• Title/Summary/Keyword: 복식고증

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한국의 세시풍속과 복식 -소설 〈혼불〉에 표현된 텍스트를 중심으로-

  • 유지헌
    • Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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    • 2003.04a
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    • pp.61-62
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    • 2003
  • 본 연구는 한국의 전통 세시풍속의 가치를 재조명함과 더불어 우리 민족의 세시풍속에 따른 복식문화의 의미를 이해하고 나아가 21세기 새로운 복식문화를 전망함에 그 목적이 있다. 본 연구의 범위는 우리나라 품속과 복식에 관한 고증적 묘사로 수 차례의 수상 경력을 지닌 최명희의 대하소설 〈혼불〉10권 중 세시풍속과 관련된 복식 및 복식행동을 서술한 100여 문장으로 제한하였다. (중략)

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Features of the Costumes of Officials in the King Jeongjo Period Seojangdaeyajodo (정조대 <서장대야조도(西將臺夜操圖)>의 관직자 복식 고증)

  • LEE, Eunjoo;KIM, Youngsun;LEE, Kyunghee
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.54 no.2
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    • pp.78-97
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    • 2021
  • Seojangdaeyajodo is a drawing of military night training on February 12th (lunar leap month), 1795. Focusing on the Seojangdaeyajodo, the characteristics and of the costumes worn by various types of officials were examined. There were 34 officials located near King Jeongjo in and around Seojangdae, with 27 Dangsanggwan and 7 Danghagwan. They wore three types of costumes, including armor, yungbok, and military uniforms. All of the twelve armor wearers and the five officials wearing yungbok were dangsanggwan, and the military uniform wearers included eleven dangsanggwan and six danghagwan. For the shape of the armor, the armor relics of General Yeoban, suitable for riding horses, and the armor painting of Muyedobotongji were referenced, and the composition of the armor was based on practicality. The armor consists of a helmet, a suit of armor, a neck guard, armpit guards, arm guards, and a crotch guard. The color of the armor was red and green, which are the most frequently used colors in Seojangdaeyajodo. The composition of yungbok was jurip, navy cheollik, red gwangdahoe, socks made of leather, and suhwaja. The composition of the military uniform was a lined jeolrip, dongdari, jeonbok, yodae, jeondae, and suhwaja. There were differences in the fabrics used in dangsanggwan and danghagwan military uniforms. Dangsanggwan used fabric with depictions of clouds and jewels, and danghagwan used unpatterned fabric. Moreover, jade, gold, and silver were used for detailed ornamental materials in dangsanggwan. The weapons included bows and a bow case, a sword, a rattan stick, wrist straps, and a ggakji. In the records of the King Jeongjo period, various colored heopsu were mentioned; the colors of the dongdari and jeonbok of dangsanggwan and danghagwan were referenced in various colors. It was presented as an illustration of costumes that could be used to produce objects accurately reflecting the above historical results. The basic principle of the illustration was to present the modeling standards for 3D content production. Samples of form, color, and material of the corresponding times and statuses were presented. The front, the side, and the back of each costume and its accessories were presented, and the colors were presented in RGB and CMYK.

A Study on the Historical Research on the Costume of Memorial Service Officials at Yeongwol King Danjong Cultural Festival (단종 제향 복원을 위한 재관(齋官) 복식 고증)

  • Lee, Eun-Joo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.62 no.8
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    • pp.118-133
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    • 2012
  • A historical research on the costume of memorial service officials during the period of late 18th century, King Jeongjo period, is performed for an accurate reconstruction of the memorial service for King Danjong, which is a part of King Danjong Cultural Festival held at Yeongwol. This paper summarizes the results of the research as follows: 1. Jangneung memorial service is held only on Hansik day and the procedure follows the rule based on Gukjooryeui(國朝五禮儀). The service was first held in 1791 for King Danjong and his royal followers. 2. The rule based on Chunkwantonggo(春官通考), defines the king's tomb memorial services and attendees. King Danjong's memorial service follows the rule regarding its attendees and the attendees include high-ranking local government officials, local confucian scholars, and service men. 3. The costume of attendees for the King Danjong's memorial service is as follows: 1)Dangsangkwan(堂上官) and Danghakwan(堂下官) wear Sangbok(常服), which consisted of Samo(紗帽), Heukdanllyeong(黑團領), Pumdae(品帶), and black boots(黑靴). 2)Local confucian scholars wear their uniform consisting of Yukeon(儒巾), Dopo(道袍), Sejodae, and black boots. 3)Service men wear their uniform consisting of Jeonjakeon(典字巾), red-robe with rounded collar called Hongui(紅衣), Kwangdaw hoe(廣多繪), and Uuhae(雲鞋).

