• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.394-404
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• 2013

In the present study, the characteristics of spectral peakedness parameter $Q_p$, bandwidth parameter ${\varepsilon}$, and spectral width parameter ${\nu}$ were analyzed as a first step to define the swell waves quantitatively. For the analysis, the joint probability density function of significant wave heights and peak periods were newly developed. The MCMC(Markov Chain Monte Carlo) simulations have been performed to generate the significant wave heights and peak periods from the developed probability density functions. Applying the simulated significant wave heights and peak periods to the theoretical wave spectrum models, the spectral shapes parameters were obtained and analyzed. Among the spectral shape parameters, only the spectral peakedness parameter $Q_p$, is shown to be independent with the significant wave height and peak wave period. It also best represents the peakedness of the spectral shape, and henceforth $Q_p$ should be used to define the swell waves with a wave period. For the field verification of the results, wave data obtained from Hupo port and Ulleungdo were analyzed and results showed the same trend with the MCMC simulation results.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.295-302
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• 2007

Abnormally high waves occurring at the east coast of korea were observed at five field measurement stations and their characteristics were analyzed with the use of wind data provided by the Korean Meteorological Administration. The high waves occurred because strong Donghae twister that was developed by extratropical cyclone blew while high swell arrived at the east coast of Korea. At Sokcho, the most northern site among the five measurement stations, maximum gust speed was 63.7 m/s and significant wave height reached at its maximum of 9.69 m with the corresponding peak wave period of 12.8 s. The reason for appearance of the abnormally high waves is that high swell continued while the twister blew strongly. Moreover, the wind direction was the same as the direction of swell propagation, which maximizes the increase of wave height due to superposition of swell and wind-generated waves. On the east coast of Korea, outbreak of this type of storm waves is very probable in winter season so that it is requested to establish a countermeasure of minimizing possible damage caused by the storm waves.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2023.11a
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• pp.38-39
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• 2023

기존 등부표, 등명기 점검 시 사다리를 타고 상단에 올라가서 등명기를 점검하며, 너울성 파도 등으로 인하여 등부표가 기울어질 경우 추락사고가 발생할 수 있어 이를 예방하기 위해 엘리베이터 폴을 적용하여 등명기를 표체까지 하강시켜 안전하고 용이하게 점검할 수 있는 시스템 개발에 관한 것이다. 또한, 강철로 제작하는 표체를 탄소섬유로 제작하여 경량화하고 침추 무게, 투입 해상장비의 규모를 줄여 공사비를 절감하는 기대효과를 가질 수 있다.

• Geophysics and Geophysical Exploration
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.240-249
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• 2013

The seismic data quality of marine geological and engineering survey deteriorates because of the sea swell. We often conduct a marine survey when the swell height is about 1 ~ 2 m. The swell effect correction is required to enhance the horizontal continuity of seismic data and satisfy the resolution less than 1 m. We applied the swell correction to the 8 channel high-resolution airgun seismic data and 3.5 kHz subbottom profiler (SBP) data. The correct sea bottom detection is important for the swell correction. To detect the sea bottom, we used maximum amplitude of seismic signal around the expected sea bottom, and picked the first increasing point larger than threshold value related with the maximum amplitude. To find sea bottom easily in the case of the low quality data, we transformed the input data to envelope data or the cross-correlated data using the sea bottom wavelet. We averaged the picked sea bottom depths and calculated the correction values. The maximum correction of the airgun data was about 0.8 m and the maximum correction of two kinds of 3.5 kHz SBP data was 0.5 m and 2.0 m respectively. We enhanced the continuity of the subsurface layer and produced the high quality seismic section using the proper methods of swell correction.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.178-189
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• 2004

For designing a reliable harbor, a methodology for estimating design waves of 97.5% operable harbor condition is suggested using long-term wave data. For a practical application of the methodology, a marine police harbor was selected as a site. Wave data used were collected from February 1993 to December 2003 at Jodo wave gage station in front of Pusan harbor. Joint distributions of significant wave height and significant wave period for specified wave directions were obtained and used to feed as input waves for parabolic mild-slope wave model. Results showed that input waves with significant wave height of 1.75 m, significant wave period off sec and wave direction E yield design waves height of 1.06 m at the site of interests, which is a 97.5% operable harbor condition. Wind waves generated inside harbor showed to be no effect on the design wave condition. Swells propagated from deep water into harbor are shown to be dominant effects on the design waves of operable harbor condition.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.226-235
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• 2011

