• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.8
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• pp.76-89
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• 2013

This study is about 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' Jeoksam and Hansam in the early days of Joseon Dynasty. A study was done regarding the records of Jeoksam and Hansam in literature, the present state of the excavated 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing Jeoksam and Hansam, and finally a deduction of the reason for the appearance of the 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing Jeoksam and Hansam. The width of front length of 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing in the early days of Joseon Dynasty is 29.5~35 cm and the width of one breath of the sleeve is 29.5~35 cm. The width of 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' is 9.5~16 cm and it is relatively big. Comparing to the width of one breath of the sleeve, it is almost 1:2.2~3.6 ratio. Therefore, when the sleeve was cut, the Mu was linked in order to save fabric the gusset of sleeve had to be folded and turned, and finally it became asymmetric. As a result of the above consideration, since the width of upper garments of $16{\sim}17^{th}$ century was big, the wearing of short tops of Jeoksam or Hansam without side vent as a small 'triangle-Mu' was uncomfortable. Because of this reason, the size had no option but to become bigger. So, during the $16^{th}$ and $17^{th}$ century, a period where mass production of fabric was difficult, the 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' type was considered to be a reasonable cutting method. After the middle of $17^{th}$ century, it can be estimated that 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing disappeared according to the narrow aspect of clothing type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.311-319
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• 1995

The history of vegetable preservation technology by salting and fermentation in Korea was reviewed from the Three Nations Era to the end of Chosun Kingdom, and the development of present day's Kimchi processing technology was traced back by using the classic books as well as recent review papers published in Korea. Although the written record on salting and fermentation of vegetables first appears in a 12th century literature (Dongkukisangkukjib, Gyu-Bo Lee $1168{\sim}1241$), the use of salted/fermented vegetables could be dated back to the Three Nations Era $(B.C.\;37{\sim}A.D.\;668)$ and even earlier period. The present type of Kimchi was gradually evolved after the introduction of red pepper into Korea in the 17th century. The descriptions on Kimchi fermention appeared in the literatures written in the period of $16th{\sim}19th$ centuries in Korea, Suunjapbang $(1500{\sim})$, Domundaijak (1611), Sasichanyocho (1656), Eumsikdimibang (1670), Chubangmun $(1600{\sim})$, Saekgyung (1676), Yorok $(1600{\sim})$, Sanlimkyungje (1715), Cheungbosanlimkyungje (1766), Kyuhapchongsoe $(1800{\sim})$, Imwonsipyukji (1827), Dongkuksesiki (1849) and Buinpylji $(1855{\sim})$ were reviewed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.56-69
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• 2013

This study studies the fabrics from excavated 17th century tombs of Mrs. Min from Yeoheung family(1586~1656), Yeo-on Kim(1596~1665) and Won-rip Choi(1618~1690) and attempts to clarify the relationship between the fashion trend in fabrics of those times and the background behind it by viewing and examining the proportion of twill fabrics to the total silk fabrics and the characteristics of its weave and patterns. Looking into fabrics from the above tombs, twill fabrics accounted for 10.4%(13 pieces) 19.3%(16 pieces) and 9.2%(9 pieces) of total silk fabrics in each of the respective tombs. This forms a remarkable contrast with the fact that there was only one piece of twill silk fabrics(0.5%) and not any from the 16th century tombs of Mrs. Yoon from Papyeong family (0.5%) and Soo-ryoon Sim(0%). In particular, the percentage of hwamun-neung(patterned twill fabrics) in each of the tombs is 8.0%(10 pieces), 13.3%(11 pieces), 9.2%(9 pieces), which is much higher than that of non-patterned one. This is common to the twill fabrics from above three 17th century tombs. Patterns of hwamun-neung(patterned twill), simplified small flower patterns or geometrical figures, from the three excavated tombs are mostly arranged sporadically with blank space. It is supposed that these figurative characteristics reflected the aesthetic sense of the gentry at that time which valued simplicity and moderation for their Confucian standard. This phenomenon of increased use and production of twill fabrics in the 17th century resulted from different factors such as wars like Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592~1598), economic difficulty, government regulations against the production of high-class fabrics, development of weaving skill and its fixation, changes of fabric production environments, and changes of aesthetic sense preferring naive and moderate things to showy ones. As for the weaving characteristics of twill fabrics from the three 17th century tombs 3 leaf warp-faced twill was often used for the ground texture and 4 leaf warp-faced one was occasionally used. For pattern texture 6 leaf weft-faced twill was frequently used, 4 leaf weft-faced twill and 3 leaf weft-faced twill were used at times, and floating one was occasionally used as well.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.4
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• pp.26-40
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• 2009

