• Title/Summary/Keyword: $20^{th}$ century

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A Study on the Changes of Power Shoulder Shape in Contemporary Fashion (현대패션에 나타난 파워 숄더의 형태 변화 연구)

  • Kim, Hyoju;Bae, Soojeong
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.20 no.1
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    • pp.157-172
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    • 2016
  • The purpose of this thesis was to investigate the transitional aspects of the power shoulders with a comparative analysis of the patterns observed from the late 20th century to the present. The method of study was through review of papers as well as phenomenological approaches. Books, domestic and international journals, and dissertations were studied as part of the paper review. Phenomenological study was performed by analyzing the pictures from late 20th to present; and categorized by 10 year time span i. e., 1980-1990, and 2002-2012. Hundred representative fashion photos were selected, respectively. As a result, the power shoulder found in late 20 centuries was largely limited to horizontal and diagonal shape, addressed mainly to the jackets; while they were straight, and wide shouldered, with emphasis on masculine style. On the other hand, in early 21 century, the power shoulder was applied in various forms of straight, diagonal, circular and ornamental with objects, not only to the jackets, but also to feminine styles such as one-piece dress, vest, and blouse. This finding may be attributed to the fact that the modern people desire newer trends and women tend to show off their ability in transcending those of men. The findings of analysis of the transitional aspects of power shoulder in this thesis might contribute as basic resources for anticipating the trends that might be revived in the future.

Study on the Characteristics of Western Rocker style In Early 20th Century (20세기 초기 서양 흔들의자의 양식적 특징)

  • Lim, Seung-Taek
    • Journal of agriculture & life science
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    • v.45 no.6
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    • pp.21-32
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    • 2011
  • This research is intended to study literatures relating to western rocking chairs style in early 20th century in order to provide basic data of designs for rockers of today in Korea and investigate characteristics of rocking chair from academic, formative and pragmatic perspectives. During the first half of 20th century, western rocking chairs (1925~1945) embodied actively the simple functionalism concept that furniture design must follow functionality considerations. Therefore, bare wood rocking chairs were without any surface decoration and tubular steel frame rocking chairs often included black leather upholstery in a bold attempt to express exposed structure. And the fact that tubular steel produced such lightweight furniture was crucial importance. Many Modernist designer created curvaceous lines of new pattern changes in their furniture. The structure of Modern rocking chair became all-important, for stylistic as well as functional reasons. Designers equated exposed structure of tubular steel and wooden frame with integrity and rationality and create an equalitarian style of design. Especially, designers in the early 20th century did use various brilliantly colored upholstery and wooden frame with simple forms of modern characteristics.

A Study on Symbolism of Western Heraldry - Focused on Western Heraldry, Dress and its Ornaments of the Middle Ages - (서양문장의 상징성에 관한 연구 -중세 서양문장과 복장을 중심으로-)

  • 최영옥
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.18 no.1
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    • pp.140-159
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    • 1994
  • Heraldry, which originated from the culture of knights in the 12th century, came to be drawn on shields, and was inherited as a symbol of the family at the end of the 12th century and developed rapidly through the 13th and 14th century. Afterwards heraldry was in great vogue and used in the shields, clothes of men and women, armors, housings and flags. Therefore the citizen class as well as nobles and knights came to possess heraldry. In particular parti-color and impaled coat were accepted in the clothes, and served the dual purpose of status symbol and ornament in the 13th century. It can be said that the appearance of heraldry on the clothes was typical of the Middle Ages. The origin, generally accepted, was that the crusaders wore the surcots, also known as the cyclases, on the armors to prevent the powerful sun of Syria and dust of deserts, and to prevent the armors from rusting due to moisture. As the surcot was made of white linen or white silk till the beginning of the 13th century, knight's heraldry came to be put on the surcot in order to identify each corps. According as the coat of mail covering all the body was devised, the same heraldry attached on the shield seemed to appear on the clothes of surcot or jupon(afterwards pourpoint) in order to identify the status in the battlefield and tournament. Heraldry, a system of mark in the 12th century, was used as a symbol of authority of the upper class such as the Royal House, nobles and knights, and may have been mysterious instruments in the Milddle Ages. However, in the modern times of the 20th century heraldry has come to be a kind of symbol marks such as badges and banners symbolizing the hallmark of the goods of enterprises, organizations and groups. Heraldry, existing up to now, of the individuals as well as international organizations can be seen as a result of deep-rooted tradition for esthetic appreciation and symbolism for heraldry.

