• 복식
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• 제58권3호
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• pp.19-33
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• 2008

Hair style of royal ladies in the 19th century according to the wedding record of King Heon-jong and Lady Sunhwagung is studied in this paper and summarized as follows: First, Saengmeori was a bridal hair style for the wedding night in Gyeonmagi(jacket) and Daeranchima(Skirt with gold trimming). It was a typical girls' hair style before the coming-of-age ceremony. It was composed of Saengmeoridari(wig), Seockunghwang, Jogduri(Coronet decorated with Jewellery), Saengdaeng-gi(hair ribbon) trimmed pearls, and jade disk trimmed pearls. Second, Garaemeori(double bun hair style) was the hair style with Wonsam when the chosen bride went to Byeol-Gung, a special palace for the bridal. It was composed of Gareachi(wig) and Cheopji(small wig) with the frontal hair ornament, jogduri, and Saidang-gi(hair ribbon). Third, Jojimmeori(single bun hair style) is a basic hair style for the madame. It was composed of jojimmeorichilbo, jogduri, jojimmeoridari(wig), and Cheopji with a frontal hair ornament. Fourth, Keunmeori is the second most important hair style for the court ceremony. It was composed of Eoyeomjogduri, Eoyeomdari(wig), Cheopji with a frontal hair ornament, Keunmeoridari(wig), and Keunmeorichilbo. Fifth, Susik, the most important hair style for the court ceremony, is the hair style for ceremonies including the day of becoming the formal queen, the first greeting day to the King's family. It was composed of 4 kinds of wigs and Susik-chilbo.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제41권5호
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• pp.193-203
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• 2003

Magoja is a jacket for men and women. Magoja was worn between the jacket, jogori and the coat durumagi; that is over the jacket and under the coat. In the 19th century, Daewon-kun, who was wearing maqua, was in China and he came back to Korea. So, it was believed that the origin of magoja was from maqua from Qing. But, there were differences between magoja and maqua in their design. Therefore, I researched the origin of magoja and tried to know the design and the method of wearing magoja in the Chosun dynasty. The results are as follows. The design of magoja, especially its collar, was different from Chinese maqua. As analyzed above, it is difficult to regard the origin of magoja as deriving from Daewon-kun's maqua, which he wore when he went to Qing. Magoja-style jacket can be found from many old pictures. The collar of those jacket, whose style was waonsam-git unlike the present-day magoja, is consistent with the collar of sagyusam or baeja. And this kind of git style had existed for a long period of time as already studied in bangryungbangbi. Furthermore, the origin of this kind of jacket dated back to the maeksu of the Sung Dynasty; maek meaning Koguryo, maeksu was understood to indicate the style of the Koguryo jacket of short sleeves for the convenience of horseback riding. Maeksu, which varied in its kind and style, had been used as the equestrian clothes in China and was assumed to be particularly put on widely during the Yuan and Sung Dynasties. Maeksu continued to exist as daegeumeui during the Ming Dynasty but, later called magua, it was worn more widely ding the Qing Dynasty of the Manchus. This kind of maeksu or magua was the jacket which could be put on the coat and this style of wearing it during the Chosun Dynasty could be confirmed by the pictures. Therefore, magoja is not the jacket which was all of sudden derived from Qing's magua but one of traditional Korean clothes of the northern provinces which had existed for a long period of time. And magoja seemed to be put on more widely during the latter part of the Chosun Dynasty because of the influence of Qing's magua.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2008

Men's outer wear, such as jackets and coats appeared since the 16th century. They have been changed from doublets, coats, justaucorps, tail-coats, frock coats and morning coats to contemporary men's suits. Since the early 17th century, sleeve patterns of men's outer jackets had been mostly two-pieces close fitted patterns. The purpose of this article is to compare sleeve patterns of various jackets, which appear in various historic costume books. Armhole measurements, sleeve head measurements, amounts of ease, armhole depths, armhole widths, crown heights, sleeve width and sleeve angle had been compared to find out the differences among patterns of different times and styles. Coming to the present, the difference between top sleeve and under sleeve became more obvious, and the sleeve angle became less curvy. Another interesting point is that there had been considerable amounts of ease, which is the difference between sleeve head measurements and corresponding armhole measurements. It is because the sleeve has been attached to the armhole not by seam but by string. It is believed that the present sleeves have more natural curve and shape compared to the past.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권8호
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• pp.1190-1201
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• 2007

