• Human Ecology Research
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• 제57권1호
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• pp.91-107
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• 2019

The use of standardized stitches in globalized apparel markets is becoming increasingly important. However, many apparel vendors still use disunified stitches, such as Japanese and English. This study analyzes the usage of clothing stitches of cut and sewn knit garment fabrication of small companies. The results of the analysis of 464 worksheets of cut and sewn knit garments are as follows. First, of the 464 worksheets, only 4.31% are labeled as ISO 4915 No. Among the 1,399 stitches, only 3.15% were marked with the ISO 4915 No. Second, among 1,399 stitches, ISO 4915 No. 406 followed by 401 was the most frequently used. Third, in the case of the top, ISO 4915 No. 406 was used the most; in addition, ISO 4915 No. 401, 301 and 304 were also frequently used. Fourth, in the case of the bottoms, the stitch with the highest frequency was ISO 4915 No. 406 followed by ISO 4915 No. 103 and 401, respectively. Fifth, in the case of the top, ISO 4915 No. 406 was most commonly used in hemlines and sleeve edges; in addition, in the case of the bottoms, ISO 4915 No. 406 and 103 were most commonly used as hemlines. In conclusion, it is important to use international standard stitches, especially for the most frequently used stitches. By using the standard stitches, the communication errors between production departments can be reduced and information can be accurately delivered.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2019

This study examined the cause of the phenomenon of shrinkage in machine-embroidered fabrics, specifically those made of thin and pliable fabrics. Four woven fabrics and two knitted fabrics were selected as samples for analysis. The fabrics selected were silk organza, flax linen, polyester chiffon, cotton batiste, polyester raschel mesh, and cotton jersey. The thickness and drapability of the fabrics were observed and the shrinkage of the various types of embroidered fabrics produced using satin & step stitch techniques were measured. Moreover, the correlation between the shrinkage of the machine-embroidered fabrics and the drapability of the original fabrics was analyzed. Also, the colorfastness of six embroidery yarns was determined. The results of the study are as follows: first, the shrinkage of machine-embroidered fabrics increased at a greater rate than in embroidered knitted fabrics as compared to rates in embroidered woven fabrics. Moreover, in terms of stitch techniques, there was a greater shrinkage rate when satin stitch was applied compared to step stitch. Second, the shrinkage rate of machine-embroidered fabrics decreased when a stabilizer was fused onto the fabric. The shrinkage rate also decreased for fabrics when fused with paper stabilizer compared to those without it, and the rate decreased at a greater amount with paper stabilizer as compared to alginate film. Third, since there was a strong correlation between the shrinkage rate of the embroidered fabric and the drapability ratio of the original fabric, it was generally the case that the more pliable the fabric was, the greater the shrinkage rate was when the fabric was embroidered. Fourth, while the embroidery yarns mainly used in machine-embroidery presented an overall excellent level of colorfastness, there was slight color migration of level 4 to level 5 when using viscose rayon.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권6호
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• pp.787-800
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• 2020

This study aims to derive the criteria of folding techniques and their characteristics through analysis of literature and previous studies. This will be realized by performing a case study on male fashion design and folding. It will propose diverse directions and data for male fashion design, by making men's jackets using a folding technique. The concept and terms of folding were clarified through examination of existing literature and previous studies. Specifically, four pieces were created with motifs of the four seasons. Among the types of pleats expressed in the works, composition pleats include double ruffles, gathers, and draperies, while processed ones include box pleats, knife pleats, and accordion pleats. This study expresses continuity, fluidity, scalability, and ambiguity through the use of such pleats. The results of the production are as follows. First, in terms of the continuous use of regular and repetitive pleats, a possibility of rich pleats was confirmed because they varied depending on the gap between the pleat and target material. Second, in liquid but irregular pleats, diverse moods were created by the pleat movement. The overlapping of repeated pleats expresses diverse spaces and shapes in a 3D extended silhouette. Third, in pleat classification, ambiguity was confirmed with the use of continuous accordion pleats in the printed gradation fabric. It is anticipated that more diverse and creative designs could be created using more extended techniques in future studies.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권5호
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• pp.732-751
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• 2022

