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Type of Oil and Effect of Required HLB on Nanoemulsion Formation

오일의 종류 및 required HLB가 나노에멀젼 형성에 미치는 영향

  • Da-yeon Lee (Department of Cosmetic Science, Semyung University) ;
  • Hye-yun Hwang (Department of Cosmetic beauty biotechnology, Semyung University) ;
  • Su-min Lim (Department of Cosmetic beauty biotechnology, Semyung University) ;
  • Hy-ein Jang (Department of Cosmetic, Semyung University)
  • 이다연 (세명대학교 일반대학원 화장품과학과) ;
  • 황혜윤 (세명대학교 화장품뷰티생명공학부) ;
  • 임수민 (세명대학교 화장품뷰티생명공학부) ;
  • 장혜인 (세명대학교 화장품학과)
  • Received : 2023.11.25
  • Accepted : 2023.12.29
  • Published : 2023.12.30

Abstract

Nanoemulsion is an emulsion with a particle size of about 20 ~ 200 nm and has the advantage of having a transparent or translucent appearance and improving the skin permeability of an effective material with a small particle size, so it is applied in various fields. In this study, eight oils with different types of HLB and 16 oils with different types of required HLB were selected to investigate the effect of the required HLB and the type on the formation of nanoemulsion. The surfactants used at this time were Polysorbate 60 (HLB 14.9), Sorbitan state (HLB 4.7), PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil (HLB 14.0), which were mixed with Polysorbate 60 and Sorbitan state, fixed with HLB 14.0, and Polysorbate 60 and PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, respectively. The formation of nanoemulsion was different depending on the type of oil, and oil with an ester structure showed a relatively excellent nanoemulsion formation ability. In particular, it was confirmed that a stable nanoemulsion was formed without a significant change after Cetyl ethylhexanoin was produced in a small size of 40 nm or less on average. In addition, it was found that using a mixture of Polysorbate 60 and Sorbitan stearate has a superior nanoemulsion formation ability than using PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil or Polysorbate 60 alone.

나노에멀젼이란 20 ~ 200nm 정도의 입자 크기를 갖는 에멀젼으로 투명하거나 반투명한 외관을 가지며, 작은 입자 사이즈로 유효물질의 피부 투과율을 향상시킬 수 있다는 장점이 있어 다양한 분야에서 응용되고 있다. 본 연구에서는 오일의 required HLB와 종류가 나노에멀젼 형성에 미치는 영향에 대하여 알아보기 위해 required HLB가 다른 오일 8가지, 종류가 다른 16가지의 오일을 선정하여 연구를 진행하였다. 이때 사용한 계면활성제로는 Polysorbate 60 (HLB 14.9), Sorbitan stearate (HLB 4.7), PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil (HLB 14.0)이며 Polysorbate 60과 Sorbitan stearate를 혼합하여 HLB 14.0으로 고정한 것과 Polysorbate 60, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil을 각각 사용하여 제조하였다. 오일의 종류에 따라 나노에멀젼 형성이 다르게 나타났으며 에스터계 구조를 가지는 오일이 비교적 우수한 나노에멀젼 형성 능력을 보여주었는데, 특히 Cetyl ethylhexanoin이 평균 40nm 이하의 작은 사이즈로 생성된 후 큰 변화없이 안정한 나노에멀젼이 형성된 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 또한, Polysorbate 60과 Sorbitan stearate를 혼합하여 사용하는 것이 PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil 혹은 Polysorbate 60 각각 단독으로 사용하는 것보다 우수한 나노에멀젼 형성 능력을 가지는 것으로 나타났다.

Keywords

Acknowledgement

본 결과물은 2023년 교육부의 재원으로 한국연구재단의 지원을 받아 수행된 지자체-대학 협력기반 지역혁신 사업의 결과입니다.(2021RIS-001)

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