• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.89-98
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• 2009

Computer development and new printing technology allow us to express a new type of digital textile designs those were not possible in the past. In this study, watercolor overlaying effect of various colors was tried using airbrush tool in Photoshop program. Photoshop program is a powerful graphic tool and can be used in textile design area to generate various types of designs. Woven texture was also applied to the design to give yarn dyed effects or rich appearance. Photoshop program was also used to develop woven texture without the help of the professional textile CAD. Photoshop channels enables the designers to apply various textures to the image. Plain weave and houndstooth were applied in this study. Colorways of the developed designs having watercolor effect and woven texture by applying Photoshop color adjustment function. Quick and simultaneous changes of colors were possible using this method. The developed textile designs were printed by transfer DTP. Successful textile design prints were expressed and showed watercolor overlaying effect and woven texture. The printed textiles show a little brighter color, and therefore, sample printing is recommendable in case of color sensitive production.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.702-706
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• 2004

Sensorial tests were executed to find the sensibility and texture of the fabrics. The physiological responses employed in this study was electroencephalogram(EEG). The purpose of this study is to find out how the sample groups responded to the texture of the woven silks and the woven ramie. The sample groups are of 10 males and females, age of 25. EEG was recorded a fast and slow alpha wave according to the texture of the textiles. The sample fabrics are of woven silk and woven ramie. The results obtained as be lows. When the sample groups touched the woven silk, they responded and showed more slow alpha wave than the woven ramie. The slow alpha wave raised when the sample groups felt comfort and relax. The fast alpha wave were more in the woven ramie, it raised when the people felt the tension and the anxiety. There was no significant difference between the male and the female. Woven silk has the soft and smoothness it causes comfort. The sensation of tactile was recorded through the EEG.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권5호
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• pp.699-710
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• 2006

The objective of this study was to identify the texture-related components of woven fabrics and to develop a multidimensional perceptual structure map to represent the tactile textures. Eighty subjects in clothing and tektite industries were selected for multivariate data on each fabric of 30 using the questionnaire with 9 pointed semantic differential scales of 20 texture-related adjectives. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, hierarchical cluster analysis, and multidimensional scaling(MDS) using SPSS statistical package. The results showed that the five factors were selected and composed of density/warmth-coolness, stiffness, extensibility, drapeability, and surface/slipperiness. As a result of hierarchical cluster analysis, 30 fabrics were grouped by four clusters; each cluster was named with density/warmth-coolness, surface/slipperiness, stiffness, and extensibility, respectively. By MDS, three dimensions of tactile texture were obtained and a 3-dimensional perceptual structure map was suggested. The three dimensions were named as surface/slipperiness, extensibility, and stiffness. We proposed a positioning perceptual map of fabrics related to texture naming system(TNS). To classify the textural features of the woven fabrics, hierarchical cluster analysis containing all the data variations, even though it includes the errors, may be more desirable than texture-related multidimensional data analysis based on factor loading values in respect of the effective variables reduction without losing the critical variations.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.128-137
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• 2000

