• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.04a
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• pp.41-41
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• 2001

본 연구는 1990년대 밀리터리 패션에서 성적 이미 지의 표현양상을 살펴보고 각각의 미적 특성과 형성 요인을 분석하여 현대 여성의 다양한 미적 가치와 미의식을 이해하고자 한다. 1, 2차 세계대전을 계기로 자연스럽게 등장한 밀 리터리 패션은 20세기 초반에 여성의 사회참여와 지 위 향상으로 인해 실용성과 기능성을 추구하였고 중 반에 들어서면서 히피와 젊은 세대들에 의해 반전운 동의 일환으로 입혀져 안티패션의 의미를 내포하게 되었으며 후반에는 포스트모더 니즘으로 인해 다양성 을 추구하는 복고풍의 패션 트랜드로서 각종 컬혜션 에서 부각되었다. 그 결과 밀리터리 패션은 기존의 남성적 이미지뿐만 아니라 여성적 이미지도 표현하 게 되었다. 이러한 밀리터리 패션에 나타난 성적 이 미지는 권위적 이미지와 공격적 이미지의 남성적 이 미지와 보수적 이미지와 과시적 이미지, 관능적 이미 지의 여성적 이미지로 표현되어 나타났다. 남성적 이미지는 자유주의 페미니즘과 관련하여 남성 중심적 사고 방식에 도전하고자 하는 여성들의 자아의식이 한층 강하게 작용한 일종의 반 패션 현 상으로 권위적 이미지와 공격적 이미지로 특정지을 수 있다. 첫째, 권위적 이미지는 주로 고전적 군복과 제복의 이미지를 차용해 군복이 가지는 권위와 위엄을 표출 하였으며 남성 우월주의에 기초한 영웅주의를 가시 적으로 표현하였다. 이는 떳떳하게 자신의 위치를 세 우고자 하는 여성들의 욕구를 대변하였으며 영웅주 의와 가부장제도가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 둘째, 공격적 이미지는 권위적 이미지에 대한 저 항과 기존의 성 정체성에 대한 저항으로써 전위적인 형태와 해체적인 표현으로 본래의 위엄있는 군복의 이미지를 무너뜨려 남성다웅의 표면적인 메시지를 약화시키고자 하였으며 반체제 정신, 성 정체성에 대 한 저항, 해체주의가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 여성적 이미지는 급진주의 페미니즘과 관련하여 여성 본래의 성을 부각시키고 여성이 주체가 된 여 성중심적 사고로 여성의 감성적 심리를 패션을 통해 표현하고자 하였으며 보수적 이미지, 과시적 이미지, 관능적 이미지로 특징 지을 수 있다. 첫째, 보수적 이미지는 남성적 영역이라고 믿어왔 던 군복에 여성성을 강조하여 가늘고 유연한 실루엣 과 곡선적인 라인, 색채. 심플한 디테일만으로 밀리 터리 패션을 표현하여 남성중심의 이데올로기에서 벗어나 여성도 사회의 중심이 될 수 있음을 시사하 였으며 남성 권위의 추락이 그 형성요인으로 작용하 였다. 둘째, 과시적 이미지는 전통적 군복이 과거의 상 류층 엘리트들만의 아이템이었듯이 현대의 여성들은 신분과 매력의 과시를 표현하고자 금속 단추나 벨트 등 기타장식을 부각시킨 밀리터리 패션을 착용하였 으며 엘리트층에 대한 동경이 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 셋째, 관능적 이미지는 신체의 간접적인 노출과 직접적인 노출을 통해 여성의 신체에 의한 에로틱한 관능미를 부여하고자 하였으며 나르시시즘과 보이고 자 하는 욕구, 성적 유희가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 그러므로 밀리터리 패션에 나타난 성적 이미지에 관한 연구는 패션을 통해 자아를 표현하고 미적으로 자기완성의 방편을 삼으려고 한 현대 여성들의 가치 관과 미의식을 이해하며 이를 충족시키고자 하는 패 션 트랜드와 디자인 개발에 도움이 될 것이다.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.167-178
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to research male consumers' shopping behavior according to their fashion consciousness. For the purpose, the data collected were analyzed by factor analysis, one-way ANOVA, Duncan's multiple range test X2-test, and Pearson's correlation. The results of the study are as follows: 1. Male consumers' fashion consciousness were classified into 4 groups-Impulse Buying Consciousness Group, Brand Consciousness Group, Style Consciousness Group, and Fashion Indifference Group-by the following 6 factors: Impulse Buying Consciousness, Brand Consciousness, Style Consciousness, Trend Consciousness, Price Consciousness, Consumption Expenditure Consciousness. 2. There were significant differences existed among each group according to clothing purchase behavior, shopping orientation, and use of information sources. 3. There were a relationship among male consumers' fashion consciousness, their use of information sources, and their shopping behavior including clothing shopping orientation.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.164-177
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the differences in the image perception of dress shirts, the shirts style preference, the men's fashion consciousness, the shirt purchase attitude, and the usage of the information source between the Daks group(44 respondents) and Renoma group(21 respondents), for developing the possibility and strategy of the dress shirt market in men's wear market for the apparel marketers and manufacturers. For this study, the data obtained from 65 respondents were analyzed by descriptive statistics, Pearson's simple correlation, ANOVA. The results from the study were as follows ; The 6 stimuli for image perception rated on 5 point Likert-type scales in the 12 features were evaluated by perceivers. By the best 3 features abstracted from each stimulus, the shirts styles were named, they were Basic style, Soft style, Sophisticated style, Modern casual style, Mannish style, and Trendy style. There were significant differences in the image perception of Mannish style, the preferences of shirts style, the fashion consciousness, the shirt purchase attitude, and the usage of the information source between the Daks group and Renoma group.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.776-787
