• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.25-26
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• 2003

본 연구는 고려중기이후부터 조선시대에 왕이하 서인에 이르기까지 착용하였던 철릭에 대한 것이다. 철릭의 형태는 상하가 연결되고 허리에 주름이 잡혀 있으며, 소매는 단추로 떼었다 붙였다 할 수 있도록 되어 있다. 연구는 문헌자료를 중심으로 조선시대 착장자의 신분과 용도를 살피고, 단국대학교 석주선 기념박물관에 소장된 출토유물 중 측정이 가능한 68점을 실측하여 바느질법과 특징을 분석하였다. (중략)

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.927-934
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• 2014

Today Hanbok, the symbol of our nation's culture, has been preserved as cultural heritage despite natural and social environmental changes over years. This study is analyzing Hanbok which were taken in the National Skills Competition from 2000 to 2013; it presents our traditional stitching methods and clarifies the pride the Hanbok artisans have as inheriting the traditional heritage. Therefore this paper contributes to continuous and proper development of the culture of Hanbok and being loved by many people. The assignments about Hanbok featured in the National Skills Competition were categorized by national and local competition, time required to produce assignments, required amount of fabric, type of stitching, unlined and lined clothes depending on the type of assignment; according to the classification, methods for sewing were analyzed in detail. First, the national tournament presented 12 kinds of sewing techniques; especially hand-sewn stitching method appeared in common. Second, the unlined and lined clothes depending on the type of assignments had applied different sewing methods; double-stitching, flat fell seam, french seam, roll over sewing, blind stitch, right angle blind stitch, decorative saddle stitching, darning, etc. were used. Sewing methods in the 21st century has not changed over the years; the shape of clothes was changed upon trends. Sewing became easier than before by the invention of sewing machine, we should carry on our traditional sewing techniques. Through this analysis on sewing methods of the National Skills Competition, I hope to support competition participants for studying Hanbok and indicate proper sewing techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.7
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• pp.153-161
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• 2007

In 2004, Mal-gun(抹裙) was excavated from a plastered tomb in Seok-nam-dong, In-cheon. This tomb is assumed to be from an upper-class woman. The excavated Mal-gun was used to fill in the empty spaces in coffin, and it was seriously damaged and foxed dark. The Mal-gun is made with thin, loose Sook-cho(숙초), and the width of the fabric is 70cm. Both sides of the crotches are overlapped in front, and the back is opened. The waist straps are detached, leaving a little part to show the width of the straps. The hems of the Mal-gun are sewed straight, without any pleats, except some spaces for the feet to go through. This study compared the Mal-gun of Joseon Dynasty from the documentary records and picture records with the excavated Mal-gun from Seok-nam-dong, In-chceon. Also, actual Mal-gun was manufactured according to the excavated Mal-gun to study the process of manufacturing and the formation. As a result, the excavated Mal-gun has the same form of that shown in Ak-hak-gwae-bum, a documentary record from the early period of Joseon Dynasty.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.161-170
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to find the reasonable plan for the restoration method through the practical repair of excavated costume. The minimal repair only without adding the physical force as far as possible after investigating the state of excavated costume has been progressed in case of excavated costume since it is already degraded and weak due to the characteristics of organic matter at the moment when it is excavated. Moreover, it has been restored as the following course; The restoration has been applied according to the state of excavated costume with the maximum stability by classifying items capable of being restored considering the fabric state of excavated costume. The drawn thread from the weak in strength and the refined thread of the Juasa(simple gauze) or the light degraded silk thread has been used in case of thread for restoration. The cotton fabrics has been used in the fabric of cellulose system, the Juasa or the silk has been used in the silk depending on the kind of fabric in connection with the support fabric, some parts have been dyed with Alnus firma fruit and the persimmon, has been repaired by using the dyed fabric with the clove for the purpose of mothproof-antibacterial treatment. The method to repair has been carried out by classifying according to the state of damage and the way of formation of costume. The needlework method suitable for the part and state of damage by using the basting, the broad-stitching, backstitch, the blind stitch and the hemming stitch in connection with the needlework method for restoration.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.105-116
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• 2021

Pillows are tools that humans have used for a long time to sleep or lie down and rest. It is bedding, and the oldest literature dealing with it is Volume 29 of 'GoryeoDogyeong', which describes embroidered pillows. The oldest relic is the queen's pillow (National Treasure No. 164) excavated from the tomb of King Muryeong, and is in the Gongju National Museum. This study attempts to investigate and reproduce the materials used in traditional pillows Yukgol pillows and pine nut pillows designs are based on literature and artifacts from the Joseon period to modern times. Regarding the research method, after reviewing literature and the relics of traditional pillows, the process of reproducing the traditional Yukgol pillow and the pine nut pillow production method were explained step by step. This study found the plain attitudes in the lives of people who used materials that could be easily gained from their daily lives in rural communities oriented to rice farming never recklessly threw out any piece of cloth or cotton and use it for pillow stuffing or pillow ends. Also, the sophisticated sense of aesthetics that you can see from the pine nut pillows, whose ends were made of remnants from making clothing are exquisitely similar to what was shown in patchwork previously. The biggest meaning of restoring traditional pillows was looking into traditional culture, particularly the ordinary people's living culture. It was very difficult because the researcher had to find materials that were difficult to obtain in this age, the making process was complex, and it took much time; however, it is significant in that the restoration of traditional pillows allows for the succession of tradition.