• Title/Summary/Keyword: 문직물

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Design of the surface characteristics measurement system for objective expression of texture (질감의 객관적 표현을 위한 표면 특성 측정장치의 설계)

  • 문지성;권영화;이주영;강대임
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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    • 1997.11a
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    • pp.16-21
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    • 1997
  • 인간은 접촉을 통해 여러 가지 정보를 받아들이고 있으며 피부와 물체표면과의 접촉에 의한 느낌은 인간의 감성을 유발하는 중요한 요소이다. 이와 같은 질감에 대한 느낌을 측정하여 객관적인 값으로 표현된다면 의류, 종이, 자동차등 대부분의 산업분야에서 제풀을 디자인하는데 응용이 가능할 것이다. 인간이 촉감을 느낄 때의 Mechanism과 촉감에 가장 큰 관계를 가지는 마찰력에 대해 조사하여, 이를 응용한 표면 특성 측정장치를 설계 제작하였다. 또한 인간이 제품의 표면질감을 느낄 때의 주관적인 표현을 직물을 대상으로 하여 설문조사를 통해 대표형용사로 표현하도록 하였다. 이러한 주관적인 질감 표현과 같은 직물을 표면 특성 측정장치를 이용하여 얻어낸 측정값과 상관관계를 조사하여 질감의 객관적인 표현을 연구하는데 이용하였다.

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Study on Image Composition and the Manufacturing Techniques of Bamboo Mudguard with Gilt-bronze Openwork from Cheonmachong Ancient Tomb (천마총 출토 죽제 천마문 금동장식 장니의 화면구도와 제작기법에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Seung Ryul;Shin, Yong Bi;Jung, Won Seob
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.32 no.2
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    • pp.141-154
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    • 2016
  • The gilt-bronze decorated bamboo mudguards with heavenly horse design excavated in 1973 at Cheonma Tomb of Shilla are the unprecedented relics in Korean history as it has its original structure. Although the bamboo mudguards were excavated in not only Cheonma Tomb, but also in Geumgwanchong and Geumryeongchong, all of them remains into pieces. In addition, there are no exact data related with its structure and manufacturing technique. The report deals with the manufacturing technique of the bamboo mudguards with heavenly horse design excavated in Cheonma Tomb through the naked eye's observation, X-Ray Fluorescence, and Transmission X-rays analysis etc. Bamboo mudguards basically have the three divided structure with central-focus structure of a radiation style. And the mudguards consists of Bratticing gilt-bronze, fabric, and bamboo plates together, as ornamental fringe of 4 plates. The surface of the gilt bronze plates was decorated with a variety of workmanship and pendant. Bamboo plates have a waved pattern by using about three hundred bamboo bark. Two types of textiles were mainly found in the textile plates, and the leather were partially found. In order to combine all plates together, gilt-bronze bottonhead, pendant decoration, and ornamental fringe were used. It would be helpful to study bamboo mudguards during 5th-6th centuries in Shilla period and basis investigations of Geumgwanchong and Geumryeongchong excavations.

A Study on Joseon's Luxurious Trends of Costumes and Import of Patterned Textiles in the 17th century (17세기 조선의 복식 사치와 문직물의 수입에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Soo-Hyun;Hong, Na-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.66 no.3
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    • pp.93-106
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    • 2016
  • The aims of this study are to elucidate the relationship between the luxurious trends of costumes and the importation of Ming's patterned textiles in the $17^{th}$ century, and to analyze the similarity between certain Joseon and Ming fabric patterns. After Imjinwaeran[임진왜란] and Byungjahoran[병자호란], more diverse Joseon textile patterns appeared. Generally, wars lead to a shortage of luxury goods and basic commodities. However, $17^{th}$ century Joseon had an abundance of luxury goods, which allowed even some commoners to have clothing made of Chinese silk. That was the result of free trade between the Koreans and the Chinese merchants in Joseon. Ming's merchants followed the Ming's troops into the Korean Peninsula and targeted Koreans to sell their goods, such as fur coats and fur hats. Free trade between Ming and Joseon took place at Junggang [중강] and Donggangjin [동강진]. Joseon imported Chinese textiles there and resold them to Japanese merchants. Some of the Changgi Chung's excavated fabrics might be an evidence of the import from the Ming. These fabrics had the inscription and were similar to Ming fabrics. It can be assumed that trade occurred between Joseon, China, and Japan, as fabrics found in the countries had similar patterns such as flower, bee, and four seasons, which represented longevity. Furthermore, Chinese fabrics might have triggered Joseon's weaving skills to develop, which led to the ability to weave refined and beautiful brocade satin at Sangbang [상방]. According to Uigwe[의궤], Sangbang could weave silk fabrics in the 1620s and 1630s. The improvement of weaving techniques might make it possible to weave some popular patterns at Sangbang.