This study is to review the costumes of female Shamans through Gamrotaenghwa(甘露幀畵) in the late Joseon Dynasty of the 18th and 19th centuries. The picture of Mudangnaeryeok(巫堂來歷) showing Shamanic performances which is kept in Kyujanggak, Seoul National University was the only one thing enabling to compare with the Shamanic costumes shown in Gamrotaenghwa. The earlier Gamrotaenghwa doesn't show the Shamanic features but that of the later part of 18th century shows specific costumes so that the scene of Shamanic performance can be guessed. The Shamanic costumes are classified into 5 types. Type A is considered to have followed the figures shown commonly in earlier Gamrotaenghwa of the 16th and 17th centuries, rather than the traditional costumes. Types B through E show the costumes of the Joseon dynasty. With the basic costumes of skirt and Chogori(a kind of jacket, Type B), the variable costumes worn for each type of Shamanic performances are Mongduri(蒙頭里, Type C), Jeonbok(戰服, Type D) and Cheolrik(天翼, Type E). Reviewing the general style of those costumes, the upper part was tight and the lower part was silhouette of big volume, and the length of Chogori was a little long in the early of 18th century but it became shorter with narrower sleeves from the later part of the same century. According to the general literatures about the outer collars were not overlapped and its side parts were open, with half or no sleeves. In case that the target of Shamanic performance is male god, the Shaman wore the male costumes represented by Cheolrik and Jeonbok. Because these Cheolrik and Jeonbok which were worn during the Shamanic performance have the symbolic meaning to correspond with the male god, they didn't function as ordinary costumes.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.55-70
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• 2017

This study researched transition process of fur costume from ancient times to 20th century, extracted esthetic characteristics, and then understood how the esthetic characteristics appear in the recent fur collection. The result is as follows. First, magical meaning was revealed on leopard fur that ancient chief priests wore on top of shenti to symbolize immorality and fur tunics to which christian symbol was added in Byzantine. During middle age and the Renaissance, extravagance appeared on sable and amin jackets that the noble decorated to show off their high status. During the rococo age and mid-20th century, sensuality and elegance appeared on the fur dresses that the female body was emphasized. Second, in recent collection, extravagance appeared on over-sized and voluminous fox-coat, sexsuality and elegance were revealed through mink-dresses and jackets with soft touch and gloss that curved-silhouette was emphasized. In addition, practicality and functionality were shown through short length and light, soft material, and activeness was in the mink jacket to which functional elements such as zippers and rubber were added. To pursue uniqueness and fun, fox jackets were made with over-sized vivid green color. Besides, abnormality and vulgarness appeared through the fashion with abnormal and distracted images with ambiguous forms and new processing methods applied.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.80-88
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• 2006

This study attempted to undertake comparative analysis of woman's jacket pattern and details based on the Crinoline and Bustle style of the 19th century, comprehend the relation and differences between the two styles. And it also presented the resultant characteristics and attempted reproducing the original dress of the past for the development of modern woman's jacket design. Larger portion was occupied for the breast front width than the back width for both Crinoline and Bustle style, which indicated the remarkable difference between these styles and modern jackets in terms of pattern size. Circumferences also showed that both styles had larger size for the front region than for the back. Divided by two types of pattern shape. The Crinoline style has a waist line and flare. On the other hand, the Bustle style does not have a waist line and has pleats. These two styles shows distinct differences of patterns even if they seem similar. It was essential to undertake the designing of models by giving a consideration to the characteristics of patterns of the two styles. With respect to how to sketch the study models which will be applied for the reproduction to modern body sizes were as follows: the front bust circumference; B/4 +1+1 cm, the back bust circumference; B/4 +1-1 cm, front waist circumference; W/4 +1+1 cm, back waist circumference; W/4 +1-1 cm, the height of sleeve crown; AH/3, armhole line; B/4, the back width /2; 17.5 cm, the breast front width /2; 16.5cm. And for the rest parts, sizes reflecting the characteristics of the patterns of two styles have been applied.

• 복식
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• 제19권
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• pp.209-240
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• 1992

