• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.84-107
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• 2018

첨모직은 표면에 짧은 파일이 나타나는 것으로 조선시대 후기에는 첨모직 깔개를 지칭하는 용어로 채담이 사용되었으며, 20세기 초에는 융전과 단통, 양탄자 등으로 불리었다. 조선 말기 이후의 여러 문헌이나 신문기사, 그리고 각종 사진자료를 통해 첨모직 깔개가 왕실뿐만 아니라 일반인도 사용하였고 당시 국내에서 제작하였다는 것이 확인되었다. 본 연구에서는 조선 말기 이후의 첨모직 깔개 6점을 실물 조사하였는데 5점은 페르시아매듭의 컷파일이며 1점은 루프파일의 기법으로 제작되었다. 컷파일의 깔개는 크기가 가로 72~98 ${\times}$ 세로 150~156cm의 직사각형이며, 나비, 사슴, 호랑이, 그리고 십장생 등의 주 무늬를 중앙에 배치하고 卍자를 가장자리에 배치하였다. 컷파일의 소재는 지경사는 모두 면사이며 지위사는 3점은 면사, 1점은 모사, 그리고 1점은 면사와 비스코스레이온의 혼섬사이다. 지위사는 4점이 S꼬임의 실 여러 올을 합쳐 Z방향으로 합사한 실을 사용했다. 파일위사는 4~6가지의 색이 사용되었는데 홍색을 제외하고 모두 염색을 하지 않은 자연색 그대로의 모섬유가 사용되었다. 그리고 S나 Z꼬임의 모사를 2올 이상 합하여 반대방향으로 꼬임을 주었는데 굵기에 맞춰 올수를 합하였다. 깔개의 위아래 가장자리는 위사를 6올 이상 넣고 남은 지경사는 몇 올씩을 한데 묶어서 정리하였으며, 좌우 가장자리는 3올 이상의 면사를 가운데 놓고 수평으로 감아 마치 둥근 막대처럼 만들며, 가장자리에서 2~3번째 지경사를 징거서 튼튼하게 고정하였다. 루프파일은 경사방향으로 고리를 만든 경첨모직이며 지경사와 지위사는 면사, 파일경사는 모사로 추정된다. 소재의 성분 분석이 가능했던 깔개는 3점으로 파일위사는 판단이 불명한 것을 제외하고 염소와 비미종 양으로 판명되어 첨모직 깔개에 다양한 종류의 동물털이 사용되었을 가능성이 있다고 본다. 본 연구에서 조사한 6점의 깔개는 1800년대 말부터 1900년대 초에 제작되었다고 추정된다. 깔개의 정확한 제작지는 확인할 수 없었으나 당시 국내에서 첨모직 깔개를 제작하고 있다는 문헌기록과 깔개의 문양의 조형성을 고려한다면 우리나라에서 제작된 것으로 본다.

• 복식
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• 제58권10호
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• pp.65-77
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the correlation between the density, the Count and the width of cross section in 2D function through comparison the difference of simulated fabrics based on the various yarns, and to compare the 3D effect by Lay Mapping of diverse fabrics. The method of research is to weave the eight fabrics composed of cotton, linen, worsted, slender yarn, loop, $m{\acute{e}}lange$, woolen, and yarn twist with Hi-Tex program, and to practice 3D mapping with Hi-Print program. As a mapping object, the flared skirt which is a basic costume item is selected. As a result, the thickness of yarn in CAD system was fixed by the width of cross section rather than Count, especially by the width of core section not including the fluff section. The type of yarn such as cotton yarn, linen yarn, and worsted had effect on the shape of texture, but had few interrelations with dimension. In the case of 3D mapping, the textural characteristic and the dimension were presented precisely, whereas there were several limitations. First, the thickness of tissue has not been represented. Secondly, the effect of texture such as fuzzy look, loop was not expressed on the skirt outline including sideline and hemline. Thirdly, the difference of silhouette was not distinct. The common point in 2D and 3D operations is that the representation of texture is relatively accurate and that is difficult to measure and manifest of thickness, the side. For more professional digitalizing in fashion industry, above all in the domain of 3D, it must be supplement the subdivided and differentiated mapping process according to the texture, deviating from the existing analog-based organization which has to designate the form and silhouette suitable for tissue.

• 한국섬유공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국섬유공학회 2003년도 봄 학술발표회 논문집
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• pp.410-410
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• 2003

실에 2차원 혹은 3차원적인 권축변형을 부여하고 이 변형을 적절한 방법으로 고정하며 섬유간의 상호 평행성을 저하시킴으로써 벌키성과 신축성이 부여된 실을 벌크가공사(bulk textured yarn)라고 부른다. 원리적으로는 물리적 변형을 이용하여 섬유간 평행성을 저하시키며, 이를 어떠한 수단으로 고정하는 것이다. 폴리에스터 원사에 대하여 널리 사용되는 방법 중 하나로 가연가공(false twist texturing)법을 들 수 있으며, 본보에서는 가연가공 히터의 온도변화에 따른 원사의 물성 변화에 대하여 분석하고 향후 이러한 기본적인 특성과 외관특성과의 상관성 유무를 확인하고자 한다. (중략)

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권5호
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• pp.473-478
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• 2001