A Study on the Design of Fantasy Game Concept Design based on Original Korean Culture Form (한국 문화 원형을 활용한 판타지 게임 컨셉 디자인 연구 -스토리와 캐릭터 개발을 중심으로-)

  • Oh, Su-Jin;Jeon, Seung-Gyu
    • 한국HCI학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 2006.02b
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    • pp.591-596
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    • 2006
  • 한국 신화는 우리 민족의 정신적, 역사적 원형이며 상상력의 원천이다. 그럼에도 불구하고 타문화권에 비해 신화의 발굴과 대중적 인식이 현저히 부족하다. 그러므로 한국 신화의 창조적 복원을 통해 게임 컨텐츠를 개발하고, 이를 OMSU 사업으로 확장시키며, 나아가서는 한국 신화를 대중화하고 세계화를 달성할 수 있다. 그 시도로써 콘솔용 액션 RPG 게임의 시나리오 창작과, 게임의 성공 핵심이 되는 그래픽 작업 중 캐릭터 디자인을 전개해 보려고 한다. 단순히 고증을 되살리려는 시도보다는 한국적 요소를 게임 캐릭터에 대입하여 한국적 이미지를 도입하는 데 의의가 있으므로 각 시대만의 독창적 요소를 조합하여 새로운 디자인을 시도하였다. 복식은 사료(史料)와 주변 국가의 회화 및 역사자료를 통합한 고증을 토대로 디자인하고, 이를 판타지풍의 게임에 맞게 새롭게 재조명하였다. 본 연구는 한국의 고대 신화와 설화를 원형으로 시나리오를 창작하고, 한국의 복식 요소를 가미한 판타지 게임 캐릭터 디자인을 포함한 문화 컨텐츠를 개발하는 데 목적이 있다. 시나리오는 주인공이 잠시 머무르는 사후의 세계에서 겪게 되는 여러 가지 여정과 적대역 캐릭터들과의 마찰로 기인되는 에피소드를 중심으로 이루어졌다.

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A Study on Historical Research for Costume of Banya(般若) in King Gongmin's Period of Late Goryeo - Focused on the Buddhist Service Costume - (고려 말 공민왕 재위기의 반야(般若) 복식 고증요소 고찰 - 불교법회 복식을 중심으로 -)

  • Choi, Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.65 no.6
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    • pp.112-132
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    • 2015
  • Banya was a concubine slave of Shindon(辛旽) who was a powerful monk in late Goryeo Dynasty, as well as the mother of King Woo(禑王), a successor of King Gongmin(恭愍王). This study was undertaken to investigate the sources of costume for Banya. The study focused on the features of Buddhist service costume, street wear, and daywear for common women's costume during the prime age of the Buddhist culture. The study looked into Buddhist paintings, old documents, advanced research, and relics. There are three characteristics of historically investigated Buddhist service costume for Banya: Dallyeongpo(團領袍), long Jeogori made with black Ra(羅), and Jeogori with a long scarf. Skirt, under Jeogori, under skirt, Cho, Ra(羅), Neung (綾), Dan(緞), patterned ramie(紋紵), and Tapja(塔子) were included in all Buddhist service costume. And, street wear consisted of Women's Dapho(婦人搭忽), long Jeogori, skirt, underwear and black Ra beil(蒙首). Daywear consisted of Banbi(半臂), long Jeogori, and skirt, underwear made with cheap fabric, Ju(綢), ramie, and imported cotton. Plumper hair, silver comb and Biyeo, lining of light pink-colored thin silk(小紅薄絹), bronze openworked ornament that fixed the outerwear's opening, bronze needle case, Sutra box and heated gemstone could be matched for the Buddhist service costume. Bronze and heated gemstone could be used for ornaments of street wear and daywear. The investigation of ornaments was carried on by referring to presentation of overseas collections. Considering the limitation of the study on Goryeo costume due to the lack of research material, future studies including much more relics in oversea collections needs to be undertaken.

A Study on the Costume of Ball Jointed Dolls as Cultural Product with Application of Ladies' Costume Culture from Late Goryeo to Early Joseon (고려말 조선초의 상류층 여성 복식문화를 응용한 구체관절인형의상 문화상품 연구)

  • Choi, Jeong
    • Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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    • v.12 no.9
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    • pp.3815-3826
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    • 2011
  • TThis study was undertaken to make trial costumes of ball jointed dolls for promoting the beauty of Korean cultural product with historical research of upper class ladie's costume from late Goryeo to early Joseon, the very unknown period in the Korean costume history. The ladies' costume from late Goryeo to early Joseon are characterized by their full silhouette, fusion with clothings of Yuan and Ming, revival of early Goryeo styles, well-developed weaving skill of ramie, a showy costume from Buddhist civilization. After investigation of researcher with literature, painting, and relics in 13-14C, 8 clothing items were outsourced totally. Items were formed as a set concept, but consumer can choose each costume as an single item and can make varied mix also. Dart, small ties, and thick fabrics were used in doll costumes partly because ball jointed doll's body has different characteristics from that of human beings. Developing research of manufacturing company's system for ready-made product remains to be considered in the future.

