• Title/Summary/Keyword: 당치마

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A Study on the Transfer of Korean Sang(Skirts) to Japan and its Changes (한국 상(裳)의 일본 전파와 변천에 관한 연구)

  • 김미자
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.2
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    • pp.125-137
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    • 2002
  • This study proved that Japanese skirt(裳 'sang') during 5-8 century was introduced by korean emigrants. The skirt of the Tang dynasty(7C) which used to be worn among Japanese upper class in the Nara period(8C),is understood to be transferred through Korean as it was popularly worn in the Shilla Dynasty at the same time. Because Japan was not able to trade with Tang during 4-9 century, unless pass through the Korean peninsular, it suggests that Japanese costume was affected by Korean style of costume. At the later Heian period in Japan, Kosode was mainly worn among Japanese and wearing a skirt has to be abandoned. Instead, only the train, a part of skirt, remain as a decorative part on the back of Japanese woman's formal dress and it continued until now.

唐诗中的唐人服饰

  • 杨忠
    • Journal of the Daesoon Academy of Sciences
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    • v.16
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    • pp.217-226
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    • 2003
  • 당시(唐詩)에는 당나라 사람들의 생활상이 많이 반영되고 있으며, 이러한 기록들은 많은 부분에 있어서 역사서적의 내용과 일치하기도 한다. 그러므로 우리는 당시를 통하여 당나라의 제도 뿐만 아니라 당나라 사람들의 생활도 광범위하게 이해할 수 있다. 본 고에서 우리는 당시에서 언급되고 있는 당나라 사람들의 복식에 있어서 몇 가지 문제들을 간략히 서술하기로 한다. 당대 초기에는 수나라 복제를 따랐으나, 태종(太宗)과 고종(高宗)을 거치면서 품급에 따라 복색을 구체적으로 구분하였으며, 여자들도 남편의 복색을 따랐다. 황색을 황제의 복색으로 한 것은 고종 총장 원년(668)에 시작되었다. 고종 상원(上元) 원년(674)에는 또 관원의 품급에 따라 색깔의 짙고 옅음을 엄격히 구분하였을 뿐만 아니라 요대의 장식물 재료에도 상세한 규정을 함으로써 신분의 차이를 더욱 구체적으로 구분하였다. 관복의 색깔로 등급의 차이를 구별한 외에도 5품 이상의 관원에게는 어부(魚符)를 담는 어대(魚袋)를 차고 다니게 함으로써 귀천을 분별하였고, 조정의 부름에 응하는 부신(符信)으로 삼았다. 어부는 물고기 모양으로 관등에 따라 금(金)·은(銀)·동(銅)으로 만들어 몸에 지니고 다녔다. 관원들은 갓의 모양으로도 귀천을 구분하였다. 귀족을 갓을 썼으나 평민은 쓰지 못하였고, 문관과 무관도 갓을 각기 달리하였다. 당시에는 또 여자들의 복식과 관련한 묘사도 상당히 보인다. 당나라 때의 여자들은 한(漢)나라 진(晋)나라 때와 마찬가지로 일반적으로 윗옷과 치마를 입었다. 치마는 가슴에서 동여매었고, 그 길이도 매우 길어 땅에 3촌(寸)까지 끌렸다. 여자들은 대개 상의(上衣) 밖에 이른바 반비(半臂)라는 반소매의 옷을 입었다. 본래는 궁녀들이 일하기 편리한 복장으로 입었는데, 후에 점차 여자들의 평상복이 되었다. 여자들의 눈썹과 머리형에 관해서도 당시에는 많이 묘사되고 있다. 여자들의 머리장식과 화장 그리고 몸의 각종 장식구에 대해서도 당시에는 상당히 언급되고 있다. 당나라 여자들의 복식에 있어서 가장 큰 특징은 국내 소수민족 및 외국의 복식에 영향을 받아 "호복(胡服)"을 즐겨 입었다는 점이다. 이른바 "호복"은 서역만을 가리키는 것이 아니라 주변국들의 복장도 가리킨다. 여자들이 쓰는 모자와 신발에도 많은 변화가 생겼다. 당나라 중원지역에는 "만화(蠻靴)"를 신는 여자들이 생겨났으며, 이것은 호복의 하나로 호화(胡靴)라고 칭하기도 하였다. 여자들의 미와 상대적인 자유에 대한 추구는 당시에 강렬히 나타나고 있으며, 이것은 당나라 여자들의 사상이 점차로 개방화되고 있음을 시사해 준다. 이러한 개방의 과정은 당나라 사회의 개방과 사상문화의 교류·진보와 밀접히 관련하는 것이다. 그래서 당나라 사람들의 복식에 대한 당시의 묘사는 우리가 당나라 사회와 사람들의 생활을 이해하는데 중요한 단서가 되고 있다고 말할 수 있다.

