• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.484-498
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to explore the applicability of QFD to product development of clothes by empirically applying it to development of a specific clothes, middle and elderly women’s formal knitwear. The voices of customers(VOCs) for formal knitwear was collected through in-depth interviews with 25 customers, shop masters, and designers. Also, questionnaires of which respondents were 230 customers were used to rank the importance of the items of VOC. A QFD team of 10 knitwear experts implemented the task of translating VOCs into design attributes and measuring the values of the relationships between VOCs and design attributes. Importance ranking of the items of design attributes was obtained based on Lyman's method. The results of this study were as follows. First, the customer requirements for formal knitwear were classified into five dimensions, that is, symbolism, aesthetic, fitness, usefulness, and maintenance. Second, the descending order of the necessity of improving the quality was maintenance, aesthetic, fitness, usefulness, and symbolism. Third, three-staged design attributes were obtained as a result of translating of VOCs into design attributes. Lastly, the descending order of the importance of design attributes was "sorts of yarn", "sorts of color jacquard", "color", "tone", "ease", etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.11
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• pp.1812-1823
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• 2010

The modifiable design of clothes is significant in that a single garment can be presented in various ways and can be modified by user adjustments as well different kinds of figurative beauty can be expressed through the garment. This study departmentalized the case of knitwear in the modifiable design of clothes to propose a possibility of a variable knit fashion that makes the most of the knit characteristics. This study investigated precedent research, arranged general terms, created fundamental notions, found the background of the advent, and located specific characters in the modifiable design as well as arranged a concept, type, structure, and traits for the knit. The following results were obtained through this study. First, the modifiable design of the clothes can express the change of the silhouette and the change of the item itself or a change in the item according to the change in the mode of wearing, manipulation, and technology. Second, the results show that modifiable knit designs by open & close are mostly used according to manipulation and have no existence in this study according to the technology. Third, there was a noticeable appearance of a modifiable knit design from 2002 to 2004. However, it was increased again in 2009 after a steady decrease in 2005 and 2008. Finally, it can create effects in several dresses in the visual aspect and functional aspect.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.763-778
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• 2021

The study aims to analyze the mixed characteristics of knit fashion design as demonstrated in Sacai's collection, which promotes hybrid and mesh-up fusion and proposes various knit design ideas. Standards for categorizing mixed phenomena of Sacai's knit design were established through a review of literature and data analysis. The study's data collection period was from 2012 to 2021, and a total of 174 items were analyzed. The following are the results. First is the fusion of traditional knit and contemporary styles expressed through de-constructive design; traditional knit styles are combined with contemporary styles through color, material, and knitting structure mixtures, such as mixing Northern European Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy knit. Second, the Sakai knit design combines male and female styles by mixing materials and details. A deconstructed knit cardigan was matched with androcentric pin-striped shirts worn over layered shirring skirts embellished with chiffon and lace. Third, everyday street fashion style is blended with a formal, elegant fashion style. For example, the front view has a typical everyday appearance, whereas the back view contains florid and decorated details. The style is expressed as a 360-degrees appellation, with one thing in the front and another in the back. Sacai's distinctive expressional characteristics include a mixed and de-constructive style characterized by unexpected design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.17-31
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• 2022

