The purpose of this study was to determine the effect of IPBC(3-lodo-2-propynylbutyl carbamate) on dandruff caused by the anthropophilic fungus Maiassezia furfur. The effects of IPBC on dandruff were examined by evaluating (a) the MIC value of IPBC using broth dilution method : (b) the remnant antimicrobial activity of IPBC containing shampoo on skin disc ; (c) the antidandruff efficacy of 1.0 % IPBC containing shampoo in double blind clinical trial. To investigate the remnant antimicrobial activity of IPBC against Maiassezia furfur, guinea pig-skin disc was washed with antidandruff shampoo and then the diameter of inhibition zone per disc was measured. For clinical trial, thirty healthy volunteers, aged 25-35, participated in 4 week study. At 0,2,4 weeks, examinations of scaling, itching on scalp were carried out. The MIC(Minimun Inhibition Concentration) values of IPBC range from 0.10 to 1.00$\mu$ g/ml and it seems that IPBC is more effective in the MIC values than zinc pyrithione, selenium disulphide, piroctone olamine and comparable to ketoconazole, climbazole. When the rimnant antimicrobial activity of IPBC shampoo on skin disc was determined, 0.5% IPBC shampoo and 2.0% Ketoconazole shampoo resulted in similar antimicrobial effect. In addition, 1.0%,2.0% IPBC shampoo was more effective than 2.0% ketoconazole shampoo. After two and four-weeks of 1.0% IPBC shampoo treatment, there was significant reduction of scaling, itching in test group compared to control group. On the basis of these results, it can be concluded that 1.0% IPBC is more effective than 2.0% Ketoconazole in reducing dandruff. It seems that strong capacity of drug binding to the stratum corneum plays a role in its antidandruff effect since adsorption of active ingredients on scalp is very important factor in reducing dandruff.

Silver-containing antimicrobial inorganic pigments that have been developed so far still have problems, which result from silver’s unique metallic color and discoloration. Therefore, those things are used only far make-up cosmetics or just the restricted amount is used. Although the use of white-base pigments or iron oxides has been considered to solve those problems, they virtually fail to serve as a perfect substitute. So it seems difficult to use enough quantity of those materials or to apply them to diverse kinds of products. The purpose of this study was, accordingly, to attain the complete removal of metallic color and the maintenance of color. Additionally, a rosemary extract was employed to develop a silver-containing inorganic antimicrobial pigment(Ag-AIP-R) that has an improved antimicrobial effect and antioxidative effect.

Manuka oil sometime named New Zealand's tea tree oil is soluble in oil and come from nature. The $\alpha$-pinene extracted from Manuka oil and R-limonene which is one of the component of extracted Citrex from Grapefruit were used to estimate the antimicrobial activity and to improve the capability of antiseptic. Disk diffusion and broth dilution methods were used to measure the antimicrobial activity Escherichia coli which is gram-negative bacteria and Staphylococcus aureus which is gram-positive bacteria were used as strain. The antimicrobial activity of Manuka oil and $\alpha$-pinene for Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus is similar when the concentration of Manuka oil and $\alpha$-pinene is 10${mu}ell$. However, Antimicrobial activity of Manuka oil for EscherEchta coli, Staphylococcus aureus is better than that of $\alpha$-pinene when the concentration of Manuka oil and $\alpha$-pinene is low. Antimicrobial activity of Citrex is superior to that of R-limonene. The proper ratio of Maunka oil and Citrex can Improve the antimicrobial activity. The proper ratio obtained from studies was 75% of Maunka oil and 25% Citrex for Escherichia coli, 25% of Maunka oil and 75% Citrex for Staphylococcus aureus.

