• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.252-258
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• 1999

The aims of this study is to classify the lower somatotype of adult women and appearance analysis on the shape of flare skirts by using the image processing. Also We have made skirts in order to analyze the various types of appearance of flare skirts by using the image processing. The subjects for our wear test lower somatotype, who were controlled in their waist, abdomen and hip shapes. The flare skirts used for wear test were 112 types(combinated 14 fabric type and 8 lower somatotype). The effect of lower somatotype on the shape of flare skirts was determined by the horizontally hem line section shape and the silhouette of flare skirts with image processing. The data were analyzed by using analysis of variance and Turkey, Duncan multiple range test. The results obtained are summarized as follows: It is shown that the fabric weight elongation differs in fabrics properties, in direction of textures. The shape horizontal section of flare skirt hem line has differed with the number of nodes, wave-height of nodes and breadth of silhouette by fabrics properties and lower somatotype. It is noticed that the breadth of flare skirts by the silhouette has high correlation with the drape ability of fabrics and lower somatotype. Results for our flare skirts show changes in amplitude and mean with fabrics, somatotype. Therefore we can say that gray-level histograms are correlated with changes in appearance, differences in drape spacing and related fabric properties and their somatotype.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.03a
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• pp.102-102
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• 2011

레이온 섬유는 dry한 촉감, 고광택, 드레이프성 등 의류 분야에서 요구하는 많은 장점들을 가지고 있으나 타 섬유 소재에 비해 소비량이 적은 것은 합섬이나 면/울 제품에 비해 상대적으로 제품 가격이 높고, 형태안정성이 취약하여 정장 및 캐주얼의 겉감 용도로 쓰기에는 성능 보완이 필요하다. 또한 염색가공 공정에서 구김발생이 많으며, 열고정이 쉽게 이루어지지 않아 습윤강도와 탄성 회복률이 낮아 변형이 쉽게 발생된다. 이에 본 연구에서는 합섬의 장점을 그대로 유지하면서 레이온 섬유가 갖는 고비중과 우수한 드레이프성과 유연한 질감으로 소프트 터치를 발현하는 특수한 레이온 대체 소재를 실현하고자 하였다. 직물에서 드레이프성과 은은한 광택을 확보하기 위해서는 폴리머단계에서 비중과 광택을 발현할 수 있는 무기입자 중 비중이 높고, 중합 후 폴리머 내에서 광택을 유지하는 입자의 선택이 필요한데 본 실험에서는 $BaSO_4$를 이용하여 PET dope액과 중합한 후 용융 방사하여 고비중 폴리에스테르사(100/48)를 제조하였다. 고비중 폴리에스테르사를 이용하여 폭 58inch, 밀도 92T, 중량 324.8g/yd 직물로 제직하여 그에 따른 태를 측정하였다. 태측정기(KES-FB, KATO TECH CO)를 이용하여 인장 & 전단강도, 굽힘강도, 압축강도, 표면측정 시험 결과 $BaSO_4$ 2% 첨가한 원단의 드레이프성이 우수한 것을 확인할 수 있었다.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.111-121
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• 2012

This study focused on the plane and side drape coefficients of weft knitted fabrics as a function of knit structure, stitch density, and stiffness. Fifteen weft knitted fabrics are produced with five different structures (interlock, single pique, royal interlock, cross miss interlock, and mock royal interlock) and three different gauges (7G, 10G, and 12G). Five knit structures were the application of knit, tuck, and miss stitch on the basis of interlock of the double knit fabric For this purpose, three-dimensional shapes of the draped sample were obtained by using a drapability tester which can record the contour line coordinates of a projected plane drape. Then, projected shapes of the plane and side drape were derived from those three-dimensional ones to review the relationship between plane drape coefficients and side ones. It was found that the theoretical values of plane and side drape coefficients depending on the change of deflection angles fit to their experimental ones. A5 a result of a regression analysis of the relationship between plane and side drape coefficients, the relationship could be expressed as $y=0.5838x-0.0065x^2+9.03{\times}10^{-5}x^3$. In case of mean of drape coefficient, it was increased according to the rule of that the more tuck and miss stitch overlap. A high degree of correlation was found between stiffness and drape coefficient. The regression equation of drape coefficient($y$) can be represented by $y=y=\sqrt[3]{Stiffness}-10.72$.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.109-119
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• 2015

