• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
• /
• 제21권4호
• /
• pp.658-667
• /
• 2021

본 연구는 계몽주의 시대에 프랑스 문법서에서 기술한 다양한 운율을 현대 음성학적 관점에서 분석하고 국제음성기호의 효시가 된 도상표기법을 소개하는 것을 목적으로 한다. 세 권의 문법서와 한 권의 표기법 서적을 비교·분석하여 운율 구조를 음성학적으로 재구성하는 연구방법을 도입하였다. 당시에는 규칙성이 있는 운율악센트와 의미적·화용적 맥락에서 발생하는 웅변악센트로 악센트를 분류하여 분석을 시도한 점이 대표적이다. 운율악센트는 억양과 관계가 있으며, 웅변악센트는 억양과 세기가 중요한 운율 자질이다. 여러 문법학자에 의하여 공통적으로 관찰된 현상은 단어의 말음절 장음화이다. 현대프랑스어 악센트의 중요한 특징인 말음절 장음화는 18세기에 자리 잡은 것으로 추정할 수 있다. 다만 억양을 악센트와 동일시하는 관습 때문에 말음절 장음화를 악센트로 보지 않고 단순히 음량의 패턴으로 간주한 것으로 보인다. 또한, 억양을 통한 악센트에 관한 기술이 이전 세기의 일반이성문법학자보다 덜 정교함을 보여주었다. 운율악센트의 위치를 정확히 명시하지 않은 점, 웅변악센트에 음의 고저와 세기가 어떻게 결합되는지에 대한 설명이 부재한 점이 대표적이다. 18세기의 문법가들이 운율에 관하여 기술한 내용을 분석하면 당시의 운율 현상은 전반적으로 오늘날의 프랑스어 운율 현상과 유사하다. 현대 음성학적 관점에서 보면 말음절 장음화가 프랑스어 악센트의 중요한 특성으로 자리 잡은 시기가 바로 18세기인 것이다.

• 고문화
• /
• 4호
• /
• pp.1-16
• /
• 1966

• 복식
• /
• 제56권4호
• /
• pp.108-123
• /
• 2006

This Study is about the color images oi clothes in the early 20th century in the Eastern and Western culture and the recreation of this color images through modern costume design in film. The aim of this study is to show how early 20th century color has born reinterpreted through present film costumes and how different cultural perspectives can influence color images. For the purposes of this study, 30 pictures of clothing, representative of the early 20th century, as well as films which have been internationally recognized for their costume design and strong cultural identity('Farewell M) 'Concubine', 'Raise the Red Lantern', 'Chicago' and 'The English Patient') were chosen and analyzed. The color image of these photographs and scenes from the movies were divided by Pantone Solid Chips and categorized by color groups such as red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet, neutral and metallic. The analysis results of the color images in the early 20th century showed that the red group was used a lot in both cultures and the orange group was more often used in the West. In regards to the yellow group, goldish yellow were commonly used in the West but pale yellow was preferred in the East. The green group more used In the West but the blue group appears more in the East. Also, there were differences in color combination, texture and technique which demonstrates different cultural color recognition and association. In the case of film color image, present color image was added to past color image. In the West, color was used as a tool for visualizing the state of characters' mind and the mood of movies' story but in the East color image was intended to make the character stand out by changing the value and chroma. By comparing the color image of clothes from the early 20th century and color image from film in the West and the East, it is possible to analyze the cultural symbolic image of color. This study is one of first trials to analyze the cultural differences in rotor images and their symbolic meaning. Thus, further studies should persue to find out the influence of culture on the rotor image in terms of specific quantity and quality.

• 한국제4기학회지
• /
• 제15권1호
• /
• pp.47-52
• /
• 2001

설악산 백담산장 (해발고 400m) 지역에서 자라는 소나무를 이용하여 141년 (A.D. 1858∼1998)간의 나무나이테(연륜) 연대기를 작성하여 4월∼8월 총강수량을 복원하였다. 복원한 결과 1880∼1887년, 1893∼1901년, 1922∼1938년은 건조기로 나타났으며, 1906∼1918년은 습윤기로 나타났다. 장기간 변동으로 보았을 때, 19세기말과 20세기초는 20세기 후반기보다 건조하였다. 전기간에 걸친 가뭄주기는 4.14년과 3.16년으로 분석되어 장주기보다 단주기 변화가 우세하였다.

