• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.107-117
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• 2018

Nettle fiber, a sustainable fiber, was applied to the fabrication of denim to identify changes in textile appearance and formation. For the weaving of nettle denim, nine specimens, distinguished by three kinds of composite use of nettle fiber and three stages of fabrication processes, were used. The kinetic characteristics of the nine specimens were measured by the KES-FB system, and the images of the specimens of finished denim textiles, captured with a CCD Camera, were analyzed. In terms of the extensibility (EM) of nettle denim, all specimens showed post-processing increase, thereby suggesting an easy transformation of the textile as a source material for denim fabric. The effects of washing on the woven formation of denim were also identified. The geometric roughness (SMD), the problematic property of bast-fiber-like nettle fiber, was found to be decreased by washing. In terms of the bending rigidity (B) of the textile, the post-processing shrinking percentage of elastic nettle denim was found to decrease; all specimens that underwent bio-washing only also manifested that post-processing elasticity increased. To improve the draping of nettle denim, a mixed spinning together with washing were found to be advantageous. In terms of the shear stiffness (G), which is closely associated with the appearance of clothes, the formation of textile was improved regardless of the types of processing, including bio-washing and bleach washing.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.1061-1074
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• 2011

This study was conducted based on a comparative analysis of design-specific features prevalent in the Women's Wear Collection S/S 2011. As the method of this study, the denim styles were classified by various fashion design factors consisting of silhouette, fit, color, and textile fabric, which were extracted from an image database. The properties of denim fabrics associated with each fashion image were investigated to inform fabric development and washing. The results of the study show that the dense and glossy surface of the denim fabric represent a modern trend, which can be achieved by blending lyocell, tencel and rayon or by using different textiles, such as lightweight plain weave and satin instead of twill. For casual look, various washing effects were utilized jean's casual feeling like freedom and activities, while in a modern image, washing effects was restricted. And a glossy textile offers a simple modern look. The Modern image represents a simple H-silhouette and wide or straight fit in bottoms as well. Brightness can be adjusted by washing-induced bleaching. High brightness gives an elegant image, while low brightness makes a casual image. The purpose of this study is to configure a database for the development of design in the growing women's casual wear market. In addition, This study, in which the elements for specific fashion image-making were analyzed, can be used as a reference for developing denim style and fabric.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.461-472
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressive style of radical feminism and post-modern feminism appearing on the contemporary denim fashion by examining pictures from professional fashion magazine Vogue. For this study, I investigated documents to study the characteristic of radical feminism and post-modern feminism and classified the contemporary denim fashion into erotic look, endrogynous look and deconstructive look. The results of study on the expression style of feminism reflected on the contemporary denim fashion were as follows: First, radical feminism emphasizes that women's sexual feature is never inferior to men's. Therefore in denim fashion, erotic style which emphasize on women's sexual beauty is represented by making hot pants, mini skirt, halter blouse of denim and by using colored jeans and flower print or beads on denim. Second, post-modern feminism has been represented by disregarding or intergrating the existed rule as refusing sexual discrimination. It has been represented in fashion as an endrogynous style by representing neutral gender image. Today, it is represented in denim fashion by mixing a different fabric with denim and matching womanish design with mannish design. Third, post-modem feminism are classified into unfixed expression of genders and the deconstructive expression of methodology. The deconstructive expression of denim fashion is represented by using the damage of fabric by making a hole or tearing intentionally or fraying edge of denim. Also the unfinished designs and transformed dressing are used to express the deconstructive character in denim.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.191-203
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to present a making method of jeans pattern with high fitness after deriving the appropriate shrinkage rate by material and washing process. According to the result of the exterior evaluation of test jeans, all 6 jeans were rated high with scores close to 3.5. Following the evaluation of satisfaction of usage by physical movement, the highest ranking was in the order of walking with normal steps, back bending $90^{\circ}$, chair sitting, climbing stairs and squatting. The shrinkage rate by physical area showed the highest score in the order of pants length, waist circumference, thigh circumference, knee circumference, hem circumference, hips circumference. In addition, the shrinkage rate was higher in warp direction than weft direction after washing finishing. As for the result of addition and reduction of pattern measurements by parts of jeans, waist circumference was $3.1{\sim}5.1cm$, hips circumference was $-1.2{\sim}4.2cm$, thigh circumference was $-0.9{\sim}3.1cm$ and pants length was $3.4{\sim}6.1cm$. That is, this results showed a wide range of addition and reduction according to material and washing finishing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권7호
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• pp.997-1007
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• 2007

