• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
• /
• 2000.05a
• /
• pp.30-30
• /
• 2000

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.28
• /
• pp.47-64
• /
• 1996

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\ulcorner Makuranosorsi(枕草子) \lrcorner$ This book was written by a Japanese servant in the Royal Court about the year 10000. In this book many kinds of clothing ornament color and materials were mentioned. The discoveries of this paper were as follows. 1. There were 85 different kinds of name In detail there were 46 Clothing and Accessories 32 Clors 11 Materials Patterns the method of Dyeing. 2. All the Clothing and Textiles in Makur-anosorsi were reflections of the reality of that times. 3. From ancient times japanse Costume was much influenced by Korea. but around the 7th century the influence increased. 4. Almost all clothing and Accessories used in Japan in the 10th century had been pre-viosly used in neighboring countries Korea and China But after they were imported to japan some of them were changed to japans hybrids especially in name and shape. 5. In Japan Clothing Colors were used in various ways sometimes colors coordinated by over lapping dress and othertimes the colors were weaved together Namely the width and length of these colorful fibres are also signifi-cant meaning. This meas that the Japanese was much more interested in color than other countries and this also proves Clothing Colors were very developed in japan by the 10th cen-tury. 6. The Materials discovered in this book were almost all silk This is the reason why $\ulcorner Makuranosorsi \lrcorner$ was the expression of the Royal Court.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
• /
• 2004.05a
• /
• pp.27-27
• /
• 2004

복식명칭은 복식을 이해하는 중요한 단서로써, 이에 대한 고찰은 많은 문헌 자료를 통해 이루어져 왔다. 본 연구는 $\ulcorner$한자학습서에 기록된 복식용어의 시대적 의미변화에 관한 연구$\lrcorner$에 이은 후속연구로서, 조선시대에 편찬된 유해류 역학서인 <역어유해>.<동문유해>.<몽어유해>.<위어유해>.<방언유해>에 기록된 복식 관련 자료를 중심으로 고찰하고자 한다. (중략)

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
• /
• 2004.10a
• /
• pp.80-81
• /
• 2004

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
• /
• 2004.10a
• /
• pp.100-101
• /
• 2004

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.43
• /
• pp.97-108
• /
• 1999

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\boxDr$Eigamonokatary$\boxUl$ focus on Color and Dying. $\boxDr$Eigamonokatary$\boxUl$is a novel described the life style of Royal Court from 883 till 1107. The discoveries of this paper were as follows. 1. The materials of colors and dyeing which are described in this book reflect the features of the age well. We can assume that the point of its chic might rest on colors and dyeing than design or pattern. 2. Sine they enjoyed wearing lots of clothes which are in the same design but in different colors with the underwear. When color coordinate was fashioned we call them "Kasanenoirome". This type of dressing was in vogue in the age of Heian when there were several devices of showing chic in dressing. 3. The color of clothes at that time might represent one's official position the black the highest class following the purple the red and the blue or green. The black color was made from the purple or blue. The Japanese Emperor would wear reddish yellow or blue clothes according to the nature of his office work. 4. Some of Japanese fashion might be influenced by Korean styles in the respects of coordinating colors and adjusting Buddhist fashion etc. It is required that the turther studies of comparing Korean fashion styles with Japanese ones should be deepened. deepened.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.18
• /
• pp.351-359
• /
• 1992

The purpose of this study is to analyze the costume in $\ulcorner$The Goddess Abides$\lrcorner$ of Pearl S. Buck by applying "Dramaturgical Analysis" of Erving Goffman. The frame of analysis is the dramaturgical conception of Goffman that he expressed in $\ulcorner$The Presentation of self in Everyday Life (1959)$\lrcorner$. Among the conception, I analyzed by applying 'performance', 'technique of impression management', 'region and region behavior' which can be used for studying and costume behavior. The following is the summary of my study. First, the performance means the performer's behavior and the procedure of impression management if face to fact interaction, which includes personal front and setting. Setting is mainly a house on the Mt. in Vermont. The time is Winter. The personal front includes appearance and manner. actors and audiences form impression through persional front. And Istudied the performance of the actors (or actress), Edith, Jared, Edmond, Edwin, Amelia, June. As for technique of impression management, I cold observe that a varieth of that were being used, such as the most general one that Edith wants to look beautiful by making god appearance, or she sometimes try not to look beautiful And when Edith meets Jared, sometimes she changed her clothes, but other times she doesn't do that. As for region and region behavior, there appears the distinction of region and a lot of expressions about clothes related to the distinction. I could observe the expressions showing the movement from front to back and from back to front. Especially I could observe the behaviors that can be occured only in back region in everyday life, that is bathing, changing clothes, making up, checking their appearance before the mirror. Like above when I analyzed $\ulcorner$The Goddess Abides$\lrcorner$ of Pearl S. Buck by Goffman's Dramaturgical analysis, I could find out that the theory was very useful to the analysis of the costume behaviors of the characters.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.28
• /
• pp.169-186
• /
• 1996

