• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2005.04a
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• pp.127-130
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• 2005

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.5 s.114
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• pp.45-57
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• 2007

This study is on the aesthetic characteristics of Balenciaga design succeeded to by Nicolas Ghesquiere, and tried to understand his pursuing brand's new design concept and aesthetics. The three key characteristics of Balenciaga designed by Nicolas Ghesquiere are Retrospecitvness, Eclecticism, Deconstruciton. First, Balenciaga looks retrospective sense through reinterpreting tradition. Nicolas created a new sense of expression by mixing his proper instinct with Balenciaga's original properties, historical components of the past western dress, and various design elements of assistants who used to work in Balenciaga. Second, Balenciaga expresses uncertain meaning by compromising between contrast and synthesis among the past and the future, the males and the females, simple and ornament, or different styles. Third, Nicolas's experimental and outsider-oriented view of Deconstruction through reorienting of thought is considered a try for a new formative concept as a designer who is not limited by general rules.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.523-534
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to categorize the dimensions of the visual evaluation of the costume details of the retro romantic fashion and to research on the costume details and the visual evaluation by evaluators' gender, age, and major, and on their preferences. Quantitative research were conducted for this study. Based on the pictures, 10 costume details were selected for the survey questions and data were collected. All 446 subjects who participated in this research were college students(males and females) residing in or near Seoul. Data were collected in September, 2008. The collected data were statistically analyzed using SPSS which included: factor analysis, Cronbach's $\alpha$ reliability analysis, three-way ANOVA, two-way ANOVA, one-way ANOVA, Duncan's multiple range tests, and the t-test. The results of visual evaluation of retro romantic fashion are as follows: First, as a result of the factor analysis of the costume detail evaluation, five factors including attractiveness, decorativeness, cuteness, retro, and femininity surfaced. Second, the gender difference in the results of the research revealed that women rated decorative, cute, retro, and feminine characteristics higher than men did. Third, there were significant interactive effects in attractiveness and femininity depending on costume details and evaluators' gender. Fourth, subjects majoring in fashion valued attractiveness and femininity of the stimulus over non-fashion majoring subjects. Fifth, there were significant differences in the preferences of costume details depending on gender.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.105-119
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to grasp the aesthetic characteristics of the retro romantic fashion. As a result of study, three artistic characteristics of the retro romantic fashion were presented. First, retro romantic fashion has an exaggerated formativeness. Retro romantic fashion has overcome the confinement of the present to imitate the splendor and decorative style of the past which results in exaggeration. Exaggerated costume tends to be spaciously bigger and emphasizes one particular part which offers implicated significance for the space between the body and the costume. A new visual fashion is created through this space. Second, retro romantic fashion encompasses gorgeous decorativeness. From an artistic point of view, decorations are part of impulsively formulated art. Artistic effects of such decorations are uniformly confirmed in various artistic states. Therefore, through gorgeous decorations, retro romantic fashion rejects artificiality and lack of sensitivity for new effects of aesthetics through expression of stronger artistic and spiritual desires. Third, retro romantic fashion expresses pluralistic retro. The current society has left the formalities of the modernism for a pluralistic society where openness, diversity, and uniqueness are respected. Such components of the pluralistic society are repetitively used in fashion. Time reflective retro romantic fashion is being recreated by borrowing images rather than replaying the historical contents, with the style, silhouette, and specific items that swayed in the past, being combined with modern materials, techniques, and designs. Literature review were conducted for this study. Literature review on retro romanticism encompassed resources on aesthetics, literature and art, including national and international fashion related literatures.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.924-936
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• 2008

The purpose of this thesis is to discuss corsets that represent an undergarment that later became a popular outerwear. It discusses its forms and distinct characteristics to help create a unique fashion design and its execution. The scope of this study is limited to works from the 1990s to the present, and the materials for the literatures and exploratory study are fashion-related portfolios and the domestic and foreign fashion magazines. The results of this study are summarized as follows: The standard look of corsets in modern fashion can be classified into styles of glamour, revival, and dismantle. The materials used vary from traditional fabrics such as satin or lace to newly developed materials such as metal or glass. Its presentation can also differ in that it may be used as an accessory with additional details, as an outerwear, as an extra decorative layer, or as a revealing innerwear by open outerwear. Characteristics of these various looks of corsets are; first, it redefines the revival of the traditional corsets through introduction of its historic elements and its compromise. Second, glamorous and feminine images are maximized through drastic and direct exposure by using tight lacing, a waist nipper or garter belts that emphasize a woman's curve. Third, it represents borderless dismantlement through experimental and irregular images using unconventional materials, new execution techniques, or alteration from the standard forms.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.105-120
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• 2003

