• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.23-31
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• 2007

This study was conducted to reproduce the four-piece bodice pattern of a ladies' costume of the 1890's for Korean women in their twenties with a standard body type and average size. Eighteen four-piece bodice patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The front width of the bodice was wider than the back width. The front bust line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back bust line, the side back bust line and the under-arm gore bust line. The front waist line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back waist line, the side back waist line and the under-arm gore waist line. The angles of the two waist darts of the bodice were very big but the legs of the dart were too short. The center front line of the bodice was oblique and curved. The angle of the back shoulder line of the bodice was bigger than the angle of front shoulder line. The shoulder seam line of the bodice was not placed on the top of the shoulder but behind the shoulder. The pattern characteristics of the bodice created a woman's silhouette that emphasized the volume of the bust, a chicken breast and a slim waist. The study pattern which had the characteristics of the four-piece bodice of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women in their twenties who have a standard body type and an average size through modifications based on the evaluation of two dressing occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the 1890's and to fit Korean women.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.290-299
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to testify the pattern making method to develop the men's basic bodice pattern using 3-dimensional body scan data. The experimental patterns were made by adding wearing ease on flattened body scan data and tracing the outlines of it. The experimental bodice pattern were composed of front, back, and side panels. To compare the difference between the experimental pattern and traditional pattern, two pattern making methods were compared. Two sets of basic bodice patterns were made for each of the 10 male subjects: a set of pattern was made by experimental method and the other set was made by Bunka pattern making method. The experimental and traditional patterns were measured at 13 dimensions. The results show that there was a difference between the experimental patterns and traditional patterns at the front length, back length, front width, front neck width, back neck width, and back neck depth. The fit was also compared for both patterns. The results of the fit test show that the experimental patterns were superior to the traditional patterns at the fit of neck, shoulder, and armhole. The experimental pattern making method was expected to be useful for mass customization.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 1997.04a
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• pp.255-257
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• 1997

• Proceedings of KHEA Conference
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• 2005.10a
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• pp.111-111
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• 2005

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.9
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• pp.16-25
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to develop pattern of a Upper Garment Prototype for late elementary school aged girls. The body of late elementary school aged girls changes steadily up to the adult and is characterized by its periodic noticeable physical distinctions. This study is selected a test pattern from 3 existing patterns through a preliminary wearing test, conducted wearing tests, and sensory evaluations three times to review and improve the pattern, and presented the pattern of late elementary school aged girls. The research pattern was developed considering aesthetic and functional aspect. The average score of sensory evaluation on appearance was 4.13 for the research pattern, which was higher than 2.74 for the test pattern. The according to the results of verifying significant differences in the test items between the two patterns through the t-test, in the items such as pleats in the line of a waist, the ease of the girth of a waist, the location of shoulder line was superior to the test pattern. The average score of the sensory evaluation on functionality was 4.91 for the research pattern, which was higher than 3.90 for the test pattern. The research pattern is superior to the test pattern in static posture, dynamic posture than the test pattern.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.153-162
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• 1998

The bodice of character is classification in three period. The Fitted bodice in bustle style is characteristics, and is named as Cuirass Bodice. The Cuirass Bodice form the ground work in modern costume. So the purpose of this study is to understand background on the Cuirass Bodice, and is to analize periodical character. The Method of This study refer to literature, used illustration, and make actually Cuirass Bodice.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.634-644
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• 2021

This study aims to propose various ways to utilize CLO, which focuses mainly on the production of 3D virtual samples, by comparing it with the pattern drafting functions of Four apparel CAD experts, who have teaching experience in YUKA and CLO, participated in a focus group interview, and a basic bodice prototype drafting was carried out by each participant to evaluate the pattern drafting functions of YUKA and CLO. The result of this study showed that the pattern drafting tools of YUKA are subdivided since YUKA is a CAD tool inherently specialized in pattern making. Though CLO provided a relatively limited pattern drafting menu compared to YUKA, it was found that pattern drafting could be accomplished with the help of supplementary tools and functions. This finding suggests that each CAD offers the corresponding tools for the same use of menus or functions in the prototype drafting process. The major difference between YUKA and CLO is that YUKA defines the pattern area by a set of line segments, whereas CLO utilizes an outline composed of closed curves. YUKA provides various specific tools according to the options such as angles, straight lines, and curves, while CLO produces the same results using combinations of a limited number of tools. Compared with YUKA, the advantage of CLO is its user-friendly task environment such as the Windows-based user interface, from the usability perspective. This study concludes that pattern drafting education using CLO would help not only industrial 3D design practitioners but also pattern education in academia