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Characteristics of Polysaccharide Extracted from the Cultured Mycelia of Schizophyllum commune (치마버섯 균사체 배양물로부터 분리한 다당류의 이화학적 특성)

  • Lee, June-Woo;Kim, Yong-Seok
    • The Korean Journal of Mycology
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    • v.37 no.1
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    • pp.91-95
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    • 2009
  • To examine physico-chemical properties of the polysaccharide extracted from liquid-cultured mycelia of Schizophyllum commune, each the polysaccharide was extracted with hot water treatment and then fractionated with ethanol, alkaline solution and ultrafiltration. And we determined carbohydrate contents, composition of amino acids, infra-red spectrum and viscosity. Carbohydrate contents of polysaccharide treated with ethanol and ultrafiltration were 72.0% and 62.3%, and proteins content were 15.3% and 32.0% respectively. The carbohydrate consisted of four monosaccharides and the protein contained 16 amino acids. The polysaccharide obtained from ultrafiltration was shown an absorption band characteristic of the ${\beta}$-glycosidic linkage by infra red spectra. These results suggest that the polysaccharide extracted from Schizophyllum commune showed the characteristics of proteinbounded polysaccharide, and it was ${\beta}$-glycosidic linkage with strong viscosity.

Study on one-piece design using traditional children's wear (전통 어린이 복식을 응용한 원피스 디자인 연구)

  • Kim, Weol-Kye
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.14 no.1
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    • pp.106-115
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    • 2010
  • This study's purpose is to, first survey the traditional children clothing, clothing which doesn't get studied mostly. Second, to choose the factor that can modernize. Third, to design the present one-piece dress. Fourth, to gather an understanding about traditional children clothing and make a chance for children to wear the clothing that has a traditional factor. Traditional children clothes have a same shape with adults' clothes they use five primary color and use a pattern of a symbolic meaning which means healthy and long life. For ordinary wears there are Chimajogori and Bajijogori and for ceremonial dresses they wore Durumagi, Sagyusam which are Po and Dangui and headdress was added. The shape was considered by the children growth condition so the Gorum got longer. The dragon, cicadas, butterfly, phoenix and lots of flower pattern was used by the difference with the class. 5 one-piece design adapted Jogori, skirt, Dangui, Sagyusam, Magoja and used the traditional fabric by mixing the five primary color and the five secondary color was used to make traditional color. This study expects for a chance of children to wear traditional Hanbok or Hanbok-adapted clothes.

A Survey on the Korean Costume(Traditional Hanbok, Saenghwal Hanbok) for Children (어린이 한복(전통한복, 생활한복)에 관한 조사연구 - 경남지역 마산.창원시 거주 어린이와 어머니를 대상으로 -)

  • 정혜경
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.53 no.5
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    • pp.97-110
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    • 2003
  • This study was done to investigate the wearing experience, the taste and attitudes toward Korean Costume(Traditional and Saenghwal Hanbok). Data were collected by self-administered question from 307 elementary school children and 307 mother during 7, 2002. Conclusions are as follows : 1. Hanbok was worn mainly in the first birthday of children and 6∼7years old. But it was rarely worn in 4th∼6th grade of elementary school. Most of children had worn the Traditional Hanbok, about 30% had worn the Saenghwal Hanbok. 2. Childrens liked Saenghwal Hanbok more than Traditional Hanbok, girls liked Hanbok more than boys did. And 31.4% of boys disliked Hanbok, the main motives for dislike were concerned with the discomfort to move, the feel of cloth and becoming. Boys prefered the style of ´vest/ Jeokori/ Bajii´ in Traditional Hanbok, and ´half-sleeve Jeokori/ Baji´ in Saenghwal Hanbok. Girls prefered the style of ´Dangeui/ Chima´ in Traditional Hanbok, and ´One piece/ Jeokori´ in Saenghwal Hanbok. Childrens prefered analogous color scheme to contrasting color scheme. Boys prefered the blue groups, girls prefered the orange and red groups. 3. Childrens had more positive attitudes towards Saenghwal Hanbok than Traditional Hanbok. Mothers had positive attitudes towards both these types. And the attitudes toward Saenghwal Hanbok and Traditional Hanbok of childrens were more positive than mother´s. Therefore the following suggestions may be proposed for the development of Hanbok for children. 1. Hanbok is need to be designed considering activity, feeling and becomingness for teenagers. 2. Hanbok design must be kept seperated Traditional Hanbok and Saenghwal Hanbok. Traditional Hanbok is need to emphases tradition, Saenghwal Hanbok is need to apply a western style and have a practical use.