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A Study on the Stylistic Expression of Late 20th Century Interior Design (현대(現代) 후기(後期) 실내디자인의 표현성(表現性))

  • Lee Choon-Sub
    • Journal of Science of Art and Design
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    • v.1
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    • pp.189-226
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    • 1999
  • The purpose of this paper is to examine the common characteristics of late 20th century interior design style and the post-modern thinking system. A period has its own predominant spirit which determine the tendency of art, and the ubiquitous power in the spirit decides the period's pattern of art. Therefore the interior design style belongs to general art sphere that has its own individual character derived from the dominant power of the controlling system. Paying special attention to this understanding, the auther has processed this paper by combining the post-modem thinking with special characteristics of each of the 20th century interior design style. Until now, researches have been focused on the individual style of post-modern design; however, a general research comprising the whole characteristics of expression has not been made. Accordingly, the rationale of emphasizing the general point of view is establshed. Also, this study suggests a model applicable to studies concerning other art area. This type of methodology is receving more attention as an approach investigating new art ideology for researching post-modern thinking and late 20th century art styles. The conclusions are as follows: First, the distinctive expressions of postmodernism appear to be characteristic of illusion, metaphor, pluralism, decoration, and symmetry, Those of late modernism appear to be the characteristic of complicated simplicity and symplified complexity, passiveness of symbolism and harmony, indeterminacy of form and space, and unintentional decorativeness. And the characteristics of deconstructionism are spatial difference and temporal defferal, and un-reductive and non formal abstractiveness of the space, unfinishness, chance, and secretiveness of individual style. Second, the disinctive expression seems to share common characteristics with postmodern thinking. The best examples are pluralism, non-formalism, populism, and historicism, originating from the deconstruction of 'meta-narrative'. Third, based on the second conclusion, general distinctive expression could be simplified as chacteristics of plurality, hybridity, and indeterminacy. These expressive chacteristics appear to be automatically connected with general postmodern thinking. Last, in consideration of the above conclusion, the extreme generality could be distinctively clarified as 'textural co-exsistence'. Accordingly, the author might confirm that 'textural co-existence' originated from the text that comes from postmodern thinking. In conclusion, design expression of late 20th century interior design accepts the ?universal theme of ubiquitous postmodern thinking. And universal expressions and supreme generality can be common analysis tools for understanding and studying complicated late 20th century interior design.

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Material Analysis of the late 19th century to 20th century Women's Hats Ornaments in National Folk Museum of Korea (국립민속박물관 소장 19세기 말~20세기 여성용 쓰개 장식의 재질분석)

  • Lee, Sae Rom;Oh, Joon Suk;Hwang, Min Young
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.35 no.2
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    • pp.169-176
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    • 2019
  • The material composition of 19 ornaments used for women's hats in the late $19^{th}$ century to $20^{th}$ century, which are kept at National Folk Museum of Korea, was analyzed using SEM-EDS. Sixteen ornaments were composed of $Na_2O$ and PbO, which form adifferent lead glass from those that have been excavated or handed down since ancient times in Korea. The chemical composition analysis has confirmed that two ornaments belong to the mixed alkali glass, while one belongs to the potash glass IIItype. This lead glass is similar in composition to the Japanese craft lead glass that was imported to Joseon during the Japanese colonial era. It is estimated that the lead glass ornaments used in women's hats in the late $19^{th}$ century to $20^{th}$ century were made from raw materials imported from Japan or made from lead glass used for crafts in Japan. This shows that jewelry such as jade and amber, which have been traditionally used in the modern and present ages, have been replaced by craft lead glass imported from Japan.

Multi-Culture in Men's Fashion (남성 패션에 표현된 다중 문화)

  • 이민선
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.51 no.7
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    • pp.21-33
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    • 2001
  • The purpose of this study is to Investigate the value of multi-culture and to examine how multi-culture has been reflected in men's fashion. As for the research methodology, literary research was under taken to study psychoanalytical and socioeconomic contexts in which multi-culture in men's fashion has been formed. In addition, demonstrative studies on styles were undertaken through the analysis of pictures and photos. The historical range of this study is from the 19th century when western and modern original form of men's dress were visualized, to the year 2001 when the elements of multi-culture are expressed in men's fashion. Westerners in 19th century respected Greek fine arts and the desire for realistic restoration of the body of Greek hero is well reflected in men's suits. Other races were forced to believe such realistic depiction of the Greek body as a symbol of modernization. With the advent of the Information Society In the late 20th century, absolute power had been decentralized, and people in the third world have revealed the racial contradictions by realizing the concept of splitted subject existing In unconscious. In the post-colonial world in the late 20th century, the value of diverse cultures is admitted. Models come from various races in fine art or photographic work Fashion trends are no longer limited to dominant mode, and designers express multi-culture by adopting and renewing folk elements from all over the world.

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The Historical Research of the Future Housing Planning Concept(1) -Focused on the Future Housing Planning Concept proposed from the 19C to the beginning of the 20C- (미래주거 계획개념의 전개과정에 대한 역사적 고찰(1) -19세기-20세기 전반기에 제시된 미래주거 계획개념을 중심으로-)

  • 김미경;박영순
    • Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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    • no.14
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    • pp.90-98
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    • 1998
  • At the threshold of the 21st century People have been exploring the future of each field. Accordingly In the area of housing the increase in income level and high-technology development facilitated full scale research on the future housing. The purpose of this research is to try to set up a systematic theory on the future housing by investigating theoretical backgrounds of the future housing and development of the future housing planning concept, A document research method was used to analyze the development of the future housing planning concept of three periods from its origin in the 19th century to present : the burgeoning period growing period and maturing period. In particulary this research examines development of the future housing planning concept from the 19th century in which future housing planning concept was emerged to the early part of the 20th century: the burgeoning period. The future housing planning concepts of this period are analyzed as follows ; In order to solve the social problems arising in the process of the Industrial Revolution, the concept such as ; "ideal city", "high rise apartment housing" and "industrialized housing" was formulated. housing" was formulated.ated.