The planarized SiO$_2$ particles were prepared by two-step reduction method of making much smaller particles, micron-sized ones, to improve spreadability, adherence, and smoothness. Various pigments known as flaky extender usually have terrace layers on their surfaces, but SiO$_2$ particles in this study exhibit a smooth surface structure. These single SiO$_2$ particles were used as core particles to prepare the composite particles coated with ultra fine TiO$_2$ particles by a homogeneous precipitation method. The thickness and the morphology of the deposited TiO$_2$ layers could be modified by adjusting the reactant concentrations, the reaction time and the temperature. The characteristics of SiO$_2$/TiO$_2$ composite in the field of color cosmetics are to give an UV-cut effect and to enhance the chroma of human skin color, one of optical properties.

Cosmetic mask is one of the traditional cosmetic product and is used to keep skin healthy and beautiful through moisturizing effect, cleansing effect and acceleration effect on microcirculation. There are several types of cosmetic mask such as peel-off type, tissue-off type, wash-off type and cotton sheet type immersed in cosmetic water. It is important for cosmetic formulators to develop an adequate type of cosmetic mask that meets the needs of the target consumers because each type of cosmetic mask has benefits and problems in its usage and efficacy. Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) is widely used as an active ingredient of peel-off type cosmetic mask and the physical property of the PVA film changes with the usage of other ingredients. We studied the change of physical properties of the film containing PVA by formulating peel-off type cosmetic mask with the variation of humectants. Methylguceth-20 and glycereth-26 reduce the interaction between skin surface and PVA film without serious weakening of tensile strength and they can alleviate irritation. Glycerin, urea and betaine help PVA film soften and they also have excellent efficacy as humectants.

Pericarpium castaneae extracts have variously potent activities, such as anti-oxidative activity and free radical scavenging activity. in vivo and in vivo studies both indicate that pericarpium castaneae extracts acts as a flee radical scavenger ($IC_{50}$/: 7.6$\mu\textrm{g}$/ml) stronger than gallic acid($IC_{50}$/: 12.5$\mu\textrm{g}$/ml) and ellagic acid($IC_{50}$/: 15$\mu\textrm{g}$/ml) which could prevent cutaneous UV damages and skin aging. The extracts showed a good effect as a anti-oxidant ($IC_{50}$/: 50$\mu\textrm{g}$/ml). It was shown that the appearance of wrinkle in human skin was reduced by topical application of pericarpium castaneae extracts. And the treatment of human skin with the extracts increased the elasticity and moisture of the skin. We investigated the effect of tile pericarpium castaneae extracts on production of extracellular matrix using cultured A431 fibroblast cells. The results indicated that the extracts had no detectable effect on collagen synthesis, But synthesis of cell adhesion protein was increased by the extracts. The results suggest that increase of cell adhesion protein synthesis by pericarpium castaneae extracts has closely related to reduction of wrinkle in skin.

We have studied the stability of W/O high internal phase emulsions(HIPE) containing water, cetyl dimethicone copolyol and oils varying magnesium sulfate in the range 0 to 0.5wt% and oil polarities, respectively. The rheological consistency was mainly destroyed by the coalescence of the deformed water droplets. The greater the increase of concentrated modulus was, the less coalescence occurred and the more consistent the concentrated emulsions were. The increasing pattern of complex modulus versus volume fraction has been explained with the resistance to coalescence of the deformed interfacial film of water droplets in concentrated W/O emulsion. The stability is dependent on: (i) the choice of the oil is important, the requirements coincide with the requirements for the formation of the rigid liquid crystalline phases :5; and (ii) addition of salts the aqueous phase opposes the instability due to coalescence:. Increasing the salt concentration increases the refractive index of the aqueous phase. It lowers the difference in the refractive index between the oil and aqueous phases. This decreases the attraction between the water domains, thus increasing the stability.

A colloid refers to dispersed particles of a solid or liquid having the diameter of about $10^{-5}$ - $10^{-7}$. Such colloidal silver is produced by electrolysis. In this paper. colloidal silvers of various concentrations according to charge amount and time are produced, and their anti-microbial activities are measured. And optimum conditions for emulsion are measured by varying the concentration of colloidal silvers. Further, stability of the emulsion is measured with a Zeta potential. chrome meter by applying colloidal silvers to creams (W/Si. O/W, MLV).

