Continuity and Discontinuity of the Neoclassic Style in Early Twentieth Century Fashion Modernism

20세기 초 모더니즘 패션에 나타난 신고전주의 양식의 연속성과 불연속성 -형식의 명료성을 중심으로-

  • Ham Youn-Ja (Dept. of Fashion Design, Dong-Eui University) ;
  • Kim Min-Ja (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Seoul National University)
  • Published : 2006.05.01

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to understand continuity and discontinuity of the neoclassic style in early twentieth century fashion modernism. Researching relations in fashion between eighteenth to nineteenth century and twentieth century, the theory of 'linked solution' suggested by Kubler and Broadsky has been accepted. The results of this study are as follows: In early twentieth century fashion, continuity of the neoclassic style is considered as presentation of geometric form based on anatomical truth of the human body and moderation of decoration. Also simple construction to present practical purpose of the dress in honesty were continued. On the other hand, discontinuity of the style is found in the imitation of men's classic tailored suits and standardization of sizes and styles. These are considered to reflect such early twentieth century sociocultural contexts as equality of the sexes and mechanical aesthetics. Hopefully this study will contribute to the broadening of insight in fashion connecting traditions.

Keywords

References

  1. Nietzsche, F. W. 저, 곽복록 역 (2000), 비극의 탄생. 범우사, pp. 29-48
  2. 깅민자 (1998), 20세기 패션에 나타난 모더니즘과 포스트모더니즘에 대한 연구(I), 복식, 37호, pp. 109-111
  3. Hollander, A. (1995). Sex and Suit: The evolution of modern dress. New York: Kodansha America. Inc., p.85
  4. Summerson J. 저, 조희철 외 역 (2002), 건축의 고전적 언어. 태림문화사, p. 106
  5. Brodsky. J. (1980). Continuity and discontinuity in style: A problem in art historical methodology. The Journal of Aesthetic and Art Criticism. 39(1), pp. 27-37 https://doi.org/10.2307/429916
  6. Genova. J. (1979). The significance of style. The Journal of Aesthetic and Art Criticism, 37(3). pp. 352-361 https://doi.org/10.2307/430789
  7. Gombrich, E. H. (1968). International encyclopedia of social science. New York: M. Macmillan Co., pp. 352-361
  8. Ackerman, J. S. (1967). A theory of style. aesthetic inquiry. Belmont: Dickenson Publishing Company Inc., pp. 54-66
  9. Ackerman, J. S. (1967). A theory of style. aesthetic inquiry. Belmont: Dickenson Publishing Company Inc., pp. 54-66
  10. 竹內敏雄 저, 안영길 외 역 (2003), 미학 예술학 사전. 미진사, p. 291
  11. 竹內敏雄 저, 안영길 외 역 (2003), 미학 예술학 사전. 미진사, p. 283
  12. Tiryakian, E. (1968). International encyclopedia of the social science, 16. New York: Macmillan and Free Press, pp. 177-186
  13. Panofsky, E. 저, 이한순 외 역 (2000). 조형예술 작풍의 기술과 내용 해석, 도상학과 도상해석학, 사계절, pp, 112-136
  14. Ackerman, J. S. (1967). A theory of style. aesthetic inquiry. Belmont: Dickenson Publishing Company Inc., pp. 54-66
  15. Ackerman, J. S. (1967). A theory of style. aesthetic inquiry. Belmont: Dickenson Publishing Company Inc., pp. 54
  16. Ackerman, J. S. (1967). A theory of style. aesthetic inquiry. Belmont: Dickenson Publishing Company Inc., pp. 54-57
  17. Ackerman, J. S. (1967). A theory of style. aesthetic inquiry. Belmont: Dickenson Publishing Company Inc., pp. 54-57
  18. Kubler, G. (1962). The shape of time-remarks on the history of things Michigan: Yale University Press, pp. 8-10
  19. Brodsky. J. (1980). Continuity and discontinuity in style: A problem in art historical methodology. The Journal of Aesthetic and Art Criticism. 39(1), pp. 27-37 https://doi.org/10.2307/429916
  20. Lowe, J. D. G., Lowe. E. D. (1982). Cultural pattern and process: A study of stylistic change in women's dress, American Anthropologist. 84(3). pp. 521-544 https://doi.org/10.1525/aa.1982.84.3.02a00010
  21. Ackerman, J. S. (1967). A theory of style. aesthetic inquiry. Belmont: Dickenson Publishing Company Inc., pp. 61
  22. Hamilton, J. A. (1988). Dress as a cultural sub-system: A unifying metatheory for clothing and textiles. C.T.R.J., 6(1), pp. 1-7
  23. Roach, M., & Musa, K. (1980), New perspective on the history of western dress, New York: A Handbook, pp. 27-34
  24. Hauser, A. 저, 염무응 외 역 (2002), 문학과 예술의 사회사 3. 창작과 비평, p. 182
  25. 손세관 (1988), 신고전주의 건축의 형태적 특성과 그 현대적 의미, 건축문화, 8805, p. 101
  26. 이성훈 (1988). 신고전주의 예술의 미학이론. 건축문화, 8805, p. 98
  27. 'Voltaire'. The columbia encyclopedia. 6th edition. from http://www.bartlebY.com/65
  28. Hauser, A. 저, 염무응 외 역 (2002), 문학과 예술의 사회사 3. 창작과 비평, p. 175-176
  29. Hauser, A. 저, 염무응 외 역 (2002), 문학과 예술의 사회사 3. 창작과 비평, p. 375
  30. Cassire, E. 저, 박완규 역 (1995). 계몽주의 철학, 민음사. pp. 376-377
  31. Bohen, M. 저, 천미수 역 (2000). 패션의 역사. 한길아트, p. 208
  32. Hollander, A. (1995). Sex and Suit: The evolution of modern dress. New York: Kodansha America. Inc., p.119
  33. Howard, M. 저, 차하순 외 역 (2000). 20세기의 역사. 가지 않은 길, pp. 40-50
  34. Rouse, E. 저. 이재한 역(2003). 현대사회와 패션: 코르셋에서 펑크까지, 시지락, pp.332-371
  35. Rouse, E. 저. 이재한 역(2003). 현대사회와 패션: 코르셋에서 펑크까지, 시지락, pp.364-365
  36. Evans, S. M. 저, 조지형 역 (1998). 자유를 위한 탄생-미국여성의 역사. 이화여자대학교 출판부, pp. 288-290
  37. Buxbaum, G. (1999), Icons of fashion-the 20th century, New York: Prestel, p. 32
  38. Sparke. P. 저, 이순혁 역 (1997), 20세기의 디자인과 문화. 까치, p. 69
  39. Pendergast, S. (1997), Contemporary designers, Detroit:St. James Press, p. 193
  40. Buxbaum, G. (1999), Icons of fashion-the 20th century, New York: Prestel, p. 44