The purpose of this research is to suggest diverse directions for eco-friendly knit designing through analyzing the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit designs. The first stage of the research was to explore the characteristics of eco-friendly fashion design based on literature review. The next stage was to categorize the characteristics of eco-friendly design found in Stella McCartney' knit fashion based on the precedent analysis. The data collected showed 274 examples from 40 Stella McCartney collections, including Spring, Resort, Pre-Fall, and Fall Ready-to-wear collections between 2013 and 2022. All information was collected using www.vogue.com. As a result, the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit design were classified into four directopms: 1) Perpetual Naturalism, 2) Cultural Complexity, 3) Practical Functionality, and 4) Subcultural Reproducibility. The first characteristic, 'Perpetual Naturalism' values the continuous symbiosis between animals and human beings, thereby protecting global environmental value. Stella McCartney's knit design continuously showed a longing for nature's beauty through fashion design, which allowed people to enjoy the meaning of symbiosis between human beings and animals. Second, 'Cultural Complexity' is the characteristic that appears in Stella McCartney's knit fashion design when collaborating with various artists and/or mixing traditional knit motives inspired by traditional cultures and retro moods. Third, 'Practical Functionality' is the design characterisitic that allows items to be worn for a long time as it is comfortable, simple, and practical. Stella McCartney's knit designs pursue easy-to-wear designs that are comfortable and have practical designs with simple details. Lastly, 'Subcultural Reproducibility' showed in Stella McCartney's knit designs reflect Hippie culture, which pursued a rejection of conventional values, and promoted sustainable energy. This culture peaked in the 1960s and 1970s, when 'Beatles' were mainly working. Additionally, retro styled knit designs inspired by other various music genres from the 1980s and 1990s appeared in this category as well.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.300-311
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate design process and production in the Korean knitwear industry and to examine the possibility for our knitwear industry to develop into the developed countries' model. This purpose was empirically pursued through questionnaires, of which respondents were 110 designers, merchandiser(MD), and top managers of knitwear companies and jobbers in Seoul. The questionnaires were analyzed on the basis of such statistical tools as χ²-test, t-test, and one-way ANOVA. Findings of this study were as follows. Designers of knitwear companies evaluated that their design is more creative than that of designers of jobbers. But designers of knitwear companies and jobbers all responded that they obtained their design ideas from samples produced by leading foreign knitwear companies. The dominant form by which knitwear companies use jobbers was that knitwear companies do a major part of designing and order jobbers to elaborate it and produce knitwear samples. The most important reason of hiring jobbers was to obtain specialized technical skills and knowledge.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.25-36
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressive technique of grunge look in knitwear fashion. For this study, I have investigated theories of retro and decontructionism trends, and have examined pictures from professional fashion magazines. The results of study on the expressive technique of grunge look reflected on the knitwear fashion were as follows; (1) patchwork technique, which is an outstanding method of recycling, (2) handknitting technique, which came from retro trend of hippism, (3) unfinished edge, which emphasized the image of poverty and incompleteness, (4) irregular lace knitting and slash technique, which is the typical details of grunge look and denies the traditional fashion order, (5) hand stitch technique using various materials, which gives second-hand mood of hippie look, and (6) fringe details, which originated from the unfinished edge technique.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.79-98
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze and document special design elements of the knit material, such as yarn, stitch, and gauge used in various types of knit in a collection of men's fashion, and to provide basic data for database design. The analysis covers 37 brand collections of men's clothing, used to collect a total of 1,954 men's knitwear photographs, and others were collected from 12 collections from F/W to 2017 S/S collection through www.vogue.com. The results of the analysis of the knit design elements of the contemporary men's collection since 2011 are as follows. First, there were 1,513 straight yarn (77%) and 440 decorative yarn (23%) types of yarn. There were many different kinds of decorative yarn, such as two tone and melange effect in three colors, and the emergence of hairy yarn, like mohair and angora shannell, which was much common in low gauge's knitwear designs. Second, the frequency was high with low and middle gauges. thin and light high-gauges were often found in S/S collections, but there were also thick types of yarn in low-gauge knitwear. Third, 794 (40.6%) items used basic stitches such as plain stitch, which was the most utilized. The plain stitch, which is the most basic of the knit stitches, appears to be in high demand for its use, along with the use of various decorators. The development of printing and dyeing technologies has led to many designs that utilize the printer for the plain stitch. 326 (16.7 %), of colored jacard stitch, and of 175 (0.9 %) of intasia stitch.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.148-165
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to establish a theory about the necessary structure for knitwear design, and to propose it with the practical data through the actual development of a high value added knit structure. For this study, the market was conducted along with literature reviews on the existing studies and the relevant books about knit structures. The market research aimed at the products released in the spring/summer and fall/winter seasons of 2012-2013, focusing on brand for middle aged women. The utilization of the structure by item and the characteristics of knit design were studied. The research was conducted on S/S products in May and July, and F/W products in October and December. As a result of the market research, it was shown that the lightweight structures with permeability such as plain, lace, links and links, this is repeated and rib structure were frequently utilized during the S/S season, while double structures with good shape stability were greatly utilized during the F/W season. Also, during the F/W season, a cable structure and tubular jacquard that emphasized the volume or cubic effect were frequently used, and there were many jacquard structures where a change of color sense and motive were added. Concerning the knit structures development, the researcher designed the knit structure at the actual production site of the knit fashion. A total of 5 pieces of knit structures were developed by asking a professional for programming and knitting. To the developed structures, the study added a multi-gauged effect, herringbone transformation effect, 3-dimensional surface effect, color effects, geometric patterns, lace penetration effect, and soft surface effect in a water-drop shape. In addition, the structures had differences in the added values by mixing various structures and diversely expressing color sense on the knitting line. This study proposes the direction for 21st century knitwear product design, through the development of a high value added knit structure.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.630-643
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• 2020

Recently, consumers have changed their role to consumers and producers who make what they want. The way clothes are produced is also needed to change according to modern consumption methods. Knitting Machine was one of them, and although it was a mass-produced device, it developed a device that could make clothes anywhere on a small production craze. Knit-making requires more consideration than other clothing designs, which requires consideration of users' web usability. Therefore, this study proposes an assessment tool that can evaluate web usability of clothing-making sites using knitting machines. To this end, the examples of the Knitting Machine program and custom product production websites and the each UI were investigated and analyzed. Based on these prior surveys, the draft evaluation items were drawn, and three Delphi surveys were conducted on the basis of the draft to produce assessment tools after classifying, modifying and deleting items. Through this study, we look forward to improving the usability of the customized product-making website of Knitting Machine in the future and popularizing the Knitting Machine.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.69-83
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• 2011

This study applied cartoon-like simple and implicit symbol of Keith Haring works to tubular jacquard knit, designed woman casual knit wear with fun, explicit and activities using fluorescent yarns with explicit features. This study aimed to propose the directions for new market pioneering that meets the emotional requirements of modern people by raising the level of utilization and expression area of knit fashion, and to present the constructive directions for high value-added knit wear by designing highly effective knit wear. Methods of this study examined the lifetime and artistic background of Keith Haring and collected his works through searching of internet, scholastic publications or thesis. Formative types and colors of works collected were analyzed and classified according to characteristic standards of Haring and characteristic formativeness and color of works were extracted. The result of this study is as shown below: First, the feature of his works can be summarized into motif that has symbolic and implicit cartoon-like lines including narratives as well as enormous number of works. Such feature is very suitable for variation and recombination in realization of design and has unlimited potentials for development. Second, image colors can be extracted such as black and white, original color and fluorescent paints, which reflects the intention of artist who put focus on communication with the public. Such color feature is very suitable for design motif that has explicitness of reflecting the intention of artist through use of special fluorescent yarn. Third, I made it as reversible wear that has effects of increasing or decreasing the explicitness according to color area ratio using the feature of textures allowing use of both sides as well as form stability of tubular jacquard. Fourth, by adjusting the thickness of fabric with controlling of ply in fabric using poly yarn and wool union yarn, I could obtain good results of study in terms of technique that can express various materials with embossed dynamic effects of unevenness on flat surface.