The new stick make-up product was studied by using a gel, which is a viscous complex formed with clay minerals, vitamins A and I and fluorinated liquid polymer with a 1500 molecular weight. The gel cannot be obtained with any random combination of clay minerals and the ingredients described above. It takes the sequential manufacturing method as follows to get this kind of gel. Firstly, clay minerals and liquid polymers have ·to be pre-mixed in order to saturate the liquid polymers with the clay minerals. Then tile on-processed gel has to be finely crystallized. The clay minerals, which are the core elements for this gel, were used as a function of Binder & Buffer and liquid polymer was mixed together for the deterioration of the surface tension of each component and to from a functional film in the gel. This liquid polymer was combined with clay minerals because it is not miscible with most oils and solvents. Waxes have a function of keeping a solid status in the stick. We reduced the usage of waxes by putting clay minerals as buffer in the proportion of 0.5 : 1 with oil phase. Ceramide takes care of the skin when used regularly and maintains the skin’s moisture. Vitamins A and I contribute to preventing skin’aging by the activation of skin cells. We could get the stable viscous gel, which has about 80% oil phase using clay minerals and liquid polymer, The crystal 1 me structures of gel were surface-chemical1y-analyzed using SEM and Image Analyzer and were thermodynamically analyzed using DSC, Surface tension test and softness were done by Rheometer. In the end, these characteristics were verified by consumer panel tests in Seoul, Baegeon and Pusan in Korea and Hokkaido, Oska and Miyazaki in Japan with correlation to the climate.

Acne vulgaris, the most common skin disease. can be formed as only a few comedons or severe inflammatory lesions. The pathogenesis of acne involves various factors; excessive androgen, excessive sebum production, abnormal alteration of follicular epithelium, proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes, and inflammation. We investigated acne therapy using oriental herbs described in the Korean traditional medical book (Dong-ui-bo-gam). Oriental herbs (Angleica daurica. Arctium lappa. Coptidis rhizoma, and glycyrrhiza glabra) were chosen based on their respective property of sebum control, anti-inflammatory activity, and anti-bacterial activity. We examined the effect of acne treatment, in terms of chemotactic inhibition, lipogenesis inhibition, and anti-bacterial activity for P. acnes. 1. Neutrophil chemotaxis assay ; P acnes secrete chemotactic factors and other pro-inflammatory extracellular products. Neutrophil chemotactic activity of P. acnes was measured by 48-well chemotaxis method. Angelica daurica clearly suppressed chemotactic activity of P. acens. 2. Using sebaceous gland of hamster ear lipogenesis assay; Sebaceous lipogenesis was measured using ear biopsies by incubation of $C^{14}$ -acetate in culture media. The $C^{14}$ -labeled lipids were extracted and determined by liquid scintilation counting, Coptidis rhizoma markedly inhibited sebum production, 3. Anti-bacterial assay for P. acnes (MIC test) Glycyrrhiza glabra showed anti-bacterial activity. P. acnes did not develop resistance against Glycyrrhiza glabra. Retinoids are effectively to inhibit sebum production and regulate follicular keratinization process, with little anti-inflammatory activity. Angelica daurica suppressed neutrophil chemotaxis. Coptidis rhizoma inhibited sebum production, and Glycyrrhiza glabra showed anti-bacterial activity against P. acnes. A combined formulation of Angelica daurica. Coptidisr hizoma and Glycyrrhiza glabra is expected to provide effective acne treatment.ent.ive acne treatment.

