• 복식문화학회:학술대회논문집
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• 복식문화학회 2003년도 정기총회 및 춘계학술발표대회
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• pp.81-81
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• 2003

전통문양은 우리 민족의 집단적인 가치 감정이 표현된 미술로서, 우리 고유의 민족성과 생활양식에 의해 발전되어왔다. 그 중 떡살문양과 창살문양은 조형성과 예술성이 뛰어난 전형적인 전통 문양이다. 본 연구는 우리나라 전통 떡살문양과 창살문양을 현대적 미의식에 맞도록 재구성하여 니트디자인에 응용하고자 하였다. 이는 다양한 니트의 표현기법으로 전통미를 살린 실용적인 복식디자인 개발을 하여 우리 것에 대한 아름다움과 가치를 널리 알리는데 그 목적이 있다. (중략)

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2004년도 제29회 정기총회 및 춘계학술대회
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• pp.34-34
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• 2004

1903년에 설립된 오스트리아 빈공방은 총체개념을 가진 호프만(Josef Hoffman)을 중심으로 1910년경부터 직물파트를 설립하여 왕성한 활동을 하였다. 빈공방 직물디자인을 3단계로 나누어 그 조형성과 영향관계를 살펴보면 1기는 1903년부터 1910년까지로 핵심인물인 모저와 호프만은 세세션과 맥킨토시의 기하차적인 성향과 일본미술의 양식과 모티브에 영향을 받아 자연형태를 기하학적으로 양식화하여 간결한 문양디자인을 하였다. (중략)

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.705-725
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• 2015

A Beoseonbongip is a pouch that holds patterns for making Beoseons. This study aimed to identify the aesthetic and symbolic contents of the embroidery patterns by analyzing the kind, combination types, expression and arrangement types of patterns. In total, 140 Beoseonbongip artifacts, which were mostly made in the Joseon Dynasty, were quantitatively and qualitatively analyzed. The results indicated that about 83% of the total had flower patterns. Various kinds of embroidery patterns used for Beoseonbongips were newly identified. About 73% of the total had different kinds of patterns. Pattern combination types were identified by the kinds of patterns, the number of paired patterns, and the traditional painting styles used. The patterns of Beoseonbongips were expressed schematically more than realistically or abstractly. Beoseonbongips with different patterns on the four triangle tips of the front face and Beoseonbongips with the same/similar patterns on two opposite tips of the front face were observed more than the other types. On the back face, the embroidery patterns were symmetrically arranged, showing various division structures. It was inferred that wishes (e.g., marital harmony, fertility, good health and longevity, happiness, and wealth and fame) were expressed through the symbolic patterns embroidered on the Beoseonbongips. In terms of Korean traditional beauty, the union with nature, the harmony of yin and yang, symmetric balance, and neatness were also emphasized as a esthetic characteristics of Beoseonbongips.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.1-14
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• 1987

The purpose of this study was to compare with the Persian texile design having an out-standing skill in fertile designs with the Byzantine textile dosing being influenced a lot by Christinity and many Oriental factors including Hellenism. These two textile design have some similarities and differences in their patterns. The results of the study were as follows: Similarities ; 1. The Persian traditional animals, hunting scenes and cavaliers are used as the major subject in both patterns. 2. Decorative designs enclosed circular are used in both patterns. Differences ; 1. The Persian textile designs are based on Zoroasterianism, and their animal designs have the Zoroasterian religious meanings. While the Byzantine designs are affected by the Christianity. In the Byantine textile designs, the mythical subjects from ancient Rome and Greece, and the circus scenes are dominent. 3. The Persian textile designs are combative, momentary, dignifed, and realistic pattern, while the Byzantin textile designs are playful, sketchy, humouristic, and evasive pattern. 4. Vivid color effect was found in the Persian textile patterns: however, more refined and gorgeous color was used by the Byzantine textile patterns. Thus, the Persian and the Byzantine textile patterns have interrelations with each other. In general, the Persian textile patterns have affected a great deal on the Byzantine textine textile patterns. They are essentially corelated with each other, but each of them has its own characteristics.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제11권7호
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• pp.142-152
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• 2011