The costume of any nation is an attribute of a culture. This study concerns chinese and Mongolian costume's 'collar' form according to the observation of some reports about import folk materials and the pictures of the genuine objects, the author has investigated and rearranged them focusing on 13th Century's. 1. Traditional OverCoat or National costume on the poing of won dynasty in china such as Jacket, Coat, Mantle for making classical matching color, lacing, pearl pieces, and all costume shall be properly decorated and disigned. The example, Chinese Women's Gown and Double Jacket, on top of alignment of plaid, focus shall be placed on chinese classical form and color-matching, such as flowers and bireds, butterflies, made wishing ornaments, which shall be either hand painted or embroidered on collars, fronts, sleeves openings, and lower portion of gown. 2. Mongolian Costume, the stone status of a person, are seen at the territory of the Republic of Mongolia was a powerful country of Asia. So during the Mongolian Empire a lot of Missions from many countries came to kharakorom for establishing official relations between Mongolia and a country represented by mission. In particularly, the costume of mongols on the point of Chinggis khan Empire which the upper clothes in cluded ; a several kinds of the Caftan as compared with in Korea as to material (Silk caftan, Cotton Caftan, Fur Caftan) with closing to the right due to overlapping and Stand-up-Shawl Collars will pancho style & Round or V Neckline. 3. As compared with in Korea it is said that this a sort of Simui was brought in prior to the middle of Koryeo dynasty. Korean Simui system was complied with chinese system through confucian domestic behaviour. This was respected for court dress of confucian scholars, as it was, Chumri can ordinary dress of schloars) and Hakchangui ( a uniform of confucian student). Generally its form or shape of the outer lapels of Korean jacket were used together Squar-Tray-Collar. In late Yi-dynasty the inside collar length was longer than the outside collar length and the width of the collar was gradually narrow. And so the Traditional costume's outer collar of Jacket and OverCoat became small while the width and length of breast-tie became large. The same thing as the form of the collar on these days had been appeared by the design method or adjust one's dress. Therefore the form of collar in the china and Mongolian Traditional OverCoat & National Costume is fix arranged according to Stand up Collar, Without Collar, Clothing to the Right, Central opening, Horizontal Row of Button with Round or V Neckline and so on.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.933-945
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to examine the current foreign languages of clothing terms which have been misused, clarify the meanings and suggest the unified teams. The results are as follows. First, English and Japanese are great parts of the origins of the clothing terms in foreign languges which have been misused. And next, there were French, German, Portuguese and Spanish via English and Japanese. Especially, the misused foreign languages in styles, materials of clothing are also via English and Japanese. The compound words in Japanese are many parts of them and misused Japanese, Japanese via English, French, German, Dutch, Spanish, Poltuguese, and some terms can not be found their origin. (ex: 색채, 컬러, 카라) In case of the colors of clothing, the terms have the English marking rules and the Japanese pronounciation. And some unified terms are Korean, English, and Chinese letters. (ex: 빨강, 레드, 적색) There are lots of the misused foreign lagusges in sewing terms. On each case, the corresponding words in English and Japanese were suggested to understand easily. The most of the unified words were suggested in Korean. (ex: 하찌사시 $\rightarrow$ 하자시; padding stitch, 팔자뜨기) In clothing construction, there were lots of the misused terms in Japanese and the corrupted terms of Japanese. And so the explains and the unified terms were suggested. (ex: 구세토리, 몸새맞춤, 나찌, 가위집 (내기)) Finally, the origins of terms in western history of costume were clarified and analyzed the meanings : $\circled1$robe, $\circled2$ jacket, gipon, pourpoint, doublet, justaucorps, habit, flock(coat), cutaway, swallow tail coat, 배광, lounge suit, $\circled3$ coat Robe is the gown style garment which was used by men and women from the Middle ages, the jacket is a short, coat-like garment and coat is a long outer garment. Each origin is different, however the 'jacket' and the 'coat' were used confusely in the middle of 19th century.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.178-197
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• 2008

Due to the inflow of the western culture since the 19th century, female skirts and jackets have been changed considerably in detail though their basic composition was maintained. The analysis on female jackets from the start of the modern period to 1960s has been undertaken with artefacts as well as reports and research dissertations related to them. For period appraisal, analysis was divided into several periods which are from 1890s to 1910s, and every 10 years afterwards. As a result, aspects for the appraisal in each period was found. Aspects for period appraisal in modern jackets can be a change in total length and side length, a change in shape of the sleeves (from straight to round), a change in width, and a difference in closed shape of the collars. Material and color can be another aspect which shows fashionable material or new materials (man-made textile or nylon) of each period, color combination of surface and lining material as well as other parts of the jacket, use of a stiffener made with net or sheer textiles. Research using books and archives is important for the appraisal of the garment artifact. However, most of all, one should have the attitude of examining the artifacts frequently in order to achieve deeper understanding and an eye for accurate appraisal.

• 복식
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• 제63권8호
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• pp.58-75
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• 2013

Steampunk is a term generally used for one of the S. F. subgenre in literature, arts, fashion styles, and lifestyles. This study clarifies formative characteristics as well as the meanings of steampunk fashion style based on its attributes in movies and animations. Attributes of the steampunk are blending time, blending technology, and introspection against science development. In order to have an objective research, this study researched frequency of the fashion item, color, accessory of the collected fashion image, and after interpreted that consequence. Men's steampunk fashion was composed of men's basic outfit such as shirts, vest, jacket, pants, and coats of the 19th century. Black color took up the largest proportion for color. In accessory, top hat, goggle, and steam-powered weapons, in order, were most commonly used. Women's steampunk fashion was composed of shirts and long one-piece dresses, long skirt simply applied 19th victorian style fashion. Yellow, brown, and black color took up the largest proportion of fashion color. In accessory, top hat, belt trimming, corset, and boots, in order, were most commonly used. It is the characteristics of the steampunk fashion that represents retro-future fashion, as it features steam-powered mechanic esthetics, a kind of DIY subculture and transcending division of nationality, class, and gender.