• 복식
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• 제47권
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• pp.125-142
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• 1999

Dancing along with mankind has existed in various ways form old age to the present. This dancing combined with artistic meaning is called the art of dancing. This study is mainly about the functions decorations and expressions of dancing costume and the claracteristics of the costumes by the 20th century designers Leon bakst Oskar Schlemer Pablo Picasso. The dancing costume were not so much different from those of the public from old age to middle age. In 18th and 19th centuries the length of the cotstumes become short from the knee to the thigh. The functions have much to do with the development of dancing for example the appearance of toeshoes. The costumes are designed not to prevent the movements of dancers smooth line in old age and ladylike vend high-blown line in the 18th and 19th centuries. Cotton and hemp textiles are turning into the transparent forms such as lace and gauge. The personal ornaments earings and necklaces have change into the pattern with wings and tassels. The dancing costumes of Leon Bakst Oskar Schlemer and Pablo Picasso are designed after the due consideration of body shape. Bakst focused on the beauty of smooth lines with splendid colors and decorations. Schlemer analyzed the body abstractly and metaphysically and expressed it with detaile and simple lines. Picasso emphasized cubic forms with cubism and expressed the characteristics of costumes with clear colors and smooth curved line. Bakst Schlemer and Picasso made the early 20th century the age of functional dancing costumes putting a light on the concept of space and foundation for the modern dancing costumes.

• 복식
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• 제58권6호
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• pp.158-171
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• 2008

The purpose of the study was to examine how changes of women's sexual identity and gender role were expressed in designs of dance costumes by analyzing costumes used in creative dance works. Related articles, dance magazines, Internet information and dance costumes were used for the analysis of various performance cases to express persona and animus of a woman. The results of the study were as follows: 1. As a woman's role, persona, has recently changed into active propensity, dance directors have come to prefer bold and daring image of female dancer to strongly express animus, the masculine inclination of a woman. 2. Female dancers' costumes were frequently associated with daring body exposure such as body painting on half-naked body, to reflect the above and a number of female dancers dressed daringly in masculine style trom head to toe. Also, pants or hot pants instead of skirt were frequently used as dance costumes to symbolize animus. In addition, colors in dance costumes became vivid and bold in comparison to the simple and soft colors used in the past.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.404-418
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• 2002

The pattern of a dance had changed and made a progress delicately according to the change of the myth, religion, and civilization. One genre which had experienced the change for the dance is a mask dance. This dance started from wishes to adore spirit or god with imitated masks of native animals and desire to identify with nature. After the middle ages, it finally became to approach to the artistic state. In that dance, there was used a role of the head of the family which was strongly adapted to the shape of the mask as performing casts After studying symbolic characteristics of the mask dancing, we could conclude these as fol1ows.: First, Masks symbolized the totemism that adores spirit or god. This kind of whole masks were consistently used. Second, Mask was worn for expressing a dancer's cast well. This function of performing cast was in the primitive ages. However at the age which was characterized as the age of the art, the expression of using a mask became various. Third, Mask was mostly related to the head of the family and appeared with the desire to be others not themselves. Since the middle ages, this tendency continued to the modern dance. Now we can see this type at the carnival. The mask was not only an effective means of dance but also an expression of totemism, performing cast, and the head of the family. Therefore it contributed to the growth of the dance a lot.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.353-367
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• 2019

These days, costumes of Korean creative dancing performances have been changed to be modernized and to be out of traditional regulation, as the representation of the Korean styles were replaced by other props and art devices. In this article, we have applied the emotions expressed in Jin-Yi Hwang's sijos (Korean traditional poems), to Korean creative dancing costumes in modern style. chose three typical sijos from her six pieces, titled "Green mountain is like what I've meant", "To Byeokgyesoo in Cheongsan-ri" and "Dongjibam ginaginbam". In brief, Jin-Yi Hwang expressed her "everlasting love and emptiness", "temptative conciliation" and "eager waiting" these three sijos, respectively. The character of Jin-Yi Hwang was shown in many TV soap operas and films, and the costumes were either much modernized, and not accurately based on the sijos she had written. Thus, we designed, made flat sketched, and fabricated three Korean creative dancing costumes from the three sijos, listed. We tried to highlight the aesthetic impression and the activeness of the dancing costumes, using both traditional and modern Korean fabrics. Since Korean dance costumes had not yet been inspired from Jin-Yi Hwang's sijos, we discussed the importance of the fabric items, as well as the visual, auditory, and tactile characteristics of the costumes and dancers to emphasize Jin-Yi Hwang's expressed emotions.

• 복식
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• 제52권7호
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• pp.123-138
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• 2002

This study as one of a series of systematic studies about dancing costumes will compare the costumes of the 16th. 17th century with their normal style of dress. In brief. this study wants people to know about 16th, 17th century court dancing costumes and to understand the culture in the 16th.17th century. From the comparison between the court's dancing costume and the people's clothes, we could get the conclusion as follows. First, pourpoint. chemis, gown, chausses, etc. that people wore were used for the court's dancing costume. While people Pursued the beauty with the ample silhouette. there were used wrinkles. slits. and tailored oblique line-clothes that gave vitality. Second, silk. linen. brocade. etc. that were used for people's chemises were used for the dancing costume. The good quality and beautiful colors of the dancing costume. however. excelled than of the brilliant court's clothes and the people's clothes. Third. the hair style of dancers were very colorful. For example, there were many kinds of hats and furs, corals, etc. that were attached to them on the most of the long curly hair. In summary, for the court's dancing costume, the same type of clothes was used like the people's clothes. There, however, were differences. The slits, tailored oblique line-clothes and shortened skirt gave the activity. There were many decorations symbolizing the nobles' wealth and Power. Especially the use of the decoration of hair and other stake properties was an effective means for expression. The use of personified masks also contributed to the development of the court dance.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제39호
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• pp.863-901
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• 2019

