DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

현대 패션에 나타난 모던의 표현특성과 의미 -보그와 뉴욕타임즈를 중심으로-

The Expressive Characteristics and Meanings of Modern in Fashion -Focusing on Vogue and The New York Times-

  • Nam, HyeJin (Dept. of Textiles, Merchandising & Fashion Design, Seoul National University) ;
  • Ha, Jisoo (Research Institute of Human Ecology, Seoul National University)
  • 투고 : 2020.10.26
  • 심사 : 2021.01.22
  • 발행 : 2021.04.30

초록

This study aims to examine the expressive characteristics and meanings of modern in contemporary fashion, especially focusing on Vogue and The New York Times. First, modern signified originality born out of borderless fusion and compromise. It was also expressed to signify diversity and tolerance not bounded by conventions, TPO, areas, ethnic groups, seasons, or gender. Second, modern meant functionality encompassing the comfort of body and mind. It was used to refer to convenient mobility and activity fit for the lifestyle of busy modern people. Third, lightness and naturalness were used as new meanings of beauty in modern fashion. In the fashion of the twenty-first century, the principal meaning of modern was lightness, which was sought after in everything including materials, modes of wearing, and ways of thinking. Finally, modern fashion was expressed as a democratic tool for social reform and used in the meaning of enlightenment to benefit society as well as oneself. The results of this study indicate that constant changes in trends, lifestyles, and psychology of contemporary society have the potential to give new meaning to the concept and the use of the term modern.

키워드

과제정보

본 논문은 서울대학교 생활과학연구소의 지원으로 수행되었음.

