• Title/Summary/Keyword: 단직물

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Effect of Extraction Solvents on Color of the Dyed Fabrics with Safflower Red Colorants (홍화의 홍색소 추출 용제의 종류에 따른 색상 변화)

  • Son, Kyung-Hee;Shin, Youn-Sook;Yoo, Dong-Il;Choi, Hee;Cho, A-Rang
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.32 no.3
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    • pp.486-493
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    • 2008
  • Safflower red colorants extracted by two solvents including the traditional ash solution and $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution was used for dyeing cotton, ramie, viscose rayon, silk, wool, and nylon fabrics. The effects of extraction solvents on the reflectance, K/S value, and color properties of the dyed fabrics were investigated. Wash/dry cleaning and light colorfastness were evaluated. Reflectance curves of cotton, ramie, viscose rayon, and silk fabrics dyed with red colorants extracted by $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution were similar, showing the maximum absorption at 520nm, to that of the dyed fabrics with red colorants extracted by ash solution. The reflectance curves of wool and nylon fabrics were different, showing the maximum absorption at 400nm. K/S values of dyed fabrics with red colorants extracted by $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution were higher than that by ash solution with the exception of nylon. $L^{*},\;a^{*},\;b^{*}$, and $C^{*}$ of the dyed fabrics with red colorants extracted by $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution were higher than that by ash solution except for $L^{*}$ of nylon and $b^{*}$ of viscose rayon. Color difference(${{\Delta}E}^*$) of the dyed fabrics between ash solution and $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution increased in the order named as cotton, silk, ramie, viscose rayon, wool, and nylon. Regardless of extraction solvents, safflower red colorants produced RP color on cotton, ramie, and nylon, R color on viscose rayon and silk, and YR color on wool. Wash/dry cleaning fastness of the dyed fabrics was high above 3/4 rating but light fastness was very poor. It is considered that the use of $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution instead of the traditional ash solution would be more effective in terms of color reproducibility and extraction process.

Dynamic Shift-Share Analysis of FDI Inflow into Korea: Comparison to Developed Countries (동태적 변이-할당분석을 이용한 대한(對韓) 외국인직접투자 유입요인 분석: 선진국과의 비교)

  • Sohn, Jung-Soo;Cho, Jungran;Lee, Sanghack
    • International Area Studies Review
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    • v.18 no.3
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    • pp.23-46
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    • 2014
  • Applying the dynamic shift-share analysis, this paper decomposes inflow of foreign direct investment (FDI) of Korea for the period of 2003-2012 into three components: world growth effect, industry-mix effect and competitive effect. Taking the group of developed countries as population for comparison, this paper finds that Korea has been lagging behind the group of developed countries in attracting FDIs, thereby having recorded negative aggregate industry-mix effects and negative aggregate competitive effects as well. However, the following industries have recorded positive competitive effects: textiles, chemicals, electrical and electronic equipment, motor vehicles and other transport equipment, hotels and restaurants and business services. Moreover, in the sub-period of 2008-2012, positive competitive effects have been recorded for most manufacturing industries. This reflects the fact that inward FDI into Korea has not been affected much by the financial crisis of 2009.

A Study of Jik-geum Hyoong-bae Textile in the Early Joseon Dynasty (조선전기 직금흉배직물 연구)

  • Sim, Yeon-Ok
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.15 no.4
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    • pp.113-128
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    • 2013
  • Those records indicate that Jik-geum Hyoong-bae fabric was imported from China and its period was during the fourteen and fifteen century. Gold threads used in three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae artifacts were all wrapped gold thread and gold thread of Danryeong from Young-dukdong, Yong-in, did not have a base, but instead the gold foil itself was attached to the silk cord. Such form of artifact had never been discovered before in Korea. Wrapped gold thread of Seoknamdong's basis was presumably bamboo paper. Three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae have the same weave structure. The ground is woven in a warp-faced 5-end satin weave. The pattern is brocaded with supplementary gold wefts. Supplementary gold wefts are composed of 1/4 twill binding by the odd number pairs of warps within every group of 10 pairs of warps. All of the Jik-geum Hyoong-bae textile were designed and weaved according to the overlapped collared costume's structure. This is also known as 'Jik-seong-pil-ryo'. One symmetric collared jacket excavated in Seok-namdong, Incheon, only has the right half of Hyoong-bae in the front. This is because symmetric collared jacket was made from overlapped collared costume. Tiger and peacock are the main patterns of Jik-geum Hyoong-bae which have realistic and free screen composition and this shows a huge difference to the later generation's standardized Hyoong-bae pattern.

