Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회지)

The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Expression Types and Aesthetic Characteristics of Space Directing at Chanel Fashion Shows

Chanel의 패션쇼에 나타난 공간 연출의 표현 유형과 미적 특성

  • Kim, Jang-Hyeon (Dept. of Fashion Design, Graduate School of Chung-Ang University) ;
  • Kim, Young-Sam (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, College of Arts, Chung-Ang University)
  • 김장현 (중앙대학교 일반대학원 패션디자인) ;
  • 김영삼 (중앙대학교 예술대학 의류학과)
  • Received : 2013.06.19
  • Accepted : 2013.08.19
  • Published : 2013.08.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

This study considers types of expression and examines aesthetic characteristics by analyzing images expressed through space directing at Chanel Fashion Shows. The conclusions of this study are as follows. The expression types on space directing at Chanel Fashion Shows are what is presented by distributing huge objects associated with Fashion Shows at the center or back of the stage, integrating several detailed decorative elements while maintaining the morphological characteristics of the runway in a linear form, and utilizing an inartificial place or newly forming the whole stage. The symbolism characteristic was first indicated for the aesthetic characteristics on space directing at Chanel Fashion Shows. Symbolism is indicated through the identification of an implicit meaning towards a specific object. The symbolism was highlighted utilizing elements or stories that have a deep association with Chanel. Second, the characteristic of ecology was expressed through the recognition of the importance of the ecological environment by escaping the harmful practices of civilization such as environmental disasters and human alienation. The expression of visual ecology was emphasized utilizing themes related to environmental disasters or reviving the space of primitive nature. Third, the characteristic of fantasy was shown to express thoughts that originated from the human yearning for the ideal world contrary to an incomplete society. Fantasy was created by the inaccessible object in reality and a change in spatial structure. Fourth, the characteristics of amusement expressed pleasure, which is the instinctive desire truly immanent in a human being. It was natural amusement, which was advocated as freedom through the integration of neutrality, integrating either diverse elements (which are naturally recognized in our daily life) into Fashion Shows or amusement, which expressed newness through utilizing unusual objects in Fashion Shows.

