• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.39-48
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• 2011

There still is a limitation in the usage of 3D clothes model in the production line due to the lack of compatibility between 3D modeling software, and its accurate 2D pattern making software, especially for free formed dress with tight fitted zone and draped part. In this study, obstacles in the 3D direct dress design process was overcome by solving the compatibility among each step of 3D virtual design process as well as adopting 3D-2D direct pattern development program called 2C-AN. Efficacy of making 2D pattern from 3D dress design using 2C-AN program developed by the authors was examined during the course of actual dress making process. Accurate ease over the fitted dress part was examined by 3D scanning technology, and the actual appearance of the draped part was compared with the simulation image of dress model. It was confirmed that the entire 3D design process and direct 2D pattern development proposed in this study was accurate enough to use in the 3D design process.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2004.08a
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• pp.368-369
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• 2004

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.950-962
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop the slim-fit dress shirt pattern. Among the published educational patterns, there were four patterns based on similar design and silhouette with slim-fit dress shirts. Then, the drafting method of those patternsBB were compared and analyzed. The subjects for wearing evaluation were three 20 to 39 aged average-sized men. After the wearing evaluation(5 Likert point scale), N pattern had been chosen as the final comparison pattern because it received the highest points. The slim-fit shirt pattern was developed based on the result of wearing evaluation. The foundation design were as following: shirt length (Stature/2-12), back length (Stature/4), armhole depth (Chest/4+1), width (Chest/4+3), Interscye; Back (Chest/6+5), Interscye; Front (Chest/6+4), width of the nape of neck (Neck/6+1=◎), height of the nape of neck (◎/3), of the front neck (◎-0.5), depth of the front neck(◎+1.5). After the wearing evaluation about researched pattern and N pattern, researched patternsBB scale points were bigger than N pattern and there were slight differences. The scale points for N patternsBB movement evaluation showed highest points on all contents. Therefore, the researched pattern is suitable for the original form of slim-fit dress shirt. The new dress shirt pattern reflected the slim-fit trend in the research expected to help educational environment and industrial site.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.97-108
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• 2004

This study was conducted to examine the marking efficiency of a dress pattern in order to reduce textile loss by pattern marking. A basic one-piece dress pattern saved to the Yuka CAD System was graded with different sizes and arranged for industrial purpose to calculate the marking efficiency in different conditions. Condition of marking experiment is made it a rule to use 150cm textile width and apply 44, 55, 66 pattern size for three pieces of a dress patterns. The results of the study indicated that the marking efficiency rates of the dress pattern with a separate facing was higher than the one with a self facing. In the dress pattern with a separate facing, the separated seam at center back was appeared to have a higher marking efficiency than the extended seam. It was also found that the efficiency rate was higher in the pattern with a seam at center back when comparing with the dress pattern without a seam. When the marking with a horizontally-loaded collar was compared with a vertically-loaded collar, the efficiency rate was higher for the collar loaded horizontally, The result of the study showed that the type of facing, the location of a seam, and the direction of collar loading were the factors directly related to increasing marking efficiency. The dress patterns marked efficiently in terms of a type of facing, seam, and collar treatment can reduce fabric loss and also shorten the time needed for marking process.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.529-547
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to understand the concept, form, and structure of the bata de cola through an investigation of the history of the costume and a study of the suitability of its functional elements during performance of 'Caña Flamenco'. Traditionally, Flamenco dance dresses were made by Spanish women from the lower classes, and the 'upward flow' of the dresses represented the women's individuality and unique style. The bata de cola, which appeared later, was an evolution of the Flamenco dress that was influenced by costume styles and silhouettes of the 19th and early 20th centuries, and it was made famous by Flamenco dancers. For practical costume production, a Flamenco artist who had performed in Spain and Korea was proposed as a study participant. The study was conducted using a stepwise wearing evaluation method whereby the Flamenco artist wore prototype dresses and evaluated whether they were practical for the required dance movements or not. A final bata de cola pattern was derived after the experiment was repeated five times based on the feedback of the Flamenco artist, focusing on the factors that were considered most important. Using stepwise clothing evaluation of the prototype, a costume that enabled the Flamenco artist to implement optimal movements was successfully produced.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.53-71
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• 2023

Dressmaking is a high value-added sector of the fashion industry in which the individuality and skills of designers play a prominent role. The appropriate use of the draping and the flat pattern techniques in the dressmaking process also play an important part in perfecting the finished product. The purpose of this study was to improve the understanding of dress design and identify a pattern production technique to enhence efficiency in each of the three elements of the dress manufactureing process. For this purpose, analysis of the design of 1,389 wedding dress photographs published in Wedding 21, Korea's leading wedding magazine, during 2019 and 2020 was conducted. This analysis identified 15 bodice designs and 11 sleeve designs based on neckline and eight skirts based on silhouette which were ranked by frequency distribution. Patterns for the design of samples were then developed according to the highest combined frequency distribution of these three elements. Eight samples were finally produced to test the the efficiency of the patternmaking techniques empolyed and the selected designs. The findings from this study have practical applications, notably in improving the efficiency of pattern production techniques that will facilitate further growth in the dressmaking industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.171-187
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• 2016