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Articulations of Southeast Asian Religious Modernisms: Islam in Early 20th Century Cambodia & Cochinchina

  • Noseworthy, William B.
    • SUVANNABHUMI
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    • v.9 no.1
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    • pp.109-132
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    • 2017
  • This article is about the emergence of Islamic modernism among Cham Muslim communities in Cambodia and Cochinchina during the early 20th century. Based on a combined critical reading of existing scholarship, historicized first-hand anthropological accounts, as well as archival sources from the National Archives of Cambodia and the Vietnam National Archives II, it argues accounts of modernists in these sources were either (1) cast through a French colonial reading of a Buddhist state lens and (2) cast through a Malay lens, based upon the Kaum Muda/Kaum Tua divide. First, it proceeds with a historical explanation of the emergence of Islam and the discourse used to describe Muslim communities in Vietnamese, French, and Cham language sources. Then, it turns the narrative toward an examination of the emergence of the "Kaum Muda" or "New Group" of reformist-minded modernist Muslims in early 20th century Cambodia. Delineating the networks of these intellectuals as they stretched across the border through Cochinchina, also highlights a pre-existing transnational element to the community, one that well predates current discussions of twenty-first-century transnationalism. Through a combination of the study of multiple language sources and historical methods, the article highlights the importance of polylingualism in the study of the history of Muslims in Southeast Asia.

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The Process of the Quickening and Development of Science-Technology- Society Education in the United Kingdom (I) - Between the Beginning of the 19th Century and the Middle of the 20th Century - (영국에서의 과학-기술-사회 교육의 태동과 발전 과정( I )-19세기 초반에서 20세기 중반까지를 중심으로-)

  • Song, Jin-Woong
    • Journal of The Korean Association For Science Education
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    • v.19 no.3
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    • pp.409-427
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    • 1999
  • The aim of this study was to illustrate how STS-related ideas in science education have been developed historically in the context of British education, particularly focused on the period of the 19th century and the first half of the 20th century. It has been hardly considered that the basic ideas of the STS education, one of the two paradigms of current science education together with constructivism, can be traced back to the beginning of the school science education itself. far beyond some of the programs which are largely regarded as the first-developed STS programs in Britain, such as Science in Society and SISCON. The movement of Mechanics' Institute during the first half of the 19th century would be the first systematic attempt to bridge the gap between the knowledge of pure science and its practical applications, although the main target was working-class adults rather than school pupils. At the end of the first half of the 19th century, this application-focused approach of science teaching was echoed in the elementary schools by Richard Dawes, one of the early experimenters of school science. The second half of the century was in large the period of the establishment of science as one of the core elements of school curriculum, mainly by emphasizing the aspect of pure science as a means for mental training. During this period, the elements of STS education-related appeared in the subject called 'Object Lesson' in elementary schools which was practically a separate subject from those of science. After the turn of the century, triggered by the experience of World War I, the growing appreciation of the impacts of science upon society and of the necessity of the teaching of science for wider audience gave a great impact towards two new main movements, i.e. for General Science and Citizen Science. The later illustrates a typical example of the STS movement in school science during the first half of the 20th century, particularly driven by the socialistic ideas towards the relation between science and society.

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Wedding culture & lists of wedding gifts from the Gyungnam area in the 20th century (20세기 경남 지역의 혼례문화와 혼례물목)

  • Cho, Imsun;Lee, Eunjin
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.25 no.2
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    • pp.159-174
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    • 2017
  • The study uses lists of wedding gifts used from old Korean documents written in Hangeul in the western Gyungnam province during the 20th century. The study analyzed four lists of wedding gifts from the Muncheongak archive and two lists from the archive of ancient document. This analysis found that clothing accounts for the majority of the items in the lists, and items such as furniture, jewelry, household goods, and medical materials were also recorded. That the furnishings were commonly prepared by the groom's side, and the fact that the number of jeogori was higher than the number of skirt, speaks to the unique wedding custom of Gyeongsang province. While the groom's list of wedding gifts included a record of the bride's ornaments, jewelry, and furnishings in the bride's list, the groom's nickel top-knot pin was only included as an ornament. In the list of wedding gifts between brothers, the gifts for the eldest son differed from those for the third son in terms of number and price. The list of wedding gifts between father and son illustrates how economic development and changing times wedding custom. The lists of wedding gifts in the old Korean documents shed light on the oral research into 20th century wedding custom, which will be used as basic data in researching and reproducting the wedding culture and life conditions of the time.