• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.143-148
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• 2008

Variations of the seventeen amino acids(aspartic acid, threonine, serine, glutamic acid, proline, glycine, alanine, cystein, valine, methionine, isoleucine, leucine, tyrosine, phenylalanine, histidine, lysine, arginine) were analyzed in human hair sample by amino acid auto analyzer(AAA). The effect of bleaching and permanent wave manipulation on the amino acid composition of hair were investigated. Hair samples were collected from 10 males in their thirties. Hair samples were treated with 10 mL of 6 N hydrochloric acid at $110^{\circ}C$ for 24 h and analysed by AAA. The results showed that the amino acid content of normal hair(73.9%) decreased to 71.5% and 69.3% after bleaching and permanent wave treatment, respectively. Furthermore, mean contents of lysine and tyrosine in amino acids showed obviously decreased about 25% by permanent wave and bleaching treatment. On the other hand, serine, cystein, leucine and histidine were not changed.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.46 no.2
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• pp.89-103
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• 2020

A frizz hair is referred to the fly-away hairs that have become bulky or deviated from the regular hair and the cause of that is not clear known. The internal lipids are related to the physical properties of hair such as elasticity and tensile strength and interracial studies have previously conducted to relate the lipid mass and Afrikaan hair, which has a lot of frizzy hair. Although washing hair is the only way to control the hair loss without damage of hair surface, the number of washing and lipid loss are not linearly correlated. In this study, the amount of lipid hair was analyzed by washing the hair with a few different types of shampoos containing various conditioning polymers and oils of different polarities. The results confirmed that the higher the polarity of the oil, the higher the lipid content. This method was applied to Indian frizzy hair to evaluate the degree of frizziness and found that the frizzy volume was more severe for a hair with less lipids. On the other hand, the frizzy hair volume of fly-away hairs was observed more broadly for the hairs with higher lipid contents. In addition, the friction on the surface of the hair did not differ due to the oil treatment. Taken together, it was concluded that hair frizzing was affected by the amount of lipids in the hair rather than by the adhesion between the oils. Thus, this study suggests that controlling the lipid contents in hair may be an important solution in the development of hair anti-frizzy technology.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.33-39
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• 2010

Recently. dyeing by harmless natural materials has received much attention due to the side-effects occurred from dyeing by synthetic dyes. In this study, we examined the effect of extracts of Pueraria thunbergiana (P. thunbergiana) roots, which are treated as natural products as well as agricultural wastes, on the hair dyeing by measuring dyeing interval, temperature, density changes, mordant and chromatic faction. The hair dyeing by the extracts significantly reduced hair damage and kept cuticle of hair softer than that by synthetic dyes. In addition, since a mordant is one of the necessary additives in dyeing, the role of a mordant was studied and concluded to be a supplementary substance based on the results that the hair dyeing by the extracts of P. thunbergiana roots alone was much darker than the others. Taken together, the data presented in this study suggest that the extracts of P. thunbergiana roots are is less damageable to hair and thus can be more safely applicable to hair dyes than that by synthetic dyes.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.57-65
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• 2020

To prevent loss of hair protein during hair washing process by water through, a shield coating the pathway of water molecules was studied. Hydrophobic virgin hair, hydrophilic hair, which was damaged only methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA) on the surface, and a repaired hair re-bound 18-MEA, were prepared and water mass changes by as heat were measured. Results showed that hydrophobic hairs followed bi-exponential function of 39 s and 151 s and other two hairs exhibited fast- and mono-exponential decay with 83 s, reflecting the extraction of water molecules without any resistance at the hydrophobic surface. On the assumption that hydrophobic surface resists an extraction of protein in water during the wash, the protein concentrations were compared from the hair of hydrophobic and hydrophilic surface. The extracted hair proteins were 179 and 148 ㎍/mL from the hair coated with hydrophilic polyethylene glycol (PEG) and hydrophobic polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), respectively. This study suggested that hydrophobic coating on the hair surface could be used to prevent protein loss in wash, represented by LFM. In conclusion, this research provides some useful information to contribute to the development of hair washing products that can prevent protein loss in the cleaning process by granting hydrophobic coatings.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.133-139
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• 2018

Chemically damaged hair is vulnerable to external stimuli in daily life due to the weakened physical properties of the hair strand itself. The purpose of this work was to determine whether chemical conjugation between hair keratin proteins restores tensile strength and thus results inpreventing further deterioration under repeated combing. A model damaged hair tress was produced by a typical perm-process. Then, it was internally crosslinked by the bifunctional crosslinker (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane (APTES), via both silane coupling and carbodiimide chemistry. Physical properties, including tensile strength, Young's modulus, and plateau stress, were measured to verify the effect of internal crosslinking, and the existence of crosslinking was verified by Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) spectroscopy. The degrees of hair breakage and split ends were evaluated by repeated combing-drying tests. Physical properties of chemically damaged hair were restored by internal crosslinking. Successful crosslinking of APTES via both silane coupling and carbodiimide chemistry was verified by FT-IR spectra. Prevention of breakage and split ends after repeated combing with heat was observed. Human hair can be weakened by chemical damage including perm-processing, so restoring such properties is a major issue in the hair care industry. This work shows that internal crosslinking of damaged hair via chemical conjugation would be a potent method to restore the healthy hair.

