한국수자원학회논문집 (Journal of Korea Water Resources Association)

  • 제38권6호
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  • Pages.429-438
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  • 2005
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  • 2799-8746(pISSN)
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  • 2799-8754(eISSN)
한국수자원학회 (Korea Water Resources Association)
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불규칙파를 위한 약비선형 약분산 파랑 방정식

Weakly Nonlinear and Dispersive Wave Equations for Random Waves

  • 발행 : 2005.06.01
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초록

본 연구에서는 Boussinesq 방정식을 이용하여, 불규칙 파랑의 직접적인 해석이 가능한 한 쌍의 상미분방정식을 유도하였다. 입사파랑은 TMA(TEXEL storm, MARSEN, ARSLOE) 천해 스펙트럼을 이용하여 재현하였으며, 지배방정식은 4차 Runge-Kutta 법을 이용하여 적분하였다. 새로 유도된 파랑 방정식을 이용하여, 일정 수심을 진행하는 파랑의 비선형 에너지 교환효과를 계산하였다. 또한, 일정 경사면의 정현파형 지형을 통과하는 불규칙파랑의 특성에 관해 수치적으로 검토하였다. 비선형성이 불규칙파랑의 통과와 반사에 큰 영향을 주었다.

In this study, a couple of ordinary differential equations which can describe random waves are derived from the Boussinesq equations. Incident random waves are generated by using the TMA(TEXEL storm, MARSEN, ARSLOE) shallow-water spectrum. The governing equations are integrated with the 4-th order Runge-Kutta method. By using newly derived wave equations, nonlinear energy interaction of propagating waves in constant depth is studied. The characteristics of random waves propagate over a sinusoidally varying topography lying on a sloping beach are also investigated numerically. Transmission and reflection of random waves are considerably affected by nonlinearity.

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참고문헌

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