• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권12호
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• pp.1441-1452
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• 2003

오늘날 지체장애인의 수는 후천적 원인으로 인하여 점점 증가하는 추세에 있다. 이에 본 연구는 훨체어를 사용하는 하반신마비자 중 성인남성을 중심으로 인체계측을 통해 적합성이 높은 바지를 개발하는데 목적이 있다. 연구 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 인체계측 결과 하반신마비자들은 정상인과 비교했을 때 허리둘레 및 배둘레에서 유의한 차이를 보여 새로운 치수체계가 필요로 함을 알 수 있었다 또 자세 변화에 따른 둘레항목의 치수 변화와 피부 신축율에 의해 허리선의 변화가 고려되어 평상시의 휠체어에 앉은 자세에서 계측한 항목으로 원형이 설계되어야 할 필요가 있다고 분석되었다. 2. 연구원형은 기성복화 하기 위한 방법으로 먼저 기준치수(98-102)를 선정하고, 원형 각 부위는 절대치로 수치화 시켜서 제시하였다. 뒤밑위길이선은 허리선에서 8cm 늘이고 앞밑위길이선은 허리선에서 6cm 줄여 앉은 자세에서 편안함을 확보할 수 있도록 하였다. 기준치수의 경우 바지길이 107cm, 밑위길이 26cm, 밑위선 28cm, 엉덩이둘레선은 밑위선 위로 8.5cm, 바지부리는 10.5cm이고 외관과 기능성 평가 결과 대부분의 항목에서 우수한 평가를 받았다. 3. 계측 대상자 계측치를 근거로 치수의 출현율을 고려하여 연구 치수체계를 기본 신체부위인 앉은 허리둘레와 앉은 엉덩이둘레의 순으로 적용하여 총 7개의 치수로 설정하였다. 기준치수(98-102)의 연구원형을 마스터 패턴으로 하고 구체적인 원형 부위별 절대치로써 치수 차를 검토하여 연구 그레이딩 룰을 설계하였으며 기준치수 보다 작은 사이즈 88-93과 큰 사이즈 108-111의 적합성을 검증하였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권8호
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• pp.1524-1535
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to establish a sizing system according to size and dimension whereby manufactured pants can be classified and develop men’s formal pants pattern based on the analysis of ready-made and educational pants pattern. The first, we surveyed the sizing and the basic pants patterns of the men’s ready-made wear companies, Secondly, through the survey data of the domestic men’ready-mad clothing industry, we proposed a new sizing system. Lastly, after compared three different types of ready-mad pants manufactured according to their patterns and an additional type of pants made after the educational pattern, the new men’s basic pants pattern were developed. The findings were as follows: 1. Survey of the domestic ready-mad garment industry showed that each company classified its own manufactured goods according to its own sizing system: moreover, they each used its own unique patterns which appeared to be resulted from a combination of two factors : the experience of a patterner and foreign know-how technology. 2. New sizing system was developed with 12 steps from size 74-88 to size 96-106 based on the high frequencies of the companies’3. New basic patterns for men’s formal pants were developed: Inseam length = 80cm, crotch line = H/4+4.6cm, pants ham = 23.5cm as basic lines and front waist girth =W/4+9.1cm as drafting line. 4. the superiority of the new basic patterns were been demonstrated by a high approval rate of the subjects who participated in testing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.91-102
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to suggest a individually fitted slacks pattern in order to help ourselves prepared for the days of the order-based production like the EC in the apparel industry. A pattern was designed to make the personal fit improved based on the present study and the analysis of the measurements and the body shapes. The main characteristics of this newly designed slacks pattern are as follows. To improve fitting, the pattern requires more detailed data such as front and back waist arc, front and back hip arc, hip depth, the gradient of hip. And for personal fitted pattern, knee girth was established in the proportion to the hip girth and the crotch curve was adjusted to the measurements after drawing and the side seam curve was changed according to the front hip type and the ease in waist and hip was established by the percentage. Slacks pattern was developed into an automatic drafting program. Through the sensory evaluation for the appearance and moving fitness, newly designed slacks pattern was turned out to be improved in personal fit espacially for the body type out of the average.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권1호
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• pp.11-21
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• 2009

It is remarkable that the children's wear market has been growing instead of declining birth rate. The parents are willing to pay more when they find children's wear of better design and improved quality. For better quality, it is necessary to research on the pattern making of children's wear. After the interview with the 10 leading children's brands, we found that they develop individual design pattern based on each items middle block pattern which characterize the brands design line. Most frequently used middle block is for casual pants. Through interview with pattern designers, comparative study of patterns drafting methods, wearing test of trial garments and altering and adjustment of patterns, we developed the casual pants block pattern for 7 years old boys.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권6호
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• pp.999-1011
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• 2008

