• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.415-428
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• 2004

The purpose of this thesis was to develop torso patterns according to the physical types of men in 20s. The procedure and results are as follows; 1. Of the men in 20s meeting the national average of physique, 4 men were selected and classified into 2 physical types according to their chest and waist circumference drops. One group had 20㎝ drop (Y type) while the other had 16㎝ drop (N type). Through evaluation performed by clothing construction professionals on the 4 upper bodice blocks drafted according to the existent drafting method and dressed on the 4 men, several problems have been found. These problems were adjusted and supplemented to make two new blocks. The fit of the new blocks were evaluated and proved to be satisfactory. 2. The following is the adjustments made to the existent men's torso patterns which had been utilized as the objects the first evaluation experiment. ① Though the back waist length of the pattern from the existent drafting method covered the center back length of the body in both Y type and N type, the front length did not causing it to stand away from the body. To adjust this, 2.0㎝ has been added to the center front length of each pattern so that the waist line could make a bar level to the ground. ② The shoulder line of the pattern from the existent drafting method had the tendency to fall backward. To make the shoulder line to fall in place, it has been moved 1.0㎝ to the front. 0.5㎝ has been added to the should length. ③ The neckline had a tendency to climb up. It has been lowered by 0.5㎝ until the line touched the center front neck point. ④ Though different in degree, the neck circumference did not allow enough width for both physique type causing the neckline to pull at side neck point with diagonal crease. To adjust this, 0.3㎝ and 0.6㎝ has been added to the Y type and N type respectively so that the neckline would touch the side neck point and the neckline could naturally fall into its original position. ⑤ Though different in degree, there was not enough space at the armhole causing wrinkles around this area. Therefore, 0.25㎝ and 0.5㎝ has been added to the front and back of the armholes of the Y and N types respectively. The armhole was made 1.0㎝ deeper only for the N type. ⑥ 1.0㎝ in the front and 0.5㎝ in the back were added to the side scam for the Y type while 0.5㎝ in the front and 0.25㎝ in the back were added for N type. This eliminated the unwanted wrinkles to give the silhouette a smooth look.

• 복식
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• 제29권
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• pp.5-22
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• 1996

the present thesis aims to contribute to the further development of the men's wear indus-try in Korea which now confronts the need to adjust itself more actively to the conditions of the coming age of internationalization and free trade. To achieve this this thesis suggests the trade should provide for the changing domestic needs on theone hand and refine its wares as high value-added products in compe-tition with those from the advanced countries in fashion industry on the other, The history of the 'suit' the standard men's attire dates back to 1850 when the 'Ditto suit' was introduced composed of coat waist coat vest and trousers to remain virtually unchanged till the end of the nineteenth cen-tury and the modern men's wear originated in Britain. In Korea since the introduction of western clothes from 1876 custom-made suits had been dominant until 1944 while western clothes earned popular currency between 1945 and 1964 and ready-made suits began to spread with their advantages recognized in terms of practicality convenience and functionality The next phase from 1965 to 1985 witnessed the establishment of a number of ready-made brands although custom-made suits stayed in their height of prosperity until 1975. The turn-ing point for the men's wear industry came in 1975 when high-calss ready-made brands be-gan to turn up with the arrival of large companies in the market matching the change in consumers' life style. The men's wear market went through further diversification and specialization dur-ing the years between 1985. and 1990. Around the year 1990 however the expansion of the business suit industry came to slow down ac-companied by an oversupplied market. The fashion of pragmatism in the 1990s called for the growth of the casual wear department and as consumers' life style became more and more individualized conscious dressing in accord ance with T.P.O established itself as an important branch of culture, Such casual boom is likely to aid in promoting Korea's men's wear indus-try to peer with that of advanced countries. Consumers' fashion sense is now ahead of the trade's as well as being shortcycled highly individualized stylized and diversified. To meet consumers' demands under such circum-stances each company is required to develop its unique soft Know How based on accurate information and strategically specialized plan-ning. The trade should convert its hithero producer-oriented strategy to a new consumer oriented one and actively lead the needs and purchasin g pattern of consumers by providing an efficient and reasonable price policy with optimum supply of merchandise and also by presenting 'our' trend suited to our circum-stances.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.76-88
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• 2002