Origins and Development of the Curved Water Pattern on Fabrics in Joseon Dynasty (조선시대 직물의 곡수문(曲水紋) 유래와 전개 양상)

  • Seo-Young Kang;Boyeon An
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.47 no.2
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    • pp.244-255
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    • 2023
  • Patterns abstractly depicting flowing water with Chinese characters such as gong, wan(man), or wang continued endlessly and curved water patterns began appearing on textiles during the Song Dynasty. Though Song curved water patterns encompassed poetic sentiments such as "falling flowers and flowing water," the meaning faded with time, and these patterns were depicted in backgrounds with flowers added to brocade (Geum-sang-cheom-hwa). During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, combinations of diverse patterns, including flowers, butterflies, dragons, and auspicious treasures became fashionable, rather than the gong- and wan-shaped curved water patterns. Likewise, during the Joseon Dynasty, curved water patterns were preferred as background rather than as primary patterns. They were overlaid with flowers and clouds. The overlaid flower patterns included four-season flower patterns (17th-18th centuries), round flower patterns (19th century), and large flower patterns (20th century), which were identical to flower patterns fashionable at the time and arranged at intervals on complex curved water pattern backgrounds. In contrast, simple Ruyi types were more numerous than the four-Ruyi types fashionable at the time with regard to cloud patterns. Added here were Taiji (great ultimate symbol) or crane patterns, thus seeking to depict diverse auspicious Ruyi such as wish fulfillment and longevity.

종합병원 소아환자복의 사용 실태 및 문제점에 대한 연구

  • 서동애;천종숙;김인숙
    • Proceedings of the ESK Conference
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    • 1996.10a
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    • pp.97-102
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    • 1996
  • 본 연구는 서울의 20개 종합병원과 220명의 소아환자를 대상으로 소아 환자용 환자복의 사 9용 실태 및 문제점을 파악하여소아환자가 보편적으로 착용할 수 있는 소아환자복의 설계를 위한 기초 자료를 수집하고자 실시되었다. 조사결과 종합병원에서 제공하는 소아환자복은 대부분 성인용 환자복과 유사한 형태와 색상을 제공하였다. 소아환자복의 착용 여부 조사결과 환자복은 상의가 하의보다 착용율이 높았으며, 12세 이하에서 연령이 높아질수록 착용율이 높 게나타났다. 현재 사용하고 있는 환자복에 대하여, 치수 불만족과 착탈의 불편이 가장 큰 문 제점으로 지적되었다. 소아환자복에서 중요시되어야 할 점으로 치수, 청결성, 보온성, 촉감, 디자인의 순으로 나타났다. 이상의 연구 결과는 소아환자들의 신체 성장에 따른 체형의 다양 성을 만족시킬 수 있는 환자복의 치수 및 기능성이 향상된 형태의 소아환자복이 필요한 것으로 나타났으며, 소아환자들은 성인용 환자복과는 차별화된 형태및 직물의 특성을 갖춘 새로운 디 자인의 개선이 요구됨을 시사한다.

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Personal Computer Aided Design for Patterns of Dobby Woven Fabrics (퍼스날 컴퓨터에 의한 dobby 직물의 직조무늬 디자연)

  • Ahn Dong Moon;Yang Cheol Kon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.9 no.2
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    • pp.85-97
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    • 1985
  • The purpose of this study is to develop a new method for the visual presentation of weaves and woven patterns of dobby fabrics by using the personal computer briefly. The following results were given through adapting this method to the design for patterns of woven fabrics. 1. Complete weaves were given by computerizing the pegging plan and drafting system. 2. The effect of the combined woven patterns were given by computerizing the one complete weaves, the differently coloured warp threads, and the differently coloured weft threads.

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The Effect of Textile Mechanical Properties on Human Sensibility (직물의 역학적 특성이 질감 감성에 미치는 효과)

  • 손진훈;박현영;문성실;최상섭;강대임
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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    • 1998.11a
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    • pp.230-234
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    • 1998
  • This study developed a test with a high test-retest reliability consisting of 18 items by selecting from Korean adjectives describing tactile sensations. Principal components were extracted by three repeated measurements of 19 different fabrics for underwear. Adjectives such as 'smooth' 'soft' 'sexy' 'comfortable' and 'cozy' were most discriminating between preferred and non-preferred fabrics. The fabrics were analyzed by Kawabata Evaluation System in 16 mechanical properties, then these properties were analyzed by regression analyses as to their relations with human sensation and sensibility. Among the fabrics, the most preferred were made of polyester whereas the least preferred were made of gauze and cotton. Mechanical properties were identified that were related to the most discriminating adjectives such as 'smooth', 'soft', 'sexy,' and 'cozy'.

