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http://dx.doi.org/10.9765/KSCOE.2013.25.6.394

Analysis of the Wave Spectral Shape Parameters for the Definition of Swell Waves  

Ahn, Kyungmo (School of Spatial and Environmental Engineering, Handong Global University)
Chun, Hwusub (Department of Coastal Management, Geosystem Research Corporation)
Jeong, Weon Mu (Coastal Development and Ocean Energy Research Division, Korea Institute of Ocean Science and Technology)
Park, Deungdae (Department of Coastal Management, Geosystem Research Corporation)
Kang, Tae-Soon (Department of Coastal Management, Geosystem Research Corporation)
Hong, Sung-Jin (Disaster Prevention Research Division, National Disaster Management Institute)
Publication Information
Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers / v.25, no.6, 2013 , pp. 394-404 More about this Journal
Abstract
In the present study, the characteristics of spectral peakedness parameter $Q_p$, bandwidth parameter ${\varepsilon}$, and spectral width parameter ${\nu}$ were analyzed as a first step to define the swell waves quantitatively. For the analysis, the joint probability density function of significant wave heights and peak periods were newly developed. The MCMC(Markov Chain Monte Carlo) simulations have been performed to generate the significant wave heights and peak periods from the developed probability density functions. Applying the simulated significant wave heights and peak periods to the theoretical wave spectrum models, the spectral shapes parameters were obtained and analyzed. Among the spectral shape parameters, only the spectral peakedness parameter $Q_p$, is shown to be independent with the significant wave height and peak wave period. It also best represents the peakedness of the spectral shape, and henceforth $Q_p$ should be used to define the swell waves with a wave period. For the field verification of the results, wave data obtained from Hupo port and Ulleungdo were analyzed and results showed the same trend with the MCMC simulation results.
Keywords
swell waves; joint probability density function; parameter of the wave spectral shape; spectral peakedness parameter; bandwidth parameter; spectral width parameter; MCMC;
Citations & Related Records
Times Cited By KSCI : 2  (Citation Analysis)
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