국내 패션관련 교육기관은 대부분은 졸업작품 쇼를 행하고 있는데, 학생들이 직접 제작하는 작품 쇼의 경우는 시간적, 경제적 인 여유 부족과 정확한 모델 치수 및 이에 따른 인대와 원형패턴의 부재로 의상 제작 후, 사이즈 수정에 많은 시간을 허비하게 된다. 따라서 본 연구는 대학의 졸업작품 진행 과정의 문제점과 필요한 원형의 종류를 조사하고, 현역 A급 모델의 신체 치수를 계측하여 표준 사이즈를 조사하였다. 이를 토대로 아이템에 따른 원형을 제작, 이를 현역 모델에 착장하여 졸업 쇼를 위한 기본 패턴을 제시하고자 하였다. 졸업작품 쇼는 학교에 따라 진행하는 과정과 기간에 차이를 보이지만 대부분 모델 가봉 후 수선 정도가 많고 경우에 따라서는 의상을 새로이 제작하여야하는 경우도 발생하여 모델 사이즈의 기본원형에 대한 필요성이 많이 나타났다. 모델의 신체 계측결과 모델은 일반인에 비해 슬림하고 가는 체형이며 키가 크고 다리가 길다. 여자의 경우 어깨너비가 일반인에 비해 넓지만 가슴둘레와 허리둘레는 더 가늘게 나타났으며 어깨를 편 바른 자세여서 뒷품과 앞품의 차이가 적었다. 이는 남자 모델의 경우도 같게 나타났고 전체적으로 다리길이와 소매길이의 비율이 크게 나타났다. 여자의 경우 토르소와 스커트, 바지패턴을, 남자의 경우 재킷과 바지 패턴을 머슬린으로 제작하여 현재 활동 중인 A급 남녀 모델 각각 2명씩에게 착장하였다. 제작원형들은 그 맞음새가 모두 적절하였고 남녀 모두 상의 경우는 편차가 적은 어깨너비는 고정하고 품과 둘레항목에서 편차를 주어 패턴을 수정하는 것이 바람직하다. 하의의 경우 여자 모델은 엉덩이 부분에 여유가 없는 바지원형을 설계 제시하고, 이는 타이트 핏 팬츠나 스트레치 소재에 사용에 적절하고 여유 있는 바지의 경우는 엉덩이둘레 폭과 밑위너비 폭에 변화를 주는 것이 바람직하다. 남자모델의 경우 하의는 비교적 잘 맞아 수정이 필요한 부분이 없었으며 전체적인 둘레 편차 역시 3cm 내외로 작아 수정의 폭은 작다. 다만 키에 따른 다리길이 편차가 심해 모델에 따라 길이조정 이 필요하지만 전체적인 맞음새에 영향을 주지 않았다. 이와 같이 본 연구에서 제안한 모델 치수는 현재 우리나라에서 활동하고 있는 A급 모델을 기준으로 제안되었으므로 평균적인 모델 치수와 근접하다고 할 수 있다. 또한 연구패턴 역시 현재 모델의 신체에 적절하게 잘 맞았으며 모델 개인에 따른 신체 치수의 편차에 따라 차이를 보이겠지만 본 연구에서 제시된 패턴의 품 조절만으로도 충분히 잘 맞는 패턴으로 사료된다.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제25권5호
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• pp.107-116
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• 2020

본 연구에서는 교육용 2개와 산업체용 2개의 남성 바지 패턴을 비교하여 중년남성의 체형에 가장 적합한 패턴제도법을 분석함으로써 맞음새가 우수한 중년남성 의복제작에 필요한 기초자료를 제공하고자 하였다. 가상착의에 대한 외관평가 결과, J패턴이 대부분의 항목에서 가장 우수한 것으로 평가되었으며, H패턴이 가장 부적합한 것으로 분석되었다. 공극량을 측정한 결과, 허리둘레 부분은 4개 패턴 모두 공극량이 매우 작은 것으로 평가되었고, 바지통은 J패턴이 가장 공극량이 작은 것으로 나타났다. 가상착의 외관평가, 색분포도, 단면도, 공극률 등을 종합한 결과, 중년남성의 체형에 J패턴이 가장 맞는 패턴이었다. 그러나 J패턴의 경우에도 바지길이에 대한 수정이 필요할 것으로 분석되었다. 본 연구는 교육용 2개와 산업체용 2개의 패턴만을 비교 분석하였으므로 J패턴을 중심으로 하여 실제 착의실험을 통한 중년남성용 바지 원형 개발이 필요할 것으로 생각된다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.453-461
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• 1991

