• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.5-29
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• 2002

This study was to analyze the social identity described in the dress of the American novelist Pearl S. Buck's (1892-1973) major works. A novelist pursues varying and refined expressions in an effort to convey to readers the character' identities of his or her own creation. In particular, Pearl S, Buck was a great writer who was awarded the Novel Literature Prize, and since her work The Good Earth recorded a world-wide bestseller, she might well be called a popular novelist. She depicted well her characters' identities from divers viewpoints with her unique delicacy and realistic expressions. For this study, the following seven works which are considered to feature the dresses for character's identity well were selected out of her 85 works: The Good Earth (1931), Sons(1932), The Mother (1934), A Housed Divided (1935), The Hidden Flower (1952), Love and the Morning Calm (1953) and Letter from Peking (1957). For an analytical tool, the content analysis method was used. In order to systematically review the social identity described in the dress individuals' identity were classified into the following categories based on the identity theories: Social identity were divided into ① age identity ② sex, gender identity ③ economic identity ④ occupational identity ⑤ political identity ⑥ religious identity ⑦ kinship identity ⑧ regional identity. The characters' age identity, sex, gender identity, economic identity, occupational identity, political identity, religious identity, kinship identity, regional identity were depicted by their dresses and physical features. All in all, it is hoped that this study would provided important cues to the understanding of the other party's identity through his or her dresses in mutual relationship: It is believed that this study would be useful because they are arranged through the analysis of the dresses featured in the great writer's works using a consistent framework of analysis.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.53-62
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• 2009

Through the result of the investigation on costumes in Bulgarian regions, the main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume and its kinds and history have been found out so far as follows. Alhtough varying according to the district and climate, Bulgarian folk costumes have some general features determined by the material, the pattern, the application. For women, Bulgarian costume consists of a white shirt, a single or double apron unique depending on each region(Bruchnick), a basic dress called a tunic (Soukman), and an open-tunic typed coat (saya). The main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume have been under the influence of natural and environmental features and historical streams resulting from its geographical location. Bulgaria is agriculture-oriented society based on a continental climate. Accordingly, as for the classification of costumes, body-fit clothes, such as shirts and jackets which developed in Europe and fit the body shape, have featured in Bulgaria. Besides, Bulgaria was under the rule of Turk for a long time at the end of the Middle Age. Having been influenced a lot those days, its folk costume shows Turkish elements now. With geographical features, it was found that the southern area was influenced most by Turkey and Greece, and the types of folk costumes in Europe developed mainly from the northern area. The adaptation of traditional costume forms to the new cultural and progressive principles of appeal nowadays needs knowledge, as well as feeling. Finding the right measure and proportions of using old ethnic elemints in contemporary clothing is the prerequisite of successful design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.139-153
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to consider the kinds and features of costume and fabrics of the early Koryo period which are mentioned in the records of costume system, royal presents and diplomatic articles at that time ranging from the reigns of king Gwangjong to king Gyeongjong and to king Seongjong. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. In the 11th year of king Gwangjong's reign, the official costume system was established, which reflected the royal will to independence as an imperial nation. That system also became the basis of the official wage system in king Gyeongjong's reign. In the reigns of king Gwangjong and king Gyeongjong, the monarch granted official uniforms to persons who passed the state examination, directly connecting with new bureaucrats and strengthening the royal authority. Those uniforms were usually worn at a banquet where the monarch and subjects participate together in the early Koryo period. In the reign of king Seongjong, costume and fabrics were positive means of realizing political Confucianism as they were used for bureaucrats who advanced to official position through the state examination. Records issued at that time explain that the monarch presented costume and fabrics in an effort to getting along with officials and civilians of different classes as the state and the royal authority stabilized. Found in the records released in the reigns of king Gwangjong to king Seongjong, the kinds of costume or fabrics at that time include jikseongeuio, gap, yongeui, seupeui, gyegeum baekcheop, geumeunseon gyegeumpoyok and po. The techniques of manufacturing armors in the early Koryo period were probably advanced since the item was a craftwork presented to the court in the reigns of kings Gwangjong and Gyeongjong. Presumedly, baekcheop was a kind of hemp and po. Koryo's native hemp cloth.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.98-109
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to present the case of class operation by paralleling a general instructor's lecture class and a IC-PBL class in a fashion design major course and comparing the educational effects. The teaching model of this study was designed to improve the ability to use the knowledge gained in accordance with the needs of the industrial field and to develop an independent learning ability. It will provide meaningful data. This study measured and considered the qualitative items of self-efficacy and changes in class perception through interviews and questionnaires completed by the learners after experiencing each general class and IC-PBL class. The results of this study are, first, that in the History of Fashion and Costume class, the general teaching method and the IC-PBL teaching method were applied in parallel to design a class, and a method case was presented. Second, as a result of comparing the educational effects of the two teaching methods through a student questionnaire, IC-PBL was more effective in improving learning attitude, learning achievement and self-efficacy. In addition, after the IC-PBL class on History of Fashion and Costume, the students' negative perception of team activities improved, and the students' cooperative ability and creativity improved.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.395-413
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• 1994

