• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.163-178
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• 2014

In America, where obesity rate ranks no.1 in the world, the plus size market is rapidly expanding with various American brands adding plus size lines in a way to diversify their products. As obesity is expanding throughout the younger generation, the necessity to develop products according to different characteristics of body shape that can fulfill the needs of young plus size consumers is being emphasized. In this study of young plus size, our focus is on providing wider spectrum of design choices for consumers by analyzing different body shapes, categorizing them, and then identifying the differences of design among them. More specifically, the object of this study is to analyze the elements that differentiate the designs from each other by virtually trying out the same item on avatars of various body shapes. Thus, we can identify the elements that needs to be differentiated according to different body shapes after implementing virtual fitting program on plus size shapes that are rather difficult considering the reality of domestic fashion companies. In this way, we are able to provide fundamental data for American plus size fashion market and design development for Korean fashion companies that are under way of entering or planning to enter the American market. Furthermore, this will demonstrate the actual details of the designs that will eventually help the development of specialized product for the globalization of Korean fashion industry.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.605-618
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• 2014

This study aims to compare the ease of men's slim pants patterns, and to analyze the fit and appearance through the 3D virtual garment system. The study selected four educational materials and one industrial pattern of slim pants for a total of five items. The CLO 3D Modelist program was utilized to carry out the appearance evaluation through virtual wearing and opacity, and a comparison was performed regarding the clothing pressure when the virtual model was standing and walking. The results of our comparison of the patternmaking for slim pants showed that pattern C pants had the greatest ease on the waist circumference, while B pants showed no ease. The C and E pants also had the most ease on the hip measurement. In the appearance evaluation, A pants received the most favorable results, followed by D, E, B, and C, in descending order. The clothing pressure appeared to be mainly red on the waist, crotch, and hem when standing in all pants, so the clothing pressure was high. While walking, the stress appeared to be different for the left and right parts of the body, and the most significant difference was observed on the thigh area.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.476-487
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to suggest torso patterns that fit the three main body shapes of elderly obese women. To reduce time, costs, and also the trial and error needed to make patterns, the CLO program for 3D test wear was employed. Three virtual models for aged obese women were use, with the YUKA system used to produce torso patterns. 3D simulation of test wear and corrections was done to design optimal torso patterns. The results were as follows: First, for the three models of obese women's body shapes as realized by CLO 3D, Type 1 is lower-body obesity shapes, Type 2 is abdominal obesity shapes, and Type 3 is whole-body obesity shapes. Second, to design the study patterns, actual measurement values, back waist length and waist to hip length, were used. The armhole depth (B/4-1.5), front interscye (B/6+2.3), front neck width (B/12-0.5), front neck depth (B/12+0.5), front waist measurement (W/4+ 1.5+D), front hip measurement (H/4+2+0.5), and back hip measurement (H/4+3-0.5) were calculated using formulas. Third, according to the results of test-wearing the study patterns, reduced front neck width and depth improved the neck fit and reduced armhole depth bettered loose or plunging armhole girth and also reduced the sagging of bust c.. Also, tight sidesfrom aprotruded waist and abdomen improved with the increase of surpluses in the back waist and also back and front hip c. The exterior was enhanced by displacement of back and front darts, which distributed surpluses better.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.299-312
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to create a shirt sloper suitable for an elderly male body shape by producing virtual models using a 3D-virtualization program, making a torso prototype using the Yuka CAD system, and employing 3D simulation to virtualize and calibrate the model. First, the following three types of obese dummies are implemented through the CLO 3D program: Type 1 exhibits body fat in the lower body; Type 2 exhibits an obese abdomen; and Type 3 displays a balanced form of obesity. Second, for the design of the shirt pattern, the waist back length (measured value+1), back armhole depth (C/10+12+3+0.5~1.5), front armhole depth (back armhole depth 0~1), front interscye (2C/10-1+0.5-0.5), armscye depth (C/10+2+3.5+ 0.5), back interscye (2C/10-1+1), front chest C (C/4+2.5+1), back chest C (C/4+2.5-1), front hem C (C/4+2.5+1(+2)), back hem C (C/4+2.5-1(+2)), cap height (AH/3-5), and biceps width (Front AH-1, Back AH-1) are calculated. Third, the virtual attachment of the shirt pattern is resolved by increasing the front and back armhole depths, and the front and rear wrinkles are improved by adding a back armhole dart. The front hem lift and lateral pull caused by the protrusion of the abdomen are amended by increasing the margin of the chest, waist C, and hip C, with the appearance improved by balanced margin distribution in the front, back, and side panels. The improved retail pattern with an increase in the front armholes C was balanced on the torso plate.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.91-108
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• 2017

Interests in 3D virtual clothing technology and its application in online shopping malls are increasing with the advent of the Fourth Industrial Revolution. Most studies on 3D virtual clothing, however, are focused on observing drapes or ease of virtual clothing depending on fabric properties of representative clothing items. Therefore, the purpose of this study is: first, to determine if current input of typical material characteristics in 3D CLO are sufficient to formulate virtual skirts with different front and back silhouettes; second, to determine if subjective appearance evaluation matched physical shape characteristics of those skirts. In this study, appearances of typical cotton, wool, silk, rayon, and polyester skirts with different front and back pattern were compared between actual and virtual clothing depending on fabric materials. Subjective appearance evaluation was conducted by 7 experts regarding similarity between actual and virtual clothing with a 5-point scale. For objective evaluation of the both types of skirt shape, degree of roundness at the cross section, displacement of side seam, position of back waistline, and the number of folds at the skirt back were observed. In the case of cotton and wool, not the subjective appearance evaluation as well as shape characteristics of virtual skirts were well matched to the actual shape of skirts with a few material inputs. However, current material inputs for silk, rayon and polyester were insufficient to cover material differences in formation of virtual skirts with different front and back silhouettes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.103-120
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• 2012

