요소에 초점을 맞추고 있다. 그의 작품에 나타나는 인체와 옵-아트 원리의 관계를 조명해 보고, 건라이가 옵-아트와의 연계하에 그의 디자인을 어느만큼 예술적으로 승화시켰는지를 보여주고 있다. 각 주체들은 건라이 작품들의 개별적인 분석을 통해 논하였다. 본 논문은 보다 넓은 관점에서의 건라이의 디자인에 대한 재 평가로 결론을 지었다. 이러한 재평가 작업을 통해 패션 디자인계에 미친 그의 공헌의 역사적 중요성을 강조하고 현대 패션에 그의 영향이 계속 미치고 있는 이유를 설명하려 하였다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.3
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• pp.26-43
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• 2010

The inflow of digital technology into the art, especially in the Fashion Illustration since 1990, makes the new aesthetics of the beginning of the 21 century which the Software aesthetics can be called. The meeting of technology and the art make us recall a great scientist and artist, Leonardo da Vinci in the Renaissance that the notion of the art and skill was unified, same as the ancient history. This study is purposed to expand the concept of the art for the broad exchange of the digital technology and art and for the extensive expression method of the modern fashion illustration. Having views on science theory of the beginning of the 20 century, Theory of Relativity which had given a lot of influence in the philosophy, the litterature and the art, as well as all the science, it makes a connection with the history of art in the beginning of the 20 century and the story of the digital art in the beginning of the 21 century. Firstly, the Fauvism and 2D is based on the expression of the glowing and bright color by the Principle of constancy of light velocity. Secondly, the Cubism and 3D is associated with the Special theory of relativity in the cyberspace which the space and the time are totally accorded. Thirdly, the Futurism and 4D is compared with the General theory of relativity which contains the material and the gravity. They are gradually evolved into the Interactive art and the Kinetic art by the digital technology in the profound cyberspace.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.294-309
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• 2015

This study aims to clarify the aesthetic values between emotion of human and expression of technology in contemporary fashion as it analyzes formative characteristics of related cases in fashion based on principles of 3D Printing technology and the viewpoint of mechanic aesthetics. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, 3D Printing fashion is not only expressed diverse variations by its principles of formative methods, materials and properties, but also changes of silhouette by applying system of designers. Second, general characteristics of 3D Printing fashion is represented by various applications in SLS system, and it can be specifically explained application to a portion of clothing, decorative roles of clothing, complicated pattern making through crossing fabrics using 3D scanner and displaying a certain object changing fashion styles, and so forth. Third, the formative characteristics of 3D Printing fashion from the perspective of mechanic aesthetics is as follows. It can be analyzed as the integration of metaphysical values through compared symbolization of natural feature and technical evolution, partial dynamics and interactive velocity-based, formative combinations for abstract expression using architectural components, cosmos images and substantialized structures through images of organic space interacted human shapes. As the mention above, 3D Printing technology can creative a diverse area of fashion, and express images of new technological fashion through various works with continuous development of techniques.