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.713-721
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• 2018

This study aimed to develop a draping manual for the basic bodice to be available in colleges and industries. For this, draping methods mentioned in six different textbooks were comparatively analyzed. As for the research method, draping methods were compared by using training textbook, and basic bodices designed with muslin were assessed using the 5-point Likert scale. First, the draping methods of basic bodices were comparatively analyzed. The main baselines were set as the center front line, the center back line, the bust line, and the shoulder blade line. The position of dart was suggested based on the princess line, in both the front and the back. The value of dart was classified as a fixed size with any associated excess. The length of dart was set based on the bust point and shoulder blade point or a fixed size. The amount of ease was randomly set based on the fixed size, bust circumference, waist circumference, interscye length, armholes and shoulder lines, or the worker's intuition. Second, according to the appearance evaluation of the patterns, the following patterns obtained the highest scores: A pattern 2.5cm away from the B.P point of the waist dart and shoulder dart in the frontal appearance, a pattern of 0.6~0.7cm ease for the front armhole, a pattern with an ease of 1.2cm in the bust and 0.6cm in the waist. As for back appearance, the pattern in which the point of waist dart is 2~3cm from the bust line received the highest score.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.744-757
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• 2021

This study aims to develop a bodice and a jacket in 3D of the late 19th to early 20th based on the pattern drafting book of Gordon S. S., which contains body measurement method and pattern drafting system. The findings of this research are as follows. First, female tops of the late 19th to early 20th century are categorized as outer, jacket, vest, and bodice. Of these, this study highlights the jacket, which can be divided into 4 types: 4 kinds of basic jacket, 2 kinds of riding jacket, bolero jacket, and newmarket jacket. Second, by referring to Gordon's pattern drafting system and book, a bodice was developed in 3D format based on the adherence to the following steps: analysis of the pattern drafting system, pattern drafting, 3D virtual simulation, 3D virtual fitting analysis, and the pattern correction. A bodice pattern corrected by 3D virtual clothing simulation results was proposed. Last, a basic sleeve and collar pattern for a basic jacket was drafted, which was followed by the correction and transformation of the bodice pattern. The jacket developed shows great fit except for the issues at the armhole line and shoulder, which were caused by the unique shape of the sleeves(big sleeve head) of the time. The study attempted to develop the past costumes in 3D, providing the basis for interdisciplinary research in the field of fashion history field and suggesting a new approach for the virtual restoration of costumes. Future studies should target to 3D virtual simulation in accordance to the 3D avatar pose in the developed virtual costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.456-471
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• 2012

This study creates a method with more scientific patterns for use in designing golfwear slacks patterns that better reflect the unique characteristics of body types for elderly women aged 60 or older. This study investigates (when designing human-engineering golfwear slacks for elderly women) the body types of elderly women and design slacks patterns suitable for golf actions in order to design golfwear slacks that show excellence in function and aesthetics as well as for exercise and everyday wear conditions. The study indicated that "total crotch length" was the design element for most considerations when manufacturing golf slacks. A survey on the production of golf slacks for elderly women aged 60 or older showed that the 6 firms participating have not produced an exclusive product for women 60 years of age or older and have only manufactured an enlarged size up to 85. All 6 firms participating replied "No" two the question "Do you produce in consideration of the body types of women over 60 years of age?" Polyester-polyurethane composites were the most widely used (among golf slacks materials) as spring-autumn applications.