The aim of this study was to describe how the type of appeal and linguistic expression of men's wear advertisement in magazines by analyzing domestic men's and ladies' magazines published from 1990 to 1999. The periodical change in advertisement trend was also discussed. 1. Type of Linguistic expression The type of linguistic expression used in advertisements far men's wear could be classified into the following five categories : emotional expression, sensual expression, egoistic expression, informative expression, and brand name expression. The periodical trend in the use of each type of linguistic expression was as follows: the occupancy rate for the type of emotional expression was roughly 50 percent in the early 90's (1990-1993) and this percentage gradually decreased during the mid 90's (1994-1196) until the late 90's (1997-1990). Despite the decrease in occupancy rate, this type was the most commonly used. While the occupancy rate fur the type of informative expression gradually increased during the decade, occupancy growth fur the type of brand name expression was slight until its rapid expansion in the late 90's. The occupancy rate for the type of egoistic expression steadily increased during the early and mid 90's but decreased to its original percentage in the late 90's. As for the sensual expression, its occupancy was insignificant up to the mid 90's and then rapidly decreased in the late 90's. 2. Type of appeal The type of appeal used in men's wear advertisements could be classified into the four categories, sensitive appeal, sex appeal, image appeal, and quality appeal. The periodical trend in the use of each type of appeal was as follows: sensitive appeal was most commonly used during the decade ; it had an occupancy rate over 50 percent in the early 90's but the rate gradually decreased during the mid and late 90's. Sexual appeal were the least commonly used; though the occupancy rate increased during the early and mid 90's it dropped dramatically in the late 97's. The occupancy rate for image appeal gradually decreased until its growth in the late 90's. The occupancy rate fur quality appeal was insignificant in the early 90's. This percentage rapidly increased in the mid 90's but relapsed in the late 90's.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.99-110
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• 1999

In order to help the marketers of the men\`s casual wear brands establish the marketing strategies to their target consumers, it is the purpose of this study to investigate on the variables affecting the casual wear purchase behavior of men in twenties, thirties and forties, and to clarify the differences of casual wear purchase behavior according to their age, The subjects were 429 men in their twenties, thirties and forties living in Seoul and data were analyzed by frequency, percentage, mean and standard deviation, x², ANOVA and Duncan\`s test. The results were as follows : (1) Significant differences were found among men in twenties, thirties and forties according to the self-image. Men in forties favored the conservative and not-noticeable image of casual wear, however, men in twenties and thirties favored those of the active, sexy, and distinctive image. (2) Significant differences were found among men in twenties, thirties and forties according to the importance of the store attributes such as convenience of transportation and parking place, clothing in vogue, and various merchandise. Men in thirties and forties put more importance on convenience of transportation and parking place. Men in forties put more importance on various merchandise than men in twenties and thirties. (3) Significant differences were found among men in twenties, thirties and forties according to general purchase behavior of casual wear. * Differences of the use of information according to age Majority of the men consulted the T.V., radio and people in their boundaries * Differences of the clothing purchase frequency according to age Men in twenties buy more clothing than other age groups. Men in twenties buy the clothing every one month and every three months and men in thirties and forties buy the clothing every three months and every six months. * Differences of the shopping day according to age Majority of the men buy the clothing on Saturday and Sunday. However men in twenties buy the clothing more on weekdays than other age groups. * Differences of the shopping place according There were not significant differences among three different age groups and majority of the men found out to utilize the department store. * Differences of the influence of the partners according to age Men in twenties found out to rely on their own decisions but men in thirties and forties found out to depend on their wives(loves). * Differences of the selection standards of casual wear according to age There were not significant differences according to age and adult males found out to select the casual wear by design, quality price in sequence.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.56-72
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• 1998