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Color Sensibility Image of Naturally Dyed Silk Fabric (천연염색 견직물의 색채감성 이미지)

  • Yang, Young-Ae;Yi, Eun-Jou
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.13 no.2
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    • pp.403-412
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    • 2010
  • This study was aimed to consider the influence of hue-tone, dyes, and mordants of naturally dyed silk fabric on color sensibility image factors and to establish color sensibility image scales of naturally dyed silk fabric by color and image descriptors. By single or sequential dyeing with various natural dyes commercially available in domestic and foreign market on the same silk fabric, a total of 66 colored fabric stimuli were prepared and they were used to evaluate subjective color sensibility image by 40 participants. As results, four different color sensibility image factors for naturally dyed silk fabric, 'delight', 'natural', 'modern' and 'attractive' were extracted. All of factors were significantly influenced by hue-tone, dyes, and mordants. Furthermore, by using color sensibility image adjectives and colors, multidimensional image scales were established, which leads to the conclusions that the results of this study help to design color sensibility-oriented naturally dyed fabric and apparel products.

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Real Time ECG Derived Respiratory Extraction from Heart Rate for Single Lead ECG Measurement using Conductive Textile Electrode (전도성 직물을 이용한 단일 리드 심전도 측정 및 실시간 심전도 유도 호흡 추출 방법에 관한 연구)

  • Yi, Kye-Hyoung;Park, Sung-Bin;Yoon, Hyoung-Ro
    • The Transactions of the Korean Institute of Electrical Engineers D
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    • v.55 no.7
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    • pp.335-343
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    • 2006
  • We have designed the system that measure one channel ECG by two electrode and extract real-time EDR with more related resipiration and comportable to subject by using conductive textile. On the assumption that relation between RL electrode and potential measurement electrode is coupled with RC connected model, we designed RL drive output to feedback two electrode for reduction of common mode signal. The conductive textile which was used for two ECG electrode was offered more comfort during night sleep in bed than any other method using attachments. In the method of single-lead EDR, R wave point or QRS interval area could be used for EDR estimation in traditional method, it is, so to speak, the amplitude modulation(AM) method for EDR. Alternatively, R-R interval could be used for frequency modulation(FM) method based on Respiratory Sinus Arrhythmia(RSA). For evaluation of performance on AM EDR and FM EDR from 14 subject, ECG lead III was measured. Each EDR was compared with both temperature around nose(direct measurement of respiration) and respiration signal from thoracic belt(indirect measurement of respiration) on mean squared error(MSE), cross correlation(Xcorr), and Coherence. The upsampling interpolation technique of multirate signal processing is applied to interpolating data instead of cubic spline interpolation. As a result, we showed the real-time EDR extraction processing to be implemented at micro-controller.

A Study of the Oriental Influences on Poiret's Designs (폴 푸아레의 디자인에 표현(表現)된 동양(東洋) 영향(影響)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究))

  • Park, Hye-Won;Cho, Kyu-Hwa
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.1 no.2
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    • pp.74-85
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    • 1997
  • 폴 푸아레 (1879-1944)가 패션 역사상 혁명적이라고 할 수 있는 여성의 코르셋을 제거시켰다는 것은 익히 알려진 사실이다. 그리고 그러한 결과로 인해 발생된 새로운 직선형의 실루엣에 화려한 색채와 장식을 하여 이전 시대와는 전혀 다른 현대패션의 근원이 되었다. 본 연구는 푸아레의 새로운 직선 실루엣과 화려한 색채와 경이적 장식의 근원이 다름아닌 동양이라는데 중점을 두었다. 이미 국내의 몇편의 논문에서 이러한 논의가 지적되어 왔으나 다른 논제를 다루는 중에 언급이 되었고 당시의 작품이나 동시대의 자료를 분석한 것이 아닌 근래의 출판물에 의존한 연구가 대부분이었다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 그의 동양풍 디자인의 근원을 밝히는데 있어 가능한한 1 차적 자료의 접근을 시도하였다. 1912년 작품인 이브닝 드레스, 터번, 숄, 구두 각 1점과 그의 작품 의도와 생애의 추구를 말해주는 자서전(1930년 불어본 및 1931년 영어본)과 보그(Vogue)지의 기사(1920년 2월호, 9월호) 등을 통하여 그의 동양에 대한 관심을 살펴보았다. 그 결과 푸아레의 동양 영향의 근원은 19세기 말 유럽에서 절정을 이룬 'Sino-Japonism'(중국-일본주의)의 심취, 러시아 발레단의 의상과 색채, 천일야화의 영향에 의한 중동(페르시아)에 대한 열망, 그리고 인도 토민병의 복식에서 비롯된 터번에의 매료 등이었음을 알 수 있었다. 이러한 근원에서 탄생된 디자인으로는 직선형의 튜닉, 기모노 소매(처음엔 푸아레 자신도 중국의 것으로 혼동을 하기도 했지만), 하렘팬츠, 비대칭적인 카프탄식의 코트, 원색의 사용, 극동지역의 직물과 문양, 술장식, 터번 등으로 나타내었다. 따라서 폴 푸아레의 동양적인 관심은 단지 개인적 '취향 혹은 취미(taste)'가 아니라 한 시대양식으로 자리잡은 '동양주의(Orientalism)'라 할 수 있으며 이러한 푸아레의 동양주의는 당시의 패션에 있어 신체의 선을 부정하여 코르셋을 제거 시키게한 그의 모더니즘의 근거가 된다. 본연구의 제한점으로 1차적 자료를 수집하는데에 있어 보다 폭넓지 못했던 점을 밝혀둔다.