본고는 고대 서역의 석국(石國. Chach)의 민족무용인 <자지무>가 중원에 전파된 후 <쌍자지> 혹은 <굴자지>로 변용된 뒤 당송대에 고려에 유입되어 궁중의 당악정재 <연화대>로 변용된 아시아 전통춤의 전파 과정을 토대로 한 공연문화콘텐츠의 구축 사례를 돌이켜 고찰하였다. 본 프로젝트를 위해 서역, 중국, 한국의 고대 무용 전파와 관련된 광범위한 사료를 분석하는 사전 연구를 수행하였다. 나아가 사료의 한계를 극복하기 위해 다양한 경로를 통해 관련 도상, 동영상, 음원 자료들을 수집하여 공연 제작에 반영하였다. 사전 연구를 기반으로 각 분야 전문인력과의 협업을 통해 음악, 무용, 복식의 재구를 시도하고 그 결과를 공연으로 마무리한 제작 과정을 기술하였다. 나아가 프로젝트의 성과와 향후 활용방안을 제안하였다. 고증사료와 참여인력의 부족에 따른 한계에도 불구하고 고대 아시아 전통춤의 전파와 변용을 주제로 시도한 국내외 최초의 전통문화콘텐츠 구축 사례인 점에서 의의를 찾을 수 있다

• 복식
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• 제57권5호
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• pp.33-44
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the roles and costume of Sodong as shown in the illustration of Choseon Delegation to Japan. Results of the study can be described as below. First, as shown in the illustration, Sodong played roles as Tongin and dancer. As Tongin, Sodong provided services or made errands for his seniors. In the other role, while, Sodong danced to comfort his seniors and show dances of Choseon to Japanese people. Second, Sodong wore Kwaecha over Sochangeui throughout his march with the delegation as Tongin. This is probably because the two clothes made him feel convenient and easily active. In both 1700s and 1800s, meanwhile, Sodong also wore Jikryeong and Cheolik. Third, Sodong wore Kwaecha over Sochangeui, or Danryeong and Nansam all the time when he navigated together with the delegation. When passing through Tsusima into the Japanese mainland, which meant starting international exchanges between Choseon and Japan, Sodong sticked to formality to the utmost by wearing Danryeong and Nansam. Fourth, Sodong wore Kwaecha over Sochangeui when he performed as dancer. The two clothes were also worn by Mudong during outdoor banquets in Choseon at that time. In addition, it is thought that Sodong wore Jikryeong, Danryeong and Nansam like when he marched or navigated together with Choseon Delegation.

• 복식
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• 제61권6호
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• pp.15-37
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• 2011

This study is on dancing dresses of the costumes of Gum-Mu(劍舞, sword dance) in southern, central, and northern region of Korea, focusing on the origin, characteristics and the way of dance. The reason why the Gum-Mu is full of local color is that royal Korean Gisaeng(妓生) and local Gisaeng returned to their hometown and propagated this dance to each regional Kyobang. They combined court sword with each local dance and music and formed the present style of regional Gum-Mu. Dance and music native to area, which has formed today's regional Gum-Mu. The composition of current dancing costume of the sword dance is Jeogori, Chima, Jeondae(戰帶), Jeonrib(戰笠), Kwaeja(快子) Also, The complement colors harmonizing with color of Yin-Yang & Five Elements. which are yellow, blue, white, red, and black, are usually used. And the masculinity in dance were expressed withmore use of blue, and red in the opposite but if a sword dance takes on masculine character, blue color is more used, if feminie character, reddish colors, such as pink and red, are used. Thus, JinJu, Honam, Haeju, Pyeongyang dancing Suit of Gum-Mu feature blue color, Tongyeong, Kyeonggi, Court(seoul)dancing Suit of Gum-Mu feature reddish color.

• 복식
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• 제50권5호
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• pp.41-52
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• 2000

During the 3C(B.C.) and 2C(A.D.), there were large influx of variety of arts to Jin and Han dynasty such as music, dancing, and at performing from neighboring countries. It made a tremendous impact on the development of dancing an in Han dynasty. On the other hand, Kokurye people had also enjoyed their own singing and dancing culture (styles) for a long time. Han and Kokurye's dancing costumes were studied based on artifacts (data) such as wall paintings, clay doll, and other small paintings all from tombs in Han and Kokurye. A similarity was found between two dynasties' dancing costume, since both had tong sleeve dresses. However, the further detailed study showed that one can't simply say both are in the same style. For example, the dress in Han dynasty had a long length style of coat(深衣) covering all the way to feet, and there were round neckline coat(團領) and long Jacket(장유). In contrast, that of Kokurye had a shorter length in coat(直領) covering only up to calf of the leg or long jacket(장유).

• 복식
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• 제49권
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• pp.173-184
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• 1999

In the Tan dynasty it cultural style was very international and its culture actively absorbed other foreign culture. Moreover it was the time when the concept of barbarians(胡, hu) was applied widely and its culture got the tremendous influence from other foreign culture The influence from the barbarians were tremendous in Tang dynasty so that among the ten elements of the Sipbuak(十部樂) in Tang period only ChungSangAk(淸商樂, Qingshangyue) and YenAk(燕樂, Yenyue) were from their own Chinese culture(漢, Han). I wanted to discuss the influences of the Barbarians cultures on the dancing costumes in Tang period for it appeared to me that especially the dancing costume with the introduction of new foreign dances and their distinct styles in costumes would make a great impact on the dressing styles in Tang dynasty On the dancing costumes in tang dynasty we dan find the strong influences by the Barbarian style(胡風, hufeng), and even the authentic Chinese dressing styles of han period appear to be change quite a bit.