Culture and society exist in the present, but they came from the past. So did clothing. As dressing is deeply based on culture pattern of the times, it is affected by various culture patterns and still keeps developing in modern times. This study is intended to examine the features of retro fashion on culture and dressing of the 19th century. The features of retro fashion on Neoclassical and Romantic culture and dressing are objection to the existing pattern, recursion to the past, and creativity characteristic of pattern of those days. Neoclassicism arose as it rejected Baroque and Rococo style, and imitated culture and artistic pattern of Greece and Rome. Romanticism objected to formal and universal pattern of Neoclassicism, and imitated Gothic style while recognizing historical facts and studying medieval times. Dressing in Neoclassicism did not accept exaggerated and luxurious Rococo pattern, and imitated simple, soft and straight silhouette of Greece and Rome and created its unique Empire Style. Romanticism imitated luxurious style of Renaissance, the Middle Ages, Baroque, and Rococo, different from simple and straight neoclassical style during the Bourbon restoration, and created its unique style. Thus, it is shown that retro fashion on Neoclassical and Romantic culture and dressing reflect the style of those days.

• The Korean Publising Journal, Monthly
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• s.253
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• pp.10-10
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• 1999

한 시대의 문학베스트셀러는 대중의 상상력과 감수성이 어느 지점에서 작동하는지를 민감하게 반영하는 지표다. 80년대 문학이 '이념'과 '역사'라는 거대서사를 정점으로 움직였다면, 90년대 문학은 '일상'과 '소비문화'의 미시서사로 하강했다. 성과 사랑이라는 고전적 주제 외에 여성의 정체성, 민족주의적 감수성, 흔들리는 부권과 가정에 대한 복고주의 등을 주제로 한 작품들이 베스트셀러 목록을 점령했다.

• Journal of Korean Medical classics
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.231-268
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• 2007

재일본규주황한의학적전통의학지전신취시중국전통의학적지식(在日本叫做皇漢醫學的傳統醫學之前身就是中國傳統醫學的知識). 16세기이래(16世記以來), 일본불단수도이개조중국의학적최신성과(日本不斷收到而改造中國醫學的最新成果), 동양원류우부동홍류적한방의학체계점점형성적과정전후(同樣源流又不同洪流的漢方醫學體系점점形成的過程前后), 출현료4개학문유파(出現了4個學問流派). 저취시(저就是)"후세파(后世派)"."고방파(古方派)"."절충파(折衷派)"."고증파(考證派)". 소우호세파(소于호世派), 논자이경재대한한의학원전학회지적제19권3호상보고료(논者已경在大한한의학原典학회紙的第19卷3호上보告了), 본논문시연속적연구성과(本논文是연속的硏究成果). 종이재본논문상(종而在本논文上), 이한국적이정환(以한국的李政桓), 백유상(白裕相), 정창현등적연구여중국양영적연구위기초(丁彰炫等的硏究與中國梁嶸的硏九爲基礎), 요개략지보고일본의학방면상적‘고방파’(要槪略地報告日本의학方面上的'古方派'). "고방파"지칭부정근세송명의학이지지지한대장중경적"상한잡병론"지일본의가("古方派"指稱否定近世宋明醫學而只支持漢代張仲景的"傷寒雜病論"之日本醫家). 일반"상한론"전파우일본적실정시대(一般"傷寒論"傳播于日本的室町時代), 명응년간(明應年間)(1492${\sim}$1500)판정운재명유학후(阪淨運在明留학후), 타회도일본적시후(他回到日本的시候), 종명수입(종明수入)"상한잡병론(傷寒雜病論)", 이후일본후세한의칭송료이관동지역적영전덕본(以후日本후世漢醫칭송了以關東地域的永田德本)(1513-1603)위(爲)"고방파적선구자(古方派的先구者)". 도강호시대재일본학술계출현료복고사조(到江戶時代在日本學術係出現了復古思潮). 이등인제(伊藤仁劑)(1627${\sim}$1705)앙망료유학적경전(仰望了儒學的經典), 이차적극지주장료의학적복고(而且積極地主張了醫學的復古), 이후적생조래(以후荻生組徠)(1666${\sim}$1728)대우복여성인적학문부단노력(對于復與聖人的學問不斷努力). 인차복고적학문재덕천시대성위일대학파(因此復古的學問在德川時代成爲一代學派), 18세기상반기시전성시기(18世紀上半期是全盛시期). 주요의가시명고옥현의(主要醫家是名古屋玄議)(1628${\sim}$1696), 후등양산(後藤양山)(1659${\sim}$1733), 산협동양(山脅東洋), 병하천민(병河天民)(1679${\sim}$1719), 송원유악(松原維嶽)(1689${\sim}$1765), 향천수암(香川修庵)(1683${\sim}$1755), 타문복고적유학영향도흔다의학방면(他문復古的儒學影향到흔多의학方面). 중요의가길익동동(重要醫家吉益東洞)(1702${\sim}$1773)도후대피평위고방적'태두'(到后代被평위古方的'泰斗'), 동시'마귀'(同시'魔鬼'). 인차본논문소우황한의학지중"후세파"여반대후세파적"고방파"(因此本論文소于皇漢醫學之中"后世派"與反대后世派的"古方派"), 통과학파명칭여역사지위(通過學派名稱與歷史地位), 주요의가적생애(主要醫家的生涯), 학술적요지(學術的要旨), 저서등(著書等), 이연구병보고타문적학문주장(以硏究병報告他們的學問主張). 이차진저차궤회(而且진저次机회), 상회고아문한의학연착여하역사적궤적(想回고我문韓醫學沿着如何歷史的軌跡).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.71-83
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to analyze the formative costume of Baroque style and to in-vestigate the characteristic of loop and tassel which are the main factors of decoration in the Post-modern clothing in point of the characteristic of retro. For this purpose, theoretical studies about the concepts of Post-modernism and aesthetic sphere o Baroque style were preceeded. Especially the parody which is concept that is the most influencing to the contemporary art, architecture, and costume. It is the identity of the parody that is being understood smoothly the creation and the imi-tation which is contrasted each other. The parody is urging the purpose rather than the essence and the recreation rather than the originality of the original works. The synthetic results were as follows ; 1. The frequent usage of loop and tassel which was expressed in the first half of 1990's in the modern clothing influenced the aes-thetic will of aspiration about the past. 2. The characteristic of retro to the tra-ditional form constitutes a base of spiritual thinking of Post-modernism which has been expressed in 1970's afterwards. The peculiarity about the great change in the traditional concept of artistic creation in the Post-modern clothing is the very extention of a range of application about the retro in which it becomes the essence or the oppor-tunity in artistic creation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.9
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• pp.1645-1654
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• 2001