21세기는 디자인의 시대다. 디자인은 세계적으로 다양하게 발전하고 있으며 또 변하고 있다. 그와 동시에 각국에서는 자신의 정체성을 나타내는 디자인에 대한 원형을 찾기 위한 노력이 동시에 진행되고 있다. 본 연구의 목적은 한국 디자인의 원형을 단청 분석을 통해서 찾고자 한다. 단청은 우리 문화의 조형성을 이해하는 중요한 단서이다. 이를 위해 본 논문에서는 전라남도 해남 미황사의 단청을 분석하였다. 대웅전 천정화에 시문된 천불도와 범자문양, 학문양, 모란문양, 연화문양을 디자인적인 측면에서 살펴본바 첫째, 시각적 차원뿐 만아니라 공간적, 상징적, 조형적 차원에서 새로운 문화적 가치를 엿 볼 수 있었다. 둘째, 미황사 단청은 디자인의 형상을 통해 당시의 미학을 고스란히 보여주는 시각적 표현의 결정체였다. 셋째, 단청은 불교에서 유교로 전환한 종교적 의식에 구애받지 않고 우리의 디자인 원형은 자연스럽게 이어져 오고 있음을 보여주고 있다. 본 연구를 통하여 단청은 우리의 삶을 묻어나게 하는 미의 원형으로서 존재하며 우리 민족의 의식을 연결하는 혼합체라는 것을 보여주었다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.81-96
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• 2019

The study intends to seek the creative ideas that can satisfy the needs of individual consumers by rediscovering the modern meaning and the artistic value of geometric ornaments engraved on the backside of Danyugyung, which is a traditional Korean pattern. In terms of the study method, the symbolic meaning and formative characteristics of Danyugyung were determined, and the form of its pattern and the geometric characteristics were analyzed. Based on this, Photoshop and illustrations were used to apply the shapes of Danyugyung and internal patterns to the textile designs, and the results are as follows. Firstly, it was found that Danyugyung was associated with the bronze mirror, which was used from the Bronze Age to the Early Iron Age, and was the product of artistic activities and an object and acted as a shamanistic and authoritative symbol of the ruling parties, which were responsible for the acts related to the spiritual world. Secondly, it was discovered that forms of Danyugyung were classified into Jomungyung and Semungyung in accordance with Forms of Danyugyung (造飾), and the formative features of the geometric ornaments that were engraved in great detail on the backside could be found in the images which change according to the form of the inner patterns. Thirdly, with regard to the development of the textile designs utilizing the shape and inner patterns of Danyugyung based on the formative features, it was could discover that the simple shape of Danyugyung presented a value which can be applied as a unique design factor delivering a visual rhythm by attempting to create various harmonies overlapping lines engraved on the inner patterns and the shapes of Danyugyung. Based on the above-mentioned outcomes, the possibility was confirmed that Danyugyung can be used as a novel motif and as a standard unit of patterns for textile design. With future studies, I would like to utilize the unique and diverse images as pattern motif for textile design.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제55권1호
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• pp.133-150
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• 2022

