• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.205-216
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• 2000

The purpose of study examined of historical changes of western men's nightclothes from middle ages to the modern ages and analyzed functions and features of men's nightclothes. This study presented meaning and importance of men's nightclothes. The method of study researched the many literatures and internet sources. Until medieval age, men slept naked or in a day-shirt. In the 16th century, a nightshirt was worn in bed. A night-cap was usual, in rather more elaborate form, also worn by day in the house, and even outdoors. In the 17th century, nightshirt was elabrated with ruffles and lace. The nightshirts of 18th century, resembled the day-shirt except that it was slightly longer and fuller in cut. The turn of 19th century, men weared nightshirt with a high folding collar, one button and night-cap of jellybag shape. In the early 19th century, nightshirt had a plain turned-down collar, buttoned at the neck. A night-cap with colored tassel was usual. The middle of 19th century, a nightgown was reaching to the ankle. Pyjamas, in the 1890s, were steadily replacing the nightshirt, before long pyjamas had become generally accepted in place of the nightshirt. A pyjamas which preseverved his male dignity by giving him trousers. Man's ingenuity also modified his nigntclothes so that these took on sexual characteristic. In 20th century, the fabrics had become lighter in weight, and the choice of materials wider. By 1930s, nightclothes had become the man's most colorful garment.

• CELLMED
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.2.1-2.10
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• 2024

Through big data analysis of the 'Joseonwangjosilok', this study examines the perception of ginseng among the ruling class and its utilization during the Joseon era. It aims to provide foundational data for the development of ginseng into a high-value cultural commodity. The focus of this research, the Joseonwangjosilok, comprises 1,968 volumes in 948 books, spanning a record of 518 years. Data was collected through web crawling on the website of the National Institute of Korean History, followed by frequency analysis of significant words. To assess the interest in ginseng across the reigns of 27 kings during the Joseon era, ginseng frequency records were adjusted based on years in power and the number of articles, creating an interest index for comparative rankings across reigns. Analysis revealed higher interest in ginseng during the reigns of King Jeongjo and King Yeongjo in the 18th century, King Sunjo in the 19th century, King Sejong in the 15th century, King Sukjong in the 17th century, and King Gojong in the 19th century. Examining the temporal emergence and changes in ginseng during the Joseon era, general ginseng types like insam and sansam had the highest frequency in the 15th century. It appears that Korea adeptly utilized ceremonial goods in diplomatic relations with China and Japan, meeting the demand for ginseng from their royal and aristocratic societies. Processed ginseng varieties such as hongsam and posam, along with traded and taxed ginseng, showed peak frequency in the 18th century. This coincided with increased cultivation, allowing a higher supply and fostering the development of ginseng processing technologies like hongsam.

• Communications for Statistical Applications and Methods
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.559-570
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• 2011

The role of jurisprudence is examined in the early history of probability and statistics. From the mid-17th to the early 18th century, Christiaan Huygens and Jacob Bernoulli used mathematical expectation to solve the problems that originated from games of chance. We demonstrate that their concept of expectation as a fair price for participating in a game came from the legal concept of 'fair trade'. In addition, we consider that the probability that Bernoulli defined in his Ars Conjectandi originated from the legal concept of 'degree of certainty'. After considering some contributions of Laplace and Poisson, we examined the history of census and statistical survey in the early 19th century. Contrary to the history of the 17th and 18th century, statistics influenced society and law in the 19th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.527-537
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• 1996

This study tries to understand the characteristics of a man's clothes from the late 17th century to the early 18th century, held by the Ewha Womans University Museum. The author adopted the Assy CAD, an apparel CAD system developed by Assysit Company of Germany, in measuring clothes which is intended to solve the problems raised in the previous measurement of clothes, as well as in the making of patterns. The author used tracing paper to make copies of the curved parts, put them into the computer by digitiger, and made the patterns for more accurate restoration. Furthermore, the author compared Lee Hwang's with the contents of the related literature and excavated apparel from other tombs. As a result, Chopri among Lee Hwang's clothes, retained the typical characteristics of the mid-Chosun men's fashion in its ratio of bodice to skirt, form of sleeves, and size of breast- ties for fastening which appeared in the 17th century. Daechangeui and Jungchimak also were distinctive for Changot and the width of sleeves since the 17th century and were in wide use not only as the daily clothes but also as the shroud. These changes were brought about from the two wars which emphasized prestige and beauty of the clothes rather than their functions. As a result, Changeuis were used more widely, while Chopri which was used as the underwear of officials' uniform, was in decline.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.8
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• pp.136-150
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• 2015