A range of suede-like samples were collected including woven fabric type, nonwoven fabric type, and natural suede(sheep). The surface textures of these suede-like fabrics are rather diverse and different from the plain filament type fabrics since there are a lot of fine surface free fiber ends. Physical and mechanical measurements were carried using the KES equipments. Based on the Kawabata-Niwa translational equation, primary hand values and THV were calculated. Uniaxial tensile tests were performed. Using glossmeter, the reflectance pattern was analyzed at different incidence and receiving angles. In order to capture the surface images of the specimens, a CCD camera and frame grabber connected to a PC were employed. The reflectance uniformity of the images was measured with line-profile analysis and standard deviation values of the profile of the images were calculated. After the multiscale wavelet transfermation, correlation among the transformed image was analyzed at each scale. The reflectance uniformity of the natural suede was better than that of nonwoven type suede, while that of woven type suede was the last among the selected three samples(natural suede, nonwoven type, woven type). The correlation analysis among images has shown the possibility of using the wavelet transformation of the images as one of the measures to detect similarities among the textured specimens.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.15-27
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to find texture which suitable for the acryl knitted jacket of women in the middle age. The study was carried out 2 parts. The first part was to choose the pattern fitted in the body shape of women in the middle age, and the second part was wearing test with 3 different textured acryl knitted jacket(half milano, milano, jacquard). The usable data of the test were coded for further statistical analysis including descriptive statistics (frequency and one way-ANOVA test, Student-Newman-Keuls Multiple Range Test) by using SPSSWIN 12.0. The results were as follows: It was found that first evaluation for the appearance test on fitness, pattern B(Brand: Morado) were better than the rest of them(pattern A: Trieste, pattern C: Escalier). It was found that second evaluation for the test, jacket with jacquard were better than the rest of them. Acryl knitted Jacket of women in the middle age should made of jacquard. Therefore it should be designed as possible as considering the physical characteristics of knitted materials. It was found that third evaluation for the test, it was opposite results that a general knitted fabric pattern was made smaller than a woven jacket. So, it was necessary that the acryl knitted jacket of women in the middle age follow a similar site tolerance such as a woven jacket. This result was due to a radical change of a middle age women's body shape.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제45권4호
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• pp.43-51
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• 2007

This study analyzed the knit wear trend, which has gained attention as a sensuous and luxury item, through collection magazines, and used the technique of hand-knit to produce and present the knit wear that was designed based on the study results. Accordingly, the purpose of this study is to raise awareness of the expansion of hand knit's new expression techniques and expression areas and to verify its possibility as a higher value-added product. The trends of hand-knit wear resulted from the analysis of collections divided into the following four groups, and the knit designs were also grouped accordingly: First was "The design using object." The trend survey showed the results that the form of drops or flowers was often used as a factor of object. Accordingly, as for the study design, the drop-knitting technique, which is one of the pattern knitting techniques, was used to present a design that employed drops as the object. Second was "The design matched with woven material." It is a way to emphasize aesthetic formativeness and at the same time to activate the area of knit design by matching woven material, which is different from knit in texture, with knit. This study presented a design that tried to combine knit texture and woven material by connecting denim material with various textures and colors. Third was "The design to express see-through." A sense of showing through knit wear was expressed through changes in the type of thread or knitting technique. In this study, the sense of see-through was expressed using piano wires and wool threads and through changes in the thickness of needle. Fourth was "The design to emphasize coloring." It was analyzed that regarding the production of hand knit, the method of coloring expression was to express points, lines and sides or to create harmony by changing the material's color or texture to show particular objects or shapes. In this study, a jacket was designed using the method to express points, lines and sides by changing the material's color.

• 복식
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• 제50권8호
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• pp.5-16
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• 2000

This study attempts to examine compound weave among silk fabrics of Cho-Sun Dynasty. These silk fabrics have colorful patterns. They can be classified into two types by their texture structure one is called polychrome woven silk of which structure is plain or twill fabric : another is called satan damask of which structure is stain fabric. Their texture structure consist of warp and weft. In addition. there are other types of warp and weft for pattern structure ; various twill structures were used for patterns. A variety of colorful threads, including gold and silver ones. are used fur patterns in them. The brocaded-type fabric was primarily developed during Won Era of China. It was most developed in Ko-Rye Kingdom. During that era flat strip was used the most but its length was usually not long enough to finish one pattern. However, wrapped thread was increasingly used during the middle and later period of Cho-Sun Dynasty due to the development of weaving technology for gold thread. The brocaded-type fabric was produced in Korea and it was also Imported from China according to some record. There are some domestic empirical documents that show the names of imported Satin Samite, Brocaded satin and these are good evidence to prove the nationwide use of the cloth during Cho-Sun Dynasty. The density ratio of warp and weft is almost same except Samite in the third and Satin with flower motif in the second period is most density among them. C·F of Brocaded satin with Mang motif in the third period values the highest price. Brocaded satin, used with both gold and silver threads, is thickest.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제23권
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• pp.39-51
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• 2008