A Study of Global Fashion Design Applied with Image Element of Korean Dress and its Ornaments (한국복식(韓國服飾)의 이미지 요소(要素)가 적용(適用)된 글로벌 패션디자인 연구(硏究))

  • Lee, Byoung-Haw
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.6 no.1
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    • pp.155-166
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    • 2002
  • As the whole world is rapidly becoming hollow connected by networks, the fashion world in the 21st century is about to mould the identity of one's own country by establishing image of one’s own country and originality. Therefore the purpose of this study is in the development of designs in order to making the image of Korean dress and ornaments firmly in the global fashion by grafting and applying the elements of Korean dress and ornaments to the modern fashion. The method of this study consists of production of works after investigation of the images of Korean dress and ornaments applied to the modern fashion or detail elements in the Korean research papers and works. The elements of images of Korean dress and ornaments which used for the production of works like Dongjeong, Baerae, Dangeu doryeon, Chima heori, Goreum, Jeogori, Euryeyong chima, Saegdong, Jogakbo, Jatmullim, Geumbakseuran are made of use as motives, and one or several mixed elements are designed in a work. The result of the production of work is as follows : First, the design which made use of the element of Chima jegori make strong image of Korean dress. And by grafting several elements to one work, the more strong Korean image was created. Second, in the design which made use of ornaments and detailed decoration method, ideas are offered for detailed design skills. The materials which was investigated academically along with the study through the actual manufacturing are expected to become a foundation stone of making firm images of Korean dress and ornaments.

A Study on the Direction of the Elderly Theatre in Aged Society: Around the 'Hoechun Circus' in Dangjin (고령사회 노인연극의 지향점 고찰: 당진시 '회춘유랑단'을 중심으로)

  • Oh, Panjin
    • 한국노년학
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    • v.40 no.2
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    • pp.359-377
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    • 2020
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the direction of the elderly theatre by analyzing an example of the elderly theatre program which is attempted in a way of the welfare of senior citizens in terms of cultural support. To this end, the 'Hoechun Circus' composed of elderly women in Dangjin, South Chungcheong Province, was investigated and analyzed. Research methods uses a case study, performance theory, and peer review strategies to increase the validity of the study. The results of the study are as follows: Firstly, the elderly women intended to communicate with children and adolescents through performance; Secondly, they wanted to communicate with other physically uncomfortable elderly people; Thirdly, they also attempted to communicate with young or middle-aged as well as all residents; Fourthly, they experienced a new genre of theatre to identify themselves in a different ways and enhance their sense of accomplishment and spent their old age pleasantly and informally. Based on these findings, the following suggestions were made. First, we should expand the theatre programs of senior citizens which benchmark the 'Hoechun Circus'. Second, various cases of elderly theater should be studied and policy research to support such elderly theatre is necessary. Besides, educational courses to train elderly theatre experts should also be developed. Third, it should also seek ways for the program to move beyond regional limits and interact with organizations at home and abroad. Fourth, there is room to explore new ways in the field of theater therapy, and the development of sociodrama or psychodrama programs can be an alternative.

Isolation and Identification of Korean type Streptococcus mutans (한국형 Streptococcus mutans의 분리 및 동정)