In this study, we aimed to apply 3D digital printing to basic clothing production and to propose futuristic fashion design and production methods that correspond to contemporary trends. Literature on future trends, dynamism, mechanical aesthetics, and experimentalism were used to define the characteristics of "futurism." Based on theoretical considerations about futurism, we created fashion designs using 3D digital printing methods. These designs were produced using the aesthetic characteristics of futurism; the 3D digital clothing program; and application of digital printing technologies to futuristic silhouettes, colors, and materials. The results were as follows: First, with the application of futurism as a fashion motif, we pursued collaboration between artistic work and fashion, and we then explored the possibility of creative expression. Second, harmony between achromatic and chromatic colors revealed even better dynamism and activeness, and the potential to express dynamism was observed. Third, with the development of fashion design processes based on 3D digital printing methodologies, it was found to be possible to eliminate the limitations of time and space, solve problems related to limited budget or communication, and positively influence the fashion industry by enhancing convenience and diversity. Fourth, with the development of fashion design that utilizes digital printing, it was found that problems related to time, space, or limited budget were able to be solved, as compared to the use of traditional printing and image reproduction.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.13-28
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of hippie style in emerging brands pursuing the hippie spirit, examine the changes in hippie style, and apply them to the design development process to propose a hippie style design that reflects contemporary characteristics. The research method of this study was used to grasp the characteristics and current status of hippie style based on a literature review and prior research. Through the analysis of Bode and Story mfg, a new brand that reflects the hippie spirit, the design expression methods and characteristics of modern hippie style were derived, and based on the analysis, the design of the 3D CLO virtual outfit was developed. The results of the study are as follows. First, in addition to the use of eco-friendly materials, the digital technology of the CLO 3D program was applied to the design development process, which made it possible to increase sustainability from the production process. Second, by creating a retro design centered on a striped pattern expressing freedom, revolution, and equality, and a handcrafted design based on a tie-dye pattern, the design was able to express the hippie spirit of loving nature, and through this, a new direction of eco-friendly and modern fashion design was presented.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.114-123
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• 2014

This research investigated the physical properties of PET coolness filaments and their knitted fabrics including dyeing characteristics of these knitted fabrics according to the different dyeing time and temperature. The coolness filament(S) with non-circular cross-section and hydrophilic property was spun and another commercialized coolness(A) and regular(R) PET filaments were prepared for comparing coolness and another physical properties. Qmax of coolness knitted fabric made with S filament was higher than that of R-PET filament, and the maximum value of Qmax of S knitted fabric was shown at the dyeing conditions of temperature, $110^{\circ}C$ with 30 min. or 40min. It was shown that hand of S knitted fabric was a little harsh comparing to A and regular knit specimens, but shape retention and wearing performance of garment made with S knit specimen were estimated as good owing to high bending and shear rigidity. K/S of S knitted fabric was higher than those of regular PET and A knit specimens. Dyeing fastness of coolness knitted fabric showed between 4th and 5th grade.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.334-345
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• 2011

A study on compressive garments guarantee the required pressure and form depending on the type of disease and the state of injury can be used in the preventive treatment of cardiovascular disease. This research is to provide a preliminary data to develop medical clothing products, especially knitted compression garments. Starting from analyzing knitted structure of imported pressure goods to apply to test samples, 11 kinds of knitted stretchy fabrics were manufactured under the various knitting conditions, then their tensile, mechanical and hand properties were measured. In comparison size changes by knitting structure, tuck stitch applied structure showed an increase in course direction and decrease in wale direction. Float stitch applied structure indicated the contraction of size in width because of unformed loops and floated yarn on the technical back of fabric. As a result of tensile properties in tuck and float applied structure, tensile strength was increased in the course direction. On the other hand, the more loops overlapped due to the tuck and float stitch, the more decreased their elongation and elastic recovery were. In case of mechanical properties, as the tuck and float stitch were overlapped double or triple the bending and shearing properties were risen. Accordingly, the drape of fabric becomes stiff, and its surface becomes rough and uneven. The measurements of hand properties showed that the value of KOSHI, FUKURAMI NUMERI in tuck and float applied structure are higher than the plain structure. This results from the relationship between the mechanical and hand properties.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.177-190
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• 2016

