Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
권호 표지

The Effects and Mechanisms of Glycolic Acid on the UV-induced Skin Cell Proliferation

UV에 대한 Glycolic Acid의 피부세포증식 기전연구 및 억제효과

  • Published : 2005.09.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

Glycolic acid, an alpha-hydroxy acid derived from fruit and milk sugars, has been commonly used as a cosmetic ingredient since it was known to have photo-protective, anti-inflammatory effects, and anti-oxidant effect in UV-irradiated skin. However, little has been know about the functional role of glycolic acid on UV-induced skin cell proliferation. It was previously found that glycolic acid inhibited UV-induced skin tumor development in hairless mouse. As a possible mechanism of glycolic acid on the UV-induced skin tumor development, the ability of glycolic acid to inhibit the UVB-induced cell growth and possible mechanisms were investigated. Glycolic acid treatment attenuated the UV-induced cell proliferation and apoptotic cell death in the skin. In vitro study, glycolic acid inhibited the UVB-induced cell growth and apoptotic death through inhibiting caspase-3 activity. These results suggest that glycolic acid may exert the Inhibitory effect on the UVB-induced skin tumor development by regulating cell growth and apoptotic cell death.

Glycolic acid 는 과일과 우유 사탕수수에서 비롯되는 알파-hydroxy 산의 일종의 화장품 성분으로 UV-irradiate된 피부에서는 광보호와 항 염증효과 및 산화 방지 효과가 있는 것으로 알려져 있다. 그러나 UV자극에 의한 피부세포증식에 관하여 glycolic acid의 기능은 거의 알려진바 없다. Glycolic acid는 UV에 의한 hairless mouse의 피부에서 종양 발전을 억제한다는 것을 본 연구자 등이 규명한바 있다. 따라서 이번 연구에서는 UV에 의한 피부의 종양발생억제 효과가 glycolic acid가 UV에 의한 피부의 세포성장을 억제하기 때문인지를 연구하였다 Glycolic acid 를 처치한 피부에서 UV에 의하여 유도된 세포증식과 apoptotic cell death을 감소시켰다. In vitro 연구에서도 glycolic acid 는 UVB 에 의하여 유도된 피부 유래세포인 keratinocyte의 세포성장억제와 apoptotic cell death 및 caspase-3 활동을 억제하였다. 이 결과들은 glycolic acid가 UV에 의하여 유도된 피부종양발생 억제가 UV에 의한 대한 피부세포성장과 apoptotic cell death를 억제하는 효과에 의한 것임을 시사한다.

