The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology (문화기술의 융합)

The International Promotion Agency of Culture Technology (국제문화기술진흥원)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Optimization of mixing ratio of Polygala tenuifolia, Angelica dahurica and Elsholtzia splendens extracts for cosmetic material development

화장품 소재 개발을 위한 원지 (Polygala tenuifolia), 백지(Angelica dahurica) 및 꽃향유 (Elsholtzia splendens) 추출물의 혼합 비율 최적화

  • Received : 2023.10.05
  • Accepted : 2023.11.05
  • Published : 2023.11.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

Recently, enviromentally friendly natural substances derived from plants have been attracting attention as cosmetic materials, and research on various physiological activities of natural substances is being actively conducted. This study investigated the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and antibacterial effects of three types of extracts of mixtures containing different mixing ratios, Polygala tenuifolia, Angelica dahurica, and Elsholtzia splendens, known to have various physiological activities. The mixing ratio is 7 conditions (M1, 1:1:1; M2, 0.5:1.5:1; M3, 1.5:0.5:1; M4, 0.1:0.95:0.95; M5, 0.5:0.5:2; M6, 0.95 :1.95:0.1; M7, 1.45:0.1:1.45), and the optimal mixing ratio was confirmed for use as a cosmetic material. DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging activities showed scavenging abilities of 75.37% and 99.19%, respectively, at 1,000 ㎍/mL of M6. At a concentration of 200 ㎍/mL of M6, it showed 50% of nitric oxide production inhibition compared to the lipopolysaccharide-treated that induced an inflammatory response. It was confirmed that M3 and M6 produced hyaluronic acid 1.47 and 1.49 times higher than the control at a concentration of 50 ㎍/mL, respectively. Through the disc diffiusion test, the clear zone was 9.75 mm at 8 ㎍/mL of M6, confirming the inhibition of growth of staplylococcus aureus strain. Based on the above results, it is believed that the mixed extract of Polygala tenuifolia, Angelica dahurica, and Elsholtzia splendens can be used as a functional natural material for cosmetics.

최근 화장품 소재로서 환경친화적인 식물성 유래 천연물질이 주목받고 있으며, 천연물의 다양한 생리활성에 대한 연구가 활발히 이루어지고 있다. 본 연구에서는 다양한 생리활성이 있다고 알려져 있는 약용식물 원지 (P olygala tenuifolia), 백지 (Angelica dahurica), 꽃향유 (Elsholtzia splendens) 3종 추출물의 배합 비율을 달리하여 항산화, 항염증, 보습 및 항균 효능을 조사하였다. 배합 비율은 7가지 조건 (M1, 1:1:1; M2, 0.5:1.5:1; M3, 1.5:0.5:1; M4, 0.1:0.95:0.95; M5, 0.5:0.5:2; M6, 0.95:1.95:0.1; M7, 1.45:0.1:1.45)으로 설정하여 추출하였고, 화장품 소재로 활용하기위해 최적의 혼합 비율을 확인하였다. DPPH 및 ABTS radical 소거 활성은 M6 1,000 ㎍/mL에서 각각 75.37% 및99.19%의 소거능을 나타냈다. M6 200 ㎍/mL 농도에서는 염증반응을 유도한 lipopolysaccharide 처리군 대비 50% 의 Nitric oxide 생성 억제 효과를 보였다. M3와 M6은 50 ㎍/mL 농도에서 대조군에 비해 hyaluronic acid 생성량이 각각 1.47배, 1.49배 높은 것을 확인하였다. Disc diffiusion 테스트에서는 M6 8 ㎍/mL에서 clear zone이 9.75 mm로 나타나 Staplylococcus aureus 균주의 생장 억제를 확인하였다. 이상의 결과로 원지, 백지, 꽃향유 혼합 추출물은 화장품의 기능성 천연소재로 사용 가능할 것이라 판단된다.

Keywords

Acknowledgement

본 연구는 "중소기업기술혁신개발사업-시장대응형(과제번호: S3289410)"에 지원에 의해 수행되었으며, 이에 감사드립니다.

