• Proceedings of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association Conference
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• 2004.06a
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• pp.34-38
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• 2004

복식사 연구의 의의 중 하나는 고대 복식 자료를 현대 패션 디자인에 활용하는데 있다. 현대 패션디자이너들은 전통 복식의 스타일, 소재, 색, 문양 등에서 디자인 영감을 얻고 있다. 이러한 측면에서 본 연구에서는 고대 아시아 북방 민족들에게서 시작되어 중국 본토에 보편화되었으며 청조에는 관복의 구성품목으로 제도화된 피령에 대해 살펴보고자 한다.(중략)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.1-18
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• 2010

The Aesthetics of Kwanbok and Hyungbae and their Modern Applications Starting from practical purpose, kwanbok worn by government officers were developed in original and unique fashion over long time. In particular, as hyungbae (embroidered patches for kwanbok) that had been used for kwanbok has remained in existence even today, providing inspiration for a variety of design, it is bringing attention to the aesthetic value and importance of kwanbok. Under the circumstances, this study has elicited aesthetics from kwanbok and hyungbae as follows: First, they imply the wish of long life and happiness as a symbol of favorable omen and distinguish one's status according to the shape, color, and pattern. Second, kwanbok and hyungbae reveal our ancestors' naturalistic perspective in art. Third, pleats, slits and shapes in robes reveal practical aesthetics in composition. Fourth, slits in kwanbok create the aesthetics of contrast and harmony of lining and outer cloth. Modern applications of kwanbok is of value as they represent traditions and maintain the original forms, showing the image of Korea in the 21st century. Such efforts mean that they do not only make more beautiful clothes, but also create overall philosophies in life, including personal values.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.4 s.152
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• pp.554-566
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• 2006

The purpose of this paper is to understand the ethnic characteristics of official uniforms of Qing(淸)) by comparing the rank systems of official uniforms of Ming(명(明)) and Qing(淸)) dynasties. As research documents, Dai-Ming-Huidian(大明會典)) and Qing-Huidian-Tu(淸明會圖)) have been used. This research shows that there are many traditional characteristics of Manchurians (滿族)) in the official uniforms of Qing(淸)) dynasty. The characteristics are as follows: First, Qing dynasty made their own official uniform based on the traditional Manchurians(滿族)) costume, and added rank system on it. Second, Qing dynasty used the animal's leather as the material of official uniforms and distinguished the level of the uniforms according to the rerity value of rareness, color, and warmth of the leather. Third, Qing dynasty used pearls produced in Manchuria as the highest level, as opposed to jades and rhinoceros horns of Ming. Fourth, Qing dynasty eliminated the animal's rank system of twelve patterns which had been used for whole history of China, but the Emperor is the only man who is able to use twelve patterns. Qing dynasty made her own pattern system of standstill/moving dragons and standstill/moving pythons. Fifth, Qing dynasty used the rank system by colors in the order of yellow, red, and blue consistently over various official uniforms, while Ming used different color orders for different uniforms.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.142-163
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• 2020

In the early Joseon dynasty, the meritorious vassals' portrait of Jeokgae (1467, 1476), Jeongguk (1506)·Jeongnan (1507), and Wisa (1545) were defined as the 2^nd period of the official uniform, in which the acheongsaek HeukDanryung appeared and settled. A total of seven portraits were analyzed, including three portraits of Jeokgae (1467, portrait production 1476) Son-so, Oh Jachi, and Jang Malson, and four portraits of Jeongguk (1506)·Jeongnan (1507) Yoo Sunjung, Hong Gyeongju, Lee Woo, and Yoo Hong. In the portrait of the Jeokgae wearing a Yebok HeukDanryung, in the case of the Samo, the height of the Samo, which had been raised at the beginning of King Seongjong, was lowered again, and the parietal part was rounded. The pattern was not expressed on the wide oval side wings of the Samo. In addition, the pattern was not expressed on the acheongsaek Danryung, Dapho, and Cheolrik. The colors of Dapho and Cheolrik were unified in green and red, respectively. The Mu of Danryung and Dapho was expressed as 'in and out wrinkled Mu', and the shoes were expressed in Baekhwa. Another feature is that the Jeokgae's portrait is expressed not as the Pumgye at the time of appointment, but as the Pumgye of the portrait production time. In the portrait of the Jeongguk·Jeongnan wearing a Sibok HeukDanryung, the height of the Samo lowered from the Jeokgae was maintained, while the parietal part was slightly narrowed and bent forward. The side wings of the Samo were expressed as an oval with a uniform width, and still the pattern was not expressed on the side wings. The pattern was not expressed in the costume of the Danghagwan's portrait, but the cloud pattern began to be expressed in the costume of the Dangsanggwan's portrait. And the Danryung was expressed as single Danryung without lining. In the portrait of Dangsang, the red Dapho and green Cheolrik were expressed, and in the portrait of Dangha, the green Dapho and blue Cheolrik were expressed. Therefore, it was found that the color of the undergarment was distinguished according to the Dangsang and Dangha. In Danryung and Dapho, the 'in and out wrinkled Mu' were maintained. The shoes were expressed in Heukhwa, and the rank badge and rank belt reflect the Pumgye at the time of the appointment. On the other hand, the portrait of Wisa could not be confirmed, but through the recording painting of the reign of King Meongjong, it was found that it was similar to the Danryung system of the reign of King Jungjong. Through the 2^nd period of the meritorious vassal's portrait of Jeokgae, it was confirmed that the HeukDanryung outfit began to be used as the official uniform of the meritorious vassal's portrait, and that the Pumgye of the portrait production time was reflected in the portrait. After the meritorious vassal's portrait of Jeongguk, the pattern began to be expressed in the costumes, and in particular, it was possible to distinguish Dasang and Dangha by the presence or absence of the HeukDanryung's pattern. In addition, it was confirmed that the expressed aspect of the official uniform was consistent with the practices and regulations at the time.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.51-52
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• 2003

