대한화장품학회지 (Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea)

  • 제48권4호
  • /
  • Pages.373-383
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  • 2022
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  • 1226-2587(pISSN)
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  • 2288-9507(eISSN)
대한화장품학회 (Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea)
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지리산오갈피, 가시오갈피, 오갈피나무, 오가나무 추출물의 항염증, 피부장벽개선, 항노화 효능 비교

Comparison of Anti-inflammatory, Skin Barrier Improvement, and Anti-aging Efficacy of Eleutherococcus divaricatus var. chiisanensis and various Eleutherococcus Genus Extract

  • 한지원 ((재)남원시화장품산업지원센터) ;
  • 남보미 (국립호남권생물자원관 자원은행부) ;
  • 이범석 ((재)남원시화장품산업지원센터) ;
  • 고진아 ((재)남원시화장품산업지원센터) ;
  • 황지영 ((재)남원시화장품산업지원센터)
  • Jiwon, Han (Institute of Natural Cosmetic Industry for Namwon) ;
  • Bomi, Nam (Division of Bioresourves Bank, Honam National Institute of Biological Resources) ;
  • Beom seok, Lee (Institute of Natural Cosmetic Industry for Namwon) ;
  • Jin-A, Ko (Institute of Natural Cosmetic Industry for Namwon) ;
  • Jiyoung, Hwang (Institute of Natural Cosmetic Industry for Namwon)
  • 투고 : 2022.12.06
  • 심사 : 2022.12.29
  • 발행 : 2022.12.30
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초록

활성산소로 인한 염증 유발과 그로 인한 장벽손상은 꾸준히 주름생성의 원인으로 지목되어 왔다. 본 연구에서는 오갈피나무속에 속해있는 지리산오갈피와 가시오갈피, 오갈피나무, 오가나무 4종의 추출물에 대한 항산화, 항염증 및 피부 장벽개선, 항노화 관련 기능성 화장품 소재로서의 활용가치를 검증하고자 유효 지표성분 탐색과 효능 분석을 수행하였다. 먼저, 오갈피나무속 식물인 지리산오갈피와 가시오갈피, 오갈피나무, 오가나무 각각을 50% 에탄올을 용매로 추출, 농축, 동결건조 하여 시료를 제조하였다. 유효 지표성분탐색을 위해 주요 지표 성분인 eleutheroside E와 오갈피나무속에서 주로 검출되는 폴리페놀류 중 chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid 에 대하여 고성능 액체크로마토그래피를 통해 성분 함량을 측정하였으며, 오갈피나무속 중 지리산오갈피에서 eleutheroside E와 chlorogenic acid의 함량이 가장 높은 것을 확인하였다. 항산화활성은 DPPH 라디칼 소거활성이 지리산오갈피에서 가장 높았으며, 항염증 효능의 경우 LPS로 염증이 유발된 대식세포 내 NO 생성 억제 효능은 가시오갈피, 오가나무, 오갈피나무 추출물 100 ㎍/mL에서 각각 25%, 26%, 32% 일 때 지리산오갈피 추출물 100 ㎍/mL는 40% 억제 효능을 보였고 pro-inflammatory cytokine으로 알려진 IL-6 발현 억제 효능은 가시오갈피, 오가나무, 오갈피나무 추출물 100 ㎍/mL 농도에서 각각 20%, 36%, 23% 일 때 지리산오갈피 추출물 100 ㎍/mL는 41% 억제 효능을 보였다. 또한, 지리산오갈피 추출물 100 ㎍/mL에서 피부장벽 관련 인자인 filaggrin, involucrin의 발현이 각각 2.5 배, 1.6 배 증가되었으며, 주름관련 인자인 콜라겐분해효소는 29% 억제 효능을 나타내어 오갈피나무속 4 종 중 지리산오갈피는 피부의 염증 억제와 장벽강화, 주름개선용 화장품소재로써 활용가능하리라 판단된다.

Inflammation caused by active oxygen and the resulting barrier damage have been consistently pointed out as the cause of wrinkle formation. In this study, effective index ingredient search and efficacy analysis were performed to verify the value of use as a functional cosmetic material related to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin barrier improvement, and anti-aging for extracts of four types of Eleutherococcus divaricatus var. chiisanensis (ED), Eleutherococcus senticosus (EN), Eleutherococcus sessiliflorus (ES), and Eleutherococcus sieboldianus (EI) belonging to the Eleutherococcus genus. To identify the effective index composition, the content of the ingredients was measured by high-performance liquid chromatography. The content of eleutheroside E and chlorogenic acid was the highest in ED among the Eleutherococcus genus. As for anti-oxidant activity, DPPH radical scavenging activity was the highest in ED. In anti-inflammatory effects, ED extracts inhibited nitric oxide generation in inflammatory macrophage cells due to lipopolysaccharide by 40% at 100 ㎍/mL. In the case of IL-6 inhibition, which is known as a pro-inflammatory cytokine, ED showed 41% inhibition at 100 ㎍/mL. In addition, filaggrin and involucrin, which are skin barrier-related factors, were increased by 2.5 times and 1.6 times, respectively, in 100 ㎍/mL of ED extracts, and as for the collagenase, which is a wrinkle-related factor, ED extract showed 29% efficacy at 100 ㎍/mL. Thus, these result suggested that ED extract, among the four Eleutherococcus genus, can be used as a cosmetic ingredient for suppressing inflammation in the skin, reinforcing the skin barrier, and reducing wrinkles.

키워드

과제정보

본 결과물은 농림축산식품부의 재원으로 농림수산식품 기술기획평가원의 농생명산업기술개발사업의 지원을 받아 연구되었으며 이에 감사드립니다(과제번호: 317024-5).

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