The purpose of this thesis is to elucidate the exchange between the East and the West during the 17th century through analyzing the oriental influences described in paintings in Delft school, a trade port of East India Company. The scope of this study focused on the 37 pieces of works by Johannes Vermeer and 31 pieces of the paintings by Pieter de Hooch, which are all the existing work, as analysis targets. The resources of this study were from previous papers about the history of costumes, paintings and culture, Internet sources and other qualitatively analyzed articles. The items that the study looked into were Delft porcelains and Delft tiles, Turkey carpets, costumes and accessories pearl earrings and headdresses. The study looked into oriental factors observed in each of these items, and analyzed them. In terms of oriental factors that are frequently observed in paintings, porcelains (100%), Deft tiles (100%), pearl earrings (100%) and (most) carpets (92.3%) turned out to have oriental nature, but this was not the case with head dresses (7.7%) and clothing (0.3%). These results happen to coincide with the previous investigation in that the oriental factor was reflected in the culture first, while the effects on costumes significantly lagged behind. This progress in cultural exchange can be seen through the noted use of Chinoiserie, a technique that is representative of the Chinese culture, in the 18th century. Through Japonism, the influence of Japanese culture into Europe was introduced, in detail, in 19th century. These results suggest that there are sufficient amount of sources that could be used to study the effect of orientalism to the Western culture. This study intends to look at how the oriental culture affected those of Europe by researching the Delft school of Netherlands during the 17th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.157-172
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• 2016

This study aims to present findings of historical design trends of men's fashion, and the characteristics of changes in the types of overcoats and mid jackets shown in French pattern books of the 19th century. The primary data sources for this study comprised one pattern book, each of the17th and 18th century, and 15 pattern books of the 19th century, all of which are conserved by the French National Library. The study methods are as follows: First, analysis of men's fashion trends and the characteristics of changes by type as shown in French pattern books of the 17th to 19th centuries. Second, analysis of the evolution of type of men's overcoats and top-exterior- and-interior (outside) styles shown in French pattern books of the 19th century. As a result, a total of 69 type references were collected from French pattern books of the 17th to 19th centuries. Historically, men's fashion was largely classified into top-exterior, top-exterior-and-interior, top-interior, bottoms and accessories. The two major classifications were as follows: top-exteriors overcoats and robes, And top-exterior-and-interior as top-exterior-and-interior(outside) and top-exterior-and-interior (inside). The study also identified the forms and changes by type. Additionally, this study selected overcoats and top-exterior-and-interior(outside) which fall under typical categories to show the change in the forms of men's fashion of the 19th century. These changes in the types were designated as: continued, faded away, newly appeared and transformed. This study analyzed the time of appearance of the forms by the year of publishing in conjunction with cultural references from previous domestic and international studies. The results showed that the time of changes in the types shown in pattern books did not deviate from the mainstream, which verified their typicality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.9
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• pp.901-915
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• 2012

This study comparatively analyzes the characteristics, changes, and differences in class-based costume typology according to a concept of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people in France. The methods and contents are as follow. First, the scope of common people is grasped according to the historical background and a concept of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people in France. Second, through considering a prior research on analyzing the data of ancient documents on the economy of clothing, it classifies common people into bourgeoisie, urban common people, rural common people, and the destitute. It then examines diachronic evolution, and class-based synchronic difference in the consumption of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people's costumes in France. Third, it analyzes the appearance frequency by period according to type of common people's costumes, which were shown in pictorial materials with 283 sheets of engravings and 54 pieces of paintings; in addition, it reconstructs the succession and expansion in typology. It grasps differences and changes in morphology by class, space, and period of typology for common people's costumes. Common people's consumption of costumes was understood to have grown in qualitative aspects as well as a rise in the whole clothing demand. A class-based structure formed and indicated that a fashion cycle existed. As a result of analyzing common people's clothes (shown in pictorial materials of the $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century) 41 items were grasped by gender and according to costume kind. Typology in common people's costumes (classified into bourgeoisie, urban common people, rural common people, and the destitute) showed a change by period. A change in typical costume typology was accepted more by the bourgeoisie than by urban and rural common people, and was accepted more by rural communities than by urban populations. Thus, a difference was formed through an expansion with a temporal difference that depended on class and space.