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The Structure and the Characteristics of the Patterned Textiles in the Joseon Dynasty (조선시대 문직물의 시대별 제직특성)

  • Park, Yoon-Mee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.5
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    • pp.153-165
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    • 2008
  • The methods used in determining the weaving period of the textiles comprises not only radiocarbon dating but also discrimination of the motif and the textile structure. This study surveys the variation of the structure and the characteristics of the patterned textile of the Joseon dynasty to determine the weaving period. The number of twill gradually decreased in the Joseon dynasty while satin weave became more popular and the non-patterned twill almost vanished after 1600 A.D. The patterned plain weave was started to weave from the beginning of the Joseon dynasty but this has been shifted to twill, satin weave, floated weave, or the textiles with combined techniques more than 2 kinds after 1800 A.D. For the twist of threads, the number of the fabrics with Z-twisted thread in the warp and the non-twisted thread in the weft showed peak in 1600 A.D. and gradually decreased afterward. After 1600 A.D., the textile without twist became general trend.The satin weave started to appear with the 5-end satin in the beginning of the Joseon dynasty but the 8-end satin started to appear from the middle of 17th century and got more popularity with time. At the same period, the patterned textile on the ground of the satin weaved with the different techniques from the earlier period started to appear. The twist of the satin in the 1600 A.D. showed similar trends as twill, this general trend resulted from the fact that the non-twisted thread in the weaving became more popular with the time at that period.

The Effects of Laundering Conditions on Calcium Deposition on the Fabric (세척조건이 직물에의 Calcium 침착에 미치는 영향)

  • Moon Young Ae;Kahng He Won;Kim Sung Reon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.5 no.1
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    • pp.9-14
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    • 1981
  • The influence of laundering conditions on calcium deposition on the fabric was studied by repeated laundering the cotton fabric with soap in the hard water of 200 P.P.M. $CaCO_3$. The experimental variables were: 1) soap concentrations ($0.06\%$, $0.13\%$, $0.25\%$), 2) water contents in the fabric after hydroextraction. ($65\%$, $150\%$, $315\%$), 3) builders (Na-EDTA, sodium carbonate, sodium metasilicate), 4) washing cycle (5, 10, 15, 20 cycles). The fabric was washed for 15 minutes at $23\pm1^{\circ}C$ in a washing machine (Model; Gold Star Wp-2005) under the similar conditions with those of home laundering, and rinsed 5 times for 5 minutes. The amount of calcium deposits on the fabric was determined by the EDTA-Back titration method described by Wasserman and Basch. Results of this study were follows: 1) The amount of calcium deposits on the fabric increased with increasing wash cycles. 2) During the rinsing process, residual calcium content on the fabric increased with water content in the fabric after hydroextraction. 3) The amount of calcium deposits on the fabric decreased with the increasing soap concentration above the equivalent amount of calcium ion content in the water. 4) Sequestering agents and alkaline builders influenced the amount of calcium deposits on the fabric. The amount of calcium deposits on the fabric was in the order of sodium metasilicate, sodium carbonate, nonbuilder, and EDTA.

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The study on the penetration and washing features of blood on the surface of fabric (천에 혈액이 침투되는 특성 및 침투된 혈액이 세탁되는 특성 연구)

  • Kim, Yeounjeung;Lim, Jaehee;Hong, Sungwook
    • Analytical Science and Technology
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    • v.30 no.5
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    • pp.270-278
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    • 2017
  • The absorption of blood onto the surfaces of white cotton, polyester, rayon, and nylon fabrics was studied. Different categories of fabrics (woven and knitted) with diverse thickness, were manually folded twice to obtain four fabric layers, and $100{\mu}L$ of human blood was dropped onto the surface of the fabrics. The amount of blood that penetrated the fabric layer and the shape of bloodstain observed on the fabrics were influenced by the chemistry, thickness, and texture of the fabric. The blood bearing fabrics were left to dry for 3 days, washed by hand using tap water, and Lumiscene was then sprayed onto the fabrics to enhance the latent bloodstain for comparison of the shape of the bloodstain before and after washing by hand. The features of the bloodstain after washing varied greatly with the recipient fabrics. Additionally, stronger luminescence was observed at the surface where the blood was deposited compared to the background. However, it was confirmed that physical contact during the washing can deform the original shape of the bloodstain. The effect of the drying time on the bloodstain after hand washing was also studied. $100{\mu}L$ of blood was dropped on the surfaces of the fabrics and dried for 0, 1, 12, 24, 72 h, and 7 days, then washed by hand, before the bloodstain was enhanced with Lumiscene. The results of this experiment indicated that the increased drying time induces stronger chemiluminescence of Lumiscene. However, after drying of the bloodstain for 7 days, the luminescence of the bloodstain was decreased at the blood deposited site and increased around the blood deposited site.