Keywords

References

  1. H. I. Mahler, J. A. Kulik, J. Harrell, A. Correa, F. X. Gibbons, and M. Gerrard, Effects of UV photographs, photoaging information, and use of sunless tanning lotion on sun protection behaviors, Arch Dermatol., 141(3), 373 (2005) https://doi.org/10.1001/archderm.141.3.373
  2. I. Kimber, M. Cumberbatch, R. J. Dearman, M. Bhushan, and C. E. Griffiths, Cytokines and chemokines in the initiation and regulation of epidermal langerhans cell mobilization, Br. J. Dermatol., 142, 401 (2000) https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1365-2133.2000.03349.x
  3. 지두현, 임현순, 장경애, 성환태, 여운철, 성경제, 최지호, 자외선 B 조사에 의한 사람 각질형성세포주 HaCaT세포의 Interleukin-1 $\alpha$ 생산에 미치는 1,25-Dihydroxy-vitamin $D_{3}$의 영향, 대한피부과학회지 39(2), 127 (2001)
  4. L. Zhuang, Molecular mechanism of ultraviolet-induced keratinocyte apoptosis, J. Interferon Cytokine, 20(5), 445 (2000) https://doi.org/10.1089/10799900050023852
  5. B. A. Gilchrest, A review of skin aging and its medical therapy, Br. J Dermatol., 135, 867 (1996)
  6. V. N. Sehgal, A. Luthra, and A. K. Aggarwal, Evaluation of graded strength glycolic acid (GA) facial peel: an Indian experience, J. Dermatol., 30 (10), 758(2003) https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1346-8138.2003.tb00474.x
  7. W. P. Coleman and H. J. Brody, Efficacy of lowstrength glycolic acid application in the treatment of melasma, Arch Dermatol., 139(6), 811 (2003) https://doi.org/10.1001/archderm.139.6.811-a
  8. R. Sarkar, C. Kaur, M. Bhalla, and A. J. Kanwar, The combination of glycolic acid peels with a topical reginen in the treatment of melasma in darkskinned patients:comparative study, Dermatol. Surg., 28(9), 828 (2002) https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1524-4725.2002.02034.x
  9. M. Kharfi, N. Tekaya, F. Zeglaoui, N. Ezzine, I. Mokhtar, F. Kamoun, and M. R. Kamoun, Comparative study of the efficacy and tolerance of 12% glycolic acid cream and 0.05% retinoic acid cream for polyrnophic acne, Tunis Med., 79(6), 347 (2001)
  10. A. Leonid, Activation of caspase-9 is required for UV -induced apoptosis of human keratinocytes, J. Biol. Chem., 277, 19346 (2002) https://doi.org/10.1074/jbc.M200401200
  11. T. Horikoshi, M. Matswnoto, A. Usuki, S. Igarashi, R. Hikima, H. Uchiwa, S. Hayashi, M. M. Brysk, M. Ichihashi, and Y. Funasaka, Effects of glycolic acid on desquamation-regulating proteinases in human in human stratum corneum, Exp. Dermatol., 14, 34 (2005) https://doi.org/10.1111/j.0906-6705.2005.00224.x
  12. Y. Funasaka, H. Sato, and A. Usuki, The efficacy of glycolic acid for treating wrinkles: analysis using newly developed facial imaging systems equipped with fluorescent illumination, J. Dermatol. Sci., (Suppl, 1), S53 (2001)
  13. S. K. Jeong, J. Y. Ko, T. J. Seo, K. S. Ahn, C. W. Lee, and S. H. Lee, Stimulation of epidermal calcium gradient loss and increase in TNF - $\alpha$ and IL -1 $\alpha$ expressions by glycolic acid in murine epidermis, Exp. Dermatol., 14, 571 (2005) https://doi.org/10.1111/j.0906-6705.2005.00308.x
  14. 고주연, 정세규, 이승헌, 이창우, Glycolic acid 국소도포가 무모생쥐의 표피내 사이토 카인 및 칼슘이온 기울기에 미치는 영향에 관한 연구, 대한피부과학회지, 42(3), 290 (2004)
  15. S. E. Moon, J. A. Kim, and J. K. Lee, Effect of glycolic acid on collagen gene expression in cultured human skin fibroblasts, Ann. Dermatol., 13, 92 (2001) https://doi.org/10.5021/ad.2001.13.2.92
  16. E. F. Bernstein, J. Lee, D. B. Brown, R. Yu, and E. Scott, Glycolic acid treatment increases type I collagen mRNA and hyaiuronic acid content of human skin, Dermatol. Surg., 27, 429 (2001) https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1524-4725.2001.27101.x
  17. 정세규, 김산, 이은희, 최응호, 안성구, 이승헌, 화학적박피가 피부장벽에 미치는 영향에 대한 비교연구, 대한피부과학회지, 40, 1181 (2002)
  18. T. H. Kim, E. H. Choi, Y. C. Kang, S. H. Lee, and S. K. Ahn, The effects of topical $\alpha$-hydroxyacids on the normal skin barrier of hairless mice, Br J. Dermatol., 144, 267 (2001)
  19. T. Horikoshi, M. Matsumoto, A. Usuki, S. Igarashi, R. Hikima, H. Uchiwa, S. Hayashi, M. M. Brysk, M. Ichihashi, and Y. Funasaka, Effects of glycolic acid on desquamation-regulating proteinases in human in human stratum corneum, Exp. Dermatol.. 14, 34 (2005) https://doi.org/10.1111/j.0906-6705.2005.00224.x
  20. 최응호, 김민정, 이세원, 박원석, 피부장벽에 사이토카인이 미치는 영향, 한국피부장벽학회, 4, 95 (2002)