Keywords

References

  1. A fantasy factory. (2010, April). Bazaar Korea, pp. 220-221.
  2. Baudot, F. (1999). A century of fashion. London: Thames & Hudson.
  3. Baudot, F. (2002). Chanel (K. W. Park, Trans.). Busan: Norano Publishing. Co. (Original work published 1996)
  4. Blanks, T. (2012, October 2). Spring 2013 ready-to-wear Chanel. Style. Retrieved March 21, 2013, from http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2013RTW-CHANEL
  5. Chanel ad for haute couture show fall 2006. (2007, March 23). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMe4G0-RRUc
  6. Chanel autumn winter 2004 2005 Milan 3 of 4 pret a porter woman. (2013, January 10). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9tJcwVy6CQ
  7. Chanel autumn winter 2004 2005 Paris 1 of 4 haute couture. (2013, February 5). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yl9N5Vx5TGk
  8. Chanel autumn winter 2005 2006 Paris full show. (2012, October 26). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VeiHrk3wd0
  9. Chanel fall winter 2013-14. (2013, April 14). Youtube. Retrieved April 30, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hr1YJjq0zGII
  10. Chanel - fall winter 2011 2012 full fashion show. (2011, September 6). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYMWm31L9as
  11. Chanel fall 2007 fashion show. (2011, August 23). Youtube. Retrieve March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNWU9TG9eps
  12. Chanel fall/winter 12/13 fashion show. (2012, March 11). Myfacehunter. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://www.myfacehunter.com/2012/03/chanel-fallwinter-1213-fashionshow.html
  13. Chanel fall/winter 2006 - Part 1. (2008, April 26). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=46Mo0inv8kU
  14. Chanel "Haute couture" fall/winter fashion show. (2004, July 7). Scanpix. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://scanpix.no/spWebApp/preview.action?search.offset=81&search.rid=3051865&search.rbase=CORBISRED&search.previewNumResults=108&search.tabId=editorial&search.searchId=1630840509&search.searchString=chanel+2004+fashion+show
  15. Chanel "Haute couture" spring/summer 2005 collection. (2005, January 25). Scanpix. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://scanpix.no/spWebApp/preview.action?search.offset=85&-search.rid=2996646&search.rbase=CORBISRED&search.previewNumResults=229&search.tabId=editorial&search.searchId=1402844339&search.searchString=chanel+2005+fashion+show
  16. Chanel-haute Couture-automne-hiver 2012-2013 full show. (2012, September 17). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOCJUbsDtCY
  17. Chanel haute couture printemps ete 2011. (2011, January 30). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Tq5bEs4QNY
  18. Chanel haute couture SS 2012 PFW. (2012, May 6). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juft39n1qmU
  19. Chanel: Runway design-2006 S/S haute couture. (2012, July 16). Eldestandonly. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://eldestandonly.com/2012/07/16/chanel-runway-design/
  20. Chanel: Runway design-2007 F/W haute couture. (2012, July 16). Eldestandonly. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://eldestandonly.com/2012/07/16/chanel-runway-design/
  21. Chanel: Runway design-2007 S/S haute couture. (2012, July 16). Eldestandonly. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://eldestandonly.com/2012/07/16/chanel-runway-design/
  22. Chanel: Runway design-2008 F/W ready to wear. (2012, July 16). Eldestandonly. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://eldestandonly.com/2012/07/16/chanel-runway-design/
  23. Chanel: Runway design-2009 F/W ready to wear. (2012, July 16). Eldestandonly. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://eldestandonly.com/2012/07/16/chanel-runway-design/
  24. Chanel: Runway design-2009 S/S ready to wear. (2012, July 16). Eldestandonly. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://eldestandonly.com/2012/07/16/chanel-runway-design/
  25. Chanel spring summer 2004 Paris 1 of 4 pret a porter woman. (2012, December 28). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nH9DE9gogno
  26. Chanel spring summer 2005 4 of 4 Paris pret a porter. (2013, February 13). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eU7NSPVa65w
  27. Chanel spring summer 2010 full fashion show part 2. (2010, June 1). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http:// www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1WRYu8UdfU
  28. Chanel spring-summer 2013 haute couture show. (2013, January 23). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http:// www.youtube.com/watch?v=8XqTkOpVuI4
  29. Chanel spring 2006 fashion show. (2011, August 18). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=Hak1ICJF23A