2000년이라는 유구한 우리의 복식문화는 서양복식의 출현으로 불과 100년 만에 정복당해 버리고 말았다. 그러나 다시 국제화 시대의 도래로 한국적이면서 전통적인 요소가 요구되고 있다. 이러한 시대적 흐름에 발맞추어 우리의 디자이너들도 코리아의 아름다움을 알리기 위해 세계시장으로 속속 뛰어들고 있다. 복식전반에서 “전통과 현대의 만남”은 국제무대에서도 주목받고 있으며 전통적 요소와 소재개발에 많은 관심을 기울이고 있어 개발과 연구 또한 시급하다. (중략)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.2 s.92
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• pp.70-81
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• 2005

This paper researches the system of official uniforms and characteristics of the system based on Ming-Shi(明史), Da-Ming-Hui-Dian(大明會典) and Hong-Wu-Li-Zhi(洪武禮制) in the emperor Hong-wu(洪武帝) of Ming dynasty(明). The system could be divided in to three terms, i.e., the early (initial), the middle and the end (last) terms. In the first(1368) & the third year of the emperor's reign (1370) the system of official uniforms was simple f9r his people not to be luxurious and for revived the system of official uniforms of the Han dynasty(漢) and annulled the system of the Yuan dynasty(元), be-cause the country was not stable yet. During the middle term of Hong-wu, the 14th (1381) to 16th (1383) year of his reign, people attained luxurious lives and developed a strong sense of rank as the country became more stable. As a result, the system became more complicated when the emperor used the costumes to represent political and social ranking. In the end of the emperor's age, the 23rd (1390) to 26th (1393), it reveals his strong intention to establish a system of costumes that separated the ruler from the ruled. He wanted to strengthen the power of Emperor for his little grandson, Jian-wen(建文帝), who would succeed to the throne and would have absolute power. These changes became fundamental to the Ming dynasty's costume system and the Ming dynasty kept them for long time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.801-814
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• 2016

This study uses the "Sejong chronicles" ritual manual to investigate the movements and roles of provincial governors during the enshrinement rituals of the royal portrait, the official uniforms of the provincial governors in their roles, and the characteristics of the official uniforms system for local governors in the early Joseon Dynasty. The results of this study are as follows. Provincial governors who participated in the enshrinement rituals of the royal portrait were governors 'en route' and governors 'in destination'. The movements of the governor 'en route' followed the provincial borders, official residences, and neighboring provincial borders. The movements of the governor 'in destination' followed the provincial borders, the official residence, and jinjeon. The roles of the governors included the welcoming ceremony, the bow-down ceremony, the front guard, and the farewell ceremony. The governors 'en route' wore Jobok in the welcome ceremony, and a Sibok in the bow-down ceremony before the farewell. The governor 'in destination' wore Jobok in the welcome ceremony, and Jobok (or Sibok if Jobok was not available) in the bow-down ceremony before the farewell. The characteristics of the official uniforms system for local governors in the Joseon Dynasty were as follows. First, the governors wore different uniforms depending on the importance of the rituals in the early Joseon Dynasty. Second, the names of official uniforms Sang-bok and Si-bok were used interchangeably in the early Joseon Dynasty. Third, local governors were allowed to wear Sangbok (or Sibok) instead of Jobok.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.59-68
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• 2007