• 기호학연구
• /
• 제57호
• /
• pp.91-120
• /
• 2018

이 논문은 18세기 가사 작품인 옥국재 이운영의 <임천별곡(林川別曲)>에 나타난 근대성 양상에 대해 고찰해 보고자 한다. 18세기는 시대적으로 파격적인 모습을 형성한 시기였다. 그렇기 때문에 근대성을 드러내기에는 가장 알맞은 시기라고 할 수 있다. 이 시기는 정치, 경제, 사회, 문화적인 면에서도 사상과 체제의 변화가 일어났고, 봉건사회 붕괴의 가장 큰 요인인 신분체계가 흔들렸다. 이 변화는 새로운 근대의식이 시작되는 시기라고 볼 수 있다. <임천별곡(林川別曲)>은 이운영의 자전적인 이야기라고 보는 경향도 있다. 이는 이운영이 진보적인 실학사상을 가지고 있다고는 하지만 양반됨을 욕보이면서 자신의 처지를 드러내지는 않았을 것으로 보인다. 이에 논자는 여항으로부터 전해들은 이야기가 현실적으로 더 타당하다고 여겨진다. 또한, <임천별곡(林川別曲)>은 애정가사로 알려졌지만, 풍자비판적인 특징이 강하기에 애정가사로 보기 어렵다는 견해이며, 서사적 양상이 대화체라는 특이한 형식으로 서술되고 있다는 것이 특징이다. <임천별곡(林川別曲)>에 드러난 근대성 양상으로는 두 가지를 꼽았다. 하나는 '사랑과 욕망에 대한 저항'이고 다른 하나는 '신분질서의 해체'이다. 그레마스 행위소 모형으로 이 두 가지 양상을 제시하였다. <임천별곡>은 유교적 이데올로기, 신분제도 등의 조선의 봉건사회에 대한 저항과 반항의 형태로 이타적인 요소들에 대한 변화하는 근대적 조선을 드러내고자 하는 노력의 성과라 할 수 있다. 논자는 '저항'과 '해체'라는 말로 대신하였지만, 18세기 조선의 봉건사회에 대한 부패한 지배층과 착취당하는 서민층의 삶을 늙은 생원과 할멈으로 비유하여 제시하였던 것이다. 18세기 등장한 전통적인 봉건사회의 비판은 중세와 근대를 구별 짓는 헤게모니의 변화로 드러났고, 이러한 헤게모니의 변화는 18세기 전후의 차이를 드러내는 결과를 낳게 되었다. 18세기 가사문학에서는 이러한 헤게모니가 정확하게 구분되지는 못하였지만, 19세기에 이르러서는 정착되어 발전하는 양상을 보였다고 할 수 있다. 논자는 이러한 변화를 이끌어 내는데 중요한 역할을 한 작품으로 <임천별곡>이 있음을 제시하였다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제12권1호
• /
• pp.89-101
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study was to investigate the fashion item of the symbolic fashion icons in the 20th century. The symbolism of fashion icons was grouped into four classes according to the influence of a social-cultural change. 1. Icons between dream and reality: A dreary emotion that was caused by material richness has a longing for an ideal image. A typical style was Art Nouveau style, which pressed into a grotesque S-bend. While as the world placed on a economic reconstruction after World War I, rational fashion icon which pursued more function and simplify than cumbersome style and complexity came out. 2. Icons between solid and liquid: A solid icons was connected with a mode of female body during World War 1. This extremely stylized female figure. Flowing fabrics enveloped the stylized female figure and they brought a liquid icons into relief. 3. Icons between uniformity and variety: At a time when uniformity was appeared strongly within 20th century is during World War II and about 1940-1950. The uniformal icon was classified into uniformity by uniform and by mass production. A repugnance for the uniformity and imitation of fashion was tried a new fashion style. It could be called with the various of fashion icon. 4. Icons between social secession and rediscovery: In 1950-1960, 1970-1990, and the end of 20th century, the advent of the young culture was born a consumer who newly breaks in fashion. It could be included within the domain of social secession icon. While the rediscovery of fashion icon was associated with experimental new fibers, leotard, suitable replacement for wool or acrylic knit, silk that could stretch in any direction, new fabrics that were transparent, took color beautifully, and could be painted, tie-dyed, or embroidered.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제12권4호
• /
• pp.43-59
• /
• 2010