  30. Chanel spring 2007 fashion show. (2011, August 23). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=eNlXlS1ktKI
  31. Chanel's fall winter 2011/2012 haute couture, Grand palais, Paris. (2011, July 7). Youtube. Retrieved march 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYdMq4uIbf0
  32. Change surreality to reality. (2012, June). W Korea, p. 72.
  33. Choi, H. J., & Shin, Y. O. (2008). The effects of the components of a fashion show on viewing satisfaction. The Journal of Fashion Business, 12(1), 45-62.
  34. Chun, H. J. (2009). Design of a pistil and a stamen as space presentation: On the basis of plastic principle according to visual and sensory features. Unpublished master's thesis, Sungkyunkwan University, Seoul.
  35. Defile haute couture automne-hiver 2005-6 Chanel. (2012, December 26). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8O7pzkUYa9w
  36. Defile haute couture automne-hiver 2008-9 Chanel. (2012, December 16). Youtube. Retrieve March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ESjcR7-hxWE
  37. Defile haute couture automne-hiver 2009-10 Chanel. (2012, December 16). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdB0tn0Lixk
  38. Defile haute couture automne-hiver 2010-11 Chanel. (2012, December 16). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SSxGpA-oPvE
  39. Defile haute couture printemps-ete 2008 Chanel. (2012, December 16). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CyIC8HNZeyc
  40. Defile haute couture printemps-ete 2009 Chanel. (2012, December 16). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPQfn19e1fI
  41. Defile haute couture printemps-ete 2010 Chanel. (2012, December 16). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3Es7hzQR9E
  42. Defile pret-a-porter automne-hiver 2010-11 Chanel. (2012, December 17). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ljGmBTR61w4
  43. Defile pret-a-porter printemps-ete 2008 Chanel "Nuits d'Ete". (2012, December 18). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VEcQnQkFI2k
  44. Defile pret-a-porter printemps-ete 2011 Chanel. (2012, November 13). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http:// www.youtube.com/watch?v=KAx9d9e6zUo
  45. Diehl, M. E. (1976). How to produce a fashion show. New York: Fairchild Publications.
  46. Duggan, G. G. (2001). The greatest show on earth: A look at contemporary fashion shows and their relationship to performance art. Fashion Theory, 5(3), 243-270. https://doi.org/10.2752/136270401778960883
  47. English, B. (2011). Fashion: the 50 most influential fashion designers of all time (J. E. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Misul Mun-hwa. (Original work published 2009)
  48. Essence Korean dictionary (6th ed.). (2013). Paju: Minjungseorim Co.
  49. Everett, J. C., & Swanson, K. K. (1996). Guide to producing a fashion show. New York: Fairchild Publications.
  50. Farbridge, M. H. (1970). Studies in biblical and semitic symbolism (The library of biblical studies). New York: KTAV Publishing House, Inc.
  51. Fashion dictionary. (1999). Seoul: Kyomunsa.
  52. Firth, R. (1973). Symbols, public and private. New York: Cornell University Press.
  53. Ha, J. S. (1994). 현대 패션에 표현되는 유희성 [Amusement expressed in contemporary fashion]. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 22, 71-83.
  54. Han, C. M. (1988). A study on the trend-analysis of Korean fashion shows. Unpublished master's thesis, Sookmyung Women's University, Seoul.
  55. Harvey, J. (1995). Men in black. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press.
  56. Hwang, H. M. (1999). 나도 fashion show 연출가 [I am fashion show director]. Seoul: Jungju.
  57. Kim, J. A., Rhie, J. M., & Jang, Y. S. (2010). A study on artimages applied to elements of space design as a visual motif: From the viewpoint of "-graph" and "iconology". The Journal of the Korean Society of Floral Art & Design, 22, 203-225.
  58. Kim, J. H., & Kim, Y. S. (2013). 샤넬의 패션쇼 공간 연출에 나타난 미적 특성 [Aesthetic characteristics in Space Production of CHANEL Fashion Shows]. Proceedings of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Spring Conference, Korea, 196.
  59. Kim, S. B., & Lee, K. H. (2010). A study on classification and formative characteristics of eco fashion design. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 12(5), 555-563. https://doi.org/10.5805/KSCI.2010.12.5.555
  60. Kim, S. H. (2012). Research on the space construction expression characteristic of fashion show stage design due to modeling principle. Unpublished master's thesis, Sungkyunkwan University, Seoul.
  61. Kim, S. Y. (2006). The esthetic characteristics in Chanel's haute couture design. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 14(5), 755-765.
  62. Kim, S. Y. (2012). A study of cut-out designs in contemporary fashion. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 20(1), 36-48. https://doi.org/10.7741/rjcc.2012.20.1.036
