• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.638-647
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to discover the interrelationship between modern costumes and Seung-Hee Choi's dancing costumes in 1930s. Seung-Hee Choi, who was a dancing pioneer in Korea, introduced the modern dancing costumes for the first time in Korea. The results are as followed ; First, we can find Eroticism in Choi's dancing dress. Choi's dancing costume had used gold thread, silver thread, spangle, see-through and a half-naked body clothing that decorated with beads and cords. It is similar to modern costumes in ubjet mtter, silhouette, design, and so on. Second, the influence of Futurism was in her dancing costumes, that is, it represented asymmetry designs and rectilineal figures. Third, not only beauty but also a Functionalism was expressed in her dancing costumes. Functional beauty was shown through bias cut, pleats, slit, and so on.

• 복식
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• 제53권1호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2003

This study as one of a series of systematic studies about dancing costumes will compare the costumes of the middle age with their normal style of dress. In brief, this study wants people to know about middle a9e dancing costumes and understand the culture in the middle ages. It was found that people's everyday clothes in the middle age such as Surcot. Surcot-ouvert, Pourpoint, Houppelande were used as dancing costumes. They were, however. changed from the public's clothes which were tight and long. Rather than wearing costume over others. dancers wore costumes which had slits on skirt or sleeves to increase motion. With the Wild Man of the Wood's which only nobles used for their dancing costumes. costumers highlighted the beauty of human body There were various costume materials used in the middle ages like silk. cotton fabrics, linen or brocade. These materials were used for Surcot and Pourpoint as dancing costumes. The naturalness of nature or geometric patterns also was expressed on the costumes. Further about those patterns, because the development of stained glass, vivid colors were used especially red, light green, blue etc. As for the hair styles used, dancers let their hair down and put a jeweled crown over their hair. In summation. dancers wore the same clothes that normal People did, but the costumes were different depending on social status and gender. The costumes of ordinary people's were based upon ordinary clothes that moved and emphasized the dynamic motion. On the other side, the court dancers' costumes were very fancy. symbolizing a measurement of nobles' from wealth and authority. as well as an expression of a sense of beauty, The main features of middle ages follows. : To emphasize vitality, there were long slits on the side of skirt. Hair decorations and jewels are more used than in the ancient age's. To hide a dancer's social status. they could use a mask. Wild Man of the Wood's was used for the body makeup. All these features of the dancing costumes must contribute to the progress of the dance in the middle age's.

• 복식
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• 제60권9호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2010

Fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier incorporated his own boundless and unique artistic Into his design of dance costumes, presenting an unobstructed imaginary world that was filled with freedom, which is no less than one would expect from the one-time enfant t${\'{e}}$rrible of Paris fashion. This creativity of Gaultier was made possible only through the fantastic partnership he formed with the French modern dancer, R${\'{e}}$gine Chopinot. Gaultier and Chopinot shared a deep-rooted sympathy that enabled their own artistic worlds to fully mingle and cross over, resulting in a doubled synergy of their talent and their fame. This study analyzed 11 dancing costumes created through the collaborated efforts of those two enfants t${\'{e}}$rribles, one from the fashion industry and the other from the world of dance. The following are the results of my analysis. Gaultier's dance costumes served as a artistic venue for experimenting with a number of creative inspirations lurking in his mind, which were sometimes expressed in pr${\^{e}}$t-${\`{a}}$-porter collections. Instead of the decorative and expressive features of conventional dance costumes, his was the revival of the dancer's persona as a human being, ablaze with individuality and uniqueness. He pointed out that there is no good in the distorted turturro's fixed point of view, and the great joy of an opposing way of thinking that overturned the established. Leotard material was used as a second skin by transforming it into various styles and delivering his message. In addition, obscene and sexual expressions were delivered in a direct narrative. His eccentric ideas provided entertainment while showing his oppositional way of thinking. In the dance, the effect of the costumes was doubled by the use of cumbersome and exaggerated accessories, which is generally forbidden in modern dance.