The study performed a comparison analysis of market brand patterns for slim-fit dress shirts and analyzed the body surface development figure of men in their 40s using 3D body scan data and developed slim-fit dress shirt patterns suitable for middle-aged men. The sizes of slim-fit dress shirt patterns showed a slight difference depending on brand. The overlap map of slim-fit dress shirt patterns for brands demonstrates how difference of one-dimensional sizes reflect on two-dimensional patterns. This map provides useful information for pattern design and allows and easy recognition of pattern size differences. A try-on system evaluation through 3D-Simulation allows a grasp of the fitness of neckline and size tolerance of under the arms in front, the silhouette of side lines, and overall fitness in front that also allows analysis of the front/back balance of a shirt in side, the size tolerance proportion in front/back, and the fitness of the arm-hole line. Thus, we obtained try-on results that were equivalent to wearing actual clothing. According to the drafting size suggested in the developed final pattern, the total width was 'C/2+5.5cm', and the front was set at 1cm bigger in the size difference of the front and back. The width of the front neck and the back neck was set identically at 'C/12', while the width of the front neck was set to 'C/12+1.5cm'. For the armhole depth, we added 'C/4+2cm', and '0.5cm and 1.5cm' for the width of the front and back to anthropometry. The results of the try-on evaluation through 3D-Simulation indicated that the fitness of the final slim-fit dress shirt pattern was superior to available slim-fit dress shirt patterns on the market and evaluated as superior to the types for middle-aged men.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.294-306
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is a men's dress shirt pattern by somatotype for mass customization system that is rising to the surface as a new production system. Subjects were 65 men aged from 25 to 44 for making research pattern and 9 men for wearing test. The dress shirt went through the secondary wearing test and sensory evaluation to verify the propriety of the research pattern. The results were as follows: For making research dress shirts pattern used the body parts size that were height, the circumference of the neck, the chest circumference, the length between biacromion, the arms length, and the waist circumference. The waist back length, the waist to hip length and the pattern length of were set by the calculation formula based on the height. The ease of 16cm for the chest circumference and A type had the ease of 10cm for the waist circumference, Y type had the ease of 8cm and B type had 12cm. Through the wearing test, the research pattern showed significant difference from the comparative patterns so additional two items of the length between biacromion and waist circumference were added to the items used in the comparative patterns through which satisfactory results were obtained. In the secondary wearing test for the dress shirt, all the items, except for the front centerline, were evaluated excellent. As a result of evaluating by the figure type, the normal type was evaluated best in all the items.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.452-458
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• 2019

This study provides basic research for developing dress forms of women's wear making. This study compared the average body size of Korean women by investigating the shape, composition and size of 417 dress forms for pattern making, sold at Korean and international online malls. The results showed that Korean brands produced torso-type and torso-crotch-type (94.13%), torso-type was the most dominant type made by Japanese Ki and French St (${\geq}80%$), and all US Al products were whole-body-type. The most common used internal filler of the dress forms was urethane for South Korean companies and paper for Japanese Ki and French St. In most cases, cotton was used for outer materials. Alternatively, linen and rayon were used as outer materials. Al did not indicate the materials used for filler and outer layers. Additionally, the sizing system of dress forms was commonly presented as a Numeric type. In addition to Numeric type, Ki presented body type + usage and Al used character type. When the dress form size for the average bust size of each age group was evaluated, waist measurements were smaller than the corresponding bust measurements. Dress form was presented in the KS interval and was compared with the $mean{\pm}1{\sigma}$ interval of each age group. The majority of the dress forms produced in South Korea were for body shapes in their 20s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.97-109
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• 2014

This study developed a functional dress shirt for adult males that reflected the body surface variation of a human body section by motion. This study conducted a 3D body scan for 8 subjects in their 40's based on the Size Korea 2010 database. Data recorded the proper posture change value and body surface change value to develop functional dress shirts for adult males. We scanned the subjects with a 3D body scanner for five primarily male wearing dress shirts and operating postures, right standing, arms raised to $90^{\circ}$ horizontal forward position, arms raised $90^{\circ}$ to the horizontal position side, lift up the arm $180^{\circ}$, and arm forward $90^{\circ}$ in a bent posture. We analyzed the 3D scan data from those motions to examine change of length using 3D software Rapidform XOS. The results indicated that the body surface sections with contraction were the front and rear shoulder area, armpit and central length as well the width of arms at more than 10%. The increased body section included the body and armpit back length; in addition, the rear arm vibration girth and under arm girth were more than 10%. In order to reflect the size variation of for each motion, the ease amount of the front and rear shoulder length and width needs to be reduced 20% because it affects the shoulder length during the right standing. The results suggest that the ease amount of the shoulder length should be minimal. The ease amount of the back size needs to be 0.5-2cm bigger and set 0.5-1.5cm longer than the dress shirt length side drooping to compensate for the side length shortage of each motion. The sleeve length needs to be 0-0.5cm shorter, and ease amount of the girth of sleeve bottom needs to be reduced 0-0.7cm due to the size variation of arms. However, the girth of the rear arms is suggested to be 0-0.6cm longer in the ease amount to the rear arm girth as the extension is more than 10% over the width and length of each motion.