Undergraduate Students' Perspectives towards Modernization of Historical Costume in Historical Drama -Focused on Havruta Learning- (사극 드라마에 나타난 고증 의상의 현대화에 대한 대학생들의 인식 -하브루타 학습법을 중심으로-)

  • Kim, Jang-Hyeon;Lee, Yu-Rim
    • Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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    • v.22 no.5
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    • pp.343-353
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    • 2021
  • Historical dramas are changing in response to the public who wants more dramatic development, and historical costumes are also expressed in a modern sense. The purpose of this study is to examine the modernization of historical costumes in historical dramas and how the modernization of historical costumes in historical dramas is fostered from the learner's point of view with suggesting implications. As a result of this study, first, the essential problem with the modernization of historical costumes was the excessive modern transformation that undermines historical facts in historical dramas. Second, the negative perceptions of the modernization of historical costumes in historical dramas included the loss of the unique Korean identity, decreased immersion in drama, and the educational influence of media. Positive perceptions focused on the increased interest through raising awareness of traditional culture, compromises on changes in the times, and increased visual play of the public. Third, the implications of the modernization of historical costumes in historical dramas require the awareness improvement of participants in historical drama and a thorough preliminary investigation by the costume designer on the historical costume, an in-depth study of traditional costumes, a systematic educational approach, viewers' attention, and government effort.

A Study of the Historical Reconstruction of the Western Man's Coat in the Early of the 19th Century (19세기 초 서양 남성상의 고증제작 연구)

  • Ryu, Kyung-Hwa;Kim, Yang-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.65 no.1
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    • pp.136-149
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    • 2015
  • This research aimed to study the making of western men's coats in the early 19th century. First of all, the study figured out the concepts and forms of western men's tops in the early 19th century by collecting and categorizing pictures including engravings, paintings and pattern books, and literature data. Second, this research identified the patterns, sewing, and design techniques by examining the pattern books on men's clothing in the early 19th century, and analyzed the preserved costumes to restore the selected models. Third, this research presented historical evidences and patterns after designing a men's tailcoat of the early $19^{th}$ century and checking the fit based on the analyzed forms and design techniques. The research discovered that the analyzed results between the tailcoat forms depicted in literature, pictures and pattern books and preserved costumes were almost identical. From this, it can be assumed that the tailors followed a manual when designing garments during that time given the similarity between historical records and remaining items. In addition, it can be seen that the forms and designing methods of men's clothing in the 19th century were almost similar to that of the modern menswear, despite the differences in producing process.

A Study on the Historical Research of Indigo Clothing Gifts of Early Joseon -Focusing on the Po and Ieom of King Seongjong's Reign- (조선 전기 아청사여복식(鴉靑賜與服飾)의 고증적 분석 -성종 재위기의 포 류와 이엄을 중심으로-)

  • Choi, Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.44 no.1
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    • pp.107-125
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    • 2020
  • Indigo [鴉靑] was used as a symbolic color in 15th century diplomacy. This study reinforces the historical research for characteristic and shapes of indigo colored royal clothing gift in King Seongjong's reign with a focus on po [袍] and ieom [耳掩]. Clothing made of fur that was combined with satin damask, silk gossamer [綃] were frequent gift, and a sable coat was a symbol of high-ranking clothes. Another clothing's materials were satin damask, sheer fabric gauze [羅], cotton, tabby with silk and ramie [紵絲]. The indigo color of King Seongjong's reign was recommended not for luxury. Historical research factors for indigo clothing gift were extracted from noblemen's relics. Danryeong and jigryeong are shaped of narrow sleeves and trapezoid gusset pleated in and out. Sable coat can consist of satin damask outshell, sable lining, and double oblique collar. Heohyung are presumed types of short sleeved fur vests. Ieom can be reconstructed with an indigo fabric outshell and sufficient fur. Dapho has gusset pleated wide and narrow. As additional gifts, the shapes of yoseon-cheopri and cheopri were analyzed. We selected a commercial fabric similar to relics and an indigo powder dyeing method to remedy a lack of traditional material. The reconstructed data were presented as flat drawings and samples.