• Title/Summary/Keyword: woven textiles

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The Evaluation of Water Vapor Transport and Waterproofness Properties of the Waterproof and Breathable Fabrics (국내 시판 의류용 투습방수소재의 투습방수 성능평가)

  • Shim, Huen Sup
    • The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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    • v.27 no.2
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    • pp.295-304
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    • 2016
  • This study was conducted to evaluate and compare the waterproofness and water vapor transport properties of 30 waterproof and breathable textiles in the market. MVTR upright cup test with water, MVTR inverted cup test with potassium acetate, and sweating hot plate test method were used for measuring the breathability of fabric samples. The waterproofness of all fabric samples and evaporative resistance of garment ensembles made with 5 selected waterproof and breathable textiles out of 30 samples were tested. The results of this study were as follows. The base fabrics of the most samples were basic weave structure with either polyester or nylon fiber. The waterproofness was over $5000mmH_2O$ for all the samples except densely woven fabrics. The evaporative resistance of garments that were made out of 5 fabric samples with a range of low to high breathability ranged $39.9{\sim}56.7m^2{\cdot}P{\cdot}W^{-1}$. The data of the water vapor transport properties of fabric samples varied with different test methods. Overall the bicomponent film fabrics showed better breathability and less standard deviation regardless of test methods. It is expected the breathability data without the information of test conditions used for marketing would confuse the consumers and the apparel manufacturers.

Sound Characteristics according to Cross-sectional Shapes of Fibers

  • Kim, Chunjeong;Cho, Gilsoo;Hong, Kyoung A.;Shim, Hyun Joo
    • Fibers and Polymers
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    • v.4 no.4
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    • pp.199-203
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    • 2003
  • In order to investigate the effects of cross-sectional shapes on the sound characteristics of polyester fibers, 10 specimens were woven into a twill structure made of round, hollow, triangular, u-shape, cruciform, and composite cross-sectional (▲/▲ ,()/▲, Y/Y) fibers. Their rustling sounds were recorded, and their sound spectra were obtained from FFT analysis. Physical sound parameters (LPT, ΔL, Δf) and Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters of the loudness(Z), sharpness(Z), roughness(Z), and fluctuation strength(Z) were calculated from the sound spectra. According to noncircular cross-section fibers, the hollow shaped fiber had the highest value of LPT, ΔL, loudness(Z), and fluctuation strength(Z). The triangular shaped fiber had a lower value of LPT, ΔL, loudness(Z), and roughness(Z) than those of the round shaped fiber. Among composite cross-section fibers, C1(▲/▲) and C3 (Y/Y) had higher values of LPT, ΔL, Δf and loudness(Z) but C2(()/▲) had lower values. Also the LPT, ΔL, sharpness(Z), and roughness(Z) values of different denier were similar to each other, but the Δf and loudness(Z) values increased as the denier increased.

A Study on the Design of Women's Knitwears - Focusing on Stitch and the Handcraft Ornament Technique - (여성(女性) 니트웨어 디자인에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) - 조직(組織)과 수공예적(手工藝的) 장식기법(裝飾技法)을 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Kim, Hae-Young;Cho, Kyu-Hwa
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.5 no.1
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    • pp.131-144
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    • 2001
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the type of stitch and designs of knitwears using handcraft ornament techniques. This paper will also go on to develop and merchandize high value generated by design development. Knit is largely divided into weft knit stitch and warp knit stitch which are respectively woven by weft knitting machine and warp knitting machine. For clothing, circular knit and flat knit are frequently used while plain stitch, rib stitch and purl stitch are perceived as the basic stitches. Denbigh stitch, cord stitch, atlas stitch, which belong to tricot stitch, are the basic of warp knit stitch. There are also numerous fancy fabrics adapting the previously mentioned stitches and these are made into solid pattern and yarn dyed pattern. The handcraft ornament techniques in knitwears design are embroidery, beads, sequin, stone, printing, applique and fringe, etc. By applying these techniques thus creative expression, which cannot be expressed in other fashion items, is feasible. The women's knitwears are tries by mixed and various techniques, develope to high value knitwears, escaping from simple and practical items.

