• 복식
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• 제56권4호
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• pp.148-159
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to understand continuity and discontinuity of the neoclassic style in early twentieth century fashion modernism. Researching relations in fashion between eighteenth to nineteenth century and twentieth century, the theory of 'linked solution' suggested by Kubler and Broadsky has been accepted. The results of this study are as follows: In early twentieth century fashion, continuity of the neoclassic style is considered as presentation of geometric form based on anatomical truth of the human body and moderation of decoration. Also simple construction to present practical purpose of the dress in honesty were continued. On the other hand, discontinuity of the style is found in the imitation of men's classic tailored suits and standardization of sizes and styles. These are considered to reflect such early twentieth century sociocultural contexts as equality of the sexes and mechanical aesthetics. Hopefully this study will contribute to the broadening of insight in fashion connecting traditions.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.382-396
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the transition of glamour style expressed in modern fashion throughout the history. The glamour style in modern fashion was categorized into five periods which are Hollywood glamour(H), Feminine glamour(F), Rich glamour(R), Decadent glamour(D), and Trash glamour(T). These categories were analyzed and compared in the viewpoint of aesthetic values deduced on the previous study. As a method of analysis, literature study and case study through the publications in aesthetics, history and preceding theses were used. The results of analysis are: Ostentatious luxury was suggested by extravagance of the movie star in H, the splendid American lifestyle in F, conspicuous consumption in R, fin de siecle bad taste in D and self-assured exposure in T. Mysterious idolatry was studied as exaggerated goddesshood of the movie star in H. It was expanded to celebrities including fashion models, television actresses, pop singers and young couture designers in the other periods. Artificial sensuality was originated from the femme fatale image of the courtesan as well as the traditional femininity of Victorian era in H. It was developed through exaggerated hourglass silhouette of the wife dressing in F. But an aggressiveness in R, a hyper-sexual femme fatale in D, an independent and defiant image of the showgirl in T were observed. Playful queerness stood out clearly by the fin de siecle phenomena. Though it was embodied in sexual perversive subculture, it emerged as hi fashion by young designers in the late R and became a crucial aesthetic value throughout D and T. It is more connected with the origins of glamour which arouses sexual ambiguity, crudity, aggressiveness and death. The continuity and discontinuity of the glamour style based on the theory of 'linked solution' were also analyzed.

• 한국음향학회지
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• 제18권7호
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• pp.17-22
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• 1999

본 논문에서는 발화된 문장으로부터 운율 경계 강도를 효과적으로 예측하기 위해 LDA와 tri-tone 모델을 혼합한 방법을 제안하였다. 이 방법은 기존의 LDA 방법을 사용하여 음절과 휴지기의 길이 정보를 운율경계강도 예측에 적용하고 피치정보를 벡터양자화에 적용하여 tri-tone이란 개념을 도입한 혼합형 모형이다. 제안된 방법은 주어진 200문장의 운율경계 강도를 예측하는 실험에서 72%의 정확성을 나타내었다.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.115-125
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• 2006

The study on plane composition in clothing was focused mainly on woven wear earlier but its application has been reaching the knit wear. This study is confined to the utilization with geometrical linear pattern in the modern apparel. The work here intends to grasp the plane structure found in both woven wear and knit wear and, in particular, to understand the aesthetics of fashion. The modern flat patterned clothing has been affected by the oriental style or postmodernism in view of social and cultural aspect while its fabric material and expression method shows the diversity in terms of industrial and technical aspect. It can be characterized as several outstanding patterns: the geometrical pattern in structure, the linear pattern with seam line and 2-dimensional plane pattern without seam line, and the flexible silhouette integrated into one single shape with human body unlike the traditional apparel The aesthetics of fashion in modern flat patterned clothing can be divided into such category as the organically spatial change, the re-creation of tradition and the non-format framework. The organically spatial change shows the geometrical formation in clothes due to change in dimension, where the organically changing uniformity and generosity appears as the dimension progresses. The timeless without any difference of up and down, left and right, and inside and outside and the discontinuity due to limitless spatial change are also imbedded. The re-creation of tradition tells the reshaped spirits of old tradition by integrating and modifying the hereditary features in the old customed clothing into modern clothing. The modern flat patterned clothing implies the contemporaneousness or the frame through which the old and modern cultures may be shared and indicates the re-creation of the past and uniformity. The non-format framework contains the uncertainty in meaning and it doesn't have any certain standards. As both the apparel and the human body with this style aim at the open space, the numerous contingencies are realized.