• IMMUNE NETWORK
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.109-114
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• 2010

The molecular mechanisms involved in the pathogenesis of chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD) are poorly defined. Accumulating evidences indicate that chronic inflammatory responses and adaptive immunity play important roles in the development and progression of the disease. Recently, it has been shown that IL-17 producing CD4 T cells, named Th17 cells, which have been implicated in the pathogenesis of several inflammatory and autoimmune diseases, are involved in airway inflammation and COPD. In addition, we and others suggest that autoimmunity may play a critical role in the pathogenesis of COPD. Here, we will review the current understanding of roles of Th17 cells and autoimmune responses in COPD.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.347-357
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• 2002

In 1536, two Piedmontese merchants set up workshops in Lyons, and Henri IV encourged further development later in the 16th century. The development of Lyons as a centre of the silk weaving industry was helped by the perfection of drawloom weaving technique there in 1605 by Claude Dangon. In the 17th century, the French silk industry could finally compete with the dominance of the Italian silk trade. The French silk industry was promoted in the mid-17th century under Louis XIV's minister Colbert. In 1667, he published an ordinance creating La Grande Fabrique, a corporation for craftsmen within the silk industry, and Lyons became the undisputed French silk capital. Under Louis X IV, France was becoming the dominant force in Europe in matters of fashion and style. The major innovation of weaving was the Jacquard head attachment, which provided a mechanical means of raising warp threads by a series of punched cards. The are nouveau style did not have much impact on French silk design at the end of the century. Silk manufacturers began to collaborate with haute-couture designers such as the House of Worth. This collaboration with the burgeoning Paris haute-couture industry continued into the 20th century and safeguarded the future production of silk textiles in France.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.208-241
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• 2010

This study was conducted to examine the chronology of Taesil Seokham(Taesil Stone Boxes) stored in Taesil of the Joseon Palace and classify the styles to discuss how these boxes have developed. By doing so, this study defined the archaeological styles of taesil seokhams in the chronological order. Although taesil seokhams are placed when taesil are first created, they do not have any texts engraved on them and it is difficult to gain information only from examining taesil seokham. However, Taejiseok(memorial stones buried in Taesil) and Agibi(gravestones buried in Taesil) were created along with taesil. These resources were examined and compared with literature records to find when each taesil seokhams was created. The critical elements to consider for the chronological arrangement were both the cover and container of the boxes and the transition of their style could be classified into four major stages. In detail, the Joseon Dynasty's taesil seokhams initially inherited the style of the Goryeo Dynasty to be formed into rectangular boxes. Through the transition of the mid and late 15th Century, the semi-circular cover with cylindrical container became the popular style in the late 15th Century. In the late 16th Century, the style of the previous period was further developed to add some decorative elements, such as projecting ornaments, but the ornaments were added for functional purposes rather than artistic purposes. However, the style went back to the semi-circular cover with cylindrical container in the early 17th Century. From the mid 17th Century, various styles appeared with ornaments only on the cover, cone-shaped cover with no ornament, or mortar-like container. However, a new style of cone-shaped cover with ornament emerged between the early and mid 18th Century and continued to stay until the mid 18th Century. In the mid 18th Century, the cover remained unchanged, but the container became a keyhole-shaped space with one side forming a "ㄷ" shape. However, in the late 18th Century, the most typical style of the semi-circular cover with cylindrical container reappeared to show that this is the most universal style. Last, in the mid 19th Century, the cover changed from semi-circular to rectangular with flat top. After this, the taesil seokhams began to disappear. In terms of style, it can be classified into four stages. In the early Joseon Dynasty, the taesil seokhams were underdeveloped and inherited the style of the Goryeo Dynasty (Stage I; 1401~mid-15C), but Joseon's unique style began to develop from the late 15th Century (Stage II; 1477~1641). After that, partial ornaments were added for adornment (Stage III; 1660~1754), but the typical style reappeared in the late 18th Century to finally degrade in the late Joseon Dynasty of the mid 19th Century (Stage IV; 1790~1874). This arrangement of style and chronology would greatly help archaeologists anticipate the time and owner of taesil seokhams even if only taesil seokhams are discovered without any records. * Tae(胎) : Placenta and umbilical cord * Taesil(胎室) : A facility(chamber) of burying Tae(胎) in rite when royal descendants are born.