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A Study on the Adhesive Condition of the Nonwoven Fabrics in Sewing of the Leather (피혁봉재에 있어서 부직포 접착심지의 접착방법에 관한 연구)

  • Kim Young Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.5 no.2
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    • pp.35-40
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    • 1981
  • This study aims at finding appropriate adhesive conditions with special regard the material of 'fusible padding cloth inter ling' was frequently used for leather. As for leather material, pig suede, sheep suede were selected and drum dyed, cow split, napa have also been used. Mixed spinning non-woven fabric (polyester $50\%$, nylon $50\%$) were used as for padding cloth. Experimental appearance has been observed under the following adhesive conditions: Temperature of press were devided four levers; $120^{\circ}C$, $130^{\circ}C$, $140^{\circ}C$, $150^{\circ}C$, respectively. Adhesive time has been limited 5, 10, 15 second each. And the pressure has been conditioned as $0.2kg/cm^2$ continuously. After all this experiment, it was discovered that the material which had long contact with low temperature conditions has similar adhesive power to material that has short contact with high temperature conditions. There is a great difference according to the leather's dying process, the finishing method of the cloth, and the part of leather surface. The best condition for suede are $140^{\circ}C$, $150^{\circ}C$, at 10 seconds. and for D/D, NAPA, $130^{\circ}C$, at 10 seconds. Although the conditions of $150^{\circ}C$, at 15 seconds was possible for split, the process time can be shortened according to the increase of temperature.

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Performance of Poly(trimethylene terephthalate) Fabric for Swimsuit (폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트를 사용한 수영복 소재의 성능)

  • 정승은;박정희;최정화
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.28 no.6
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    • pp.819-829
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    • 2004
  • This study was carried out to suggest a new swimsuit fabric with improved durability, comfort and appearance, by employing PTT(polytrimethylene terephthalate). Objective and subjective performances of newly woven PTT/PU (polyurethane) blend fabric were estimated and compared with nylon/PU(80/20) which is currently used for swimsuit. According to the questionnaire, the most serious problems of swimsuit fabrics were such that they were easily degraded by chlorinated water and this made fabric inelastic and transparent. After exposure to the chlorinated water, PTT blend fabrics showed higher retention of breaking strength, bursting strength, elastic recovery and crystallinity. suggesting that PTT/PU(87/13) was the most excellent material in durability. PTT blend fabrics absorbed less water and dried faster than nylon/PU and thus PTT/PU(87/13) was shown to be the best in respect of comfort. All of the specimens used in this study exhibited satisfactory colorfastness to sea water, chlorinated water and light except that nylon/PU(80/20) represented weak colorfastness to chlorinated water. From the subjective wearing sensation test, PTT/PU(82/18) was shown to posess the best wearing sensation. From the overall evaluation or objective and subjective properties, PTT blend fabrics exhibited superior performances to nylon/PU(80/20), suggesting that they can be successfully used as a new durable and comfortable swimsuit fabric.

Mechanical Properties and Garment Formability of PET/Spandex Stretch Fabrics (PET/스판덱스 스트레치 직물의 역학특성과 의류형성성능)

  • Kim, Hyunah
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.41 no.6
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    • pp.1098-1108
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    • 2017
  • This paper investigated stretchability with fabric mechanical properties of one-way and two-way stretch fabrics. For this purpose, 1-way and 2-way woven fabrics were prepared using 150d PET/spandex covered yarns with different thermal treatment according to 4 kinds of wet thermal machines subsequently, fabric mechanical properties were measured and compared with regular PET fabrics. In addition, the garment formability of stretch fabrics was predicted and compared to regular fabrics according to wet thermal treatment. The weft stretchability of 2-way stretch fabric was about 10% higher than the 1-way stretch fabric. The compressibility of the stretch fabrics was 1.5 times higher than regular fabrics. The compressibility of stretch fabrics treated with CPB and rope type wet thermal machine showed higher values than other types of wet thermal machines. The bending rigidity of 2-way stretch fabric was lower than 1-way stretch fabric. Shear rigidity of 2-way stretch fabric was higher than 1-way and regular fabrics. Garment formability of 2-way stretch fabric was higher than regular and one-way stretch fabrics. Garment formability of 2-way stretch fabrics treated with wet thermal conditions under low tension showed the highest values.

