• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.95-109
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• 2022

This study was aimed at developing a new textile design based on the authentic and cultural resources of the Gangneung Subo pattern and applying the textile design to knitted fashion products. Gangneung has been recognized for its outstanding artistry in the field of Gyubang art. Gangneung Subo is an embroidered wrapping cloth. The discovered and preserved Subo at this time was from the Kwandong region centered in Gangeung, and is regarded as the product of the indigenous native culture in Kwandong. Therefore, as a representative cultural resource of Gangneung, the Gangneung Subo has sufficient value as a material for the development of cultural products with uniqueness, distinctiveness, and historicality. As a research method, the background of Gangneung Subo was investigated. A total of 12 motifs were created while preserving the authentic originality of the Gangneung Subo pattern and minimizing unwanted deformations of the pattern during the developing process. The created motifs were repeatedly applied to the pattern and new textile designs were created. Eighteen knit fashion products, including narrow and wide-width mufflers and neck warmers, were developed by applying the new textile designs. As a significant cultural resource for cultural goods development, this study ascertained the value of Gangneung Subo, preserving its unique distinction and history. This study was especially significant since the Gangneung cultural goods developed used knitted material and extended the development to producing real products.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.127-138
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• 2002

The recent fashion trend of knit wear is now changing to the various fibrous color combination which emphasizes the plain texture. It supports the human body curvature which is influenced by the slim style of woven wear. In this research work, the general characteristics and knit wear fashion trend are studied. The metallic fiber and fancy yarn are used widely as fiber materials for knit in nowadays. However, the light and functional materials are preferred. The general characteristics of knit which gives the feeling of light and warm are still prevailing using pure wool, kid mohair, and mixed wool with polyester. In order to provide the soft touch feeling, smoothness of fine fiber, and feeling of sponge, several kinds of finishing techniques such as bulky, felting, bonding, and quilting process are usually adopted. The knit wear fashion trend is mainly consisted of the basic design items, and it gives the feeling of luxurious and elegance. The more youthful feeling is adapted for the general style of knit wear of the certain target age. The woven wear trend such as season color, line and pattern are applied in knit wear trend in recent days.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.1274-1290
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• 2010

This study analyzed the design elements and fashion images of women's knitwear in collections of Paris, Milan, London and New York between 2003 and 2008, and examined knitwear trends in an effort to verify whether knitwear trends are repeated in certain cycles, whether they show complicated patterns in cycles and yet occur in quasi cycles, or whether they occur non-periodically in complicated forms of chaotic cycles. Trend cycle analysis results are deemed to identify the time series attribute of knit fashions. It also sought to categorize the attribute of various factors influencing knitwear trends with a view to determining relevancy between design elements, and to present the direction of predicting knitwear fashion trends and the progression of short-term knitwear trends. This study reached the following conclusion. According to design elements or fashion images, knitwear fashion trends occur in cycles, quasi cycles, non-periodical cycles. These cyclic characteristics can be used as scientific data for planning knitwear products. The study confirmed close relevancy between fashion images and fashion elements. It identified close relevancy between designs with similar fashion elements and images through coordinates by year and season, and it is possible to make short-term prediction of trend direction through the flow of coordinates. Time series data were insufficient, thereby making it difficult to perfectly verify chaos indices and giving limitations to this study. A study with more time series data will produce a more effective method of predicting and using knitwear fashion trends.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.511-520
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• 2013

This study examines the development of knitwear design using environmentally friendly Hanji (Korean traditional handmade paper) yarn. While its environmentally friendly features make Hanji yarn suitable for eco-fashion design, Hanji products, generally produced in limited quantities, are highly unlikely to become a commercial success due to their high prices. Therefore, a new technology allowing the production of low-cost Hanji yarn is in high demand, as is its application across multiple products in addition to knitwear. The significance of this study lies in that it suggests ways to design knitwear which reflect the versatility of modern eco-fashion to meet the needs of consumers. This study presents knitwear designs, specifically party wear and everyday fashion, that utilize the advantages of Hanji yarn and represent 2013 S/S color trends. Two outfits will be featured - one for women in their 20s and 30s and the other for women in their 30s and 40s. Also, this paper includes a literature review and an accounting of online research on Hanji yarn and eco-fashion designs.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.13-28
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of hippie style in emerging brands pursuing the hippie spirit, examine the changes in hippie style, and apply them to the design development process to propose a hippie style design that reflects contemporary characteristics. The research method of this study was used to grasp the characteristics and current status of hippie style based on a literature review and prior research. Through the analysis of Bode and Story mfg, a new brand that reflects the hippie spirit, the design expression methods and characteristics of modern hippie style were derived, and based on the analysis, the design of the 3D CLO virtual outfit was developed. The results of the study are as follows. First, in addition to the use of eco-friendly materials, the digital technology of the CLO 3D program was applied to the design development process, which made it possible to increase sustainability from the production process. Second, by creating a retro design centered on a striped pattern expressing freedom, revolution, and equality, and a handcrafted design based on a tie-dye pattern, the design was able to express the hippie spirit of loving nature, and through this, a new direction of eco-friendly and modern fashion design was presented.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.300-311
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate design process and production in the Korean knitwear industry and to examine the possibility for our knitwear industry to develop into the developed countries' model. This purpose was empirically pursued through questionnaires, of which respondents were 110 designers, merchandiser(MD), and top managers of knitwear companies and jobbers in Seoul. The questionnaires were analyzed on the basis of such statistical tools as χ²-test, t-test, and one-way ANOVA. Findings of this study were as follows. Designers of knitwear companies evaluated that their design is more creative than that of designers of jobbers. But designers of knitwear companies and jobbers all responded that they obtained their design ideas from samples produced by leading foreign knitwear companies. The dominant form by which knitwear companies use jobbers was that knitwear companies do a major part of designing and order jobbers to elaborate it and produce knitwear samples. The most important reason of hiring jobbers was to obtain specialized technical skills and knowledge.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.91-106
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• 2023