On-line consumer reviews are good references for consumers to evaluate and buy apparel products. The objective of this study is to facilitate communication about performance textiles between consumers and merchandisers who buy and sell apparel products on online. The survey was based on standardizing words used in consumer reviews written after purchase of summer knit t-shirts at internet shopping mall and evaluating the performance textiles including cellulose fibers. We collected reviews of five sorts of the clothing products including cotton/modal, tencel/polyurethane, polyester/rayon, linen, cotton and selected 1000 reviews related to textiles. For classifying each word used in the reviews by the performance textiles, they were quantified applying same standards. The results were as follow: First, the standard for consumer to consider importantly was tactile sensation, appearance, pilling, thickness, dimensional stability in washing. Second, the important category of performance textiles was healthy-comfort and psychological-comfort. Third, there were difference performance textiles for consumer to recognize, e.g. cotton/modal was important to air-permeability, tencel/polyurethane was noticed about tactile sensation, polyester/rayon was perceived about pilling unlike other things, linen had a problem of clothing care-convenience, then cotton was familiar fiber to important for appearance. The last, consumers usually focused on writing the most positive or negative online reviews. Although not familiar with professional terminologies, consumers are sensitive to physical properties of textiles. Therefore, standardizing and evaluating performance textiles are expected to improve satisfaction as providing objective information to consumers considering in buying apparel products at online shopping mall and increase in revenue to manufacturer.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제58권3호
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• pp.357-374
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• 2020

This study suggests the use of standardized sewing terms for the construction of smart sewing systems. This study analyzed the use of stitches (ISO 4915) and seams (ISO 4916) for cut and sewn knit garment which are the basic elements of sewing on an ISO basis. The results of the analysis of sewing specifications of cut and sewn knit garments are as follows. First, the use of stitches and seams were analyzed. As a result, both stitches and seams were used as non-standard terms. Second, among 3,263 stitches, ISO 4915 No. 406 followed by 401, 504, 605 were the most frequently used; however, ISO 4915 No. 514 was anticipated the most because the ISO 4915 No. 514 used for joining was not recorded in the sewing specification. Finally, the use of stitch for each seam was analyzed. The most common stitch used for ISO 4916 No. 6.02.07 was ISO 4915 No. 406. In addition, when it was sewing ISO 4916 No. 4.04.01, ISO 4915 No. 504 was used in step 1, and ISO 4915 No. 406, 602, and 605 were used in step 2. It is important to use the international standard sewing terms for the production site based on the results. In addition, the construction of smart sewing systems and the work of international standardization through industry-university cooperation are important for securing global competitiveness. Therefore, the use of international standard terminology and practical training should be conducted with a focus on stitching and seams with high frequency of use.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.22-31
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• 2014

This study investigated the physical properties of warm up yarns and their knitted fabrics including the dye affinity and color fastness to washing of these knitted fabrics according to the various dyeing times and temperatures on dyeing process. The results were summarized as follows. The tenacity of Nylon/PP warm-up yarn was 4g/d and breaking strain was 4.5%. The wet and dry thermal shrinkages were higher than those of PET warm-up yarn. The maximum heat flow rate(Qmax) of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric was lower than that of PET warm-up knitted fabric and heat keeping rate(a) of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric was higher as 47% than that of PET warm-up knitted fabric. It was shown that the shape retention and wearing comfort of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric were better than those of PET warm-up knitted fabric. The dye-affinity(K/S) of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric showed maximum value at the dyeing condition of 40minute or 50minute dyeing time with $80^{\circ}C$ dyeing temperature, but PET warm-up knitted fabric showed maximum value at the 30minute or 40minute with $110^{\circ}C$ dyeing temperature. Finally, the color fastness to washing of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric showed good value as between 4 and 5 grade.