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출토복식의 보수방법에 관한 연구: 대전 목달동 출토 여산송씨 출토복식을 중심으로

A Study on the Restoration Methods of the Excavated Costume: Focus on Excavated Costumes of Yeosan Song's Family at Mokdal-dong in Daejeon

  • Ha, Shinhye (Department of Clothing & Textiles, Pusan National University) ;
  • Kwon, Youngsuk (Department of Clothing & Textiles, Pusan National University)
  • 투고 : 2013.04.11
  • 심사 : 2013.05.28
  • 발행 : 2013.06.20

초록

본 연구의 목적은 실질적인 출토복식의 보수를 통해서 보수방법의 합리적인 방안을 모색하는데 있다. 출토복식의 경우 유기물이라는 특징으로 인해 출토되는 순간 이미 위약한 상태이므로 출토복식에 대한 상태를 철저히 조사한 후 가능한 물리적 힘을 가하지 않는 방법으로 최소한의 보수만을 진행하였다. 그리고 다음과 같은 과정으로 보수하였다. 보수는 출토복식의 상태에 따라 보수 가능한 것을 분류하여 출토복식 직물의 상태를 고려하여 최대한 안정하게 적용시켰다. 보수용 실의 경우는 강도가 약한 정련한 얇은 주아사의 실을 뽑아서 사용하거나 광열화시킨 명주실을 사용하였다. 보수용 직물은 직물의 종류에 따라 셀룰로오스 계 직물은 면직물을 견직물은 주아사나 명주를 정련하여 사용하였으며 일부는 비슷한 색을 내기위해 오리나무 염색과 감 염색을 하였고 방충 방균 처리를 위해 정향으로 염색한 천을 사용하여 보수하였다. 보수의 방법은 손상형태 및 복식의 구성양식에 따라 구분하여 실시하였다. 보수의 바느질법은 시침질, 홈질, 박음질, 공그르기, 감침질의 방법을 사용하여 훼손 부위와 상태에 적합한 바느질법을 선택하였다.

The purpose of this study is to find the reasonable plan for the restoration method through the practical repair of excavated costume. The minimal repair only without adding the physical force as far as possible after investigating the state of excavated costume has been progressed in case of excavated costume since it is already degraded and weak due to the characteristics of organic matter at the moment when it is excavated. Moreover, it has been restored as the following course; The restoration has been applied according to the state of excavated costume with the maximum stability by classifying items capable of being restored considering the fabric state of excavated costume. The drawn thread from the weak in strength and the refined thread of the Juasa(simple gauze) or the light degraded silk thread has been used in case of thread for restoration. The cotton fabrics has been used in the fabric of cellulose system, the Juasa or the silk has been used in the silk depending on the kind of fabric in connection with the support fabric, some parts have been dyed with Alnus firma fruit and the persimmon, has been repaired by using the dyed fabric with the clove for the purpose of mothproof-antibacterial treatment. The method to repair has been carried out by classifying according to the state of damage and the way of formation of costume. The needlework method suitable for the part and state of damage by using the basting, the broad-stitching, backstitch, the blind stitch and the hemming stitch in connection with the needlework method for restoration.

키워드

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