The purpose of this research was to develop an automatic design with dialogue function in computer for pants pattern making. AutoCAD including AutoLISP was the programable software package, so AutoCAD were used basically for this research. The conclusions were like these; 1. Dialogue functions of computer allowed the designer to choose emotional elements. 2. The coordinate points needed in drafting for women's pants pattern making were suggest-ed by numerical fomula. So, if the input data of body sizes needed were used, pants patterns for person were automatically obtained as the output. 3. The several curvature parts were presented by using exponent function and the arc drawing of AutoCAD and the degree of bends were to be selected by choosing the simple parameter of algebraic function and arc AutoCAD command. 4. The program permited pattern manipulation and pattern grading of five standard sizes were presented. Also its flow chart by AutoLISP with dialogue function were presented.

• 복식
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• 제58권8호
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• pp.47-62
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop a basic sloper for pants that would be appropriate for young Korean school girls between the ages of 6 to 11 years old. Pants available in the apparel market for children do not properly correspond to the body size of the target consumer group. This research explores the characteristics of the body size of the group and also identifies problems of the conventional pants sloper that would be generally used for the production of children's apparel. Ultimately it presents a basic sloper for a possible use for manufacturing. The basic slopers for pants were collected from three different companies and were the examples used for this study. An experimental pants sloper was developed, reflecting the average body size of a nine year-old girl, which Is thought to be the master size for grading in children's wear Four different cotton prototype pants were made based on the three companies' slopers and the experimental one for evaluation of the fit and overall shape of the pants on subjects. The results revealed that the design, fit, and overall look of the experimental pants was superior to that of the opposing companies' product. After alteration of the experimental sloper, a basic pants sloper was finalized. The finalized pants sloper was determined at W/4+1cm for the front waist and W/4+2cm for the back, H/4+0.5cm for the front hip and H/4+1.5cm for the bark hip, and 73cm for its length with 15.5cm and 18cm for its front and back pants width at the bottom, respectively.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제39권10호
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• pp.97-109
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• 2001

It is thought that a composition of trousers is related to fabrics with single breadth. Therefore, trousers are designed with pattern using this fabrics with single breadth. However, in the old pattern of trousers, the breadth of 33cm-35cm was not considered in designing patterns. In this context, deciding which pattern design is better is not easy as there are a variety of estimation methods. So in this study, standardization of drafting is pursued by an objective pattern design. For this, a base angle of the trouser closely relating to a form and function was measured and using the height and the base angle, a trouser pattern design was tried. For a measurement of the base angle, 5 subject were selected. They are 25-29 year-old male graduates with fine physical standard. The base angle was measured with symphysis pubis point as a standard when subjects sat with their legs crossed, when they stood with their legs open (not forced artificially) and when they laid down with their legs open. The distance between a knee inside joint and knees was measured three times and the resultant value was used for the pattern design. For a design of trousers, the height was applied and the base angle was fixed. As a pattern drawing, using the height, a base angle and circumference of the hip, a trouser was designed. The production method for the pattern design is as follow: (1) The length formula, is height + $\frac{height}{2}$ (2) The hip girth formula is $\frac{hipgirth}{2}$ - $\frac{hipgirth}{20}$(3) A crotch angle is fixed at $72^{\circ}$. (4) The ratio of outer leg length to leg width is 5 : 8. (5) The component ratio of the upper outer leg length to the pant length is 5 : 8. (6) The ratio of the division point of front right inner leg length and left inner width to upper outer leg length is 5 : 8.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.54-65
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• 1996

The purposes of this study were 1) to present the optimum slacks pattern for young men, 2) to develope a methodology to draft basic slacks pattern using AutoCAD The total crotch legth and the shape of the crutch line were determined by anthropometric data analysis. The total crotch length was calculated with the waist girth, the hip girth and the crotch length measurements. The anthropometric data utilized for this procedure was National Anthropometric Survey of Korea, 1992. And multidimensional anthropometric measurements were carried out for 6 male college students between the age of 18 to 24. The subjects were measured with the Martin's anthropometer and the sliding gauge. Mean, standard deviation and t-test were performed for statistical analysis of the data. The automatic drafting method was programmed by AutoLISP in AutoCAD. The automatic drafting was based on the Muller's slacks pattern drafting method, the measurements of slacks construction components and the curve of crotch line. The crotch line was drafted using of the arc function in AutoCAD. The total crotch length was calcuated using the multiple regression equation. The experimental pattern developed to accomodate individual body wleasurements expected to produce customized apparel production in QRS(Quick Response System) production system.