• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.240-246
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• 2002

Hydraulic model experiments were conducted fur a series of regular and uni-directional irregular waves propagating over a submerged elliptic shoal. Two different sets of experiments have been studied； one considers regular wave transformation with no breaking, and the other considers uni-directional irregular wave with partial breaking on top of the shoal. The numerical experiments are also performed using a numerical model based on the parabolic approximation equation. The result of the numerical experiments are compared with that of hydraulic experiments.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.11-20
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• 2003

In this paper we examine several methods tor calculating the reflection of irregular waves from a perforated-wall caisson breakwater using a regular wave model. The first method is to approximate the irregular waves as a regular wave whose height and period are the same as the root-mean-squared wave height and significant wave period, respectively, of the irregular waves. The second is to use the regular wave model, repeatedly, for each frequency component of the irregular wave spectrum. The wave period is determined according to the frequency of the component wave, and the root-mean-squared wave height is used for all the frequencies. The third method is the same as the second one except that the wave height corresponding to the energy of each component wave is used. Comparison with experimental data from previous authors shows the second method is the most adequate, giving reasonable agreement in both frequency-averaged reflection coefficients and reflected wave spectra.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.49-61
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• 2008

This study investigates the characteristics of stem waves along a vertical wall generated by obliquely incident random waves through laboratory experiments conducted in a wave basin and numerical simulations using REF/DIF S model developed by Kirby and $\ddot{O}zkan$(1994). The investigation is focused on the effect of random waves on the propagation characteristics of stem waves and the difference or similarity between monochromatic and random waves. The results of REF/DIF S model are compared with laboratory measurements and good agreements are obtained. The relative significant wave height along a wall is almost same with monochromatic condition, but the wave pattern along normal to the wall shows a significant difference.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.244-254
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• 2013

In this study, a method has been developed for estimating the change of nearshore random waves in response to sea-level rise, by extending the method proposed for regular waves by Townend in 1994. The relative changes in wavelength, refraction coefficient, shoaling coefficient, and wave height for random waves are presented as functions of relative change in water depth. The changes in wavelength and refraction coefficient are calculated by using the significant wave period and principal wave direction in the regular-wave formulas. On the other hand, the changes in shoaling coefficient and wave height are calculated by using the formulas proposed for shoaling and transformation of random waves in the nearshore area including surf zone. The results are proposed in the form of both formulas and graphs. In particular, the relative change in wave height is compared with the result for regular waves.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2000.09a
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• pp.155-160
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• 2000

해안 및 항만 구조물의 단면설계 및 평면 배치 계획에 있어서 가장 중요한 것은 설계파를 정확히 산정하고 항내 파랑장을 정도 높게 해석하는 것이다. 지금까지의 파랑장 해석은 주로 단일주파수와 방향에 대한 규칙파 해석으로 이루어졌으며 이것에 의한 계산결과는 수많은 주파수와 방향, 파고들이 합성되어 이루어진 실제 해역의 불규칙 파랑장을 잘 재현한다고는 말할 수 없다. 구조물 주위에서의 불규칙 파랑 해석은 주로 구조물에 의한 회절 계산에서부터 시작되었다.(중략)

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2015.05a
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• pp.89-89
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• 2015

