• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.77-90
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• 2015

This study is to designed to provide foundation for knit design which can apply the thickness and flexibility of jacquard knit by analyzing and comparing mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard (normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, floating jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, transfer jacquard) widely used in knit design to achieve the results. The sample was projected by using 7 gauge and SES-122S type computer knitting machine house tooth pattern with two colors were applied to 7 types of jacquard using Acrylic/Wool(30%/70%) $2/50.5^{\prime}s{\times}4ply\;yarn$ by Shimaseiki MFG., Ltd computer knitting machine. The mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). HV(Hand Value) and THV (Total Hand Value) were calculated by using the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-WINTER respectively. The measurements were evaluated by 0-to-5 rating scale. As result, the floating jacquard was found to have excellent drape, making it suitable for express feminine silhouette with its most flexible and smooth touch. On the other hand, bird's eye jacquard is adequate for a suit jacket and coat regarding its excellent volume and flexibility. Blister jacquard and tubular jacquard are thick, heavy and stiff knit and both are suitable for simple box-style design. Ladder's back jacquard, however, is more appropriate for expressing the design of feminine charm and voluminous design. Based on the result of this study, it is supposed to provide basic information for development of knit industry regarding jacquard knit by designing the creative knit wear with high production efficiency.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.117-126
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• 2017

In this study, moisture transport characteristics for the woven and knitted fabrics made of 8 kinds of fiber materials using MMT (moisture management tester) were measured and discussed with the Bireck bt MMT and water evaporating rate (WER) measuring methods, which are vertical moisture transport methods. In addition, the drying property by MMT of the eight kinds of specimens was compared and discussed with the results measured by the vertical drying measurement. MMT experimental result which is horizental moisture transport appeared to be similar to the result of the Bireck method, which is the vertical moisture transport experiment. Absortion time measured from drip method of the fabrics made of the bamboo, linen, and cotton/nylon composite fabrics was short and thus they showed best wicking property, which was attributed to the low contact angle on the fabric surface and high porosity of the fabrics due to the staple yarn structure composed of the hydrophilic staple fibers. In drying property of the fabric specimens by MMT, maximum absorption radius of the dry-zone knit and bamboo woven fabrics were the highest and they showed the best drying property, which was a little different result compared with vertical drying measurement method. Half time of the drying rate in the MMT method was highly correlated with the fabric thickness and saturated moisture absortion rate and their regression coefficients were 0.9 and 0.88, respectively. This means that the knitted and woven fabric design technology for retaining good wicking and drying properties of the fabrics with thin fabric thickness is very important for obtaining high functional wear comfort fabrics. In addition, wicking and drying properties of the fabrics made of different fiber materials and with different yarns and fabric structures showed different results according to the measuring methods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.12 s.159
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• pp.1683-1689
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• 2006

Precedent researches on lyocell are mostly on lyocell structure, characteristics, physical properties by finishing and dyeability, and the like; there are little cases of researches on interlining for lyocell clothes production. To serve as a base information helpful to select fusible interlining and improve the efficiency of sewing process considering the characteristics of lyocell, this study performed t-est, F-test toward to the difference in the appearance-related properties and the mechanical properties of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric in accordance with the characteristics of fusible interlining and lyocell face fabric. This study reached following conclusions. Drapability and Crease recovery of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric are influenced by the structure of fusible interlining; stiffness of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric, by the structure of fusible interlining and the yam number of lyocell face fabric. WT is influenced by the mixture rate and yam number of lyocell face fabric. RT is influenced by the yam number of lyocell face fabric; G, 2HG, 2HG5, by the structure(woven and non-woven) of fusible interlining; B, HB, by the weight, structure(woven and non-woven) of fusible interlining, and yam number of lyocell face fabric; WC, by the weight, structure of fusible interlining; RC, by the structure of fusible interlining; thickness, by the weight of fusible interlining and the yarn number of lyocell face fabric; weight, by mixture rate and yam number of lyocell face fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.65-77
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• 1982

The intent of this study was to focus attention on the relationship between curtain fabrics and consumer perceptions towards curtains and draperies. This study consisted of the laboratory test for thermal transmittance of selected fabrics and the exploratory survey for consumer perceptions towards curtains and draperies. The objectives of the laboratory test were to measure fabric's thermal transmittance, thickness, and count which affect to the effect in heat controlling. Selected 23 fabrics were tested at Korean Yarn and Fabrics Testing Inspection Institute. The objectives of the exploratory survey were to determine sociodemographic factors; the stage of family life cycle, the economics status, and homemaker's level of education, and physical factors; the type of houses, the direction of windows, and the type of windows, affect consumer perceptions toward curtains and draperies. Questionaires were administered to 489 homemakers selected by a stratified propotional sampling plan, in Seoul in October, 1981. Data from responses were analyzed by T-test(Analysis of Varience) and Partial Correlation. The major findings are as follows; 1. The results of the laboratory test 1) The fabrics used for draperies had higher effect in heat controlling than the fabrics used for glass curtains. 2) It did not show much differences among the fibers in heat controlling. The thicker fibers, however, had the higher effect in heat controlling among same fibers. 3) The fabrics which had high level of effect I heat controlling were corduroy, flax, rayon, nylon, acetate, thick polyester, and thick polyacrylic. The fabrics which had midium level of affect in heat controlling were velveteen, velvet, and thin polyester. The fabrics which had low level of effect in heat controlling were cotton, silk, and thin polyarcylic. 4) The draperies with lining showed 2∼5 times more effective in heat controlling than the draperies without lining. 2. The results of the exploratory survey Consumer perceptions towards curtains and draperies consisted of functional, financial, and aesthetic perception. 1) Factor affecting functional perception towards curtains and draperies was the stage of family life cycle. Families in the contracting stage considered function of curtains and draperies significantly better than those in others stages. 2) Factors affecting financial perception towards curtains and draperies were the economic status, homemaker's level of education, the direction of windows, and the type of windows. However the correlation between the factors and financial perception was too low to explain the significance of tendency. 3) There was not any factors affecting aesthetic perception towards curtains and draperies.