참고문헌

  1. Arnold, R. (2008). Movement and modernity: New York sports wear, dance, and exercise in the 1930s and 1940s. Fashion Theory, 12(3), 341-357. doi:10.2752/175174108X332323
  2. Barbey d'Aurevilly, J. (2014). 멋쟁이 남자들의 이야기 댄디즘: 최초의 멋쟁이 조지 브 러멀에 대한 상세한 보고서 [Dandyism story of fashionable men: A detailed report on the first gorgeous George Brummel] (B.-M. Ko & J. E. Lee, Trans.). Paju: Yibom. (Original work published 1845)
  3. Bhaskaran, L. (2007). Designs of the times (M. Chung, Trans.). Seoul: Sigongart. (Original work published 2005)
  4. Bowles, H. (2010, July 1). Fashion & features: Noble farewell. Vogue, 200(7), 142, 143, 144, 145. Retrieved from https://search.proquest.com/docview/879318830?accountid=146597
  5. Breward, C. (2003). Fashion. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
  6. Calinescu, M. (1993). 모더니티의 다섯 얼굴: 모더니티/아방가르드/데카당스/키치/포스트모더니즘 [Five faces of modernity: Modernism, Avant-garde, Decadence, Kitsch, Postmodernism] (Y. W. Lee., H. U. Baek., M. S. Oh, & J. S. Baek, Trans.). Seoul: Vision and Langauge. (Original work published 1987)
  7. Choi, C. (2010). 20세기 문화 지형도 (개정판) [20th century cultural topographic map (Rev. ed.)]. Paju: Culturegrapher.
  8. Comita, J. (2002, October 1). Vogue view: Revamp, rethink, recycle. Vogue, 192(10), 197, 198, 200, 202, 204. Retrieved from https://search.proquest.com/docview/879310227?accountid=146597
  9. Cover story. (2018, September 1). Vogue, 208(9), 586, 587, 588, 589, 590, 591, 592, 593. Retrieved from https://search.proquest.com/docview/2113247723?accountid=146597
  10. Design Museum. (2010). 세상을 바꾼 50가지 드레스 [Fifty dresses that changed the world] (J. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Hongdesign. (Original work published 2009)
  11. Entwistle, J. (2013). The fashioned body: Fashion, dress and modern social theory (K.-H. Choi, Trans.). Seoul: Hansung University Press. (Original work published 2000)
  12. Fashion: "Are clothes modern?". (1945, February 1). Vogue, 105 (3), 121, 122, 123, 172, 174. Retrieved from https://search.proquest.com/docview/904315008?accountid=146597
  13. Flash: Talking fashion: Belles on wheels. (2008, October 1). Vogue, 198(10), 178. Retrieved from https://search.proquest.com/docview/879325130?accountid=146597
  14. Friedman, V. (2015, December 11). Called out for copying, Chanel does the right thing. The New York Times. Retrieved from https://www.nytimes.com/2015/12/12/fashion/called-out-for-copying-chanel-does-the-right-thing.html?searchResultPosition=886
  15. Friedman, V. (2016, May 23). MoMA finally embraces fashion with plans for 'Is Fashion Modern?'. The New York Times. Retrieved from https://www.nytimes.com/2016/05/21/fashion/moma-finally-embraces-fashion-with-plans-for-is-fashion-modern.html
  16. Friedman, V. (2018, December 4). The power of the yellow vest. The New York Times. Retrieved from https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/04/fashion/yellow-vests-france-protest-fashion.html?searchResultPosition=189
  17. Friedman, V. (2019. January 22). Walking the fashion high wire. The New York Times. Retrieved from https://www.nytimes.com/2019/01/22/fashion/dior-chanel-couture-paris.html?searchResultPosition=175
  18. Habermas, J. (1994). 현대성의 철학적 담론 [The philosophical discourse of modernity] (J. W. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Moonye Publishing Co., Ltd. (Original work published 1985)
  19. Harrison, C., Wood, P., & Gaiger, J. (Eds.). (1998). Art in theory: 1815-1900: An anthology of changing ideas. Oxford and Malden: Blackwell Publishers Ltd.
  20. Herman, J. (2006, October 1). View: Before night falls. Vogue, 196(10), 244, 246, 248. Retrieved from https://search.proquest.com/docview/879309949?accountid=146597
  21. Heyman, M. (2003, March 1). Vogue view: This old house: Adolfo & Galanos. Vogue, 193(3), 322. Retrieved from https://search.proquest.com/docview/879315178?accountid=146597
  22. Holgate, M. (2018, March 1). The halo effect. Vogue, 208(3), 348, 349, 434, 435. Retrieved from https://search.proquest.com/docview/2023597507?accountid=146597
  23. Hollander, A. (1993). Seeing through clothes. Berkeley, Los Angeles, and London: University of California Press.
  24. Hollander, A. (1994). Sex and suits: The evolution of modern dress. New York, NY: Alfred A. Knopf, Inc.
  25. Holt, E. (2011, April 1). View: Counterintuitive style: Size matters. Vogue, 201(4), 190, 192. Retrieved from https://search.proquest.com/docview/911906487?accountid=146597
  26. Horyn, C. (2012, December 28). First in fashion. The New York Times. Retrieved from https://www.nytimes.com/2012/12/30/fashion/michelle-obama-first-in-fashion.html?searchResultPosition=2
  27. Index: Wedding guide: Marry, marry, quite contrary. (2008, June 1). Vogue, 198(6), 196, 198, 199. Retrieved from https://search.proquest.com/docview/911905366?accountid=146597
  28. Jung, H. S. (2017, November 1). Being modern : MoMA in Paris. Vogue Korea. Retrieved from http://www.vogue.co.kr/2017/11/01/being-modern-moma-in-paris/
  29. Kim, H.-Y., & Hur, D.-S. (2005). A study of the formative characteristics in architecture and fashion of the modernism period. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 55(4), 62-78.
  30. Konig, A. (2006). Glossy words: An analysis of fashion writing in British Vogue. Fashion Theory, 10(1-2), 205-224. doi:10.2752/13627040677805108
  31. Kumar, K. (2012). From post-industrial to post-modern society - New theories of the contemporary world (2nd ed.) (S. P. Lee, J. S. Shin, & S.-W. Sin, Trans.). Seoul: Raum. (Original work published 2004)
  32. Lankarani, N. (2013, November 18). Pursuing sensual beauty with the latest technology. The New York Times. Retrieved from https://www.nytimes.com/2013/11/19/fashion/pursuing-sensual-beauty-with-the-latest-technology.html?searchResultPosition=93