• 복식
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• 제63권3호
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• pp.61-77
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the concept and characteristics of parody, and consider how parody was reflected in Thom Browne's collection centering on the expressive method. Thus, this study will attempt to shed new light on the creative possibility and artistic value of parody in men's fashion design. The methods are as follows. The ideas, characteristics and expressive methods that represent parody was considered by referencing various related books, papers, art critiques, etc. Based on this theoretical study, a case of Thom Browne's collection (Thom Browne menswear: 2004 S/S-2012 F/W) was observed to find types of parody, attributes and significance. Photo material was collected through websites such as www.thombrowne.com, www.style.com, etc. The type and characteristics of parody expressed in Thom Browne's collection was considered in the following aspects: imitative parody, critical parody and pastiche parody. Through such consideration, it was possible to realize the fashion designs that adapt Thom Browne's parody are very deliberate and calculative. The designs convey exaggeration, destruction of form, emphasis on discontinuity, transition into attraction, aesthetics of unfamiliarity, characteristic aspects of irrationality and contradiction. Through the study, it was possible to see Thom Browne's collection with parody adaptation shaping new creativity and broadening formative aspects in fashion design.

• 한국지구과학회지
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• 제44권6호
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• pp.643-654
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• 2023

서필리핀분지는 필리핀해판 서쪽 그리고 유라시아판에 위치한 한반도의 남쪽에 위치하여 류큐해구를 경계로 두고 있는 해양 분지이다. 이 분지는 전체 필리핀 판의 절반정도의 크기이며 류큐해구, 필리핀해구를 경계로 유라시아판 하부로 섭입 중이다. 이 분지의 25-50%가 이미 섭입되었고, 분지 남쪽의 경우 연구가 거의 이루어지지 않아 현재까지 분지의 진화과정 해석에 대하여 크게 논란 중에 있다. 이러한 논란을 해소하기 위해 서필리핀분지의 진화과정을 고해상도 다중빔음향측심자료 분석을 통해 확인하였다. 판의 확장과정에서 생성되는 비변환불연속 구조(Non-Transform Discontinuity)는 일반적으로 중앙해령과 수직한 방향으로 생성되는 변환단층 경계와 유사하지만 지각아래 맨틀대류 변화에 의한 마그마공급 불균형으로 해령분절에 변위가 생기며 만들어진다. 고해상도 해저지형도를 제작하여 분석한 결과, 해령전파에 의한 비변환불연속 구조가 크게 발달한 것과 전반적인 심해언덕의 주향이 해령에서 멀어질수록 E-W방향에서 NNW-SSE방향으로 변화하는 것을 확인하였다. 분지 확장 초기에 아마미-산카쿠 분지가 현재의 위치에서 90도 시계 방향으로 회전된 상태로 팔라우분지와 인접해 있다가 분지의 확장이 시작되면서 민다나오 파쇄대를 경계로 팔라우분지와 분리되어 반시계 방향의 회전열개로 확장을 한 것으로 여겨진다. 또한 분지 내 비변환불연속 구조는 ENE-WSW 방향에서 N-S 방향으로 급격한 확장방향의 변화와 동시에 필리핀해판의 드리프트(drift)로 인한 갑작스러운 마그마 공급 변화로 형성될 수 있음을 지시한다. 팔라우분지는 WPB의 남쪽 일부로 간주되었으나, 최근의 연구에 따르면 독립적인 시스템으로 확장한 것으로 밝혀졌다. 퇴적층과 지각의 두께 등 여러 단서들이 팔라우분지가 WPB 확장 이전에 이미 존재했을 가능성을 시사하고 있으나 분지의 진화과정은 여전히 논란이 많다. 서필리핀분지와 필리핀해판의 정확한 진화과정을 이해하기 위해서 팔라우 분지의 연대와 확장 진화에 대한 연구가 필요하다. 본 연구는 고해상도 다중빔음향측심자료 분석을 통해 서필리핀분지의 진화과정에 대한 새로운 정보를 제공하였다. 이러한 정보는 서필리핀분지와 필리핀해판의 정확한 진화과정을 이해하는 데 중요한 역할을 할 것으로 기대된다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.550-563
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• 2005