The custom of the flag sticked in a military cap involves the symbolic mark. That is, it makes the procession of an army clear and makes the convenience of activity possible. This custom was uniquely practiced at several countries. At Il dynasty($1258{\sim}1411$), Timurid dynasty($1369{\sim}1508$), Mughal dynasty($1526{\sim}1858$) was succeeded this custom by based on blood relationship for $13th{\sim}16th$ century on the diachronic viewpoint. And these countries have cultural correlation by regional paradigm, namely Islamic cultural area. Meanwhile, this custom of Ming dynasty and joseon dynasty appeared in $15th{\sim}17th$ century as official system. Expecially, one of joseon dynasty maintained for a short time than other countries because of jangpyo[章標] system which was more efficient than the sticked flag. On the synchronic viewpoint, this custom was the common and necessary status quo for the efficient expansion of territory and military management.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.273-292
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• 2008

Among all the ingredients usedin mandu, the following types were used:, 13 types of grains were used (12.38%), 30 types of vegetables, fruits, bulbs,and nuts were used (28.57%), 32 types of marine products, birds, meats, fishes, and shellfishes were used (30.48%), 10 types of functional ingredients were used (9.52%) and. For spices, 20 types of spices were used (19.05%). 2. Cooking Methods offor Mandu. The mMandu eaten at in the early Joseon era had was primarily made ofusedbuckwheat that contained boiled tofu or egg uiijuk in the kneaded dough for the most part and while kneading with buckwheat, the tofu or egg uiijuk has been boiled down to knead the dough, and and starch powder, bean powder, or rice powder, etc were mixed to make the mandu coating. Buckwheat powder was mixed toadded to the flourwer or was used by itself, while meat, vegetables, tofu, and shiitake mushroom, etc were also addedincluded. From the 18th century, the host plant, or cabbage kimchi, were prepared and combined had been sliced to be used as filling together while red pepper powder was mixed combined withto spices or vinegar soy sauce to be used together. Also, Radishes had beenwere also used as filling, but shown as not being used fromafter the start of the 1900's. For the shape of mMandu, it was madeinto different shapes such as as triangle, rectangle, date plum, gwebul, half moon, or pomegranate shapes, and then shapes to be boiled in simmering water, baked, or cooked as soup in clear broth for soup., In the 17th to 18th century, boilingthen in a steamer gradually became a cooking style, assumed the style of boiling in a steamer in $17th{\sim}18th$ century while in the 16th century,the an essay ofn fermenting flour in ‘Food Dimibang’ in 16th century had indicated it was cooked as the style ofby steaming in a rice steamer. Also, Mandu may have also contained the following: the thin-cut and boiled fish was cut out thin to put into the filling and boiled down, made by putting in added pine nuts after making bbeef jerky or boiled- down meat, fish, or shellfish itself to extractsand mold mandu only the ingredients combined withto put on starch powder, and then boiled down and put on pine nut powder finally, after it or cooled it wasdown to be eaten by dipping in vinegar soy sauce. In conclusion, many different types of mandu were made during the Joseon era using a variety ofwhile the ones using such various ingredients. are also one type of mandu.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.1
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• pp.45-63
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• 2014

In the Taenghwa(Buddhist paintings), the clothing habits of the times can be observed since it depicts the lives of people from all walks of life. These 16th century Taenghwas were drawn based on the understanding of the ritual costumes of early Joseon dynasty appearing in works such as oryeui Se-jong-sil-lok; Sejong chronicles and Gyong-guk-Dae-jon. It shows the perception of various types of clothing such as the Myeon-Bok(King's Full Dress), Won-yu-gwan-bok(King's Ceremonial Dress), and Gon-ryong-po(royal robe at work), and describes the early King's Won-yu-gwan-bok in the early Joseon dynasty that equips Bang-sim-gok-ryong(Round Neck Band). Various officials' uniforms and various men's coats are described. From it, one can visually verify the records of Joong-jong-sil-lok; Joongjong chronicles that describes the appearances of various hats and coats. They also tell us that Chang-ot(light outer coat) was worn prior to the 17th century. It also shows us that the ritual costume of women in Koryo was passed down to early Joseon. Also, in regards to the Buddhist priest costumes, the jang-sam's gray color and ga-sa's red color has been passed down until today. The most representative characteristic for clothing materials were horsehair, silk, ramie, hemp, and cotton.