In the first half of 20th century, there was an abrupt change in society and social values. Therefore, a demand for functional women's sportswear started to increase. This paper has attempted to investigate the impact of functionalism on women's sportswear in the first half of the 20th century. The following results were obtained: First, anti-tradition was observed. There was a tendency to be separated from the past and against tradition. It was tried to pursue freedom, getting away from corset and petticoat. Second, structural functions were targeted. In other words, precise and efficient shapes and simple silhouette and line were emphasized. Third, fitness of purpose was found. More liberal and comfortable design has been targeted. That's why a variety of functional pants have been designed instead of skirts. Fourth, utility and practicality were found. Elastic fabrics such as wool and jersey and sweater have commonly used in sportswear. A variety of new fabrics have been used and details such as flare, slit and pleats have been designed. Lastly, non-ornamentality was found. The beauty of simple shape was pursued by omitting details or eliminating unnecessary ornaments. Monochrome and dark color were preferred and a use of accessories has declined. The result of this paper could be used in establishing a theoretical framework on the impact on social change, values and art and helpful In modern women's sportswear design and marketing which have become more important.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제30권2호
• /
• pp.281-296
• /
• 2022

This study is designed to compensate for the lack of children's clothing relics from the early 18th century and to reproduce young upper-class girls' costume as hanbokcontent. The shapes and materials of costumes are based on the record of 『Sukjong-silrok』 in 1701 and the characteristics of adult ladie's costume relics in this period, but reproduced as miniatures of these relics as like Joseon children's clothing of another period. The reproduced costumes are formal wear for 3~4 year-old girls, consisting of yeoui [女衣], long unlined skirts, and lined skirts. Sizes were set at a height ratio of approximately 155:95. Yeoui is sam-hoejang-jeogori using pine pollen-colored damask with a grape-squirrel pattern and a purple damask with flower-treasure pattern. The full length of yeoui is 24.5cm. It has a square-dangko outer collar with square inner collar. The long unlined skirt is a six-width overskirt that is 82cm long, made with lotus patterned sa. The lined skirt is a five-width skirt that is 61.3cm made with flower-treasure patterned red damask and ju. Several long pleats on both sides of these two skirts have been omitted. The result provides meaningful content for children's clothing in the early 18^th century and will be used as costume for an educational trial performance.

• 복식
• /
• 제55권6호
• /
• pp.38-50
• /
• 2005

A chronological classification of Sangbok(상복) and Sibok(시복) for officers in Joseon Dynasty is proposed in this paper. The classification results in four distinct periods according to the usage of Sangbok and Sibok as well as their colers and naming: 1) the mixed usage period, 2) the usage-differentiation period, 3) the name-differentiation period, and 4) name-reversal period. During the mixed usage period which lasted until the early 15th century, Sangbok and Sibok were used with no distinction. In the usage-differentiation period, the King Sejong first made a regulation on the use of colors of Dal-lyung according to the occasion and black colored uniforms were used only for daily cabinet meetings. In the 16th century, the names of Sangbok and Sibok began to be used distinctively: Sangbok for formal clothing in black color and Sibok for ordinary clothing in pink color This period is defined as the name-differentiation period in this paper. In the name-reversal period f·hick begun around the 17th century, the usages as well as the colors of Sangbok and Sibok are totally reversed because of some confusions of the understanding on the previous government publications. However, the distinction of formal clothing and ordinary clothing remained.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제6권2호
• /
• pp.127-140
• /
• 1998

A study on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century based on the shrouds from excavated tomb of Kim, Heum-Jo(1461-1528) is reported in this paper. This study is aimed at establishing database for a traditional Korean costume construction and emphasizing the necessity for development of methodology in writing report from excavated costume including measuring, construction methods and materials. This paper includes examples of measured length for each part of 'Dan-Ryung', reconstructured drawings, pictures, and construction methods. The followings on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century are found in this study: 1) Dan-Ryung robes were made of less expensive hemp, cotton, silk & cotton, and ramie & silk. 2) As a whole, Dan-Ryung was lengthy and spacious and it had straighter and narrower sleeves when compared to the ones from the late Chosun. 3) There existed Moo which was large rectangular guest with double pleats at Dan-Ryung's side seam. Its round collar was constructed with a 3 cm width bias. Ball buttons on the outer collar and loops on the right shoulder are attached. 4) There existed a pair of indirectly attached slim and short strings. Inside string is directly attached. 5) Inside of the shoulder, a U-shaped shoulder pad made of the same cloth as the inner cloth was attached. hand sewing methods used include delicate flat-felled seam stitch, back-stitch and sew-up stitch.