These days, photoshop and illustrator program can make a fashion illustration express easily and speedily, And they can also express a feeling and sensitivity of fashion illustrator by a tool and effect more than a manual work's media. The purpose of this study was to analyze a visual expression and characteristics in fashion illustration using 2D graphics. The method of this study was to analyze the fashion illustration books using 2D graphics. The visual expressions in fashion illustration using 2D graphics were as follows: Fashion illustration was based on a sketch or photography, and used a composition, drawing, mapping, painting, and manual work's re-touching. Characteristics of visual expression were as follows: First, a image composition was showed discontinuity and heterogeneity of image, new context and composition, and allowance of reality. Second, image transform was showed image overlap, body transformation by image recomposition, and deformed transformation by vector drawing. Third, hyper-real was showed precise touching, mechanical and neutral image, omission of background and focus of an object's characteristic and information. Fourth, following a realistic expression was showed simplified color, shading, dominant view point of fashion illustrator by omission, and daily lift style. Fifth, following a pictorial expression was showed non-fixed and irregular line, natural painting, and drawing and painting by conventional pictorial media. In conclusion, a photoshop and illustrator in 2D graphics will serve as a new media far fashion illustration with a manual work. And they will not only intensify a capacity as a commercial role of fashion illustration but also present a positive motive for students learning a fashion illustration.

• Journal of Information Technology Applications and Management
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• 제28권3호
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• pp.59-75
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• 2021

This study aims to establish a foundation for autonomous driving on campus and communication of abundant university information in the HCI environment in a VR environment where college freshmen can freely travel around campus facilities. The purpose of this study is to develop a three-dimensional VR-style campus tour system to establish a media environment to provide abundant university information guidance services to freshmen in non-face-to-face situations. This study designed a three-dimensional virtual reality campus tour system to solve the problem of discontinuity in which VR360 filming space does not lead to space like reality, and to solve many problems of expertise in VR technology by constructing an integrated production environment of tour system. We aim to solve the problem of inefficiency, which requires a large amount of momentum in virtual space, by constructing a GUI that utilizes the motion of the field of view focus. The campus environment was designed as a three-dimensional virtual reality using a three-dimensional graphic design. In non-face-to-face situations, college freshmen freely transformed the HMD VR device, smartphone, FPS operation mode of the gyroscope sensor. The design elements of the three-dimensional virtual reality campus tour system were classified as ①Visualization of factual experiences, ②Continuity of space movement, ③Operation, automatic operation mode, ④Natural landscape animation, ⑤Animation according to wind direction, ⑥Actual space movement mode, ⑦Informatization of spatial understanding, ⑧GUI by experience environment, ⑨Text GUI by building, ⑩VR360, 3D360 Studio Environment, ⑪Three-dimensional virtual space coupling block module, ⑫3D360-3D Virtual Space Transmedia Zone, ⑬Transformable GUI(VR Device Dual Viewer-Gyro Sensor Full Viewer-FPS Operation Viewer) and an integrated production environment was established with each element. It is launched online (http://vautu.com/u1) by constructing a GUI for free driving mode and college information screens to adapt to college life for freshmen, and designing an environment that can be used simultaneously by current media such as PCs, Android, and iPads. Therefore, it conducted user research, held a development presentation, a forum on excellence in university innovation support projects, and applied it as a system on the website of a particular university. College freshmen will be able to experience university information directly from the web and app to the virtual reality campus environment.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.574-591
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• 2001

This study reviews the concept and characteristics of the deconstruction philosophy in order to analyze the major aspects of the fashion world called the deconstruction fashion based on the deconstruction philosophy, and analyzes the works of Jean Paul Gaultier in terms of Derrida's deconstruction theory. The scope of this research is from 1980 to present, and this study fashion on the many kinds of literature on philosophy, aesthetics and literary criticism, and the domestic and international fashion journals and magazines. The deconstructionism is the philosophical theory which denies the traditionally recognized logocentric metaphysical theory and refuses the closed world and pursues the open world, opposing the dichotomic theory which is the deep-rooted tradition of the Western philosophy. The results of analyses centering on the internal deconstruction trend expressed in the works of Jean Paul Gaultier are as follows. 1 The past style combined with the present appears in the form of the entirely new trace, not the past emotion and meaning in Gaultier's works transcending the time and space. 2 Gaultier presents the unconventional intermeaning of meanings, producing various possibilities according to the wearing method of the wearer by layering several clothes. 3. Gaultier breaks from masculinity and femininity in the intertextuality of gender, and decomposes the fixed idea of men's or ladies'wear through the design sharing bisexual text. 4. In the intertextuality of T.P.O., Gaultier presents the problem of how to wear by mixing different items through obscuring the division of the nature of time, space, and purpose. Especially Gaultier can be called the first designer who, worthy of the father of the deconstructionism, has introduced in the fashion making inner wear like outer wear. 5. In the intertextuality of coordination, Gaultier presents a new perspective of coordination through free combination and contrast, raising a question about the man-made harmony criterion and deconstructing the clothes. On the other hand, Gaultier expresses the intertextuality of the material through the heterogeneous combination of the material. 6. The decomposition trend expressed in the many works of Gaultier reflects an open mind presenting a new perspective through the distortion of the form, exaggeration, and break from the existing construction method. 7. The decentering trend in the works of Gaultier is found to deconstruct the Western-dominated elements against the background of subcultural elements, the elements borrowed from the minority race, md the Oriental culture. 8. The discontinuity clothes of Gaultier present the disordered principle of design without the uniform rules, and express the unrestrained freedom without captivation by the preconceived idea through the disruption of the dress and its ornaments just like Gaultier.