References

  1. Y.K. Choi and B.J. Ha, "Comparison of the Physicochemical Characteristics and Antibacterial Efficiencies of the Extracts Obtained from Artemisia princeps var. orientalis," Asian Journal of Beauty & Cosmetology, Vol. 12, No. 5, pp. 685-692, October 2014.
  2. H.S. Kim, J.M. Cheon, D.H. Kwon, E.O. Choi, M.J. Kim, Y.H. Choi, B.W. Kim and H.J. Hwang, "Inhibitory Effects of Myelophycus simplex Papenfuss Methanol Extract on Melanogenesis in B16F10 Melanoma Cells," Journal of The Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition, Vol. 46, No. 1, pp. 34-38, January 2017. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3746/jkfn.2017.46.1.034
  3. K.D. Kim, "Research of Efficacy & Stability about Mixed Medicinal Plants Extracts," Jounal of The Korean Society of cosmetology, Vol. 13, No. 2, pp. 601-608, July 2007.
  4. Ahn, J.H., the Antioxidant, Antimicrobial and Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Natural Extract Mixtures, Ph.D. Thesis. University of Kosin, Busan, Korea., 2018.
  5. B.H. May, C. Lu, Y. Lu, A.L. Zhang and C.C Xue, "Chinese Herbs for Memory Disorders: A Review and Systematic Analysis of Classical Herbal Literature," Journal of Acupuncture & Meridian Studies, Vol. 6, No. 1, pp. 2-11, February 2013. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jams.2012.11.009
  6. R.O. de Campos, A.R. Santos, Z.R. Vaz, T.R. Pinheiro, M.G. Pizzolatti and V. Cechinel Filho, "Antinociceptive Properties of the Hydroalcoholic Extract and Preliminary Study of a Xanthone Isolated from Polygala cyparissias(Polygalaceae)," Life Sciences, Vol. 61, No. 16, pp. 1619-1630, September 1997. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/S0024-3205(97)00741-8
  7. J.Y. Hwang, Y.X. Wu, D.I. Hwang, S.J. Bae and T. Kim, "Anti-obesity Effect of Polygala tenuifolia," Korean Journal of Food Preservation, Vol. 21, No. 1, pp. 97-106, February 2014. DOI: https://doi.org/10.11002/kjfp.2014.21.1.97
  8. K.C. Huang, The Pharmacology of Chinese herbs, CRC press LLC Florida, pp. 286-287, 1999.
  9. H.Y. Kim, C. Park, Y.H. Choi and W.D. Hwang, "The Protective Effect of Ethanol Extract of Polygalae Radix against Oxidative Stress-Induced DNA Damage and Apoptosis in Chang Liver Cells," Journal of Korean Medicine for Obesity Research, Vol. 19, No. 1, pp. 1-11, May 2019. DOI: https://doi.org/10.15429/jkomor.2019.19.1.1
  10. H.S. Oh and B.W. Kim, "Anti-inflammatory activity of the Water Extract of Root of Polygala tenuifolia Willd.," The Journal of Internal Korean Medicine, Vol. 34, No. 2, pp. 204-214, June 2013.
  11. D.S. Lee, H.G. Choi, B. Li, K.S. Kim, S.A. Kim, S.K. Chon, J.M. Rho, K.M. Kim, J.H. Han, G.S. Jeong and Y.C. Kim, "Neuroprotective Effect of the Acid Hydrolysis Fraction of the Root of Polygala tenuifolia." Korean J Oriental Physiology & Pathology, Vol. 25, No. 4, pp. 628-634, August 2013.
  12. S.H. Kim and D.K. Chung, "Nootropic and Anti-amnestic Effect of PPA on Scopolamine-induced Cognitive Impairment in Mice". J of Oriental Neuropsychiatry. Vol. 22, No. 4, pp. 185-199, October 2011. https://doi.org/10.7231/JON.2011.22.4.185
  13. H.S. Kim, and H.J. Choi, "Studies on Essential Oils of Plants of Angelica genus in Korea(III)," Korean Journal of Pharmacognosy, Vol. 21, No. 2, pp. 121-125, June 1990.
  14. E.Y. Joo and W.J. Kang, "Analysis on the Components of the Angelica dahurica Root," the Korean Society of Food Preservation, Vol. 12, No. 5, pp. 476-481, October 2005.
  15. S.H. Kim, S.S. Kang and C.M. Kim, "Coumarin Glycosides from the Roots of Angelica dahurica," Archives of Pharmacal Research, Vol. 15, No. 1, pp. 73-77, March 1992. https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02973988
  16. Y.S. Kwon and C.M. Kim, "Coumarin Glycosides from the Roots of Angelica dahurica," Korean Journal of Pharmacognosy, Vol. 24, No. 4, pp. 221-224, December 1992.
  17. M.H. Jin, M.H. Jung, Y.H. Lim, S.H. Lee, S.J. Kang and W.G. Cho, "Promoting Synthesis of Collagen from Angelica dahurica Root," Korean Journal of Pharmacognosy, Vol. 35, No. 4, pp. 315-319, December 2004.