패션은 지속적으로 변화하며 이는 새로운 패션 트렌드의 출현을 의미한다. 특히 지난 1990년대 패션은 사회, 과학, 경제, 문화 등 사회환경의 급격한 변화로 새롭고 다양한 가치의 추구로 패션분야에서도 새로운 것에 대한 욕구가 급증하였다. 따라서 본 연구는 1990년대 패션 트렌드를 분석하여 패션의 특성을 파악하여 미래의 패션을 예측하고 대응하기 위한 자료를 구축하는 것을 목적으로 하였다. 패션트렌드는 향후 예측되는 유행테마, 스타일, 색채 , 소재 , 디테일 등을 제시하고 있는데 , 본 연구에서는 시대상을 보다 심층적으로 파악하기 위하여 패션테마만을 집중적으로 분석하고 고찰하였다. 일반적으로 패션테마로 제시되는 개념 이 나 용어들은 동시대의 사회현상과 패션 분야에서 요구될 것으로 예상되는 내용이 비교적 자유분방하게 제 시 하고 있으므로, 패션 테마의 분석과 고찰은 패션의 실체를 이해하는데 매우 유용하다 하겠다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 패션테마로 제시된 용어들을 수집하고 분석하여 , 패션경향는 물론 패션의 실체를 파악하고자 하였다. 연구 대상은 1990년대 10년간의 패션트렌드로 설정했으며, 분석자료는 구체적으로 국내패션정보사인 K·F·S와 S· F·I에서 제시한 트렌드지를 사용하였다. 연구결과 1990년대 패션은 종래의 상식적인 디자인 개념을 넘어서서 여러 가지 다채로운 스타일들이 역사적 시간과 여러 문화의 공간을 오가며 교류되는 포스트모더니즘적 인 특성을 강하게 나타냈으며 , 이러한 경향은 매우 깊고 광범위하게 1990년대 의 패션트렌드에 반영되어 나타났다. 최근의 첨단 과학 기술의 발달과 이에 반하는 자연으로의 회귀욕구와 인간의 본질을 추구하는 인식의 전환 또한 패션 트랜드에 영향을 주었다. 이들을 포용하는 패션 주제는 크게 자연주의, 세계주의, 미래주의, 복고주의 등으로 분석되었다. 이 와 같은 패션 테마들은 각각 독립 적 이 기보다는 서로 상호 보완하고 조화를 이루는 가운데 1990년대 패션으로 형상화되었다. 이러한 1990년대 패션 경향의 분석 결과는 동시대의 사회상을 반영하는 동시에 패션의 특징인 주기성과 반복성을 그대로 보여주고 있었다. 이러한 연구 결과는 패션의 특징을 파악하고, 21세기 패션 경향을 보다 정확하게 예측하고 제시할 수 있는 중요한 자료로 사용될 수 있을 것으로 기대한다.