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A Study on the Design of Official Costume of 16th Century Gineyo in Scholar's Banquet;Focusing on the Image Design for Cultural Contents (16세기 조선 기녀의 일반 연회(宴會) 규정복식 고증 디자인 연구;문화콘텐츠용 이미지 작업을 중심으로)

  • Choi, Hae-Yool
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.32 no.8
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    • pp.1322-1331
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to design an official costume of Joseon Ginyeo in the scholar’s banquet in 16th century, thereby making correct historical animation, drama costumes, and various costume contents. Every Ginyeo in and wore a long yellow coat with short front edge. 'Dan-ei', Ginyeo’s court costume, had very similar shape except color and collar, therefore the size of Dan-ei was adapted to design a yellow coat for drama actress. Ginyeo’s Jogori in these paintings was wide and long enough to cover undervelly under the edge of yellow coat, but It was designed more slim and long for better appearence and comfortable movement in my work. A skirt of Ginyeo was designed with circumference of about 360cm and length of about 105cm according as a skirt style of Joseon ladies in 16th century. Ginyeo's Jam(hairpin) was consist of a vase, a plum blossom, and a lotus pattern. And, a wide underpants with a single suspender, portable pouch, Un-hae(women’s shoes) with low heel are needed for drama actress in the role of Ginyeo. In this design, it is very important to save an estimate and time, select suitable mordern fabrics, reform discomportable points, express a charater’s role, and make a trendy appearence.

The Effect of the Base Layer on the Detection of Lines in Painted Cultural Heritage Using Infrared Photography (적외선 촬영법을 이용한 채색문화유산의 밑선 검출에 바탕층이 미치는 영향)

  • KWON Seoyun;JANG Yujin;LEE Hanhyoung;LEE Sanghyun
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.57 no.2
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    • pp.102-115
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    • 2024
  • Painted Cultural heritage uses various materials such as paper, silk, wood, soil, and lime as a base layer to draw on using ink sticks and express lines or colors using various colorants. The importance of underdrawings is emphasized when it comes to replication and preservation, as they can reveal the original drawing. Investigations using infrared have been extensively conducted to detect underdrawings. However, there has been a paucity of research on the influence of underdrawing detection according to the base layer. In this study, the effect of the base layer materials on underdrawing detection in painted cultural heritage was confirmed using an infrared camera and hyperspectral camera (900 to 1700 nm). The study samples marked '檢' with ink below the color layer (cinnabar, orpiment, malachite, azurite, white lead, and red lead) by the base layer materials: Paper (Dakji, indigo/Dakji), silk (silk, silk/white lead), wood (celadonite/wood), soil (celadonite/soil), and lime. The difference in the effect on underdrawing detection was minimal for paper and silk, and no significant differences were found between Dakji and indigo/Dakji, or between silk and silk/white lead. However, we found that celadonite/wood, celadonite/soil, and lime have a significant impact on underdrawing detection. In particular, for wood and soil painted with celadonite, underdrawings were not detected for all six color layers. In the case of lime, it was found that all color layers except malachite had a more positive effect on underdrawing detection. The findings of this study will aid in selecting the appropriate method for underdrawing analysis in the restoration of painted cultural heritage.

Fashion Color Planning Using Dyeing with Jeju Natural Resources (제주 천연자원의 염색을 활용한 패션 색채기획)

  • Ahn, Su-min;Sarmandakh, Badmaanyambuu;Yi, Eunjou
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.19 no.2
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    • pp.55-66
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    • 2016
  • This study was aimed to characterize the color of cotton fabric dyed with three different natural resources such as persimmon, citrus, and brown algae and to propose new trend color themes for fashion color planning for newborn and toddler wear. A variety of color shades by dyeing cotton fabric with persimmon, citrus, and brown algae respectively was obtained and each color was also determined if it could be matched with one of Pantone TPX considering authorized color trends for 2016 Spring/Summer. Finally a group of new trend color theme for 2016S/S newborn and toddler wear were proposed for naturally dyed cotton fabric. As results, the three natural dyeing resources gave color gamut with hue ranging from Purple Blue to Green Yellow and with tones including pale, light grayish, soft, grayish, and dull by their single and compound dyeing. A total of 23 colors matched to Pantone TPX were considered for the fashion color planning by natural dyeing. The selected natural colors were grouped as three different color ways and thereafter the color ways were differentiated in terms of representative color sensibility by using subjective evaluation. Finally three characterized color themes were proposed as 'Serenity', 'Juicy', and 'Fancy', each of which has tried to express differentiated feeling of each natural resources for dyeing, to follow up to global color trends, and to contribute to newborn and toddler wear's own requirements and marketability. These results suggest that natural dyeing colors could be applied into fashion color planning in current fashion industries in order to produce more sensible and emotional design of fashion goods using natural dyeing.