The denim fashion is a style of clothing showing trends towards globalization in that it is most favored and most frequently purchased and worn by youngsters throughout the world. However, it differs from region to region in its shapes, colors, silhouettes and coordination, reflecting a feature of regionalism. Male denim fashion data were collected from large cities of the East and the West for an analysis in terms of design and coordination. It was found that a common point originated from the features of the clothing itself as well as from a common culture shared among those of similar ages while differences came from various factors such as aesthetic sentiments and lifestyle of each ethnic group, willingness to accept the fashion trends, and the ways of expressing oneself by means of clothing and their attitude towards clothing. It was noteworthy that the denim fashion in Europe and America, Beijing and Seoul differed largely owing to their different tastes for expressing themselves. A comparison study of the regional denim styles may lead to a better understanding of a worldwide phenomenon of the common fashion trends and regional differences in aesthetic appeal and the fashion preference.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.412-424
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• 2006

본 연구는 먼저 자연주의와 자연주의 복식이 무엇인가에 대하여 고찰하고 그 개념을 바탕으로 자연의 요소 중 그 화려함과 다양함을 보여 주는 나비를 선택하여 자연 소재인 데님과 접목시킴으로써 인간 체형에 자연의 형태를 입혀 자연과 친화될 수 있는 고부가가치의 현대 복식 디자인을 창출하는 것을 목적으로 하였다. 그리고 디자인 도출방법으로는 요즘 디자인 작업에서 많이 활용피고 있는 CAD 시스템 중 가장 대중화되어 있는 Adove illustrator 10, Photoshop 7.0, Prima Vision Textile Design System을 이용하여 디자인을 하였다. 본 논문의 연구결과는 다음과 같다. 자연주의의 개념은 인간의 본질에 관심을 가지고 과학에 근거를 둔 사실적인 묘사로 객관성을 가지며 이로 인해 자연 속에서 삶의 본질을 찾고자 하는 것이다. 자연주의 복식의 개념은 천연의 가공하지 않은 소재와 자연의 색이나 천연염료의 색을 사용하고 자연의 모티브인 식물$\cdot$동물 등 자연 형상을 모티브로 하며 편안하고 자연스러운 실루엣을 의미하는 복식인 것을 알 수 있었다 그리고 나비의 뚜렷한 시각적 강조를 드러내는 구조는 어느 곤충들보다 화려하여 우리의 관심을 끌어들이는 데에 사용될 수 있고 작가가 의도하는 방향으로 발전시킬 수 있는 가능성을 확인할 수 있었다. 마지막으로 캐드를 이용한 프린팅 디자인은 수작업으로 이루어지는 일반 프린팅 기법에 비해 더욱 풍부한 색의 프린트 디자인과 다양한 시도를 할 수 있어 프린트 디자인에 더욱 많은 기회와 경제성을 제공하는 것을 확인할 수 있었다.

• 한국섬유공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국섬유공학회 1998년도 가을 학술발표회논문집
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• pp.174-177
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• 1998

기존의 인디고 염색 방법은 데님용 실을 여러 가닥 합하여 로프 형태로 만든 다음 정련조를 거쳐 미리 환원시켜 놓은 인디고 염액 박스 5~6개조를 빠른 시간에 통과시키면서 침지-공기 산화를 반복해 실을 링 염색시키는 방법을 사용하고 있다. 이렇게 실 형태로 링 염색시킨 인디고 선염사와 미염색사를 이용하여 제직하고 가먼트로 만든 후, 소비자가 요구하는 색상을 맞추기 위해 별도의 워싱(washing) 가공을 행하여 색상이 점차적으로 흐리게 되는 페이드 아웃(fade-out) 효과를 내는 제품으로 생산되고 있다. (중략)