  63. Ku, Y. S., & Hur, J. H. (2000). Comparision of fashion show effectiveness perception as a tool of sales promotion between consumers and sponsors. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 2(2), 159-168.
  64. Lee, J. J., & Park, S. M. (2011). 패션, 문화를 말하다 [Fashion is culture]. Seoul: Yekyong Publishing. Co.
  65. Leutrat, J. L. (2002). Vie des fantomes. Le fantastique au cinema [Fantasy in cinema] (K. O. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Dongmunsun Publishing. Co. (Original work published 1995)
  66. Lipovetsky, G. (1999). L'empire de l'ephemere [The empire of fashion] (D. J. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Munye Publishing. Co. (Original work published 1987)
  67. Mower, S. (2010, March 9). Fall 2010 ready-to-wear Chanel. Style. Retrieved March 21, 2013, from http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2010RTW-CHANEL
  68. Park, J. E. (2011). Paris self travel. Seoul: Sangsang Publishing. Co.
  69. Rottensteiner, F. (1978). The fantasy book: The ghostly, the gothic, the magical, the unreal. New York: Colier Books.
  70. Shin, H. S. (1992). 초현실주의: 예술 각 분야에 나타난 모범 정신과 그 한국적 수용 [Surrealism: Korean acceptance and exemplary spirit in artistic each field]. Seoul: Donga Publishing. Co.
  71. Shin, Y. O. (2005). Analysis of the characteristics and preference of fashion event spectators: Focused on a fashion show. Unpublished master's thesis, Paichai University, Daejeon.
  72. Song, M. J., & Yang, S. H. (1992). The study of exoticism in western costume. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 18, 291-306.
  73. Song, S. W. (2012, May 18). Karl Lagerfeld. Navercast. Retrieved April 22, 2013, from http://navercast.naver.com/contents.nhn?rid=135&contents_id=8583&category_type=series
  74. Spring-summer 2012 ready-to-wear show Chanel. (2011, November 8). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLw-hozWzpc
  75. Trailer of Chanel spring-summer 2013 show. (2012, October 5). Youtube. Retrieved March 17, 2013, from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bDZ58nWb2I
  76. Troxell, M. D., & Stone, E. (1981). Fashion merchandising, (3rd ed.). New York: McGraw-Hill Book. Co.
  77. Wallach, J. (1998). Chanel : Her style and her life (1st ed.). New York: Nan A. Talese.
  78. Yoo, J. E. (2011). A study on the floral art & design in fashion show stages: Focusing on visual perception principles of Gestalt. Journal of the Korean Society of Floral Art & Design, 24, 53-72.
  79. Yun, S. R., & Lee, J. J. (2001). A case study on fashion show stage setting. Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion Design, 1(1), 53-76.
  80. 2004 S/S ready to wear Chanel. (2003, October). Style. Retrieved April 10, 2013, from http://www.style.co.kr/collection/coll_view.asp?f_name=SearchDesigner&menu_id=01010100&s_type=1&s_code=1&d_code=23
  81. 2007 F/W ready to wear Chanel. (2007, March). Style. Ret-rieved April 10, 2013, from http://www.style.co.kr/collection/coll_view.asp?f_name=SearchDesigner&menu_id=01010100&s_type=1&s_code=14&d_code=23
  82. 2008 F/W haute couture Chanel. (2008, July). Style. Retrieved April 10, 2013, from http://www.style.co.kr/collection/coll_view.asp?f_name=&page=1&p_page=1&menu_id=01010200&s_type=2&s_code=21&c_code=&d_code=23&v_type=&v_mode=
  83. 2010 F/W haute couture Chanel. (2010, July). Style. Retrieved April 10, 2013, from http://www.style.co.kr/collection/coll_view.asp?f_name=&page=1&p_page=1&menu_id=01010200&s_type=2&s_code=45&c_code=&d_code=23&v_type=&v_mode=
  84. 2011 F/W haute couture Chanel. (2011, July). Style. Retrieved April 10, 2013, from http://www.style.co.kr/collection/coll_view.asp?f_name=&page=1&p_page=1&menu_id=01010200&s_type=2&s_code=54&c_code=&d_code=23&v_type=&v_mode=
  85. 2011 S/S haute couture Chanel. (2011, January). Style. Retrieved April 10, 2013, from http://www.style.co.kr/collection/ coll_view.asp?f_name=&page=1&p_page=1&menu_id=01010200&s_type=2&s_code=50&c_code=&d_code=23&v_type=&v_mode=
  86. 2012 F/W ready to wear Chanel. (2012, March). Style. Retrieved April 10, 2013, from http://www.style.co.kr/collection/coll_view.asp?f_name=&page=1&p_page=1&menu_id=01010100&s_type=1&s_code=60&c_code=&d_code=23&v_type=&v_mode=

Cited by

  1. The Expressive Characteristics of Fashion Installation in Henrik Vibskov Collection vol.65, pp.6, 2015, https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2015.65.6.133
  2. Relationship characteristics of intermedia and fashion show in the Chanel collection vol.24, pp.3, 2016, https://doi.org/10.7741/rjcc.2016.24.3.367
  3. Performance Costumes and Stage Direction Characteristics Shown in the Nouvelle Danse Work - Focused on the Philippe Decouflé's choreography work and costume design of Philippe Guillotel - vol.65, pp.5, 2015, https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2015.65.5.126