• KSBB Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.439-444
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• 2008

In this study, hair care effects of the hair cosmetics including low molecular weight silk peptide, hydrolysate which is produced from cocoon were investigated. After producing the hair cosmetics including silk peptide which has 300-500 molecular weight, we measured its hair care effects through the various tests; change of the hair weight, hair thickness, absorbance rate and hair moisture value and micro structure analysis. As a result, S.P.T. (Silk peptide Treatment) was effectively penetrated into the hair which has been damaged by chemical treatments, increased the hair weight, thickness and hair moisture value and also recovered the cuticle of the hair. Thus, the treatment of hair with silk peptide hydrolysate would be effective to recover the damaged hair into the normal conditions.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.141-149
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• 2018

The structure of the coacervate can dramatically influence deposition on the hair. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of coacervate with a relatively fine and uniform structure on the surface properties of hair and its influence on hair damage. In this study, coacervates of different sizes were explored in 10% shampoo solutions; one solution contained coacervates with non-uniform sizes ($10-300{\mu}m$ average), and the other solution formed a coacervate with a fine and uniform ($1-3{\mu}m$) structure. To study the effect of shampoo on the physical properties of hair and damage to the hair, the hair breakage characteristics, color changes, friction properties, lipid contents and hair surface were examined after using two different types of shampoo. The results clearly show that the relatively fine and uniformly sized coacervate was evenly deposited over the surface of the hair. As a result, the coacervate system can substantially influence the surface properties of the hair such as hair friction, breakage characteristics, and color. The frictional force was dramatically reduced. The use of a fine and uniformly sized coacervate can notably improve hair surface properties. Consequently, hair breakage decreased, and the effect of the coacervate on hair damage was remarkably high.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.128-141
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• 1998

소비자의 욕구의 다양화와 관련기술의 발달로 인해 단순 청결, 미화의 개념에서 치료의 기능을 가진 두발 화장품의 개발로 변화되고 있다. 스타일링, 트리트먼트 샴푸, 린스, 염모제 등 모든 두발화장품에 모발 손상을 치유한다는 트리트먼트의 개념을 소구하고 있음에 트리트먼트제의 기술동항에 고찰해 보고, 실제로 치료의 효과를 주는 항 비듬샴푸의 기술동향과 화중품으로 분류되진 않지만, 차세대 상품으로 예측되는 탈모방지제품의 기술동향에 대해 알아보고자 한다.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.4
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• pp.353-361
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• 2019

Using Fervidobacterium islandicum AW-1, keratin peptides were produced and confirmed factors related to the scalp and hair. The cytotoxicity and proliferation tests as a function of the concentration of the keratin peptide did not show toxicity and effect on the cellular proliferation in the immortalized human hair dermal papilla cell line. Hair shampoos and hair essences containing keratin peptides were produced, and conducted human patch test. Result showed no skin irritation. The shampoo and the essence were apploed to 2 groups of 30 healthy adults for 4 weeks and showed statistically significant positive results for gloss, hair loss, scalp trouble, and hair roughness by visual assessment. The scalp water content was significantly increased after 2 and 4 weeks compared to before using the shampoo or the essence. Trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and the sebum secretion amount in the scalp were significantly decreased after 4 weeks compared to before. The frictional force against combing before and after using the hair shampoo and the essence for normal hair tress and damaged hair tress was significantly changed. The combing force was increased for normal hair tress and decreased for damaged hair tress. In conclusion, we suggest that keratin peptides are appropriated as cosmetic ingredients to be used in hair and scalp related products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.139-145
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• 2012

There is a unique type of fatty acid in the hair surface. 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA) is an unusual anteiso fatty acid covalently linked to the outermost surface of hair cuticle. A layer of 18-MEA is located in the upper ${\beta}$-layer of the CMC that is responsible for the low surface energy and low friction resistance of the hair's outer surface. The high mobility of 18-MEA molecule facilitates spreading of extraneous lipid by decreasing interfacial shear strength. In this study, we introduced N-hydroxyl succinimidyl ester functional group to the one end of C10 - 40 isoalkyl acid for regenerating hair surface with covalently bound fatty acid layer. The re-hydrophobicization of hair surface has been investigated by contact angle measurement. The inner moisture content of hair at different levels of humidity (40, 55, 70 %RH) was measured by electric moisture analyzer. Treatment with Hydroxysuccinimidyl C10 - 40 Isoalkyl Acidate (HCIA) was supposed to make hair surface smoother by filling the cracks between cuticles with covalently bound fatty acid monomolecular layer like cuticle glue. This glue effect was also confirmed with line profile of AFM images. Therefore, the moisture and structural components of inner hair were not easily flown out and the optimum moisture content could be kept constantly though the outside humidity level was changed. The lateral force microscopy (LFM) by using atomic force microscope showed that the friction force of hair surface treated with HCIA was decreased. It also showed the constantly sustained friction value even after shampooing repeated 15 times.