Costume is mirror of diverse life styles and attitudes in human life. It has a meaning beyond "clothing" . Fashion illlustration is to express these costumes with a picture. So, it can be said that it is a ′mirror of costumes′ in historical side. The purpose of this study is to find the meaning of fashion illustration of 17th century, which called its first one and to look into its characteristics and costumes of 17th century respotlighting fashion illustrators and painters related with fashion illustration in those days. This study is based on Western Europe by literatures. The fashion illustration in 17th century designed by painters and fashion illustrators. They are Wenceslaus Hollar, Abraham Bosse, Jacques Callot, Jean de st Jean, N. Bonar, A. Trouvain, A. Arnoult in France and so on. The characteristics of fashion illustration in 17th century are as follows : 1. There was a quickening of modern civil consciousness in 17th century. As the subject of costume culture moved from noble class to the working class which began to have a free, the fashion illustration changed to the direction of informing their social class and job. 2. The fashion illustrations of 17th century showed storng realism which was a base of modern picture. 3. The most of them showed costume plates. It was not to transmit adding intended forecast but to describe sincerely in costumes′ record. However, the fashion illustration since the middle of 17th century was designed considering fashion. 4. It could be said that the fashion illustration of 17th century was the forest one of today. It was expressed by Wenceslaus Hollar′s ones. And it is found in his suggestion of popular costumes before and behind and delicate description like accessories. 5. They were transmitted by fashion magazines internationally. Le Mercure Galant, which printed mode plates in 1678, was the first modern fashion magazine aiming at general readers. The fashion illustration of 17th century can divide into ones for court, for working classes, costume plates. The fashion illustrations for court designed by court painters. There were court costumes of early time, spanish Mode and of lately time, French Court Culture. They had baroque elements with a bunddle of ribbons and race decoration. On the other hand, the fashion iooustrations for working class were under the influence on Netherlands styles. They were designed for the purpose of god function and much use. That′s why was under the influence of puritanical life creed. In this situation, the costume plates directed the fashion in those days. At that time, they were supplied widely and it amy be an attempt of popularization. The fashion illustrations of 17th century appeared that they had transmissible character and artistics expression. On the basis of them, we can look into the fashion illustrations of today.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.04a
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• pp.46-47
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• 2001