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to analyze the factors which have formed gender images in men's fashion since the middle of the 19th century. For this purpose, the images of gender in fashion were analyzed and historical studies about gender images in men's fashion from the middle of the 19th century to the present days were done. Historically images of gender expressed in fashion were masculine image feminine image androgynous image and genderless image. Among those images masculine image and genderless image. Among those image masculine image and androgynous image have been the gender images in men's fashion since the middle of the 19th century. In psychoanalytic view point the factors which have formed the gender images are related with sexual pleasure. Libido for looking narcissism and exhibitionism have produced masculine image and androgynous image in men's fashion, In socioeconomic view point power structure between the sexes have built the gender images in fashion. Masculine image and androgynous image came in to being in men's fashion for the purpose of displaying power or expressing opposition to power structure between the sexes, In aesthetic view point the aesthetic sense of each age about sex have constructed the gender images. Modernism had influence on building masculine image and post-modernism have formed androgynous image in men's fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.93-104
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• 2003

This study investigated clothing shopping propensity and consumer awareness of Chinese adult men to provide necessary basic data for effective construction to cope with inroads into Chinese men's wear market. Research subjects were Chinese men in big five city (Beijing, Shanghai, Dalian, Harbin, Guangzhou). Returned 863 questionnaires were analyzed by mean, factor analysis, ANOVA, Duncan's Multiple Range, regression analysis with SPSS 10.0. Results of this research were as follows: 1. Chinese men's apparel shopping propensity factors were analyzed by four groups, such as fashion toward propensity, consume propensity, brand loyalty propensity, and casual preference propensity. 2. Consume propensity among 4 factors influenced most on consumer buying awareness. Brand loyalty propensity among 4 factors influenced most on consumer brand awareness. Fashion toward propensity influenced most on consumer fashion awareness. 3. According to region, there were significant differences to four grouped apparel shopping propensities. Harbin, Guangzhou were indicated higher fashion toward propensity than other areas. Guangzhou was indicated higher consume propensity than Dalian. Dalian was showed lower brand loyalty propensity than other areas. Beijing was showed higher casual preference propensity than Guangzhou. According to income, there were significant differences to four apparel shopping propensities. Highest income group was showed higher fashion toward propensity than other income. The higher men earned income, the higher brand loyalty propensity. Highest income group was showed lower casual preference propensity than lowest income.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.1-15
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the image perception of dress shirts according to perceiver's residency and shirts style, and to investigate the shirts preference according to style of dress shirts, and to find out the men's aesthetics consciousness for shirts, and to analyze between the image perception and the usage of mass-media, for developing the possibility & strategy of the dress shirts market in men's wear market for the apparel marketers and manufactures. For this study, the data obtained from 321 respondents were analyzed by descriptive statistics, Pearson's simple correlation, ANOVA. The results from the study were as follow ; The 6 stimuli for image perception rated on 5 point Likert-type scales in the 12 features were evaluated by perceivers. By the best 3 features abstracted, shirts style concepts were decided such as, Basic style by the best 3 features of the first stimulus, and Soft style by the best 3 features of the second stimulus, and Sophisticate style by the best 3 features of the third stimulus, and Modern casual style by the best 3 features of the fourth stimulus, and Modern mannish style by the best 3 features of the fifth stimulus, and Trendy style by the best 3 features of the sixth stimulus. The modern casual style was estimated highly by respondents in Daejon. The respondents in Seoul prfered the basic style to other style. There were significant differences in evaluating between preferences of shirts style and pattern. Of the 82 respondents(26.8%) with the preference of bold london stripe, the 52 respondents estimated Modern casual style in bold london stripe. The fashion consciousness of the respondents in Seoul was estimated higher than in Daejon. But, the respondents in Daejon in the consciousness for the coordination knit cardigan and V zone was estimated higher than in Seoul. Also, the 31 respondents with the preference of Sophisticate style were the highest in fashion consciousness. The respondents estimated that the first important thing in buying dress shirts is 'Design(41.4%). and next is quality(17.8%). Results revealed that Daks ranked best brand (13.7%), and Renoma ranked best two brand (6,5%). And, the 35.5% respondents estimated that the first important information which influenced on buying dress shirts was the store display, next was internet(15.9%). Finally, I propose that the best strategy for men with low fashion consciousness is to upgrade salesmen' coordination technic and fabric knowledge, and store management with story attracting customers.