The study aimed to evaluate the appearance of the men's work clothes jumpers developed to suggest the prototype work clothes jumper patterns by using the 3-D clothing simulation technology. The 3-D simulated clothing images considered the upper body features of men in the age range between 20 and 59 in South Korea. A questionnaire survey conducted previously suggested a basic jumper style with shirt collar and snap opening cuffs for the heavy industry workers; and discomforting parts of the work clothes jumper of the subject workers have been referred to for the experimental jumper appearance test. Besides, defining the measurements of men's upper bodies enabled to generate the men's 3-D virtual models representing each age group's average body feature. The significant body measurement factors for men's 3-D body modeling and jumper pattern-making were stature for the height factor; chest, waist and hip circumferences for the circumference factor; waist back, hip and arm lengths and interscye front/back for the length factor; and back neck breadth for the breadth factor and armscye and scye depths for the depth factor. The men's body measurements of 30's were implemented to three experimental jumper pattern-making methods, i.e. the 1st method using the relations based on stature and chest circumference; the 2nd method using the direct body measurements; and the 3rd method adopting the maximum ease amount of given body measurements whether relations or direct measurements except the direct measurement of scye depth. A comparison among the three experimental jumpers' simulated images highlighted that the appropriate ease amount of the jumper gained higher scores in terms of the jumpers' front, side, back and sleeve parts and the total silhouettes. Therefore the 3rd experimental jumper was finally selected for the heavy industry workers.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.63-84
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• 2020

It is essential to consider the heavy industrial working environment factors which are regarded as harmful to workers' health and safety and suitable work motion factors for the workers' motion while developing the work clothes for painting workers in the machinery and shipbuilding industries. This study suggests the use of 3D virtual clothing simulations as a solution to protect the human body from hazardous working conditions accompanying the development of painting work clothes and assessing the work motion performance associated with the comfort while workers wear them during the work clothes. The initial aim of the study is to examine a male avatar to run work motions simultaneously within a 3D virtual clothing simulator, secondly, to present the simulation images of coverall type men's painting work clothes with the application of two experimental painting work motions and one control motion to the avatar, and finally, to present the distance analysis images of the painting work clothes and the avatar body and air gap rates through the analysis of cross-sections of the avatar body while wearing the coverall work clothes according to the work motions. The results showed that the distance degree of painting work clothes to the avatar body for each part of the human body when performing painting work motions. Moreover, 3D virtual clothing simulations enabled the creation of a male model avatar to run painting work motions together and the painting work clothes developed were found to be suitable for the painting work motions.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.107-116
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to compare the pattern of two men's pants for education and two for industry, and to analyze the patterning method that is most suitable for the body shape of middle-aged men. As a result of appearance evaluation for 3D simulation, J pattern was evaluated as the best in most items, and H pattern was analyzed to be the most inappropriate. As a result of measuring the airgap, all four patterns of the waist circumference were evaluated to have very small airgap, and the J pattern had the smallest airgap for the pants. J pattern was analyzed as the most suitable pattern for middle-aged men's body shape by synthesizing the appearance evaluation of virtual wear, color distribution, sectional view, airgap, etc. However, in the case of J pattern, it was analyzed that the pants length needs to be modified. Since this study compared and analyzed only two patterns for education and two for industry, it is thought that the development of pants for middle-aged men should be developed through actual wearing experiments with J patterns.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.55-66
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• 2015

The objective of this study is to propose a method by which movement fitness can be evaluated using a three-dimensional virtual garment simulation program. To this end, five types of jean pants for men were evaluated on the program by setting the avatars to make particular movements to examine the level of pressure on each body part. To verify whether the clothing pressure measurement produces valid and reliable results, virtual garment simulation program was utilized. The results indicated that there were significant differences in the levels of pressure on body parts depending on the type of test garment and motion. In addition, the clothing pressure measurement results were in line with the appearance evaluation results suggested by a previous study. Based on this set of results, the nomological validity of the clothing pressure measurement program used in this study was verified. Moreover, we employed an appearance evaluation along with the clothing pressure measurement to verify the reliability of the program; there was a high correlation between clothing pressure measurements and appearance evaluation measurements, indicating that measuring clothing pressures may well compensate for the limitations of appearance evaluation. We expect the results of this study to make valuable contributions in facilitating the digitalization of the fashion industry. Furthermore, this study also is significant in that it has suggested 3D virtual fitting programs as a solution to the long-criticized problem related to the evaluation of movement fitness in existing virtual garment simulation programs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.403-415
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• 2012

This study did a comparative analysis on the patterns of several male bodice slopers, followed by evaluating the appearance through a virtual garment simulation, which used a three-dimensional virtual garment system. Through this process, this study attempted to comparatively analyze the suitability of the garment or each sloper according to body parts. The analysis of the drawing formulas of bodices slopers had the following results. With a standard chest size, all six slopers had a 1:4 ratio for a front and back chest size; 1:5 or 1:6 for a front and back breast size 1:5 or 1:4 for a neck base circumference; and 1:20 or 1:12 for the chest size. When comparing the anthropometric figures and the actual measurements of each body part for the bodice slopers, the actual measurements secured extra amounts in the drawing process. The evaluation results for appearance of the six men's bodice slopers showed that the slopers used by companies (E and F) had top scores followed by the slopers made for (C and D), while the sloper for education (A) received the lowest scores. Regarding the results of the variance analysis verifying the significant difference between the slopers, twenty-five items had significant differences with the exception of four items on the front side and one item on the backside.