It seems that Balhae(渤海) had built up its national power through the international relationship from the early years of an establishment of a dynasty. And the envoys that were sent with the official duties dressed up the official uniform for a diplomatic courtesy. Accordingly, this study will be considered about the official uniform in the early years of the Balhae era. The system of the official uniform of Balhae was classified into two form as the starting from $739\sim742$ A.D. The official uniform of the early years of the Balhae($698\sim739$ A.D.) was based on the costume of the three Kingdoms[三國時代], that is, Yu, Go(待), Jo-u-gwan(鳥羽冠). These results were available owing to the reasons that the Balhaehad succeeded the culture of Go-gu-ryo(高句麗), which was the basis for the development of Parhae's own culture, and the most of the governing group and the ruling class in Balhaewere the drifting people from Go-gu-ryo. After that, which the 3th King Mun(文王), acrepted the Tang's culture positively, assumed the reins of government ascended the throne and the brisk exchange with Tang(唐) by the envoys and Suk-wui(宿衛) were dispatched to Tang, the official uniform of the Balhaewas transformed into the system of Tang. This system was similar to that of Tang in point of using a four colors and the items as Danryeong(團領), Bokdu.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.133-146
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• 2015

King and Crown Prince's Gwanbok (冠服) written in "Goryeosa" Yeobokji was the bestowment of robes and crowns by the Son of Heaven who yielded hegemony over East Asia. It designated the King and Crown Prince of Goryeo as real and authentic as well as confirmed the political status of Goryeo in East Asia. In "Goryeosa" Yeobokji, the King's Gwanbok is of higher stature than the adornments of the King's ritual robes (祭服) and court robes (朝服) which held a domestic political significance. In East Asia, bestowment of voiture (車) and robe (服) usually appeared in the multistate system. In the $10^{th}$ century, the Later Jin (後晋) spread the idea of investiture and bestowment to Khitan (契丹). The Liao (遼) or Khitan and the Jin (金), the Conquest Dynasties, endeavored to establish the legitimacy of the Son of Heaven by imitating Sinocentrism by means of investiture and bestowment. In the reign of XingZong (興宗) and DaoZong (道宗) of Liao, the ritual of investiture and bestowment for Goryeo was in the making, adding titles and bestowments in the occasion of the elevation of Emperor Liao's honorific title. King Munjong (文宗) of Goryeo reached 9-bestowment which symbolized the first of the feudal lords in East Asia. This exceptional respect for Goryeo went on to Jin's investiture and bestowment. From then, 9-bestowment was defined as an international decorum (禮) toward Goryeo. This historical study of Gwanbok (冠服) of "Goryeosa", indicates: First, the King's Ceremonial Robe with Nine-symbol Design were designated from the early to middle of the Goryeo Dynasty by investiture and bestowment from the Conquest Dynasties. Second, the bestowed King's Robe and Crown had simultaneous functions for domestic order and international order. Goryeo did not follow ideological Sinocentrism but followed practical interest by accepting Confucian Li (禮) philosophy passed on through the Conquest Dynasties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.9
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• pp.1125-1137
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• 2011

This study investigates when and why the light pink Dan-ryoung appeared as part of the official uniform of the Joseon Dynasty and which official uniform used the light pink color. The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty, books written by scholars, and related laws were used as research materials. The following results were obtained by analyzing the arguments of kings and officials on light pink uniforms and laws related to official uniforms. 1. Red was the color of the king as well as the color of Dang-sang-gwan's Gong-bok (one of the official uniforms). 2. The colors such as To-hong, Dam-hong, Do-hong, Bun-hong, Cheon-hong that appeared in Sang-bok (among official uniforms) were relatively lighter than red. 3. To-hong started to be used in Sang-bok at the time of King Se-jong and was used at the time of King Seong-jong in Sang-bok because it was the preferred color. 4. In the Joseon Dynasty, safflower (the basis of red color dye) was cultivated extensively; in addition, people liked red dyeing because it was relatively easy apply; subsequently, a ban on red dyeing was continually issued. 5. Kings Se-jong and Jung-jong ordered officials to use Do-hong and Bun-hong to distinguish the red color of the king. After Im-jin-oe-ran, Cheon-hong was officially designated the color of Sang-bok. 6. The reasons why Dam-hong was used in official uniforms were twofold: the preference for red-like colors and the influence of the Confucian hierarchy to distinguish the king.