  • 현성희;장성렬;최영길
    • Korean Journal of Microbiology
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    • v.27 no.3
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    • pp.250-258
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    • 1989
  • S. mutans known as a causative causative agent of dental caries was isolated from a carious lesion of Korean in the present study. The physiological, biochemical characteristics and polysaccharide pattern of these isolates were compated with those of four laboratory strains ; AHT(a), FA-1F(b), LM7(e), and OMZ65(g). One hundred strains of oral streptococci were isolated from dental caries sites of Korean (one male and one female). Among these, 3 strains were identified as S. mutans. These strains were able to grow on selective media MS, MST, MSP, MSP1, MSB, MSBT and were stained dark pink when sprayed with solutions of mannitol and TTC. So, these strains were called strain 108, 110, and 120, respectively. Strain 108, 110, and 120 were bacitracin resistnt. As these strains contained particularly hippurate hydrolysis enzyme, they were distinguished from laboratory strains. Apart from laboratory strains, the strain 108 was not capable of fermenting lactose, the strain 110 was not able to ferment sorbitol, inulin, melibiose, raffinose and the strain120 was incapable of fermenting inulin, raffinose. All fractions of extracellular and ecll bound polysaccharide of the strain108, 110, and 120 were consisted of more glucan than fructan. Aside from laboratory strains, the isolated strains were composed of more water-insoluble glucans related adherence on solid surface than water-soluble. According to these results, the strain108, 110, and 120 had native characteristecs of S. mutans, but they were different from laboratory strains in some characteristics. Therefore, each of them was given a name to S. mutans KHC108, KHC110, and KHC120, respcetively.

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Development of Fungal Sapstain in Logs of Japanese Red Pine and Korean Pine (소나무와 잣나무 원목에서 변재변색 발생)

  • Kim, Gyu-Hyeok;Kim, Jae-Jin;Ra, Jong-Bum
    • Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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    • v.30 no.2
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    • pp.128-133
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    • 2002
  • This study was conducted to investigate the influence of storage time on the sapstain development of Japanese red pine and Korean pine logs during storage in log yard, and their stain characteristics. Japanese red pine and Korean pine trees were harvested and cut into logs in mid January of 2001. These logs were transported to the two local sawmills where they were closely stacked in remote parts of log yard. The logs were then sampled destructively by cutting seven to nine 3-cm long discs along the length of each log at intervals of 3, 4, 5, 6, and 8 month after felling. The stain coverage and maximal radial penetration of stain were measured from the discs of the sampled logs after the isolation of causal staining fungi. The sapstain was primarily infested by the attack of bark beetles and the species of bark beetle was identified as Tomicus piniperda. The main fungal species isolated from stained wood was Ophiostoma species. Based on the present study, the logs could be stored in log yard until May without stain; but stain development was rapid after May and the severity of stain increased proportionally with storage time. Korean pine was more susceptible to fungal stain than Japanese red pine. During summer storage, decay started to develop in logs and the main species were identified as Tyromyces sp. and Schizophyllum commune. Information provided in this paper would be very useful to develop more effective control strategies for sapstain prevention in Japanese red pine and Korean pine logs.

Components and Antimicrobial Activity of Veiled Lady Mushroom, Dictyophora echinovolvata (흰돌기망태버섯(가칭; Dictyophora echinovolvata)의 일반성분 및 항미생물활성)

  • Cheong, Jong-Chun;Cho, Soo-Muk;Jeong, Joon-Ho;Park, Jeong-Sik;Chung, Bong-Koo;Lee, Dong-Chul
    • The Korean Journal of Mycology
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    • v.29 no.2
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    • pp.79-85
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    • 2001
  • A strain of Dictyophora echinovolvata ASI 32002 showing good fruiting body formation was selected. Analyses of chemical and nutritional components as well as antimicrobial activity of different parts of the mushroom such as mycelium, egg, and fruiting body were carried out. There were differences in the chemical compositions and the quantities depending on developmental stages of veiled lady mushroom, D. echinovolvata ASI 32002. Nitrogen, phosphate, magnesium, and calcium in inorganic chemicals were abundant in mycelium, and potassium and mineral elements were abundant in the egg and fruiting body. Mannitol and trehalose were abundant in free sugar contents. Glutamic acid and arginine in mycelium and aspartic acid and glutamic acid in egg and fruiting body were abundant in free amino acid contents. Linoleic acid, an polyunsaturated fatty acid, was abundant in all parts of the Dictyophora species, but compositions and quantities of other fatty acids varied depending on the different parts of the mushroom. It was detected that malic acid, lactic acid and acetic acid in mycelium, formic acid, acetic acid and fumaric acid in egg, and malic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, fumaric acid in fruiting body were abundant. The methanol extracts of D. echinovolvata ASI 32002 mycelium showed antifungal activity with minimal inhibition concentration (MIC) of $62{\sim}125\;{\mu}g/ml$ that was similar levels of cyclohexamide against Aspergillus awamori, Hypocrea nigricance and Trichoderma virens. The MIC of extracts from mycelium and fruiting body against Candida albicans was $250\;{\mu}g/ml$, similar to that of tetracycline. In addition to the above results, further as food additives and ingredient of cosmetics.

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