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.133-146
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the fusion phenomenon that appears in contemporary women's denim fashion in order to find a way to come up with a creative denim design. The methodology of this study is to research documents related to fusion phenomena and consider precedent studies to establish a criteria for analyzing fusion phenomena. The results are as follows: First, fusion phenomena in modern women's denim can be categorized into fusion of time, fusion of space, fusion of gender, fusion of culture, and fusion of genre. Fusion of time appears as fusion with the past and fusion with the future. Fusion of space appears as fusion with Asia and fusion with other regions. Fusion of gender appears as unisex, androgynous, and genderless. Fusion of culture appears as fusion with subcultures such as grunge, kidult, lingerie, hippy look, hip hop fashion, etc. Finally, fusion of genre appears as fusion of materials, fusion of style, and fusion of circumstances. Second, when analyzing the frequency of appearance for fusion phenomena, fusion of culture appeared with a frequency of 29.7%, followed by fusion of genre with 19.1%, fusion of time with 10.5%, fusion of gender with 9.9%, and fusion of space with 8.5%. When analyzing the most frequently appearing fusion phenomena by year, fusion of culture appeared the most from the year 2000 to 2004, fusion of space and time in 2005, fusion of genre from 2006 to 2007, fusion of culture again in 2008 and 2009, and once more fusion of genre appeared the most in 2010.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.144-151
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• 2002

The assessment of hand of the denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis will be discussed in this study. The subjective hand and the preference of the denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis were evaluated using the developed scale(Part I). The factors affecting consumer's taste for denim fabrics were analyzed by statistics using SAS program. Also, the enzymatic of hydrolysis on the properties of denim fabrics were evaluated by subjective hand measurements. The results are as follows; Regarding the surface properties and the weight, Tencel was evaluated to be the finest, the smoothest, the most flexible, the warmest, the most refined, the sleekest, the flossiest, the lightest the softest, and the thinnest among the four kinds of fabrics. The other fabrics in the order of cotton/Tencel, cotton, cotton/PP were evaluated to qualify the listed touches. Tencel was evaluated to be the loosest and the weakest among the four kinds of denim. Cotton was evaluated to have the driest touch. In addition, the fabrics were evaluated to be more elastic and less wrinkly in the order of Tencel > cotton > cotton/Tencel > cotton/ PP. For the hand preference, the fabrics were ranked in the order of Tencel, cotton, cotton/Tencel, cotton/PP, where tencel is the moat preferred. Cotton/Tencel and cotton/PP showed negative values in the hand and the color preference, meaning that the evaluators disliked their touches. Hand preference of enzyme hydrolyzed cotton/Tencel and cotton/PP denims do not seem to appeal to Korean people.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.27-39
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of denim dresses from the 19th century until the $20^{th}$ century and analyze those changes shown in Paris Milan London New York collections from 2001 S/S to 2013/14 F/W. The results of this study are as follows; 1) In the mid-$19^{th}$ century, the denim pants were working suits. In the 1920's, they started to be recognized as ordinary clothing and they were supplied to women in World War II. In the 1950's, denim pants stood for youth and resistance, and they became popular among teenagers. In the 1960's, hippies who protested against the Vietnamese War would wear worn-out denim pants symbolizing peace and freedom. As they became more common in the 1970's, people all around the world wore the clothes. In the 1980's~90's, the waves of high class brand fashions brought in sensualism, extravagance, reactionary tendency, and so forth. Consequently, the aesthetic values of denim dresses have connotations of practicality, resistibility, ornamentation and femininity. 2) Practicality in recent collections is represented in classic fashion which features typical details and raw denim and modern fashion which is made with glossy denim and minimized details. Resistibility is represented in avant-garde fashion which features deformed or over-layered jackets and pants with damaged denim and vintage fashion which is made with wash-out and wild stone denim. Ornamentation is represented in ethnic fashion which is made with wash-out denim and ethnic prints and romantic fashion which features details such as ruffle, frill and shirring as well as lace and flowery decorations. Femininity is represented in sexy fashion which designs to expose or to focus in women's body and elegant fashion which is made with soft and glossy denim and hourglass silhouette.