Liquid crystal known as a rheological barrier to coaleseence of oil dorplets. increases. emulsion stability, water-holding capacity and promotes active material penetration to skin. Some investigation for its rheological characteristics have been reported but its relations to consumer perception have been rarely published. In this study oil/water emulsion and oil/liquid crystal/water systems were manufactured using the same composition of Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride/Cetostearyl alcohol/Lanolin oil. and rheological properties of each system were investigated with Cone and Plate rheometer. The formation of liquid crystalline phase was observed with polarized microscope and Differential Scanning Calorimeter. Continuous shear experiment, creep yield and water holding capacity were measured for oil/water and oil/liquid crystal/water systems. The results were compared with sensory evaluations. Oil/liquid crystal/water system showed higher viscosity at the same shear rate, higher viscoelasticity and higher yield stress than oil/water system. These properties were expected to show good spreadability and excellent richness without waxiness I hair care products of creme type. This expectation was consistent with the results of sensory experiments. Water-holding capacity was evaluated by measuring residual water of specimens at specific temperature and relative humidity, Oil/liquid crystal/water system was proved to have ability to hold water in comparison with oil/water system. The results indicated that oil/liquid crystal/water system was of benefit to rheological properties creme type hair care products.

In the cosmetics field, facial skins have been classified into four types according to self estimation as well as physiological parameters. The aim of this study is to understand skin condition in the levels and composition of stratum corneum (SC) lipids, and to propose new classification for skin types. We assessed the relationship between the SC lipid composition and the self-estimated skin types or physiological parameters of the skin. Sensitive skin has been of great concern over the last decades, and it should be recognized as a skin type. Therefore, we also investigated the influence of the SC lipid composition on variations of sensitivity evaluated by the Stinging Test. Fifty-five healthy Japanese women aged 22-44 participated in this study. Skin biopsies were taken from facial skin using polyethylene sheet with cyanoacrylate. SC lipids were extracted and separated into individual lipid classes. The combined ceramides and cholesterol were quantified by HPTLC. Free fatty acid was quantified according to the ACS-ACOD method. Instrumental measurements were made at the site around the biopsy. In addition, the Stinging Test and a sensory evaluation questionnaire were administered to all subjects. The generally recognized O-D skin type classification is dependent on the consumer`s subjective assessment with respect to their skin troubles. The product of hydration state and skin surface lipid level showed a significant correlation with self-estimated skin types. The oily-dry skin type classified according to physiological parameters as well as SC lipid levels should be characterized as delicate skin with its barrier function deteriorating in the winter. Two groups of sensitive skin were established. One is the barrier function of the skin is deteriorated, and another is the sebaceous gland activity is in decline.

To identify inhibitory effect of Bamboo extract on melanogenesis, the effect was compared with arbutin. ascorbic acid, hydroquinone, and kojic acid on the melanin biosynthesis in Bl6 mouse melailoma cells and cultured hunlan melanocytes. The cell viability of the agent was tested on cultured human melanocytes. We also examined. its free radical scavenging activity on 1,1-dipheny1-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH). Bamboo extract showed considerable effect against melanin production and did not reduce cell viability at the concentration tested. It also showed potent free radical scavenging activity.

A novel retinol derivative, polyethoxylated retinamide (Medimin A) was synthesized, as an anti-aging agent. Collagen synthesis, skin permeation, stability, and toxicity of Medimin A were evaluated and compared with those of retinol and retinyl palmitate. In vitro collagen synthesis was evaluated by quantitative assay of [$^3H$]-proline incorporation into collagenase sensitive protein in fibroblast cultures. For in vitro skin permeation experiments, Franz diffusion cells (effective diffusion area: $1, 766{\;}\textrm{cm}^2$) and the excised skin of female hairless mouse aged 8 weeks were used The stabilities of retlnoids were evaluated at two different temperature ($25{\;}^{\circ}C$ and $40{\;}^{\circ}C$) and under UV in solubilized state and in OW emulsion. To estimate the safety, acute oral toxicity, acute dermal toxicity, primary skin irritation, acute eye irritation and human patch test were performed The effect of Medimin A on collagen synthesis was similar to that of retinol. The skin permeability of Medimin A was higher than those of retinol and retinyl palmitate. The Medimin A was more stable than retinol and retinyl palmitate. Medimin A was nontoxic in various toxicological tests. These results suggest that Medimin A would be a good anti-aging agent for enhancing bioavailability and stability.