• 대중서사연구
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.175-209
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• 2020

본 논문은 일본군 '위안부'의 영화적 재현이 어떻게 일상의 영역에서, 그리고 대중의 기억 속에서 '상상력'을 촉발하고 공통의 감각과 정동을 불러일으키는가 살펴보자 한다. 일본군 '위안부' 역사는 오랫동안 망각되었다가 1990년대에 들어서야 공공 기억의 장으로 들어설 수 있었다. 이러한 전환에는 피해자들의 증언과 일본군 '위안부' 문제의 담론화를 가능하게 만든 국내외적 크로노폴리틱스(chronopolitics)가 존재한다. 이는 '시간의 정치학'으로서 일본군 '위안부' 역사의 독특한 위상을 보여주는데, 일본군 '위안부' 문제의 영화적 재현은 역사적 크로노폴리틱스와 연속적이면서도 단절적인 이중성을 보여주며 새로운 시각적 크로노폴리틱스를 드러낸다. 한국영화사의 맥락에서 일본군 '위안부' 재현의 크로노토프는 크게 4가지 국면으로 나누어 생각해 볼 수 있다. 첫째, 1990년대 이전 일본군 '위안부'의 극적 재현들, 둘째, 증언과 역사쓰기로서 1990년대 후반 다큐멘터리, 셋째, 2000년대 들어 멜로드라마적 감수성을 이끌어낸 극영화들, 넷째, 애니메이션 및 기타 장르를 포함하는 매체의 확산이다. 이들 중에서 '위안부' 문제를 대중적 극영화(fiction film)의 범주에서 표상하고 있는 첫 번째 국면과 세 번째 국면에 집중해 논의를 전개하는 것이 이 글의 목적이다. 1990년 이전의 '위안부' 극영화들이 철저히 상업영화와 대중장르의 틀을 고수하며 일본군 '위안부' 역사의 성애화를 추구했다면, 2000년대 이후의 영화들은 대중영화의 양식 속에서 다양한 시도들을 실험해보고 있다. 특히, <귀향>, <아이 캔 스피크>, <허스토리> 등과 같은 2000년대 '위안부' 극영화들의 등장은 우리가 그간 생존자들의 증언과 일본군 '위안부' 운동 등을 통해서 '많이' 알고 있다고 생각했던 이 이슈에 대하여 과연 우리가 '제대로' 알고 있는지, 이에 대한 '문화적 재현은 어떻게 가능한지' 등의 여러 문제를 제기해주고 있다. 일본군 '위안부'를 다룬 2000년대 영화적 재현의 전략들에 주목하면서, 이 글은 멜로드라마의 대중 정치학, 피해자성과 폭력의 재현, 메타기억으로서의 일본군 '위안부' 극영화 등을 논의하고자 한다. 역사적 트라우마에 대한 멜로드라마적 상상이자 메타기억으로서, '위안부' 극영화들은 일본군 '위안부' 문제가 통과해야 할 역사적, 정치적, 미학적 관문들을 보여준다. 보다 구체적으로 말하면, 최근의 극영화들에서 일본군 '위안부' 문제가 한-일 양국 간의 관계를 넘어서, 오래된 식민 구조를 해체하고자 하는 탈식민주의적 과제이자 여성운동과 인권운동이 국제적으로 연대하는 트랜스내셔널한 프로젝트로 거듭나는 방식에 이 글은 주목한다.