• 복식
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• 제55권4호
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• pp.124-137
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• 2005

Foreign culture, introduced by cultural exchange, was modified and accepted into a new form and value system. Culture speaks for the characters of the period, so it is presented by the mutual actions of many factors affecting culture. Religion is the essence of human life and the source of ideas about life, the universe and existence, so they become hidden inside of the structure of culture. Dancing costumes present the process of cultural modification and acceptance more vividly than general costumes. This research shows that, among foreign cultures, it is Buddhism that most influenced Chinese dancing costume. Taoism was the Chinese native religion that played an oppositional role against Buddhism. Taoism was hidden in Chinese dancing costume in every age. Chinese dancing costume changed many times due to the import of exotic styles such as Buddhism that partially replaced the Taoistic tradition. Therefore, it is confirmed that the process of cultural importation of exotic style was different according to the social, historical, and cultural backgrounds of China during the period from the Han to the Sui and Tang dynasties.

• 복식
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• 제57권7호
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• pp.84-97
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• 2007

Dancing with weapons existed spontaneously when war and hunting were common, and sword dancing, as a dance for banquets, developed and changed in various forms. In Korea, sword dancing was performed from the Three Dynasty Period, and in Joseon Dynasty, it was performed as court ceremony. The origin of the sword dancing, that has been performed from the Joseon Dynasty until now, and costumes for sword dancing isn't accurate. The purpose of this study is to analyze the sword dancing costume of China, Korea's neighboring country, and that of Korea in the same period, and to find out the process of wearing military uniform: Jun-mo, Jeo-go-ri, Chi-ma, Gwae-ja, and Jun-dae, being settled as the sword dancing costumes of Korea in late Joseon Dynasty. In China, sword dancing became famous in Han Dynasty, and in Tang Dynasty, it was the meridian of sword dancing with the most magnificent form. After the Song Dynasty, the sword dancing fades away. In Korea, the sword dancing started as a mask dancing of children that Hwa-rang(bravery youth) in Shilla Dynasty started. After the Unified Shiila Period, the sword dancing of Tang Dynasty spread to Korea, with active interchange between the two countries. After the Corea Dynasty, the mask dancing of children faded and the sword dancing of Tang Dynasty changes into Korean form. It was incorporated into the court ceremony after the mid-period of Joseon Dynasty, and the costumes were settled as the military uniform, which are Gwae-ja, and Jun-dae on top of Chi-ma, and Jeo-go-ri, and Jun-moon the head.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.89-96
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• 2003

The court dancing suit, so-called "JeongJae(呈才) suit," has been worn by court dancers. Since the court dancing suits in the age of the ancient Three Kingdoms and Koryo Dynasty have already been studied previously, this study discussed the change of dancing suit styles created in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty, such as GaInJeonMok-Dan(佳人剪牧丹)ㆍGoGuRyeo-Mu(高句麗舞)ㆍGongMak-Mu(公莫舞)ㆍManSuMu(萬壽舞), and the thought of Yin-Yang and five elements(陰陽五行思想) that the colors of the court dancing suits imply. The purpose of this study is to understand the thoughts contained in the ancient suits as well as their styles in order to inherit and uphold our traditional culture properly. properly.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.886-898
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• 2013

This study explores the types, shapes and changes of the court dance garments of mudong[child court dancer] and yeoryeong[female court dancer] for court dances such as Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang, and Choehwamu, and the arrangement of colors in their garments. The conclusion of the study is as follows: First, the type of garments of mudong varied according to the type of dance, role of mudong and passage of time. In all four jeongjae's, hongpo[red robe] and baekjilheukseonjungdaneui[white under garment trimmed in black] were commonly found. Second, the dress of yeoryeong in the Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang and Choehwamu was that of other yeoryeong, which was basically comprised of hwagwan[flower headdress], hwangchosam[yellow robe], hongchosang[red skirt] and sudae[embroidered belt]. Third, the color schemes of the court dance garments used in Jangsaengboyeonjimu, Yeonbaekbokjimu, Jesuchang and Choehwamu revealed that the color arrangement of sangsaeng [mutual generation] of the Ohaeng[Five Elements] scheme were favored in the garments of mudong and yeoryeong. The dress of mudong is characterized by sangsaeng between top and bottom, and between total and part, while the color scheme of the outer and inner was sanggeuk[mutual overcoming]. As for yeoryeong, the color arrangement was of sangsaeng in top and bottom, outer and inner, and total and part, but in the five-colored hansam[sleeve extension], both sangsaeng and sanggeuk were found.