본 연구의 목적은 청년기 여성의 국내 및 외국 의 류상표선태과 가정의 가치지향성 및 물리적 가정환 경과의 관계를 조사하며. 상표선택에 따른 상표결정 동기의 차이를 파악하고 의복구매 후 만족도에 영향을 주는 특성을 조사하는 데 있다. 연구방법은 질문지법을 사용하였으며, 조사대상은 서울시내 여고생과 여자대학생 408명이었다(여고생 224명, 여대생 184명). 가정환경변인 측정도구는 정원식의 '가정환경진단검사'중에서 가정의 가치지향 성을 사용하였으며. 사회상승주의, 물질주의, 전통주 의에 관한 내용을 포함하였다. 상표선택은 최근에 구 입한 캐주얼웨어의 상표에 대한 내용과 구입희망 상 표를 조사하였으며, 상표결정동기는 5점 척도의 10 문항을 사용하였다. 가정의 물리적 환경은 부모의 학력, 사회계층, 주거공간을 조사하였으며, 인구통계적인 변인으로 학년, 연령, 용돈을 조사하였다. 조사기 간은 2000년 4월이었다. 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 여고생 및 여대생이 구입한 의류상표는 국 내상표가 24.0%. 외국 상표가 37.5%. 상표명을 기억 하지 않는 상표무관심 집단이 38.5%였다. 구입희망 상표는 외국상표가 48.8%. 국내상표가 26.0%. 무관 심집단이 25.2%로서 구입한 상표보다 구입희망상표 의 경우 외국상표가 더 높은 비율을 나타냈다. 둘째, 가정의 가치지향성은 국내 및 외국의류상표 구입집단에 따라 유의한 차이가 없었다. 그러나 가정 의 가치지향성 중에서 사회상승주의는 구입희망 집 단에 따라 유의한 차이가 있어, 외국상표 구입희망 집단은 가정의 사회상승주의가 높았고, 상표무관심 집단은 사회상승주의가 낮았다. 따라서 사회적 지위 상승을 추구하는 가치관을 지닌 가정의 청소년들은 부모의 가치관에 영향을 받아 외국상표 의류를 희망 하여 의복을 통해 신분상승을 추구하려는 정도가 높은 것으로 해석된다. 셋째, 국내 및 외국 의류상표 구입집단운 부모의 학력, 가정의 사회계층 및 주거공간과 유의 한 관계가 있었다. 아버지와 어머니의 학력이 대졸 이상의 경우 는 외국상표를 더 많이 구입하였고, 부모띄 학력이 고졸인 청소년은 상표 무관심집단이 많았다. 또 상류 층은 외국상표 및 국내상표를 구매한 비율씨 비슷하 게 높았으나 하류층은 상표 무관심집단이 더 많은 편이었다. 구입회망상표와 사회계층 및 주거공간과 는 유의한 관계가 없었다. 따라서 청년기 여성은 가정의 사회계층과 관계없이 외국상표의 구입을 희망 하는 정도가 높다고 할 수 있다. 넷째, 외국상표 구입 집단은 국내상표 구입 집단 보다 상표를 미리 결정하는 경우가 더 많았고. 백화 점에서 구입하는 정도가 더 높았다. 또한 여대생은 의류상표선택과 용돈이 유의한 관계가 없었으나 여고생은 유의한 관계가 있었다. 다섯째. 외국상표 구입집단은 국내상표 구입집단 보다 주위 사람의 상표와 상표의 명성이 더 높은 구입동기로 작용하였으나. 품질, 유행, 할인가, 디자인, 가격, 착용감은 유의한 차이가 없었다. 여섯째, 상표결정동기 중 할인가 구매는 가정의 사회상승주의 및 물질지향주의와 유의한 정적 관계 가 있었고, 적절한 가격도 물질지향주의와 정적 관계 를 나타냈다. 가정의 전통주의는 의복의 디자인과 부 정적인 관계, 상점의 위치와는 정적관계가 있었다. 따라서 전통주의적인 가치관을 지닌 가정의 자녀는 편리한 상점의 위치가 상표결정동기로 작용하는 데 영향을 주는 특성임을 알 수 있다. 일곱째, 의복만족에 동시에 영향을 주는 요인은 디자인, 면안성, 타인의 착용( - ). 상표의 명성, 외국 상표선택, 의복품질로 나타났으며. 6개 변인을 통한 설명력은 24.4%였다. 즉 상표를 결정할 때 디자인, 편안성, 상표의 명성, 의복품질을 고려하며. 주위사람들이 착용한 상표를 고려하지 않을수록 만족도가 높았으며, 외국상표를 선택한 집단일수록 만족도가 높았다. 종합적으로 볼 때 가정의 사회상승주의가 높은 청년기 여성은 외국상표 구입을 희망하는 비율이 높고 부모의 사회경제적 지위가 높을수록 외국상표 구입 빈도가 높았으며. 외국상표를 구입한 여성은 의복구 매 후 만족도가 높았다. 또한 청소년들이 외국 의류 상표를 구매하는 데에는 상표의 명성과 타인의 옷차 림이 영향을 주었으나, 타인의 착용에 영향을 받는 정도가 높을수록 의복 구매 후 만족도는 낮아진다고 할 수 있다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.161-167
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• 2006