죽지는 최근 몇 십 년 간의 양지(洋紙)의 보급과 더불어 중국의 죽지 산지(産地)에는 생산성 만을 추구해 약품 사용이 극히 보편적인 현상이 되었다. 이러한 영향 때문에 지류 문화재의 보수지(補修紙) 문제가 심각한 문제로 제기되고 있다. 죽지를 염색하거나 색료를 도포하는 과정에 있어 생성되는 심한 얼룩이나 반점은 지류 문화재의 재현 연구에 큰 장애가 되고 있음은 주지의 사실이기도 하다. 이 번 죽지 제작에 있어서 종이의 질감이나 색을 크게 좌우하는 것으로는 석회발효 일광표백이었으나 잔류물 유 무도 많은 영향을 끼치고 있는 것으로 판명 되었다. 이것은 원료를 채집해 발효시킨 후 씻기의 공정에서 세심한 배려가 없으면 최종적으로 지면(紙面)의 느낌에 크게 영향을 미치는 것으로 확인되었다. 여기서 잔류물의 예로 들 수 있는 것은 석회이다. 석회는 다른 불순물과 다르게 미량이라도 잔류하게 되면 종이 염색에 잔류물에 의한 반점이나 얼룩을 만드는 원인이 되며 그 기능을 잃게 된다. 백죽지의 재현은 회화, 전적, 문서 등의 재현연구에 사용되는 용지나, 별종의 지직화(紙織畵) 재현에 유효할 것으로 생각된다. 그러나 중국원료의 초기 단계 처리에 대해 개선의 여지가 있으며 앞으로 좀 더 깊이 있는 연구가 필요하다고 할 수 있다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권6호
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• pp.715-724
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• 2003

The Korean clothing culture has shown rapid changes along with influences of western cultures, with social changes due to the liberation from Japan, the Korean War, and the economic growth concentrated on export since the westernization of Korea had begun. Also clothing materials, as a phase of such culture, have been changed. Among silk fabrics, "Dan (단: damask of satin texture with Korean traditional patterns are inwoven)", which has been concerned one of the most beautiful and precious fabrics due to its complexity and difficulty of processing. Since the beginning of the Era of Enlightenment(Kae-hwa-gi), Dan fabric materials and weaving methods have changed. It seems that the figured texture using the Jacquard loom began in 1936. when the Jacquard machine began to be imported from Japan into Korea. From that time on, new fabric materials, such as yangdan (양단), and popdan (법단), hobakdan (호박단), silk and rayon mixed Dan(교직양단) began to be produced. Before 1950's there were some restrictions about the Number of wefts, so the production of the one colored dan(단색단) was more common than that of the multi colored dan(다색단). But with the spread of 4$\times$4 shuttle box loom (양사정직기), various kinds of the multi colored dan have been produced after 1960's. Around the end of 1980's, automatic shuttle change loom have been generalized and 7 color dan(칠색단), 9 color gumsadan (구색금사단) have been current in multi colored dan. In terms of materials, synthetic and chemical textiles had been used widely and alter 1980's most fabrics, of which the ground weave is not being woven with satin-weave but being woven with plain or twill-weave, are named Dan in general.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.459-471
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• 1974

This study was carried out on the thermal transmission on account of variation of weaves and researched on the selection of the most suitable weaves for warmth. Also the interrelation among the density, thickness and thermal transmission by different weaves was studied, the author has woven three fundamental weaves, five weaves derived from the fundamental weaves and two special weaves for the purpose of experiment. In weaving of fabrics for experiments the lever type hand loom was used. Testing of texture was carried out according to KS and ASTM. The thermal transmission was also tested by as cooling method which were developed by the author. The conclusions of experiments were as follows. 1. Matt weaves, honey comb weaves and satin weaves having long floating yarns have large cover factor and were thicker. these structures of the weaves were good in warmth. 2. Thermal transmission was reciprocated to the cover factor, thickness and value of cover factor multiplied by thickness : It was found that the weaves of woven fabrics for warmth had better use of satin weaves, Matt weaves, Granite weaves and Honey comb weaves. In the time of warmth is not the first purpose, had better use of Rib weaves. Plain weaves and Twill weaves with thin thickness and high thermal transmission.