A wide variety of fashion materials focus on good drape property and softness. Among the recently emerging materials, Neoprene that consists of laminated knit on both sides of foamed neoprene sheet seeks a unique appearance that is considerably deviated from the current flow. Diverse processing methods for the newly released material heighten the value in function and beauty among trends of fashion materials by enhancing the appearance, touch and material property. Laser-cutting technique is one of the processing methods that is consistently used in the textile area. This study aimed to find the basic materials for applicability of laser-cutting technique to clothing goods after consideration of the changes in material property and drape shape, and to furthermore enforce different pattern conditions to Neoprene material, one of the newly attractive materials in the fashion area. In this study, we applied laser-cutting technique to Neoprene material sample under different conditions of pattern appearance, size and distance, based on current evaluation and theoretical background of Neoprene material, fashion trend and laser-cutting technique. Drape property can improve and the drape direction could also be controlled by a wide variety of laser-cutting techniques applied to Neoprene materials that have uniquely different appearances from most other textiles. This technique could be applied to the design for diversification of Neoprene clothing goods in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.519-526
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• 1996

To investigate the relationship between plane and side drape coefficient, the drape tester designed in which coordinate of projected outline of draped specimen could be recorded. By using this drape tester, the three dimensional shape, plane and side drape coefficient were obtained from coordinate of plane projected shape, and furthermore examined the tendency in changes of drape coefficient in terms of diameter of specimen, deflection angle, and bending rigidity. The side drape coefficients were constant regardless of changes in diameter of specimen. The plane drape coefficients, however, made a little difference according to changes in diameter of specimen. The experimental drape coefficient agreed well with the theoretical drape coefficient according to deflection angle. In the meanwhile, when the plane drape coefficients were regressed with the side drape coefficents, regression equation was $y=0.375x-0.002x^2+6.9\times10^{-5}x^3$. When the $\overline{\theta_s}$ is mean of deflection angle of selected points which have the longest and shortest distance from center point in the node, the theoretical drape coefficient calculated from $\overline{\theta_s}$ has high correlation with experimental drape coefficient. The plane and side drape coefficient changed linearly with increasing the bending length, $\sqrt[3]{EI/w}$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.139-148
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• 1998

This study was performed to develop the flare skirt pattern in CAD system by each of the textile's test. 1 made 28 flare skirts(360$^{\circ}$, length of 60 cm, straight gram at front ST side seam, 28 kind of textiles) and found the changes of skirt length. And I measured thickness, weight, density, drapability and bending in these textiles. Therefore, It analyzed these data and found it regression.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
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• 1998.04a
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• pp.346-349
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• 1998

1.0 dtex이하의 섬도를 갖는 극세사 섬유는 수분율이 높아 촉감이 부드러우며 드레이프성이 우수하고 실크같은 광택효과를 갖고 있다. 그러나 극세사는 저온에서도 염착이 일어나며 넓은 표면적으로 인하여 염착속도가 빨라 불균염이 일어나기 쉽다. 또한 섬유의 직경이 작아 표면적이 넓기 때문에, 동일한 색상을 얻기 위해서는 다른 섬유로 된 직물에 비해 과량의 염료가 필요하게 되고 이로 인하여 낮은 견뢰도를 나타내며 오염물질이 고농도인 염색폐수를 방출하게 된다.(중략)

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.191-196
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• 2011

Fabric extraction force measured through nozzle tester reflects a comprehensive fabric handle. Nozzle tester takes advantage of low cost, and simple and fast operating procedure compared with KES system. The paper is to develop the semi-emprical equation for assessment of the fabric handle measured with nozzle tester on the basis of friction law. The variables considered in the equation arc fabric's frictional coefficient and drape coefficient which is determined in terms of fabric bending length and shear strain. The experiment of 12 different cotton and polyester fabrics and comparisons between experimental and theoretical results were conducted. Fabrics of high frictional coefficients, high bending length, and low shear strain showed high fabric handle forces (low handle values). The handle forces predicted from the equation agreed well with those measured, which indicates that the equation can be used to objectively evaluate fabric handle with respect to fabric's own properties and also provide an information for fabric design to improve the handle performance.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.284-288
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• 2002

In this research, a new quantitative fabric drape evaluation system has been developed using image processing technology. The purpose of this research is to get the more detailed information of fabric drapability quantitatively from digital images captured with a digital camera generally commercialized. The shape parameters of a 3-dimensional geometric drape model were defined as the number of nodes, frequency and amplitude. Also, various statistical information of drape shapes can be obtained using image processing technology and frequency analysis as well as traditional drape coefficients. Hardware system to capture drape images is simply composed of three parts including a digital USB (Universal Serial Bus) camera, a frame cover and a stand for camera to attach to traditional drape tester. The evaluation software coded with the MS Visual C++ is operated under the MS windows 9x above.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.460-464
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• 2009

The purpose of the study was to investigate the changes of drapability and mechanical properties with folded yarn conditions. The samples were knitted 100% cotton yarn with hand-knitting machine. Mechanical properties were measured by Instron and Kawabata tester. Drapability was measured by Drapemeter. The differences in each sample were observed in the experimental results. This study showed that folded conditions were important conditions for fabric handle and properties.