This study examines how the concept of gender fluidity-viewing gender identity as a fluid and wide spectrum-is represented in modern knit fashion collections. The period spring/summer 2017-fall/winter 2021, when gender-related fashion keywords started attracting attention, was limited to the last five years, and the results of a case analysis focused on a total of 357 knit fashion photos are as follows. First, the androgynous compromise through the mixing of heterogeneous elements appears as a mix-and-match style due to the patchwork of heterogeneous materials and forms that borrow or share masculinity and femininity. Second, it was confirmed that the dismantling exaggeration caused by the destruction of the size and form of clothes was an avant-garde image that exaggerated the size or length of clothes or destroyed ideas and forms. Third, the exposed sensuality caused by the deformation of the fluid knitting technique was shown in the form of proudly expressing sexuality by exposing the body either using the cut-out technique or through the loose texture of the knit. Knit fashion can highlight decorative effects using handcrafted techniques and express a detailed or coarse sense of organization depending on the density. In addition, since it is possible to create a complex image by juxtaposing and mixing various knit structures, it was confirmed that it is a suitable material for expressing gender fluidity flowing between men and women in fashion.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.180-197
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to create knit ruffles that represent the aesthetic and artistic values of painted works of art that rhythmically express flower petals and add an artistic impression on the knit ruffle designs. This study is based on the artistic life of Georgia O'Keeffe and changes in her artistic background, and the world of paintings. The relevant data was gathered from domestic and foreign references, academic journals, and the internet. The characteristics of Georgia O'Keeffe paintings were examined. Her paintings typically include a series of various motifs, symmetry, balance, and harmony of detailed realistic expressions and abstract elements, repetition, and the principles of contrast and emphasis in shaping. The decoration techniques used on fabrics were applied using the knitting machine which controls the tension to develop a variety of textures, apart from the previous standardized knit textures, through various knitting techniques. A gradation effect was then applied by piece-dyeing the knitted materials in various colors to express asimilarity to the original colors in O'Keeffe's works with delicate color expressions. After the piece-dyeing, the decorative knitted materials were trimmed on a model to re-create the natural curves of flower petals. This study aims to converge works of art with fashion designs to develop various creative knitted fashion and to impart an artistic sense in the fashion design industry.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권5호
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• pp.700-713
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics and symbolism of peony, the traditional noble flower, create knit fashion designer applying the aesthetic beauty of flower, and suggest the various possibility of developing knit fashion design. As for the study method, the study conducted review on literature and previous studies to investigate on history, characteristics, symbolism of peony, and examined various expressive technique through previous studies about fashion design using flower images. To express characteristics of peony in three dimensions, the study investigated and reflected on crochet expressive technique to design 4 women's knitwear. The results are as below. First, as shape of peony is big, voluminous, fancy and noble, it symbolizes wealth and beauty. Including red which is the generally known color of peony, there are yellow, white, pink, purple, green, blue, black, gray, white purple, white color. This study reflected characteristics and symbolism of peony and created knit fashion design applying abundant aesthetic characteristics of flower. Second, crochet method is advantageous as it is operable with thread and hooked crochet hook without time and space restriction, it can create unique fashion design. Crochet knitting on hand knit can diversity changes to express relief textures, and as there is no limit in size, it can be applied to small props to big pieces. This study suggested the various possibility of knit fashion design development and various expressive possibility on modern fashion design.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.148-165
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to establish a theory about the necessary structure for knitwear design, and to propose it with the practical data through the actual development of a high value added knit structure. For this study, the market was conducted along with literature reviews on the existing studies and the relevant books about knit structures. The market research aimed at the products released in the spring/summer and fall/winter seasons of 2012-2013, focusing on brand for middle aged women. The utilization of the structure by item and the characteristics of knit design were studied. The research was conducted on S/S products in May and July, and F/W products in October and December. As a result of the market research, it was shown that the lightweight structures with permeability such as plain, lace, links and links, this is repeated and rib structure were frequently utilized during the S/S season, while double structures with good shape stability were greatly utilized during the F/W season. Also, during the F/W season, a cable structure and tubular jacquard that emphasized the volume or cubic effect were frequently used, and there were many jacquard structures where a change of color sense and motive were added. Concerning the knit structures development, the researcher designed the knit structure at the actual production site of the knit fashion. A total of 5 pieces of knit structures were developed by asking a professional for programming and knitting. To the developed structures, the study added a multi-gauged effect, herringbone transformation effect, 3-dimensional surface effect, color effects, geometric patterns, lace penetration effect, and soft surface effect in a water-drop shape. In addition, the structures had differences in the added values by mixing various structures and diversely expressing color sense on the knitting line. This study proposes the direction for 21st century knitwear product design, through the development of a high value added knit structure.