The purpose of this research are to identify the nature of artistic beauty of Kokuryeo dresses and to apply the artistic beauty, formative uniqueness, and esthetic value of Kokuryeo in the modern Korean dress design for creation of new designs. Significance of this research lies in the fact that beauty of traditional dresses possesses highly valuable importance for application to modern fashion design processes. Kokuryeo dresses basically comprised of Yu, Sang, Go and Po, and contains within abstract beauty along with emphasis on geometric elements like dots, lines, and surfaces. Red, Black, Violet, Verdant and scarlet colors were moderately used against the mainly white canvas, and different colors were often used for the top and the bottom. Silk, Hemp cloth and Wool were used for different social levels or ranks, and from the wide variety of colors and patterns of the dresses, such as Round-patterns, Cloud-patterns and Vine-patterns, worn by the people illustrated on the wall paintings, it appears that various materials were used. Vertical hems, Yu (shirts), Sang (skirts), noblemen's dresses, kings' dresses, etc. from Kokuryeo tomb wall paintings were applied, and various dying methods, natural materials and sewing methods were used to recreate the unique features of Kokuryeo dresses in modern designs in an attempt to recreate the esthetic value of Kokuryeo dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.9
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• pp.1386-1397
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• 2009

This study investigates costumes for ball jointed dolls under the theme of Bok-yo(服妖): The Lady in Early-middle Joseon with relic costumes as a reference. The Bok-yo style was spread universally for Joseon women in the $15^{th}-16^{th}$ centuries, but it is an uncommon theme in the area of media and traditional costume for dolls. Bok-yo (curious outfit), consisted of a Dang-jeogori with a golden brocade in the front bottom, manlike Jang-ot, wide Chima, and Jang-ot was dressed between Chima and the Dang-jeogori. To make correct patterns and approvals for idle bodies of female ball-jointed dolls, darts are added in the front vertical line and center back of the golden brocade Dan-jeogori for Joseon ladies. The pattern of the golden brocade Chima is made as a trapezoid shape for the thin waist of a doll, and the length of a deep-greened silk gauze The Jang-ot increased because of the length of the doll's legs. In addition, the kinds of investigated accessories, hair, traditional underwear for dolls are limited. Suggested is a closer cooperation between the investigated costume designers, doll companies, and accessory makers for the future market of ball jointed dolls.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.108-132
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• 2021

The objective of this study is to develop and present the modern men's hip-hop fashion designs using the design elements of Hanfu which is a traditional culture of China as a motif by applying the SCAMPER technique. In the research methods, this study conducted the literature review and work production. In the process of work development, first, after setting up the concept, a design map was produced. Second, the characteristics of hip-hop fashion style and the design elements of Hanfu were organized. Third, this study developed the hip-hop fashion designs reinterpreting the design elements of Hanfu into modern hip-hop styles by applying the SCAMPER conception list. Fourth, Fourth, of the developed designs, the finally decided upon designs were produced into real six articles, which included a T-shirt, shirt, zippered sweater, jumper, denim jacket, long jumper, denim pants, baggy pants, and short pants. This study offers the possibility of developing Chinese hip-hop fashion design targeting the emerging Chinese hip-hop fashion market by suggesting hip-hop fashion designs with the characteristics of Chinese traditional culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.2
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• pp.244-255
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• 2023

Patterns abstractly depicting flowing water with Chinese characters such as gong, wan(man), or wang continued endlessly and curved water patterns began appearing on textiles during the Song Dynasty. Though Song curved water patterns encompassed poetic sentiments such as "falling flowers and flowing water," the meaning faded with time, and these patterns were depicted in backgrounds with flowers added to brocade (Geum-sang-cheom-hwa). During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, combinations of diverse patterns, including flowers, butterflies, dragons, and auspicious treasures became fashionable, rather than the gong- and wan-shaped curved water patterns. Likewise, during the Joseon Dynasty, curved water patterns were preferred as background rather than as primary patterns. They were overlaid with flowers and clouds. The overlaid flower patterns included four-season flower patterns (17th-18th centuries), round flower patterns (19th century), and large flower patterns (20th century), which were identical to flower patterns fashionable at the time and arranged at intervals on complex curved water pattern backgrounds. In contrast, simple Ruyi types were more numerous than the four-Ruyi types fashionable at the time with regard to cloud patterns. Added here were Taiji (great ultimate symbol) or crane patterns, thus seeking to depict diverse auspicious Ruyi such as wish fulfillment and longevity.