Field measurements of the winds and waves were carried out for one year at multiple locations inside and outside of the Pohang New Harbor in order to clarify the reason of downtimes frequently occurring at most of the harbor quays and to establish an efficient countermeasure. In addition, the downtime records of the quays and precipitation data provided by Korea Meteorological Agency were acquired for mutual comparison and comprehensive analysis of the cause of downtimes. Except the influence of precipitation, it was found that the downtimes occurred when the height of waves entering into the harbor incurred by either one of swell, wind seas, or mixture of both, exceeded a threshold. The seiche whose period ranges from 5 to 80 minutes, which was suspected as a possible cause of the downtimes, is shown to have no direct relation with the downtimes. Meanwhile, the height of far-infra-gravity waves whose period ranges between 0.5 and 3 minutes, propagating to the harbor mouth forced by short period waves, showed almost proportional relationship with the height of short period waves. Based on the result of this study, it is concluded that the downtime problems of Pohang New Harbor can be greatly improved by effectively preventing the entrance of short period waves such as swell or wind seas.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.286-297
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• 2018

In the present study, wave measurements at KOGA-W01 were analyzed and then the numerical wind waves simulations have been conducted to investigate the characteristics of wind waves in the Yellow sea. According to the present analysis, even though the location of the wave stations are close to the coastal region, the deep water waves are prevailed due to the short fetch length. Chun and Ahn's (2017a, b) numerical model has been extended to the Yellow Sea in this study. The effects of tide and tidal currents should be included in the model to accommodate the distinctive effect of large tidal range and tidal current in the Yellow Sea. The wave hindcasting results were compared with the wave measurements collected KOGA-W01 and Kyeockpo. The comparison shows the reasonable agreements between wave hindcastings and measured data, however the model significantly underestimate the wave period of swell waves from the south due to the narrow computational domain. Despite the poorly prediction in the significant wave period of swell waves which usually have small wave heights, the estimation of the extreme wave height and corresponding wave period shows good agreement with the measurement data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.81-95
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• 2014

In the present study, the statistical analysis on the storm waves in the East Sea have been carried out, and the several storm waves were reproduced by the modified WAM as a first step for the accurate and prompt forecasting and warning against the swell waves in East Sea. According to the present study, the occurrences of the storm waves from the North were the most probable, while the waves from the Northeast were most frequently observed. It was found that the significant wave heights of storm waves from the North and Northern northeast were larger than those of storm waves from the Northeast. But due to long fetch distance, the significant wave periods of storm waves from the Northesast were longer than those of North and Northern northeast. In addition to the wave analysis, the numerical experiments for the storm waves in East Sea were carried out using the modified WAM, and three periods of storm waves in 2013 were calculated. The numerical results were well agreed with wave measurements. However the numerical simulation results in shallow water region showed lower accuracies compared to deep water, which might be due to lower resolution of wind field and bottom topography caused by large grid size, 5 minute, adopted in the present study. Overall computational efficiency of the modified WAM found to be excellent compared to original WAM. It is because the modified WAM adopted the implicit scheme, thereby the present model performed 10 time faster than original WAM in computation time.

• Korean Journal of Remote Sensing
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.95-100
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• 2012

Big swell is often generated offshore and damages the coasts after travelling long distance. In order to prevent coastal damages, wave measurements should be performed offshore as well as coastal waters around Korea. However, in-situ wave measurements are difficult because of high expense of instruments and high risk of operation. Satellite wave measurements using altimeter make it possible to get wave information from the sea difficult to execute field measurements such as the center of the East Sea or exclusive territorial waters. In order to use wave information from the satellite altimeter, it is important to verify altimeter wave data with in-situ data. This paper examines significant wave height data observed by ENVISAT altimeter by comparing wave data observed at Ieodo station.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.55-68
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• 2020

In order to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of a boundary layer streaming over the beach cusps appeared in swells prevailing mild seas, we numerically simulated the shoaling process of Edge waves over the beach cusp. Synchronous Edge waves known to sustain the beach cusps could successfully be duplicated by generating two obliquely colliding Edge waves in front of beach cusps. The amplitude A_B and length L_B of Beach Cusp were elected to be 1.25 m and 18 m, respectively based on the measured data along the Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that boundary layer streaming was formed at every phase of shoaling process without exception, and the maximum boundary layer streaming was observed to occur at the crest of sand bar. In RUN 1 where the shortest waves were deployed, the maximum boundary layer streaming was observed to be around 0.32 m/s, which far exceeds the amplitude of free stream by two times. It is also noted that the maximum boundary layer streaming mentioned above greatly differs from the analytical solution by Longuet-Higgins (1957) based on wave Reynolds stress. In doing so, we also identify the recovery procedure of natural beaches in swells prevailing mild seas, which can be summarized such as: as the infra-gravity waves formed in swells by the resonance wave-wave interaction arrives near the breaking line, the sediments ascending near the free surface by the Phase II waves orbital motion were carried toward the pinnacle of foreshore by the shoreward flow commenced at the steep front of breaking waves, and were deposited near the pinnacle of foreshore due to the infiltration.