Vest is a general term for a sleeveless upper garment and it derives from a kolobus of a sleeveless tunic style that was started to be worn as a substitution of a chiton by the peasantry in Greek period. The kolobus started to be called a colobium or a tunica from Roman period and the former was named for a vest style tunica which was worn by the people of the lower classes in early Roman period. Similarly, a German colobium of North Europe which was worn during the same period was the same kind of clothe as the Roman colobium. The colobium came to be worn over a dalmatica as an outer garment by early Christians when it was the Middle Ages, who succeeded the tradition of colobium as they went through ancient Rome, Creek and Byzantine days. North Germans also succeeded the colobium tradition of ancient Germans as it was and so continued to wear it in tight style. The simple vest style of colobium was getting vanished from the mid of the Middle Agnes and a new style of vest named jupon was started to be worn by soldiers. The jupon was to protect soldiers' bodies from either were cold weather or enemies wearing under armors as it was made with double cotton pad by quilt. From 14th century, the jupon began to be worn by not only soldiers but also the humble of lower classes. All the jupon which were made in quilting and padding of that time began to be named a pourpoint by the humble. When Renaissance in 16th century came, the pourpoint began to be developed to an exaggerating body-line style. The neckline of pourpoint was getting highly influenced by Spain and a peacecod-belly of it emphasized the exaggerated masculine beauty of Renaissance by padding in round. The sleeves were puffed out and the whole purpoint was made to expose an inner chemise by slashing vertically or obliquely. But in 17th century, the pourpoint has been changed into more simple style without padding, puffing out and slashing influenced by the citizens' clothes of Netherlands. The pourpoint came to be more comfortable bulky style with short sleeves or sleeveless and straight side lines. The pourpoint in mid 17th century turned to be a bolero jacket style by gradually being tightened. It had been then changed into a vest style with sleeves and worn under an overcoat with the name of vest in the end of 17th century. The early vest was 2∼3 inches les in length than the overcoat and had long sleeves and many ornamental buttons on front. It was also made as a home wear to be worn it alone at home. In 18th century, the length of the vest became shorter compared with that of 17th century and the most important decorative item in clothes. It again came to have complete sleeveless vest style and had very short length reaching waist in the end of 18th century. When it was in 19th century, the vest had developed into more various style and colors and style had been applied to be worn by individuals with their tastes. Around the end of 19th century, the increasing tendency to be casual by industrialization influenced on clothes in all aspects of life and so the male vest has been gradually changed into more casual style. Nowadays, it has been developing into various uses in modern male clothes to show their characters.

• 감성과학
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.69-78
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• 2021

요즘은 건강을 위한 스마트 헬스 케어 웨어러블의 개발이 가속화되는 시대이다. 그 중 활발한 연구 분야 중 하나인 EMS 전기자극을 활용한 웨어러블 제품이 많이 출시되었다. 하지만 연구되거나 출시되어있는 EMS 웨어러블은 근육의 세분화에 집중하지 못한 포괄적인 전신 슈트나 복부 전체를 덮는 벨트 형식으로 출시되어있다. 이에 본 연구에서는 특정 근육을 세분화시킨 EMS 패턴을 적용하고 복압 벨트에 호흡을 측정할 수 있는 스트레치 센서를 부착하여 두 가지 호흡법을 활용해 연구를 진행하고자 한다. 측정방법은 들숨과 날숨으로 실험을 진행하며 대상자는 건강한 신체의 20대 남성 10명을 대상으로 진행했다. 본 연구의 결과 흉식호흡과 복식호흡 모두 센서의 민감도는 5mm, 3mm, 기본 센서 순으로 센서별 순위 결과를 확인할 수 있었고 EMS 복압 벨트를 통해 전기자극을 적용 전, 후로 나누었을 때 전기자극을 적용한 후 호흡의 활성화가 향상되었음을 알 수 있었다. 연구의 결론은 2가지 호흡법을 신체 기능적 근거로 제작한 2가지 패턴으로 인해 호흡법에 적합한 전기자극을 적용 시 적용하지 않았을 때 보다 3가지 센서로 호흡 활성화 효과와 센서 간 민감도 차이를 확인할 수 있었다. 본 연구 결과를 기반으로 후속 연구에서는 EMS 패턴과 스트레치 센서가 통합된 의복형 웨어러블 제품에 실시간 모니터링이 가능한 호흡 스마트 의류를 개발하고자 한다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.31-48
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• 2007

The purpose of the this study is to make a historical review of changes in the structural decorations of men's costume from ancient times to modern times and to provide basic materials for developing handicraft decoration techniques and sewing methods in contemporary fashion. Their gorgeousness of collars and sleeves reached its peak along with the exaggerated expression of the human body during the Renaissance when people were free from Christian traditions of the Middle Ages and pursued human pleasures. Huge and decorative collars gave great dignity and formality to the wearer. Sleeves were slim and cuffs were small or nonexistent after the French Revolution. Various decorated pockets had been developed since pockets began to be attached to coats in the 17th century. Pockets were at the bottom of coat in the late 17th century, but they were gradually placed much higher on the coat. Buttons began to be used as the tool for sticking fast body to clothes in the 12th century and became extremely sumptuous accessories in the $16th{\sim}18th$ centuries. Men's clothes were simpler and more practical after the French Revolution. The result was that decorative buttons begun to disappear and metal buttons came out for practical purpose. The number of buttons worn on sleeves was also noticeably reduced. This research suggested the possibility that various decoration techniques could create the unique details in the each part of clothes. In order to develop high value-added products, we need to study various decoration-sewing methods and put to practical use them for creative fashion design.