Wangeja Chulgungdo (The Painting for a Crown Prince's Outgoing for Schooling to Sungkyunkwan) for this study which is held by the Korean university Museum is a kind of documentary paintings which not only have the value of art history but also give a glimpse of the court ceremonies for a Crown Prince. This painting offers various historical clues to understand the procedure for a Crown Prince's official entrance of Sungkyunkwan participants of the ceremony and other ceremony-related items$\ulcorner$Wangseja chulgungdo$\lrcorner$ was the painting drawn for a series of court procedures of Crown Prince Munjo's official en-trance of Sungkynkwan. When he was old enough to begin learning Sohak on March 11. 1817 that is ; he held Heonjakrye(a ceremony for offering drinks to the ancestors) at Munmyo passed Iphakye(a ceremony for en-trance of school) at Myungryundang and received Suharye the next day. $\ulcorner$Wangseja Chulgungdo$\lrcorner$ had the strong char-acteristics of documentary paintings in terms of art history which was intended to leave the historical event of a Crown Prince's entrance. It reflected the traits of documentary painting style in late Chosun Dynasty; a technique that strongly relieved the ceremonial scenes against the background such as mountains and rivers; a painting that not only captured the vivid actions of personalities ar the crucial moment of the ceremony but also depicted the cer-emonial vessels and items very realistically. Authors could confirm the ceremonial think-ing of the traditional society through a Crown Prince's entrance which controlled the details of every part of the performances of the court ceremony.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
• /
• 2003.05a
• /
• pp.23-23
• /
• 2003

본 연구는 14세기에 처음 간행된 것으로 추정되어 18세기까지 지속적으로 발간된 『노걸대』의 여러 편찬본에서 나타나는 복식 관련 용어들을 정리 ·비교하고, 중국대륙과 우리 나라에서 보여지는 복식 문화의 일면을 이해하는 데에 그 목적을 둔 것이다. 본 연구에서는 현존하고 있는 『노걸대』 9종류 중 6종류(원간)『노걸대』, (책개)『노걸대』, (번역)『노걸대』 상·하, 『노걸대언해』 상·하, 『노걸대(신역)』, 『중간노걸대언해』 상·하를 대상으로 하여 복식과 관련된 용어를 뽑아 복식명칭의 흐름에 대해 살펴보았다. 한어문의 변화 양상에 따라 (원간) 『노걸대』, (산개)『노걸대』-『노걸대언해』, 『노걸대 신석』-『중간노걸대언해』로 분류하고 표를 구성하여 간본간의 명칭비교를 용이하게 하고자 하였다. 『노걸대』에는 관포, 의, 대, 신발 등의 복식류의 명칭이 기록되어 있다. 또한 계절에 따른 복식의 형태도 나타나고 있어서 이에 따른 복식의 변화도 볼 수 있다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.21 no.1
• /
• pp.155-169
• /
• 1997

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\ulcorner$Genjimonokatary (원씨물어)$\lrcorner$. This book is a novel written by a Japanese sextant worked in the Royal Court around the year 1010. In this book, about 110 different kinds of Garments, Ornaments, Colors and Materials were mentioned. The results of this paper were as follows. 1. About the Garments 8f Ornaments ; All the Clothing and Textiles in $\ulcorner$Genjimonkatary$\lrcorner$ were reflections of the reality of that time. In the Clothing, Color, Textile and even Hair style, the Symbol of Buddism appeared. Many technical methods were developed in the garment shaping, dyeng and wearing methods. 2. About the Colors Sf Dyes; There were many kinds of Color SE Dyes described in $\ulcorner$Genjimonokatary$\lrcorner$. This means color was developed more than other elements in that period. Among them, gray and black colors were mentioned, this means Buddist Color was fashioned in that period. $\ulcorner$Kasaneno-irome (강색목)$\lrcorner$ was changed from Ungan (운간) that had been origined of China and Korea. But it became one of the Japanese Costume. That have some reasons, for instance, high materials could not be imported from other countris and many people were controlled by the Taboo of clothing (금제) so they wanted the better method, such as Kasaneno-irome. Many kinds of colors'name was origined from flowers and plants. It also represented the seasons. Yurusi-iro (청색) was meaning the permitable color to the popular people. Without the head word, Deep Color' and 'Pale Color' meant those things of the purple and red. 3. About the Materials IE Patterns : The materials imported from other country, China and Korea, were good in quality, but those produced in Japan were not good. There were many kinds of dyeing method, especially Srijome (신염) was very special and nice method in that period.