• 복식
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• 제60권10호
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• pp.133-145
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• 2010

The study used four basic formats classified based on the four principles on costumes discussed in the paper 'Human Beings and Arts Phenomena' by Oskar Schlemmer who studied the relationships between stage space and the human body as an analysis tool with regard to analyses on the abstraction of human body in contemporary dance costume. Abstraction of human body expressed in costume for contemporary dance is as follows: Expansions caused by unclear boundary between spaces and costumes, and the principles of three-dimensional abstract spaces based on a geometric cube change heads, trunks, arms and legs to achieve expansions. Similar mechanical shape is a type of shape made in a succession of functional principles of human body in relationships with spaces. As mechanical mechanism is added to the geometric transformation of a specific part of human body, mechanicalness is contained in it. Motion organisms are geometric simplification of moving traces in a space based on conversion into mechanical organisms based on principles of motion, and as mechanical rotation, consecutive speed caused by refraction and directionality are suggested, mobility is achieved. Immaterial shape is based on change into a metaphysical form, and it is converted into animals, plants or a third life that symbolize body parts. It has metaphysical significance in each body part and extends sensibility. As a result of the study, development into abstract succession and a techno art mode has been confirmed. Combination of geometric cubic figures with the organic human body and configuration of the human body pursued by Oskar Schlemmer's geometric abstraction through the proactive accommodation of mechanical aesthetics has been succeeded and expressed in the contemporary dance costumes.

• 트랜스-
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• 제8권
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• pp.95-127
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• 2020