A Study on Modifiable Design in Knit Fashion (가변적 니트 패션디자인 연구)

  • Yoon, Jeong-A;Lee, Youn-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.10
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    • pp.88-99
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    • 2010
  • The purpose of this study is to express visual and functional diversity through modifiable design, and to suggest a methodological model. With this view, this study was aimed to departmentalize the case of knitwear in modifiable design of clothes and propose the possibility of variable knit fashion through make the most of knit's characteristics. Four wearable physical clothes using the most of flexible knits' characteristics were made for this study based on the modifiable design on the expressive tendency and analysis of plasticity. The following results were obtained. First, as modifiable knit design can create effects of several dresses in visual aspect and functional aspect, so it has practicality and functionality. Because modifiable clothes required wearer's participation, this have amusement that give enjoyment and freshness to wearer. Second, in mode of wearing, flexibility of knit is suitable character to open & close and change of wearing position. In manipulation, a prearranged plan for line of clothes and good choice of subsidiary materials are important. Third, the characteristics of knits allow using and mixing with different pattern and materials on the two sides of the same cloths except for the some of the parts. Moreover, there is no unraveled thread on the part of knits margin against woven, so it has the broad applicable range for the changeable design. Finally, the form and function, a prearranged plan for modifiable design of clothes have all contributed in creating new structure and patterns in design.

Development and Evaluation of Smart Pants with Vibrating Devices (진동장치를 이용한 기능성 스마트 팬츠 개발 및 평가)

  • Choi, Sun-Yoon;Lee, Jeong-Ran
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.11 no.1
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    • pp.121-129
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    • 2009
  • Nowadays, global interest is being placed on research and development of smart clothing which is expected to create a high added-value industry in the future. The purpose of this research is to develop smart pants with vibrating massage functions that have excellent outer appearances and provide comfort to wearers and assess outer appearance, comfort, and massaging effects of smart pants. As the results of this research, smart pants where vibrating devices which are mainly composed of vibrating motor, controller, and switch are attached were completed. Vibrating motors were fixed on a thin and light non-woven fabric material, covered with a mesh material, and attached by snaps to the experiment pants. Switch was attached to the inside of a pocket, and batteries were positioned inside of pockets. Ten subjects marked their satisfaction of wearing smart pants on a 5-point scale. Noticeable changes in outer appearance when vibrating motors operate turned out to be low. Wearer's comfort in back waist and front thigh parts where vibrating motors were attached turned out to be high-satisfied. Massaging effects of smart pants turned out to be high. Attaching and detaching vibrating devices turned out to be convenient. Lining materials used for smart paints were effective in blocking electromagnetic waves generated from vibrating devices.

Textile Structural Design with Fabric Flexibility using SLS 3D Printing Technology (SLS 3D 프린팅 기술을 적용한 직물 유연성이 발현된 직물구조적인 설계디자인)

  • Song, HaYoung
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.24 no.3
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    • pp.85-100
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    • 2020
  • Recently, 3D printing technology, which is suitable for small-volume production of many varieties, has become considered a key manufacturing technology in the 4th industrial revolution. However, the nature of 3D printing technology means it is not yet able to be applied to traditional textiles due to Fabric Flexibility. The aim of this study is to investigate Textile Structural Design by finding the optimal yarn thickness for Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) 3D printed structures on geogrid dobby woven fabric that gives the optimal flexibility and tensile strength in the final product. The test results for tensile load strength of the 3D printed test samples, using 1.0mm, 0.8mm, 0.6mm and 0.4mm yarn thicknesses, showed that all were found to be above 250N, this higher than the tensile strength of 180N that is recommended for textile products. Based on these results, the four dobby structural patterns with 3D printing produced had four yarn thicknesses: 1.0mm, 0.8mm, 0.6mm, and 0.4mm. The thinner the yarn, the more flexible the fabric; as such the optimal conditions to produce SLS-based 3D printed textiles with suitable strength and flexibility used a thickness of yarn in the range of 0.4mm to 0.6mm.

A Study on the Garment's Ease of Slacks Made of Different Materials (재료에 따른 Slacks의 착용감에 관한 연구)

  • Lee Jung Sook;Ham Ok Sang
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.6 no.2
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    • pp.9-15
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    • 1982
  • This study was conducted to examine the relation between the clothing materials and the garment's ease under wearing condition. Wearing test of slacks in the same pattern which were made of 3 woven fabrics and 1 knitted fabric have teen carried out. Subjects were 5 female students. Some physical properties of these fabrics were investigated. The following results were obtained. 1, By analysis variance with the results of sensory test which was tested by paired com-parison method, it was obtained that the effect of materials on the garment's ease were significant at the $1\%$ level on every part of stacks and posture of subject. It indicates that there is a difference of materials from materials in garment's ease. 2. Significant at the $5\%$ level among the materials. Jersey and Jean were looser than the other two materials. Clothing materials have considerable effect on the garment's ease of slacks, therefore it was noticed that the ease of slacks must have considered the clothing materials. It is more necessary in working dress. 3. Elastic recovery of width was more contributive to garment's ease of slacks than any other physical properties.

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