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SWASH 모형을 이용한 해운대 해수욕장의 해빈류 특성

Characteristics of Wave-induced Currents using the SWASH Model in Haeundae Beach

  • 강민호 (부경대학교 대학원 토목공학과) ;
  • 김진석 (부경대학교 대학원 토목공학과) ;
  • 박정규 (부경대학교 대학원 토목공학과) ;
  • 이종섭 (부경대학교 토목공학과)
  • Kang, Min Ho (Civil Engineering, Graduate School of Pukyong National University) ;
  • Kim, Jin Seok (Civil Engineering, Graduate School of Pukyong National University) ;
  • Park, Jung Kyu (Civil Engineering, Graduate School of Pukyong National University) ;
  • Lee, Jong Sup (Department of Civil Engineering, Pukyong National University)
  • 투고 : 2015.09.02
  • 심사 : 2015.10.21
  • 발행 : 2015.12.31

초록

본 연구에서는 SWASH 모형을 이용하여 계절별 이상파랑에 의한 해운대 해수욕장에서 불규칙파의 파랑 변형 및 해빈류 특성을 분석하였다. 개경계에서 불규칙파는 JONSWAP 스펙트럼을 적용하였다. 입사파 조건은 국립해양조사원에서 제공하는 2014년 파랑관측자료를 바탕으로 계절별 대표파를 선정하였다. SWASH에 의한 계절별 해빈류 계산결과는 현장조사 결과와 비교 검토하였다. 하계의 경우 S 계열의 파랑이 지배적이며 동백섬측에서 미포측으로 연안류가 지배적으로 발생하였고 해운대 해수욕장 중앙부근에서는 이안류가 발생하였다. 동계의 경우 ESE 계열의 파랑이 지배적이며 해운대 해수욕장 중앙부근에서 각각 동백섬측과 미포측으로 향하는 연안류가 발생하였다.

To simulate a complicated hydrodynamic phenomena in the surf zone, the SWASH model is used in Haeundae Beach. The SWASH model is well known as a model competing with the Boussinesq-type model in terms of near shore waves and wave-induced currents modelling. This study is aimed to the detailed analysis of seasonal waves and wave-induced current simulation in Haeundae Beach, where the representative seasonal wave conditions was obtained from hourly measured wave data in 2014 by Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Administration( KHOA). Incident wave conditions were given as irregular waves by JONSWAP spectrum. The calculated seasonal wave-induced current patterns were compared with the field observation data. In summer season, a dominant longshore current toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident waves from the South and the bottom bathymetry, then some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. In the winter season, ESE incident waves generates a strong westward longshore currents. However, a weak eastward longshore currents appears at the restricted east side areas of the beach.

키워드

참고문헌

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