항만 및 어항 구조물을 구성하는 다양한 해안구조물은 파랑의 천수효과, 굴절, 회절, 부분반사, 해저마찰, 쇄파의 영향 등을 고려해야하며 파고 및 파향 등의 해양특성의 검토가 반드시 이루어져야 한다. 실제의 해양파가 방향스펙트럼을 갖는 다방향 불규칙파라는 것은 잘 알려져 있으며, 기존의 해안구조물의 내파설계 또는 천해역의 파랑변형 검토에 있어서도 실제 해양파에 보다 가까운 다방향 불규칙파를 이용한 수리모형실험에 의해 파랑현상을 정도 높게 재현하는 것은 매우 중요하다. 본 연구에서는 실제 해양파를 정도 높게 재현할 수 있는 다방향 불규칙파 조파장치를 사용하여 구조물 전면해역에서의 파랑스펙트럼을 재현하고, 심해에서 발달된 파랑이 천해로 진행될 때 지형에 의해 발생되는 천수변형과 구조물 주위에서 나타나는 파랑변형의 현상을 고려하여 항내로 유입되는 파랑의 분포 특성을 검토하였다. 특히, 다방향 불규칙파로 인한 항내 파고분포 특성을 검토하기 위하여 동일 파랑에 대한 규칙파 및 불규칙파랑을 조파하여 그 결과를 상호 비교하였다. 아울러, 정온수역유지를 위한 월파현상을 수리적으로 재현할 수 있는 3차원 수리모형실험 수행하여 월파현상이 항내정온도에 미치는 영향을 고찰, 해석하여 항만 시설물 계획시 안정한 정박 및 이용에 대한 가능한 정온유지여부를 검토하였다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.240-249
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• 2016

In this study, we investigated wave force distribution at points on a vertical structure of semi-infinite breakwater considering diffraction. Wave forces of monochromatic and random waves on a vertical structure are studied considering diffractions in front and lee side of the breakwater for non-breaking wave condition. We selected width of breakwater are 0 for reference condition. In monochromatic wave case, relative wave force becomes 0 on the head of the breakwater by acting incident wave force and diffracting wave force simultaneously and oscillating patterns of relative wave force occurs based on 1.0 as distance from the head increases. Relative wave force of monochromatic waves decreases as incident wave angle increases. Relative wave force of random waves is defined by using ratio of root mean square and wave force spectrum in this study. The case considering random phase of each wave components are compared to the case which don't consider random phase and both results are almost similar. Relative wave force of random waves is also 0 near the head of the breakwater likewise monochromatic wave. Oscillating pattern of relative wave force of random waves becomes relatively weaker for composition of each wave components as distance from the head increases.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1992.08a
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• pp.83-83
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• 1992

풍파가 수심이 불규칙하고 조류 및 해류 등의 흐름이 존재하는 연안역을 전파해 갈 때 파고 및 파향이 굴절ㆍ회절 및 천수, 에너지 감쇠 효과 등에 의해 크게 변형된다. 이러한 현상은 연안역의 파랑변형 계산 및 퇴적물이동현상 분석에 매우 중요하다. 불규칙파의 스펙트럼 형태와 에너지의 방향 분산 정도에 따라 단순 규칙파 모델과의 계산치가 50-100%에 이르기도 한다.(중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.20-35
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• 2017

In the case of the seabed around and under gravity structures such as submerged breakwater is exposed to a large wave action long period, the excess pore pressure will be significantly generated due to pore volume change associated with rearrangement soil grains. This effect will lead a seabed liquefaction around and under structures as a result of the decrease in the effective stress, and eventually the possibility of structure failure will be increased. The study of liquefaction potential for regular waves had already done, and this study considered for irregular waves with the same numerical analysis method used for regular waves. Under the condition of the irregular wave field, the time and spatial series of the deformation of submerged breakwater, the pore water pressure (oscillatory and residual components) and pore water pressure ratio in the seabed were estimated and their results were compared with those of the regular wave field to evaluate the liquefaction potential on the seabed quantitatively. Although present results are based on a limited number of numerical simulations, one of the study's most important findings is that a safer design can be obtained when analyzing case with a regular wave condition corresponding to a significant wave of the irregular wave.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.55-61
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• 2003

The maneuvering equations of motion are derived to express the motion of a ship. The wave forces in the time domain analysis are generated from the frequency transfer function calculated by 3-D source distribution method. The linear wave forces whose periods are equal to those of incident waves and the nonlinear wave forces that make long period drift forces are computed for the simulation. The consideration of irregular waves and nonlinear wave force effects on the slew motion are carried on the analyzing the motion of ship in the regular and irregular waves.