본 연구는 태극권 움직임에서 신체의 이완방법을 개발하기 위해 바티니에프 기본원리를 적용하여 태극권 움직임의 원리를 분석하였다. 이 연구과정을 통해 태극권과 바티니에프의 신체 움직임이 일맥상통한다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 첫째, 태극권과 바티니에프의 신체 움직임 철학 각도에서 살펴보면 두 기법의 궁극적인 목표는 모두 정신과 신체의 통합이다. 즉 동양의 심신일원론(心身一元論)과 서양의 신체자각(Body Awareness)이 일맥상통하였다. 둘째, 바티니에프가 제시한 호흡지지의 측면에서 살펴보면 두 기법은 모두 호흡을 통해 신체를 자연스럽게 움직이게 하고 각 부위를 이완시킨다. 태극권에서 기(氣)는 생명의 바탕이며 신(身)의 힘이다. 즉, 태극권의 호흡은 몸과 마음(Body- Mind)을 소통, 조화, 융화시킬 수 있는 것이다. 다시 말해서 태극권의 호흡은 정신적인 융합을 통하여 이루어지며 움직임에 영향을 주었다. 바티니에프의 호흡지지도 마찬가지다. 바티니에프의 호흡은 모든 관점에서 움직임에 영향을 주고 호흡은 몸의 내부와 외부의 형태를 모두 변화시킨다고 한다. 셋째, 바티니에프가 제시한 중심부지지의 측면에서 살펴보면 두 기법은 모두 중심을 강조하였다. 중심 지지를 의식하면서 움직이면 몸의 표면적인 근육보다는 좀 더 깊은 근육을 사용할 수 있으며 이를 통해 강하고 유연한 움직임을 가능하게 하였다. 태극권의 기침단전(氣沉丹田)은 의식적으로 복식호흡을 사용하고 힘을 중심으로 모은다. 이러한 운동을 할 때 중심은 더 안정되고 호흡 역시 순조로워진다. 넷째, 바티니에프 기본원리에서 제시한 회전적 요인의 측면에서 살펴보면 모두 회전을 사용한 움직임을 통해 신체 이완이라는 목적을 이루게 된다. 바티니에프의 회전적 요인은 축을 중심으로 3차원적으로 움직이는 관절운동이라는 특성을 인지함으로써 동작을 더욱 쉽게 하고 자유롭게 할 수 있었다. 태극권도 마찬가지다. 태극권은 원형과 나선형(Spiral Movement)의 움직임을 통해서 공간을 최대한 접근하고 매끄럽게 흐름을 전환해서 이완이라는 목적을 이루게 되었다. 다섯 번째, 코헨(Bonnie Bainbridge Cohen)의 Body-Mind Centering Work 이론을 토대로 바티네에프가 정립한 발달 모형의 각도에서 살펴보면 태극권의 움직임의 발전과정과 발달 모형에서 제시한의 호흡, 중심-말초부 연결 / 중앙 반사, 머리- 꼬리뼈 연결 / 척추의 움직임, 상체-하체 연결 / 상응하는 움직임, 신체의 반쪽 연결 / 동종 편측 연결, 교차 측면 연결 / 대측 연결 모두 일맥상통함을 알 수 있었다. 즉 태극권은 호흡을 통해 에너지를 중심으로 모으고, 요추를 통해 상체와 하체를 연결하며 움직임이 발전할 때 동종 편측 연결뿐만 아니라 교차 측면 연결을 할 수 있다. 이러한 연구를 통해 무용의 움직임을 자연스럽게 표현하고, 신체 자각을 토대로 중심축과 관절, 및 균형을 이용한 신체의 움직임 원리를 분석해낼 수 있었다.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제35호
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• pp.93-123
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• 2017

한국 민속춤의 정수인 승무는 춤의 연원이나 유래, 춤의 명칭과 복식을 볼 때 불교와 깊은 영향관계를 가지고 오랜 세월 변화 발전되어 온 춤이다. 현재 주로 추어지고 있는 승무는 장삼춤과 북춤의 구성으로 고착되어 있으나, 일제강점기의 승무는 그 역사성과 다양한 유래설 만큼이나 여러 양상의 승무를 유추해 볼 수 있다. 1940년을 전후해서 해주권번의 사범이었던 장양선은 양소운을 통해 <성인인상무>를 작품화했다. 2010년 '양소운 추모공연'에서 추어진 <성인인상무>의 영상을 분석해 본 결과, 첫째, 이 춤은 춤의 제목에서 전달하고자 하는 주제가 뚜렷하고, 승무의 유래설 중에서 불제자가 수도 중에 번뇌하고 타락했다가 다시 불교에 회귀한다는 기원설을 내포하고 있음을 확인할 수 있다. 둘째, 장삼춤 - 북놀이 - 바라춤 - 허튼춤 - 회심곡 - 귀의로 이어지는 과정은 작품의 주제의식을 순차적으로 잘 보여주고 있었다. 셋째, 불교의식무용인 바라무, 민속적 특징인 개성과 즉흥성이 강한 허튼춤, 불교음악인 회심곡 등 내용과 그 전개에 따라 여러 표현방법이 결합한 형식이었다. 이는 20세기 초 승무를 무대화 내지는 작품화하고자 했던 흐름을 잘 반영하고 있음을 알 수 있었다. <성인인상무>는 현재 장삼춤과 북춤만의 장대한 형식의 승무와 비교했을 때, 내용면에서는 본래 승무가 담고자 했던 의미를 살펴볼 수 있었고, 형식적인 측면에서는 악가무와 극적 요소가 결합된 다양성을 되돌아보게 한다. 미래지향적으로 발전할 수 있는 승무를 위해 많은 시사점을 제시하고 있다는 점에서 본 연구의 의의가 있다고 하겠다.