21세기는 '문화경쟁' 시대라고 말해도 과언은 아니다. 국제화 시대를 살아가고 있는 오늘날 우리는 '자국의 정체성'을 문화에서 찾으려 한다. '문화'란 그 민족이 살아온 발자취를 고스란히 담고 있는 자국민의 독특한 민족성을 말한다. 세계는 하나의 다차원적인 지구로 변해가는 이 시점에서 민족적 고유성과 독창적 조형성을 담은 전통 문양은 자국민을 대표하는 브랜드다. 프랑스의 명품 브랜드 고야드 문양은 수작업 과정에서 자연스럽게 생성된 Y자형 패턴을 볼 수 있다. 이 문양은 160년이 지난 오늘날 프랑스를 대표하는 기업 브랜드로 세계적인 명성을 자랑한다. 반면 저소득국가의 경우 직물을 직조하는 과정에서 자연스럽게 만들어진 문양은 민족적 고유한 미의식으로 계승되어 지구촌 사람들로부터 사랑받고 있다. 이처럼 다차원적인 세계를 살아가는 지구촌 사람들은 자국의 문화를 계승하려는 의지와 타민족의 고유한 문화를 보존하려는 이른바 '지구는 하나라는 시각(One Planet Perspective)' 프레임 워크를 실현하고자 한다. 예를 들어 콜롬비아의 '와유 부족'은 2013년 식수난으로 국제 구호기구들이 이들을 찾아가 구호품을 전달하는 과정에서 핸드메이드 제품인 '모칠라백'을 발견하게 된다. 이것이 계기가 되어 유럽과 한국에서도 이를 수입하여 판매를 결정한 것은 '와유 부족'의 생계에 도움을 주고자 함이다. 또한 소수 부족의 전통문화 속에서 천 년 동안 진화해 온 미적·문화적 가치는 유네스코에 등재되어 세계적으로 보존되고 있다. '문화란 하루아침'에 형성된 것이 아니라 적어도 100년 이상 지속되면서 그 시대의 트렌드에 적용된 문양은 기업을 대표하는 브랜드다. 또한 나아가 국가 정체성을 반영한 문양은 민족적 고유한 미의식으로 계승되기도 한다. 우리는 민족적 고유한 미의식을 계승하고 있으나 이를 현대적인 추세에 맞게 창의적이고 심미적으로 재해석한 실용적 가치를 보여주는 전통 문양 브랜드는 없다. 이에 본연구는 세계의 문양 브랜드 전략을 파악하고 한국 기업 브랜드의 문제점을 제시하고자 한다.

• 복식
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• 제57권10호
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.749-759
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• 2007

As the traditional style is treated as one of the important themes in fashion recently, how to apply the formative character in Korean and Japanese traditional dress to modern fashion is searched through actual analysis of photograph material, Both design formative elements were confirmed by clothing and fashion department majors through visual data so that 20 pieces of them were selected as final analysis object. Korean traditional dress form in modern fashion emphasizes curvaceousness as plane division. On the other hand, that of Japanese shows straight line, layered, belt, big look through up & down connection style. Color in Korean traditional dress prefers white and original color and modern fashion displays the natural beauty through harmony of similar colors ; that of Japanese based on natural color such as persimmon color cherishes natural beauty and implicit moderation showing harmony of various original color with brilliance and neutral color. While texture in Korean traditional dress was fine and exquisite, that of Japanese preferred coarse and tactile ones. In motif, Korea was natural and geometric but Japanese variously used complex and geometric ones. Likewise, the result suggests that the formative character in Korean and Japanese modern fashion affects the modern dress format as new aesthetic sense and takes on more complicated and subtle aspect in basic form, not just use so far.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.15-25
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• 2008

Today, each country's cultural communications are carried briskly and Japan already showed a new trend of world fashion by accepting its own design with aesthetic sense to western Europe in 1970s and built the new area of Japanese fashion. This special traditional aesthetic sense, formed by social, cultural, geographic and religious conditions, is roughly divided into decorated and undecorated beauty; decorated one means splendidness, coquetry, exaggeration and was represented ornamental modification of nature object in dress pattern as ornamental expression means; undecorated one, based on Zen-thought, means simplicity, purity, ugliness and Japan gave rise to the new beauty by receiving and adapting continental culture to its culture openly and creating and developing its own beauty. This study aims to examine the aesthetic sense shown in Japanese traditional dress and understand how traditional beauty is used and applied to modern fashion and analyze the diversity of Japanese traditional aesthetic sense shown in modern fashion. For material analysis, total 220 were collected of photograph related to formative element existence according to aesthetic sense shown in Japanese traditional fashion design using literature research and visual data. The existences of Japanese image among them were confirmed by clothing and fashion department majors so that 7 pieces of which were selected as final analysis object. Likewise, the result suggests that Japanese traditional aesthetic sense creates global design based on folk element-used identity as well as new beauty by adapting continental culture to its culture openly and producing and developing its own creative beauty.