The newly developed cone drum twister is one of the outer surface contacting friction-twisting devices in false-twist texturing. An investigation of the drag angle for the newly developed cone drum twister texturing mechanism is reported. An analysis is given from which equations can be derived that relate to the conical angle of cone drum, wrapping angle, drag angle, and yam helix angle. Theoretical values of drag angle are calculated and discussed. It is shown that, as the helix angle and the projected wrapping angle increases, the drag angle also increases slowly until the helix angle of $40^{\circ}$ but after the helix angle of $40^{\circ}$ the drag angle increases rapidly. Furthermore the higher the projected wrapping angle and conical angle, the higher the drag angle of friction surface.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.1-8
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• 1999

This study surveys the mechanical properties such as surface properties(MIU, MMD, SMD) to the weight reduction rate of PET fabrics. For this purpose, 12 kinds of satin and 18 kinds of plain weave fabrics are prepared with change of the physical properties of weft yarn(T.P.M., density, and denier). The weight reduction rate was 0%, 12%, 25%, and 30%. Coefficient of friction(MIU), mean deviation of friction(MMD), and geometrical roughness(SMD) of the fabrics were measured and discussed with wed twist, yarn linear density, weft fabric density and weave structures.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제2권5호
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• pp.443-449
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• 2000

An investigation of the relative velocity of friction surface for the newly developed cone drum twister texturing mechanism is reported. The cone drum twister is one of the outer surface contacting friction-twisting devices in false-twist texturing. In this cone drum twister, a filament yam passes over the surface of the cone drum that rotates by passing the yarn without a special driving device. This research is theoretically composed of the analysis of the false twisting mechanism. The equations were derived by using the conical angle of the cone drum, projected wrapping angle, and yarn helix angle. Theoretical values of the relative velocity of friction surface were calculated and discussed. It is shown that, as the projected wrapping angle increased, the relative velocity of friction surface decreased. But as the conical angle increased the relative velocity of friction surface also increased.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.233-240
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• 2011

A fineness range of 150 Nm-170 Nm has recently been applied to produce much finer wool products, so that processing techniques for the wool fabrics have been developed very rapidly. However, the worsted wool-like technique using polyester fiber has not been still implemented in general processing technique. Therefore, this research is to develop materials of side-by-side type with high finess, high shrinkage and stretchability. The mechanical properties of the produced fabrics were analyzed and the fundamental information were obtained for the new worsted wool-like products. The physical properties of a latent crimped yarns of side-by-side type with stretch function are analyzed. Also the mechanical properties of five kinds of fabrics are analyzed, which are produced with non-circular shape(+type) warp yarns of a twist of 1000(T/M) and with two kinds of latent weft yarns of a twist of 1000 T/M and DTY respectively.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.5-9
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• 2004

This research surveys the threadline instability on the belt texturing machine according to the 1st heater temperature, draw ratio and velocity ratio. the threadline instability to the time, which is called surging phenomena, is analysed with variations of draw ratio and velocity ratio. In addiction, the surging phenomena is investigated with the variation of the untwisting tension and false twist mechanism on the belt texturing machine. The breaking strain, modulus and yam unevenness of the DTY along the yarn length are measured and analysed with the surging phenomena which is due to untwisting tension variation on the threadline according to the draw ratio, 1st heater temperature and velocity ratio.

• 전자공학회논문지S
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• 제34S권11호
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• pp.80-92
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• 1997

This research focuses onan efficient control method of temperature for multiple points using only one processor. For a yarn production system, the surface temperature control of heaters are very important for quality control. Therefore, we designed a temperature controller for a draw and twist machine and applied Fuzzy-PWM algorithm to the controller. If we use a processor for the temperature control of multiple points with the conventional ON/OFF control, the control performance of the system becomes poor. To overcome these problems, we developed a new Fuzzy-PWM algorithm for the adjustment of power rate to the heaters in the conventional ON/OFF control. It is shown that this algorithm has the same effects as the PID algorithm for the temperature control of each point. The proposed algorithm is robust against the production condition and environment such as the reference temperature and the thickness of yarn, since the power rate to the heater is adjusted by Fuzzy Rules derived from the values of the reference termperatureand the thickness of yarn. To obtain optimal Fuzzy rulees, the control simulations are perfodrmed through the modelling of the heater and simulation of Fuzzy rules. This algorithm is applied for the multiple pont temperature controller and showed satisfactory performance.

• Composites Research
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.30-37
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• 2002

꼰 섬유(twisted yarn)로 이루어진 복합재료의 탄성계수를 예측하기 위한 강성모델을 제시하였다. 이 모델은 단위 셀 구조를 바탕으로 하여 좌표변환과 구성 재료의 연성 상수를 체적 평균함으로써 복합재료의 탄성계수를 예측하는 방법이다. 해석적인 결과와 실험치와의 비교를 위하여 두 종류의 꼬임 각을 가지는 섬유로 구성된 복합재료에 대한 시험을 하였으며 인장, 압축, 전단 강도와 탄성계수를 구하였다. 이 시험편은 유리섬유 및 에폭시 수지를 사용한 RTM 성형법으로 제조하였다. 탄성계수에 대한 비교 곁과 예측치와 실험치는 비교적 잘 일치하였다. 이 모델에 의해 구해진 3차원적인 탄성계수 값은, 꼬인 섬유로 이루어진 직조형 복합재료 구조물의 구조해석을 위한 기본 물성치 입력값으로 사용될 수 있다.