DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

현대패션비평에 관한 이론적 재고

A Theoretical Reconsideration of Contemporary Fashion Criticism

  • 최경희 (한성대학교 의류패션산업전공)
  • 투고 : 2014.01.07
  • 심사 : 2014.02.25
  • 발행 : 2014.02.28

초록

The purpose of this study is to illuminate the location of fashion in contemporary society and to suggest a direction for fashion criticism in aesthetic$\hat{u}$cultural perspective. For this, literature researches about some of art criticism and fashion criticism theories and cultural studies related to fashion are performed. In this study, fashion criticism is defined as a linguistic analysis and interpretation about a variety of discursive networks around fashion as well as an aesthetic analysis of it. Considering this definition, an analytical framework for the contemporary fashion criticism combines Feldman's and Carney's models with Crane & Bovone's and Entwistle's sociological studies for aesthetic and cultural perspectives. At first, its aesthetic perspective shows 'Description'-'Descriptive formative features', 'Analysis'-'Locate the style' and 'Aesthetic value', 'Interpretation'- 'Interpretation of the fashion object' and 'Socio-cultural interpretation', 'Judgment'-'Critical judgment'. Then, its cultural perspective especially emphasizes 'Socio-cultural interpretation' of the 6 steps above. Socio-cultural interpretation gets tangled with the network of various cultural agents within the fashion system, producers/designers, retailers/suppliers, media/editors, consumers/spectators, and so on. In the course of the fashion system 5 analytical methods about the fashion object can be suggested and they are as follows: Analyses of texts, discourses and symbols of a fashion object, Analyses of fashion systems which produces symbolic values, Analyses of the communication of symbolic values and the disseminating processes through the media, Analyses of the attribution of symbolic values to a fashion object by consumers, and Cross-national studies of symbolic values expressed in a fashion object.

키워드

참고문헌

  1. Barrett, T. (2004). Criticizing art (T. H. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: ArtBooks. (Original work published 2000)
  2. Carney, J. D. (1994). A historical theory of art criticism. Journal of Aesthetic Education, 28(1), 13-29. https://doi.org/10.2307/3333153
  3. Crane, D., & Bovone, L. (2006). Approaches to material culture: The sociology of fashion and clothing. Poetics, 34, 319-333. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.poetic.2006.10.002
  4. Crane, D. (2012). Boundaries: Using cultural theory to unravel the complex relationship between fashion and art. In A. Geczy & V. Karaminas (Eds.), Fashion and art (pp. 99-110). London, NY:Berg.
  5. Cronin, A. M. (2004). Regimes of mediation: Advertising practitioners as cultural intermediaries?. Consumption, Markets and Culture, 7(4), 349-369. https://doi.org/10.1080/1025386042000316315
  6. Entwistle, J. (2002). The aesthetic economy: The production of value in the field of fashion modeling. Journal of Consumer Culture, 2(3), 317-339. https://doi.org/10.1177/146954050200200302
  7. Entwistle, J. (2006). The cultural economy of fashion buying. Current Sociology, 54(5), 704-724. https://doi.org/10.1177/0011392106066812
  8. Entwistle, J. (2013). The fashioned body (K. Y. Choi, Trans.). Seoul:Hansung University Press. (Original work published 2000)
  9. Feldman, E. B. (1967). Art as image and idea. Englewood Cliffs, NJ:Prentice-Hall, Inc.
  10. Fiore, A. M., & Kimle, P. A. (1997). Understanding aesthetics for the merchandising & design professional. New York: Fairchild Publications.
  11. Geczy, A., & Karaminas, V. (2012). Fashion and art: Critical crossovers. In A. Geczy & V. Karaminas (Eds.), Fashion and art (pp. 1-12). London, NY: Berg.
  12. Hamilton, J. A. (1987). Dress as a cultural sub-system: A unifying metatheory for clothing and textiles. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 6(1), 1-7. https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X8700600101
  13. Hollander, A. (1993). Seeing through clothes. Berkeley: University of California Press.
  14. Kaufman, D. A. (2012). Interpretation and the “Investigative” concept of criticism. Journal of the Theoretical Humanities, 17(1), 3-11.
  15. Kim, M. J. (2004). 복식미를 보는 시각 - 복식미학 강의 1 [Perspectives for dress beauty - lecture on aesthetics in dress I]. Seoul: Kyomunsa.
  16. Kim, S. B. (1998). Is fashion art?. Fashion Theory, 2(1), 51-71. https://doi.org/10.2752/136270498779754515
  17. Lee, J. T. (2004). Rethinking fashion: Fashion, art and the anthropology of art - a case of the Vivienne Westwood exhibition at the V&A - . International Journal of Costume, 4, 131-144.
  18. Lee, Y. Y. (2006). Methodological approaches to aesthetic research on dress - Focused on a model for dress criticism -. Journal of the Korean Home Economics, 44(11), 35-42.
  19. Miller, S. (2007). Fashion as art; is fashion art?. Fashion Theory, 11(1), 25-40. https://doi.org/10.2752/136270407779934551
  20. Negrin, L. (2012). Aesthetics: fashion and aesthetics - a fraught relationship. In A. Geczy & V. Karaminas (Eds.), Fashion and art (pp. 43-54). London, NY: Berg.
  21. Park, H. R. (2007). 미술감상과 미술비평 교육[Art appreciation and art criticism]. Seoul: SigongArt.
  22. Saisselin, R. G. (1959). From Baudelaire to Christian Dior: The poetics of fashion. Journal of Aesthetics and Art Criticism, 18(1), 110-115.
  23. Sibley, F. (1959). Aesthetic Concepts. Philosophical Review, 68(4), 421-450. https://doi.org/10.2307/2182490
  24. Sproles, G. (1985). Behavioral science theories of fashion. In M. R. Solomon (Ed.). The psychology of fashion (pp. 55-70). New York: Lexington.
  25. Steele, V. (2012). Fashion. In A. Geczy & V. Karaminas (Eds.), Fashion and art (pp. 13-28). London, NY: Berg.
  26. Taylor, M. (2005). Culture transition: Fashion's cultural dialogue between commerce and art. Fashion Theory, 9(4), 445-460. https://doi.org/10.2752/136270405778051112
  27. Troy, N. (2012). Art. In A. Geczy & V. Karaminas (Eds.), Fashion and art (pp. 29-42). London, NY: Berg.
  28. Vishmidt, M. (2008). The cultural logic of criticality. Journal of Visual Arts Practice, 7(3), 253-269. https://doi.org/10.1386/jvap.7.3.253_1
  29. Wilson, E. (1987). Adorned in dreams. Berkeley: University of California Press.
  30. Zelenko, L. S. (1981). Is fashion art?. American Artist, 12, 87-88.