  33. L. Y. (2012, September 1). View: The modern fur lightness of being: With his airy rocker designs for Revillon, Andrew Heather is shedding fur's dowdy elitism. Vogue, 202(9), 636, 638. Retrieved from https://search.proquest.com/docview/1081667759?acc-ountid=146597
  34. Malpas, S. (2008). 장 프랑수아 리오타르: 포스트모더니즘을 구하라 [Jean-Francois Liotard: Save postmodernism] (D.-G. Yun, Trans.). Seoul: LPbook (Original work published 2003)
  35. Menkes, S. (2010, September 9). Savoring victory with personal style. The New York Times. Retrieved from https://www.nytimes.com/2010/09/10/fashion/10iht-ffsuzy2.html?searchResultPosition=66
  36. Mod goddess. (2014, July 1). Vogue, 204(7), 110, 111, 112, 113, 114, 115, 116, 117, 118, 119, 150, 151. Retrieved from https://search.proquest.com/docview/1547831101?accountid=146597
  37. Modern. (2020). Lexico.com. Retrieved from https://www.lexico.com/definition/modern
  38. Modern. (n.d.). Thesaurus.com. Retrieved from https://www.thesaurus.com/browse/modern?s=t
  39. Modernity. (2020, September 8). Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Modernity
  40. Mower, S. (2007, November 1). View: Extreme silhouettes: Going to extremes. Vogue, 197(11), 193, 194, 196. Retrieved from https://search.proquest.com/docview/879319326?accountid=146597
  41. Mower, S. (2015, April 1). What to wear where: Going long. Vogue, 205(4), 274, 275, 276, 277, 278, 279, 280, 281. Retrieved from https://search.proquest.com/docview/1683307966?accountid=146597
  42. Mrs. exeter: Style council: Leave the meringue-skirted explosions of froufrou to the fairy tales. (2004, September 1). Vogue, 194(9), 484, 488. Retrieved from https://search.proquest.com/docview/879313203?accountid=146597
  43. Nam, H. J., & Ha, J. (2017). A study on Effortless Chic in modern fashion. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 41(6), 994-1009. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2017.41.6.994
  44. Neilson, L. (2014, April 4). The few, the brave: Men in tights. The New York Times. Retrieved from https://www.nytimes.com/2014/04/06/fashion/the-few-the-brave-men-in-tights.html?searchResultPosition=448
  45. Parker, L. (2019, March 21). Yes, you can play with your clothes. The New York Times. Retrieved from https://www.nytimes.com/2019/03/21/fashion/adhd-fidget-fashion-.html?searchResultPosition=150
  46. Paton, E. (2018a, January 8). London men's wear shows reflect on race and masculinity. The New York Times. Retrieved from https://www.nytimes.com/2018/01/08/fashion/london-wales-bonner-charles-jeffrey.html?searchResultPosition=
  47. Paton, E. (2018b, October 12). Why princess Eugenie's Peter Pilotto wedding dress was a thoroughly modern choice. The New York Times. Retrieved from https://www.nytimes.com/2018/10/12/fashion/princess-eugenie-peter-pilotto-wedding-dress.html?searchResultPosition=204
  48. Paton, E. (2019a, October 6). Extinction rebellion takes aim at fashion. The New York Times. Retrieved from https://www.nytimes.com/2019/10/06/fashion/extinction-rebellion-fashion-protest.html?searchResultPosition=57
  49. Paton, E. (2019b, November 26). The hoodie enters the museum. The New York Times. Retrieved from https://www.nytimes.com/2019/11/26/fashion/hoodies-museum-exhibit-rotterdam.html?searchResultPosition=19
  50. Pevsner, N. (2013). Pioneers of modern design (J. S. Kwon, J. H. Kim, & Y. J. An, Trans.). Seoul: Vizandbiz. (Original work published 2011)
  51. Remsen, N. (2017, October 1). Talking fashion: Putting on a show. Vogue, 207(10), 198, 200. Retrieved from https://search.proquest.com/docview/1955382941?accountid=146597
  52. Shin, S. O. (2016). A history of costume in the west (Rev. ed.). Seoul: Soohaksa.
  53. Singer, M. (2017, March 1). The great beauty shake-up. Vogue, 207(3), 436, 437, 438, 439, 440, 441, 442, 443, 444, 445, 446, 447, 448, 449, 506. Retrieved from https://search.proquest.com/docview/1877704147?accountid=146597
  54. Singer, S. (2000, October 1). Vogue point of view: A fine vintage. Vogue, 190(10), 387, 388, 389, 390, 391, 392, 393, 394, 395, 396, 397, 478, 479. Retrieved from https://search.proquest.com/docview/879323108?accountid=146597
  55. Singer, S. (2002, February 1). Features: Manhattan rhapsody. Vogue, 192(2), 232, 233, 234, 235, 236, 237. Retrieved from https://search.proquest.com/docview/897874041?accountid=146597
  56. The man who styled the world. (2019, June 1). Vogue, 209(6), 110, 111, 112, 113, 147, 148, 149. Retrieved from https://search.proquest.com/docview/2269821493?accountid=146597
  57. West, E. (2011). A modern(ist) mode: Fashion, 1910, and the limits of modernism. Word and Text: A Journal of Literary Studies and Linguistics, 1(2), 65-78.
  58. Wilson, E. (2003). Adorned in dreams: Fashion and modernity (Revised and Updated ed.). New Brunswick, NJ: Rutgers University Press.
  59. Wood, A. (2016). Modernism, exclusivity, and the sophisticated public of Harper's Bazaar (UK). Modernist Cultures, 11(3), 370-388. doi:10.3366/mod.2016.0146
  60. Woodham, J. M. (2007). Twentieth-century design (J. A. Park, Trans.). Seoul: Sigongart. (Original work published 1997)
  61. Woods, V. (2000, July 1). Features: Cate modern. Vogue, 190 (7), 176, 177, 178, 179, 180, 181, 218, 219. Retrieved from https://search.proquest.com/docview/897875701?accountid=146597
  62. Woods, V. (2009, March 1). Fashion & features: Power monarch: Royal appeal. Vogue, 199(3), 440, 441, 442, 443, 505. Retrieved from https://search.proquest.com/docview/897877174?accountid=146597
  63. 모더니즘 [Modernism]. (2020, September 24). Wikipedia.. Retrieved from https://ko.wikipedia.org/wiki/%EB%AA%A8%EB%8D%94%EB%8B%88%EC%A6%98
  64. 반점 [Comma]. (n.d.). Daum 백과 [Daum encyclopedia]. Retrieved from https://100.daum.net/encyclopedia/view/v130ha210a16