• Journal of the East Asian Society of Dietary Life
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.711-724
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• 2008

Guk has been a very important part of the Korean table service for a long time. To study the historical transition of traditional Guk, an analysis of old cookbooks from the Chosun dynasty ($15{\sim}19C$) was conducted based on cooking science. The following is the results of 52 types of Malgunguk from representative old cookbooks such as Sangayorok (1450), Suunjabbang (early 1500s), Eumshikdimibang (1670), Jeungbosallimgyungje (1766), Gyuhabchongsu (1815), Juchan (mid 1800s), Sieuijunsu(late 1800s). The ingredients for Malgunguk contain 30, 35, and 12 types of animal foods, plant foods, and seasonings, respectively. Fish and two to three meats are combined for the main ingredients of Guk, to harmonize the taste. Notably, deer and birds such as pheasants along with parts of beef (short ribs, marrow, Holdaegi) were used. Moreover, it is interesting to note that meat such as pork and chicken were favored to beef, which is contrary to preferences of today. There are only a few Malgunguks that have been passed down before the 16th century those after the 17th century have mostly been reported, but the ingredients have been simplified.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.67-86
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• 2007

Choseon Dynasty, from many aspects, saw the institutional establishment of its royal palaces in the 17th and 18th century, with 'donggwol (east palace)' as the most representative form in the era. In that period, palaces were managed in the best way that fits the royal etiquette and order to maintain the Confucian framework of the times. While the royal palace was the place for the king to conduct state affairs, it was also a compound for the royal family to lead a life in. Since the royal family was also based on the Confucian system, women in the royal palace seldom revealed their existence to outside world. Yet daebi,(a Queen Mother) who was often called 'dongjo,' enjoyed the highest level of honor not only as a member of the royal family but in the hierarchical order of the dynasty. As they often engaged themselves in political affairs, daebi raised their reputation through rites and rituals. So, in the 16th century, they largely used Changgyeong-gung palace in the eastern part of the royal compound since they sometimes had to go out of the royal residence. While it was called 'dongjo' because it was seated in the eastern part, it was also used as a word symbolizing daebi. And, therefore, it has become a general principle of royal palaces to build the palace for daebi in the eastern wing of the compound. However, the residence for daebi was not always built in the eastern part in the 17th and 18th century and, instead, edifices for daebi were sometimes erected in several points within the royal compound. Beside, daebi's residence in this period had additional spaces for ceremonies since they had a number of official events there. Construction of daebi's residences in this era was not confined to the symbolic institutions and they became the peculiar palaces with specific characteristics for official ceremonies of the queen mothers. Consequently, it could be said that the architectural style of dongjo, which was the place of the supreme female in the hierarchical order, stemmed from donggwol where daebi spent the longest time of the royal life.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.105-115
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• 2008

Men's outer wear, such as jackets and coats appeared since the 16th century. They have been changed from doublets, coats, justaucorps, tail-coats, frock coats and morning coats to contemporary men's suits. Since the early 17th century, sleeve patterns of men's outer jackets had been mostly two-pieces close fitted patterns. The purpose of this article is to compare sleeve patterns of various jackets, which appear in various historic costume books. Armhole measurements, sleeve head measurements, amounts of ease, armhole depths, armhole widths, crown heights, sleeve width and sleeve angle had been compared to find out the differences among patterns of different times and styles. Coming to the present, the difference between top sleeve and under sleeve became more obvious, and the sleeve angle became less curvy. Another interesting point is that there had been considerable amounts of ease, which is the difference between sleeve head measurements and corresponding armhole measurements. It is because the sleeve has been attached to the armhole not by seam but by string. It is believed that the present sleeves have more natural curve and shape compared to the past.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.31-48
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• 2007

The purpose of the this study is to make a historical review of changes in the structural decorations of men's costume from ancient times to modern times and to provide basic materials for developing handicraft decoration techniques and sewing methods in contemporary fashion. Their gorgeousness of collars and sleeves reached its peak along with the exaggerated expression of the human body during the Renaissance when people were free from Christian traditions of the Middle Ages and pursued human pleasures. Huge and decorative collars gave great dignity and formality to the wearer. Sleeves were slim and cuffs were small or nonexistent after the French Revolution. Various decorated pockets had been developed since pockets began to be attached to coats in the 17th century. Pockets were at the bottom of coat in the late 17th century, but they were gradually placed much higher on the coat. Buttons began to be used as the tool for sticking fast body to clothes in the 12th century and became extremely sumptuous accessories in the $16th{\sim}18th$ centuries. Men's clothes were simpler and more practical after the French Revolution. The result was that decorative buttons begun to disappear and metal buttons came out for practical purpose. The number of buttons worn on sleeves was also noticeably reduced. This research suggested the possibility that various decoration techniques could create the unique details in the each part of clothes. In order to develop high value-added products, we need to study various decoration-sewing methods and put to practical use them for creative fashion design.