  18. D.K. Kim, J.P. Lim, J.H. Yang, D.O. Eom, J.S. Eun and K.H. Leem, "Acetylcholinesterase Inhibitors from the Roots of Angelica dahurica," Archives of Pharmacal Research, Vol. 25, No. 6, pp. 856-859, December 2002. https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02977004
  19. C.M. Kim, Y.S. Kwon and S.Y. Choi, "Antithrombotic Effect of the BuOH Soluble Fraction of Angelica dahurica Root," Korean Journal of Pharmacognosy, Vol. 26, No. 1, pp. 74-77, March 1995.
  20. S.Y. Ryu, J.C. Kim, Y.S. Kim, H.T. Kim, W.K. Kim, G.J. Choi, J.S. Kim, S.W. Lee, J.H. Heor and K.Y. Cho, "Antifungal Activities of Coumarins Isolated from Angelica gigas and Angelica dahurica Against Plant Pathogenic Ffungi," The Korean Society of Pesicide Science, Vol. 5, No. 3, pp. 26-35, September 2001.
  21. H.S. Han, S.S. Lim, K. Suzuki, S.H. Jung, S. Lee, Y.S. Lee, K.H. Shin and K. Ohuchi, "Inhibitory Effects of Furanocoumarins Isolated from the Roots of Angelica dahurica on Prostaglandin E2 Production," Planta Medica, Vol. 69, No. 5, pp. 408-412, May 2003. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1055/s-2003-39702.
  22. C.B. Lee, Korean Dictionary of Plant, Hyangmunsa, pp. 660, 1999.
  23. M.S. Chung and M.S. Lee, "Development of Elsholtzia splendens-Flavored Oils and Analysis of Flavor Pattern Using Electronic Nose," Korean Journal of Food and Cookery Science, Vol. 18, No. 4, pp. 455-460, August 2002.
  24. K. Bae, the medicinal plants of Korea, Kyohaksa Co., pp. 435, 2000.
  25. K.H. Sohn, J.S. Song, Y.A. Chae and K.S. Kim, "The Growth and Analysis of Essential oil Of Elsholtzia splendens Nakai," Korean Society for Horticultural Science, Vol. 40, No. 2, pp. 271-275, April 1999.
  26. S.J. Kim and G.H. Kim, "Identification for Flavones in Different Parts of Cirsium japonicum," Preventive Nutrition and Food Science, Vol. 8, No. 4, pp. 330-335, December 2003. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3746/jfn.2003.8.4.330
  27. Kang, J.R., Antioxidant Activity and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Activity of Elscholtziae Herba, Ph.D. thesis. Chung-Ang University, Seoul, Korea., 2004
  28. D.W. Kim, K.H. Son, H.W. Chang, K.H. Bae, S.S Kang and H.P. Kim, "Anti-inflammatory Activity of Elsholtzia splendens," Archives of Pharmacal Research, Vol. 26, No. 3, pp. 232-236, March 2003. https://doi.org/10.1007/BF02976835
  29. M.S. Blois, "Antioxidant Determinations by the Use of a Stable Free Radical," Nature, Vol. 181, No. 4617, pp. 1199-1200, April 1958. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1038/1811199a0
  30. S.H. Heo, S.I. Park, G.M. An and M.S. Shin, "Physiological Activity of Robinia pseudo acacia Leaf Extracts and Enhancement of Skin Permeation Using Polymer Micelles and Cell Penetrating Peptide," The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology, Vol. 5, No. 3, pp. 271-282, August 2019. DOI: https://doi.org/10.17703/JCCT.2019.5.3.271
  31. R. Re, N. Pellegrini, A. Proteggente, A. Pannala, M. Yang and C. Riceevans, "Antioxidant Activity Applying an Improved ABTS Radical Cation Decolorization Assay," Free Radical Biology & Medicine, Vol. 26, No. 9-10, pp. 1231-1237, May 1999. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/S0891-5849(98)00315-3
  32. M.O. Ko, H.J. Kang, J.H. Hwang and K.W. Yang, "Screening of the Antibacterial Effects by Ethanol Extracts from Natural Plant in Jeju Against Propionibacterium Acnes," Journal of Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea. Vol. 44, No. 1, pp. 59-66, March 2018. DOI: https://doi.org/10.15230/SCSK.2018.44.1.59
  33. V. Bondet, W. Brand-Williams and C. Berset, "Kinetics and Mechanisms of Antioxidant Activity Using the DPPH Rree Radical Method," Lebensm Wiss Technol, Vol. 30, No. 6, pp. 609-615, September 1997. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1006/fstl.1997.0240
  34. E. Papakonstantinou, M. Roth and G. Karakiulakis, "Hyaluronic acid: A Key Molecule in Skin Aging," Dermato Endocrinology, Vol. 4, No. 3, pp. 253-258, July 2012. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4161/derm.21923
  35. J.J. Biemer, "Antimicrobial Susceptibility Testing by the Kirby-Bauer Disc Diffusion Method," Annals of Clinical & Laboratory Science, Vol. 3, No. 2, pp. 135-140, April 1973.